Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
Unlike flowers wrapped in linen feel of the classic Cerruti 1881 introduced ten years earlier, Cerruti 1881 Collection is about dew covered petals and silk. Created by Yann Vasnier and Rodrigo Flores-Roux, the fragrance has a character of transparent layers, folded one over another, creating a composition that has a sensation of satiny softness.
The initial impression is of fine tulle thrown over a green floral bouquet, where crushed green leaves lend a crisp facet to the cool accord accented by hedione. The dewy quality reminiscent of jasmine and lily of the valley mélange attains a delicate plumy sweetness that becomes even more noticeable over time. The middle notes with their lush iris veiled by transparent cool mist segue into the drydown.
While the development over time is subtle, transparency of the composition is retained throughout. Where accents of green leaves and flower buds were noticeable upon the first inhale, the final result has a green, subtly resinous evergreen touch that deepens the floral notes and provides an interesting counterpoint to the tangy fruit accent. While the composition could have taken turn for sheer and gauzy, the iris note with its almost voluptuous ornamentation deepens the effect. It is elegant without being aloof, sparkling without being evanescent and serene without being nostalgic.
Official notes include mandarin, Corregiolo olive leaf, Sangiovese grapes, iris, cypress from Tuscany and patchouli. The fragrance debuted in France in August of 2005, with the wider release scheduled for the fall/winter season. Available at Sephora.fr.