Happy Thanksgiving! In lieu of writing on a specific perfume today, I have decided to compile a list of my favorite fragrances. Needless to say, this is rather a snapshot of my current likes and a result of a painstaking task of trying to pick only ten fragrances. I left out probably ten times as many my most beloved fragrances as I ended up including. Nevertheless, here they are: my top five classical and top five modern favorites. Please share yours and do not feel constrained to make separate lists like I did!
Top Five Classical Favorites
If the mood of a quiet snowy day were captured in a bottle, it would be redolent of Nuit de Noël, a fragrance that represents the beauty of rose and incense intertwined over a dark mossy base.
Among Ernest Beaux’s compositions, Bois des Iles’s perfection stands out. It is a painting of gilded woods touched by the delicate spicy notes.
Christian Dior Diorella
Ripe fruit and green jasmine sustained by the elegant mossy base unfold into an airy and vibrant composition. Roudnitska’s more refined expression of the same theme that inspired Eau Sauvage.
The delicate abstract sweetness paired with the dark, yet dewy jonquil makes this Jacques Guerlain composition among his most daring and innovative. The dark veil of Vol de Nuit was not an immediate love for me, yet it has turned into a long term passionate affair.
I admit that I am breaking my own rules, however Bandit and Fracas are bound together in my mind, being the bold, unique creations of the first renowned female perfumer Germaine Cellier. Bandit is a darkness of leather juxtaposed with the scintillating green accord, while Fracas is a sensuality of tuberose underpinned by the dusky base of sandalwood.
Top Five Modern Favorites
The stunning interpretation of ambergris, Eau des Merveilles presents its winey richness underscored by an alluring salty undercurrent. A vision of beach at dusk that does not resort to the marine notes in order to achieve the effect.
Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka
Simultaneously rich and airy, Jean-Claude Ellena’s take on vetiver results in the gourmand abstraction of sugared hazelnuts folded into the earthy vetiver composition.
The abstract dessert of caramelized blackberries dusted with sweet spices and layered with rose petals rests on the luminous woody base. An elegant and complex interpretation of the woods theme results in a very sensual and unusual composition.
Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist
Maurice Roucel’s luminous iris that evokes walking in the early spring garden when the earth is still frozen, the tree branches are bare, yet the signs of nature coming into bloom are present.
Serene and wistful impression of the rose petals floating on water. Marking a new phase in the perfumer Sophia Grojsman’s artistic vision, the composition captivates me with its ethereal quality.
Bonus: Idole de Lubin
The newest composition by Olivia Giacobetti demonstrates her characteristic their marvelous precision combined with dream-like expression. Rum, saffron, bitter orange, black cumin, doum palm, smoked ebony, sugar cane, leather and red sandalwood are intertwined in a beautiful dark composition. Please see my review tomorrow.
Advertisement: Caron Infini, 1975, which is one of my favorite perfume advertisements. From okadi.com.