Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
Cutting the banana jam sweetness of jasmine with the smoky tobacco is a genius idea. The result is not the fragile flower petals, but the leathery richness of cured tea leaves. Perhaps, for this reason, Jasmin et Cigarette (now called Jasmin et Tabac) created by Givaudan perfumer Antoine Maisondieu for Etat Libre d’Orange is one of my favorite fragrances from the line. It is unpredictable and thus surprising….
The smoked flowers of Jasmin et Cigarette enter center stage from the outset. The sweet, spicy note reminiscent of aged wood is layered over the honeyed warmth of tobacco. The familiar note of jasmine absolute is foiled in this rich, ganache-like medley. It is at this point that Jasmin et Cigarette is at its most alluring, a fascinating interplay between the femininity of flowers and the virile touch of woods and tobacco.
As the composition courses its way through the spicy top notes and warm heart, it suddenly hits a wall of dense musk. Combined with the curried notes, it attains a savory richness, somewhat like getting a whiff of spicy meat stew. While not unappealing, it lends a certain pungency that presents more dissonance in the composition of Jasmin et Cigarette than I would have preferred.
Jasmin et Cigarette features notes of jasmine absolute, tobacco, hay, apricot, tonka bean, tumeric, cedar and musk. For additional information on availability, please see my overview of Etat Libre d’Orange line.
Next: review of Sécrétions Magnifiques.