Lanvin Arpege Pour Homme : Perfume Review

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Arpegehomme

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Arpège Pour Homme is the newest men’s fragrance from Lanvin, created by Olivier Pescheux. A decision to have Arpège as part of the name immediately sets up a challenge from an incomparable feminine version of Arpège, created by André Fraysse and Paul Vacher in 1927 (and successfully reochestrated by Hubert Fraysse in 1993). Yet, Arpège Pour Homme is worthy of its name, pairing crisp elegance with gentle softness.

The transparent hesperidic note sets the stage for the composition, remaining present throughout the development. While initially it soars over the peppery dryness of the top notes, its vivid clarity softens over time. An indolic note of jasmine is an interesting counterpoint to the austere and cold iris. As iris unfolds fully in the heart of the composition, it attains an almost violet-like quality from the vanillic notes, which cascade rapidly into the base. The base notes are layered with delicately sweet and powdery musk, oscillating between clean and sensual.

The gentle warmth that arises after the surge of floral notes is exactly what makes feminine Arpège appealing. Where vetiver provides a cooling touch in the original Arpège, a somewhat sharp hesperidic twist that is woven through the entire composition, gives Arpège Pour Homme an interesting leitmotif. While Arpège Pour Homme would be perfectly suitable for women, I would suspect that it might definitely fall more into a conventionally defined masculine category. Whatever the case may be, the elegance and refinement of Arpège Pour Homme are without a doubt.

Notes include pink peppercorns, mandarin, bitter orange and neroli; iris, jasmine, mate, nutmeg; vanilla, tonka beans, patchouli, Australian sandalwood. Again, I have to point out Serge Mansau’s bottle design. Arpège Pour Homme is available from Escentual, Saks 5th Avenue and other select retailers.

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10 Comments

  • linda: Nice review! I bought it for my husband this week. As you say, it is very crisp and elegant. October 7, 2005 at 10:23am Reply

  • Robin: Wow, V, very tempting review. Another one I must look for! October 7, 2005 at 10:42am Reply

  • Peter: Thanks for this review. I didn’t even know it existed. I wear Lanvin L’Homme, and Arpege pour Homme sounds very interesting. October 7, 2005 at 11:06am Reply

  • linda: What is Lanvin L’Homme like? V, have you reviewed this one already? October 7, 2005 at 12:02pm Reply

  • Marina: Lovely review, V.! How indolic is the jasmine? I am jasmine-phobic as it is and if it is indolic, maybe I should just stay away 🙂 October 7, 2005 at 12:31pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: R, you should definitely seek it out! I have a feeling that you might like it very much. October 7, 2005 at 8:59pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Linda, I hope that your husband liked it. I would definitely love this fragrance on a man. It is elegant, with a wonderful soft note that verges on violet. Very appealing indeed! October 7, 2005 at 9:01pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Peter, you are welcome! I hope that you will have a chance to try it. I tried L’Homme, but it was some time ago, and I, frankly speaking, need to revisit it again. Thank you for reminding about it. October 7, 2005 at 9:02pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Linda, no, I have not reviewed it yet. I have some samples that I need to finally try, and L’Homme is among them. I will report on it soon. October 7, 2005 at 9:03pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: M, jasmine here is very subtle, and even a jasmine-phobic like you would be ok with it. A hint of its indolic note gives a sensual, but subtle edge. It keep the composition from being aloof. October 7, 2005 at 9:05pm Reply

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