Jasminum grandiflorum is the most widely used jasmine in perfumery. Its scent is opulent and rich, with a sweet fruity note reminiscent of apricots and bananas. Underpinned by indoles, molecules that smell of ink and moth balls, the aroma is inexpectedly sensual.
Jasminum sambac is a nightblooming jasmine. It is heavier on indoles than Jasminim G., and its scent is darker, greener and more animalic. The flowers of this jasmine are used to flavor Chinese tea.
Unlike rose, jasmine is too delicate to withstand steam distillation, therefore, the process to extract the oil traditionally followed a complicated enfleurage method, which required flowers to be hand picked and layered over a glass frame coated with a mixture of animal fats. After the fats would become enriched with the jasmine oils, the flowers are removed and the essential oils is separated from the fat through a process not unlike a solvent extraction, using ethyl alcohol. Today, jasmine absolute is extracted exclusively via solvents. The perfumer’s palette also includes numerous synthetic jasmine substitutes. While they cannot rival natural jasmine’s beauty and complexity, they are widely used. Not only are the jasmine synthetics more affordable, they also allow for effects prized in today’s perfumery: radiance, freshness and lack of strong animalic notes. One example of a light and luminous jasmine material is hedione.
Jasmine soliflores: Serge Lutens A La Nuit, The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin, Norma Kamali Jazmin, Molinard Jasmin, Chantecaille Le Jasmin, Montale Jasmin Full, Miller Harris Jasmine Vert.