October 2005: 46 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The most autumnal of visions are the pyramids of pomegranates arranged at the markets beginning in September. I would find myself drawn to the stalls filled with red orbs reflecting shimmering light of a chilly golden morning. Each tiny ruby jewel contained within tough leathery skin is an explosion of tart flavor that is reminiscent of grapes crossed with plums. Therefore, the appearance of pomegranate notes in the fall releases is quite appropriate given the autumnal nature of the fruit. The scent of pomegranate is subtle, yet distinct, twisting the green powdery fragrance of its skin around the sweet-tart and winey aroma of the seeds. Two recent releases focus on the pomegranate notes, with Jo Malone offering a dry minimalist variant and Calvin Klein providing a more exotic and creamier arrangement. ….

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“When men and women started having bespoke fragrances created at the end of the 17th century, there was no distinction between which notes were used for the different sexes,” says Francis Kurkdjian in an article on “mixed” fragrances in Sunday Times.  The short piece mentions some fragrances, including recently released Jean Paul Gaultier 2, created by Kurkdjian.

Although I seem to wear everything in the course of my fragrance explorations, in many cases not noticing the distinctions, if I were to name some of my favourites among the fragrances that qualify as “mixed”, they would be Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien, Serge Lutens La Myrrhe, Frédéric Malle Angéliques Sous la Pluie, Hermès Un Jardin en Méditeranée as well as L’Artisan L’Eau del’Ambre. If you have your favourites, I would love to hear.

Koudou (“the way of incense”) is a Japanese incense ceremony that has a long and esteemed history tracing its origins to the Edo period (1603-1867). Involving more than 30 years to truly master the art of Koudou, the ceremony is comprised of several steps that include kneading and burning of incense. Kenzo’s new fragrance is dedicated to the ceremony that emphasizes the sense of smell. Flower Oriental, composed by Alberto Morillas of Firmenich includes notes of kyara, violet, Bulgarian rose, vanilla and Sichuan pepper. Kyara, derived from agarwood, is one of the most prized incense ingredients. Flower Oriental is described as the original floral notes of Flower with the resinous woody notes of agarwood incense.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Abstraction is what modern perfume has been striving for over the course of the 20th century, moving away from the representational genre dominating the previous periods. The first abstract fragrance was Houbigant Fougère Royale (1882), which combined synthetic material coumarin with bergamot, oakmoss and geranium. Elegantly serene abstraction is how Comme des Garçons Odeur 53 can be characterized, a fragrance that is comprised solely of synthetics in its attempt to reproduce such inorganic smells as sand and metal.

Created in 1998 by Martine Pallix, Odeur 53 strikes me as a cubist take on a classical jasmine and wood combination. Abstract is an important qualifier here, since the fragrance does not represent either to the extent that they are obvious. Yet, somehow the composition reveals the essential elements of this pairing—warmth and woody sweetness. Daringly, more than 60% of the formula is comprised of hedione, which is an aromachemical possessing a radiant jasmine quality. …

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Eden Sarl lost its bid for trademark protection of a strawberry scent, which the company hoped to employ in face creams, soaps, leather, clothes, etc. The court denied trademark arguing that strawberries can have up to five different scents. The only scent to win EU trademark protection at this point is the scent of freshly cut grass, which “was registered by a Dutch perfume company that uses it to give tennis balls their aroma,” tells bbc.co.uk. Read the full article here. (thanks to P.)