Cerruti 1881 Collection : Perfume review

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Cerruti_1881_collection_1

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Unlike flowers wrapped in linen feel of the classic Cerruti 1881 introduced ten years earlier, Cerruti 1881 Collection is about dew covered petals and silk. Created by Yann Vasnier and Rodrigo Flores-Roux, the fragrance has a character of transparent layers, folded one over another, creating a composition that has a sensation of satiny softness.

The initial impression is of fine tulle thrown over a green floral bouquet, where crushed green leaves lend a crisp facet to the cool accord accented by hedione. The dewy quality reminiscent of jasmine and lily of the valley mélange attains a delicate plumy sweetness that becomes even more noticeable over time. The middle notes with their lush iris veiled by transparent cool mist segue into the drydown.

While the development over time is subtle, transparency of the composition is retained throughout. Where accents of green leaves and flower buds were noticeable upon the first inhale, the final result has a green, subtly resinous evergreen touch that deepens the floral notes and provides an interesting counterpoint to the tangy fruit accent. While the composition could have taken turn for sheer and gauzy, the iris note with its almost voluptuous ornamentation deepens the effect. It is elegant without being aloof, sparkling without being evanescent and serene without being nostalgic.

Official notes include mandarin, Corregiolo olive leaf, Sangiovese grapes, iris, cypress from Tuscany and patchouli. The fragrance debuted in France in August of 2005, with the wider release scheduled for the fall/winter season. Available at Sephora.fr.

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11 Comments

  • Robin: Oooh…this sounds perfect for me! October 14, 2005 at 10:13am Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: At first, I thought that it might be too transparent, but once the initial muguet/hedionic stage fades somewhat, the middle accord is what made me want to apply it again and again. Of course, I adore anything with iris, and here it is quite lovely. October 14, 2005 at 10:30am Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Marinochka, it is definitely not anything like marine/aquatic. Do you like muguet type notes–that lucid green transparent floral accord? If so, the initial impression is of that. It deepens over time and what I smell is iris–flower, not the roots, ornamented by sheer fruity notes. October 14, 2005 at 10:52am Reply

  • parislondres: Great review dear V! I need to test this soon. Frankly I cannot remember looking out for it.

    Have a lovely weekend.

    Mwah! October 14, 2005 at 10:56am Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Thank you, N! I would love to hear your thoughts when you try it.

    Have a great weekend! October 14, 2005 at 10:59am Reply

  • linda: Was Cerruti 1881 discontinued? I used to wear it years ago. Will try the new one when it appears on our shores. Thanks for another great review! October 14, 2005 at 11:08am Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: L, no, as far as I know it is still available. I used to wear it at one point as well. The new fragrance is supposed to be released this fall, if it has not been already. October 14, 2005 at 11:28am Reply

  • vyn: great review
    this fragrance, for me, is very much inspired by a really elegant italian lady, having a glass of Chianti on a terrasse Place de la Seigneurerie in Firenze! October 14, 2005 at 12:49pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Thank you! It is such a beautiful inspiration. I cannot envision a better suited association for the elegance of the composition! There is something poised and wistful about it. October 14, 2005 at 1:02pm Reply

  • Marina: When you say “dew”, V… do you think my weirdo chemistry will turn that dewy note into an aquatic one, like it did with Do Son?
    I actually used to wear the original 1881 for quite a while, it wasn’t bad at all, a very lovely airy scent. October 14, 2005 at 10:49am Reply

  • BGfan: A keeper forever. Unassumigly elegant. Everything written above and more. May 24, 2007 at 2:54pm Reply

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