Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
L’Artisan Parfumeur Navegar is a scent of stones, shells and driftwood collected on the beach. The woody dryness almost makes me feel sand grains scratching my skin, and as the composition begins its panoramic unfolding, I notice a touch of salty freshness, which provides an interesting counterpoint to the spices and woods comprising this Olivia Giacobetti’s creation for L’Artisan Parfumeur. …
This imaginary beach is a deserted one–just as the sandy dunes slowly descend into the dusky mist in the evening, the citrus shimmer of Navegar’s top notes fades into the raw silk warmth of woods. The luminosity of Navegar’s woody accord is accented by the spices, from the resinous dryness of pepper to the pungent bite of ginger. The lovers of Olivia Giacobetti will find much to enjoy about this L’Artisan—wistful aura, gauzy treatment of woods and caressing whisper of spices. On the other hand, this ethereal quality might disappoint those who prefer their spices fiery.
Although Navegar has been among my favorites ever since it came out in 1998, these days I seem to prefer either Hermès Poivre Samarcande (2004) or its earlier forebear Cartier Déclaration (1998) for a spicy wood theme in light of the fact that these compositions offer more tenacity and sillage. Likewise, a more recent creation, Escentric01 by Escentric Molecules, offers another very enjoyable treatment of the peppery-woody accord. Yet, Navegar remains for me an object of beauty that I cannot but admire, both from the technical and artistic standpoints. It is a perfume, with which to fall into a reverie.
Navegar features notes of red pepper, ginger, lime, absolute rum, black pepper, incense, star anise, juniper, cedar wood, guaiac wood. L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances are available at Aedes, Barneys New York, Beautycafe, Bergdorf Goodman, Bluemercury, Luckyscent, Neiman Marcus, Saks 5th Avenue, and Theperfumeshoppe.
Painting: Georges Seurat. The Channel of Gravelines, Evening. 1890. Oil on canvas. The Museum of Modern Arts, New York. From abcgallery .