Rose Angel by Thierry Mugler

Rose_angel

The new fragrance from the Angel family will be Rose Angel, created by Olivier Cresp, the nose behind the original Angel. It seems that with Rose Angel, the line will end, because Cresp was noted to say, “It’s a saga, with the best one for the end to finish the story.” The Angel’s formula will remain the same, however it will add a strong combination of Bulgarian rose oil with patchouli originally used. in Angel. WWD reports that Rose Angel “has a fruitiness like a plum, the harmony of patchouli and rose and traces of pink pepper.”

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16 Comments

  • Tania: Even though I wasn’t thrilled about the previous floral Angels, for some reason (even more surprising because I am not in general wild about rose) I have hopes for this one. February 18, 2006 at 12:50am Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Somehow, it sounds like the most interesting one of the series. I am trying to imagine Bulgarian rose in the heart of Angel, and it seems like a fine match. February 18, 2006 at 1:05am Reply

  • Marlen: Hmmm, I’m very interested….Kinda like a match of Angel and Voleur de Roses? Though the others were basically Angel with a hint of floral attitude, I am curious about this one…Angel and Rose together, huh? Though it sounds like a couple of prostitues, I’m eager to get a sniff. LOL February 18, 2006 at 6:37am Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Marlen, I am laughing here over your last comment. Certainly, it does! Rose and patchouli is a great combination as evidenced by a number of chypres that work a heavier rose accent than would have been traditional. I love the result, and I cannot wait to smell Rose Angel. February 18, 2006 at 3:48pm Reply

  • Victoria O: I dunno, they still are VERY Angel to me. I can barely percept the difference. But still, I’ll try this one. Maybe it will be the best of them. February 18, 2006 at 4:57pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: You are absolutely right. They are very Angel. Although I must say that I like the original Angel the most. Yet, somehow I have hopes for this one, since I love the pairing of rose and patchouli. February 18, 2006 at 5:27pm Reply

  • Campaspe: “It seems that with Rose Angel, the line will end …”

    best damn news I have had so far in 2006. February 19, 2006 at 6:08pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: F, I knew that you would be excited by these news! 🙂 February 20, 2006 at 1:41am Reply

  • Katie: I honestly did not care too much about any of the other floral takes on Angel, though the peony was okay. None of them really were must-buys for me. But the Rose one seems (at least in my mind) like a very promising proposition, so I will dutifully shuffle off to Nordie’s when it comes in to give it a sniff. I am a tad nervous however about this “fruitness like a plum,” but eh – we’ll see. Hopefully it’s not super fruity. February 20, 2006 at 2:10pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Katie, it certainly sounds very interesting, and I hope that the fruity aspect will be subtle. I was not at all interested in any other floral Angels, but this one seems like a great combination of notes. February 20, 2006 at 4:41pm Reply

  • Anya: For once, i wish a synth perfumer would stick to synths. Bulgarian rose otto, as well as the Turkish, are under such buyouts from perfumers it has jacked the price up to the stratosphere, and caused real shortages.

    It’s no secret I detest Angel anyway, so I’d love to have them shove some stinky beta damascone in it, flat and linear, and leave the ottos to those who can actually appreciate, identify, and cherish them. February 23, 2006 at 11:14am Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Somehow I have no doubt that Olivier Cresp who is one of the best perfumers (I do not understand the normative division between natural and synthetic perfumers—isn’t artwork judged by quality rather than the source of materials used) can appreciate the natural essences. If natural essences make their appearance in the mainstream fragrances, I believe that you out of all people should be happy to hear this. Moreover, the mainstream demand from large houses does not necessarily lead to the reduction of quantity supplied. In the short run, yes, the shift in demand might lead to that, but over time the production schedule adjusts. In fact, just considering this from a standard economic perspective, if rose otto were demanded only by a small group, its price would be much higher, because there would be limited competition among producers. February 23, 2006 at 3:07pm Reply

  • Anya: I’m sure Cresp knows, and appreciates the naturals, but darn it, it seems that all the big houses are now using a lot more naturals (backlash against the harsher synths, not the nice ones?) I am intimately aware of the recent upswing in demand for the Bulgarian and Turkish ottos, in particular, and it has led to a shortage. The production schedule cannot adjust, as the fields are under the same development demands as has harmed Grasse. Additionally, the demand has caused the governments of Turkey and Bulgaria to stop subsidizing the crops, as they did previously. A perfect storm. February 23, 2006 at 8:53pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: But the fact that mainstream fragrances should contain more naturals should be a good thing, right? I thought that the reason Grasse fields folded was actually the lack of demand for costly naturals in lieu of synthetics (and, above all, the fact that the land would bring more money if converted into bungalows). What do you mean by demand leading to the end of subsidies? That now the farmers can actually sell their products at the market price, without needing other incentives to produce? That is a very interesting topic. February 23, 2006 at 11:17pm Reply

  • Anya: Perhaps if mainstream companies would use more naturals (although I really *don’t* care whether they do or not) they could choose the aromatics that didn’t have environmental (sandalwood, rosewood, spikenard) or other pressures (the rose ottos). The short range thinking of the perfume houses, yes, their newly-found love of synthetics in the last century did start the decline of the Grasse fields, and then development took over. What they wouldn’t give to have the Grasse jasmin and rose de mai fields back (long range planning).

    I’m also not saying the price correction is wrong — rose otto is worth it, especially when you are aware of the labor, raw aromatic’s yield, 11-month-idle distilleries, etc., etc.

    As far as the subsudies, the increased demand, the farmers, the distillers, etc., that is a very complex topic, and there just isn’t enough room here to go into it all 😉 Please note that the Bulgarian issue is due in part to lack of labor, not so much that in Turkey.. The cost of ottos from both countries has increased 100% in the past three years. Subsidization of industry was in part to keep the work force employed. Those stills are only used one month of the year, they cannot be used for any other aromatic. Oh, this is getting too long and not very coherent. I’ll send you some information I have stored on the issue privately, V, since I know you are very interested in this area, and I don’t want to clog up this lovely blog with economic yap yap (on which I am *not* an expert, so I’ll refer you to others I listen to 😉 February 24, 2006 at 7:35am Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Thanks so much for the forwarded email! I found it just fascinating. What he is saying basically is that the price increases are a good thing, because with the lack of demand for rose otto, the profit margins for the farmers were incredibly low. So low that the government subsidized the production. It makes perfect sense, especially since, as you said, the distilleries stand idle for 11 months out of the year. Reading this email was actually the most vivid realization of how incredibly expensive and time consuming the production of natural essences can be. As your friend said, he would rather work for min. wages at the fast food chain. Makes perfect sense why.

    He also says that the price increases are long overdue and are fair. So, I am not sharing your pessimistic outlook. If the big companies were not demanding rose otto, I would foresee them disappearing altogether, just like Grasse jasmine and rose de mai did, because buyers with limited purchasing power simply cannot guarantee the support to this industry (especially in light of the high opportunity costs of maintaining the rose fields). I am glad that natural essences are included in the mainstream fragrances, that everybody has a chance to experience the high quality fragrances. So, thank you for starting this interesting discussion! February 25, 2006 at 12:01pm Reply

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