Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
Sicily provides an interesting example of using a heavy dose of aldehydes (effervescent aroma-materials made famous by Chanel No 5) in a modern composition. Created by Nathalie Lorson for Dolce & Gabbana in 2003, Sicily rests its floral-aldehydic heart upon the vanillic oriental base. The result is an unexpectedly seductive juxtaposition of soapy notes and powdered honeysuckle, which gently allude to the sun tan oil before segueing into the creamy sweetness of sandalwood. …
Aldehydes are quite diverse in terms of their olfactory profiles, ranging from burnt candles to waxy oranges. They are important in perfumery because when married with the floral opulence, their chemical scent turns into the opalescent sparkle that lends abstraction and intrigue to the finished arrangement. After a long period which gave us classics like Chanel No. 5 (1921) and Nina Ricci Nina (1987), aldehydic florals have fallen out of favor.
This is not to say that aldehydes are rarely used. Quite on the contrary, they are present in many fragrances, from Comme des Garçons 2 Man (2004), where aldehydes serve as a prelude for the woody-leathery darkness to Calvin Klein Eternity Summer (2006), where they lend their metallic chill to the fougère accord. One might also discover the crispness of aldehydes in Frédéric Malle Cologne Bigarade (2001), which sets them against the canvass of bitter orange and cedarwood, or enjoy the elegance of icy aldehydic freshness in Estée Lauder Pure White Linen (2006). Indeed, perfumers are constantly exploring new combinations and materials that might serve as suitable backdrops for the aldehydic fizz.
Although Sicily has a number of modern elements, it attests to the difficulty of rendering the classical floral-aldehydic pairing without the obvious retro references. As the composition develops, it oscillates between the vintage glamour and the coquettish seduction. At the same time, the composition also demonstrates how aldehydes can lift the heft of this floral oriental and create the sand on warm skin effect that is quite sensual. Like most aldehydic fragrances, Sicily simply blossoms in the balmy summer air, and it seems like perfect choice these days, especially when I am going out in the evening.
Sicily includes notes of bergamot, honeysuckle, hibiscus, jasmine, rose, musk, heliotrope, sandalwood. Dolce & Gabbana fragrances are sold at Saks5thAvenue, Sephora, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and a variety of other retailers and discounters.
Sicily ad with gorgeous Monica Bellucci from Parfumsdepub.