Caron Or et Noir : Perfume Review

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Caron Or et Noir, “Gold and Black” was created by Michel Morsetti in 1949 in homage to Ernest Daltroff and the tradition of Parfums Caron. Ernest Daltroff was fascinated with roses and incorporated rose absolutes in nearly all compositions he has created for Caron.

Caron_1949

A fragrance that served as an inspiration for Parfum Sacré, Or et Noir is a dark rose on a rich base of spices and woods. The opening notes are of honeyed red rose blended with the astringent bite of geranium and bergamot. The sandalwood and black pepper provide a wonderful foil for the rich rose accord. Unlike most rose fragrances that start out bright and crisp and then proceed to warm up on the skin, Or et Noir reveals its sensual facets instantaneously. The darkness of Caron accord is like a breath of cool air that renders the sweet and spicy composition light and airy. I always think of Or et Noir as a rose before sundown, petals closing slowly to hide the unabashedly sultry opening.

One of the Urn Parfums, Or et Noir is available at the Caron boutiques as extrait de parfum. Its notes include Bulgarian rose, centifolia rose and geranium; Anatolian rose, lilac and carnation, oakmoss and woody amber.

On Reformulation 3/31/2011:

The femme fatale roses of Or et Noir are still dark and smoldering, with a wonderful mossy-patchouli undertone. The main difference is that I smell less natural rose and more rose alcohols, which lend Or et Noir an unexpected lemony and zesty quality. Still, it is a good dark rose for those who like this fragrance genre.

Picture: 1949 advertisement for Caron.

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5 Comments

  • mreenymo: Did you say that Caron was created for ladies and Guerlain for courtesans? If that be the case, then I must have been the latter in a former life! :):)

    For some reason, my body chemistry does not “take” to the Carons like it does the Guerlains. I love the notes in the ‘mousse de saxe’ accord, but so far, I have not found a Caron that agrees with me.

    That said, I would love to visit a Caron Boutique to test those classic fragrances like En Avion, French Cancan (love the name), and Alpona. I’m keeping an open, hopeful mind, V!

    Hugs! June 2, 2005 at 11:43am Reply

  • Woodcock: That black marble quality you pinpoint is very astute. It’s a rather inpenetrable fragrance, and I only feel appropriate wearing it to the opera or the ballet between Labor Day and Memorial day. When I dab it on, I feel like I’m wearing invisible Art deco jewelry. Caron will never make an “Or et Noir Sport,” I hope. June 2, 2005 at 2:46pm Reply

  • N aka parislondres: Or et Noir is a must try for rose lovers. Being an official rose convert – I re-tested this and do like it a lot. However at present Nahema parfum will do for now. Those are two very sensual rose perfumes.

    xoxo June 2, 2005 at 12:46pm Reply

  • victoria: Does anone have a full list of Caron perfumes? I am looking for one that was made in 1919, but the name of which I cannot recall. December 1, 2005 at 3:56pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Here is the list I compiled:

    http://boisdejasmin.typepad.com/_/2005/06/parfums_caron.html December 1, 2005 at 4:05pm Reply

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