Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette / Jasmin et Tabac : Perfume Review

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Etatlibredorange

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Cutting the banana jam sweetness of jasmine with the smoky tobacco is a genius idea. The result is not the fragile flower petals, but the leathery richness of cured tea leaves. Perhaps, for this reason, Jasmin et Cigarette (now called Jasmin et Tabac) created by Givaudan perfumer Antoine Maisondieu for Etat Libre d’Orange is one of my favorite fragrances from the line. It is unpredictable and thus surprising….

The smoked flowers of Jasmin et Cigarette enter center stage from the outset. The sweet, spicy note reminiscent of aged wood is layered over the honeyed warmth of tobacco. The familiar note of jasmine absolute is foiled in this rich, ganache-like medley. It is at this point that Jasmin et Cigarette is at its most alluring, a fascinating interplay between the femininity of flowers and the virile touch of woods and tobacco.

As the composition courses its way through the spicy top notes and warm heart, it suddenly hits a wall of dense musk. Combined with the curried notes, it attains a savory richness, somewhat like getting a whiff of spicy meat stew. While not unappealing, it lends a certain pungency that presents more dissonance in the composition of Jasmin et Cigarette than I would have preferred.

Jasmin et Cigarette features notes of jasmine absolute, tobacco, hay, apricot, tonka bean, tumeric, cedar and musk. For additional information on availability, please see my overview of Etat Libre d’Orange line.

Next: review of Sécrétions Magnifiques.

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32 Comments

  • portlandia: This sounds like one I would love! Every individual note is something I really like – the question is, will I like how they put it all together? (And calling the scent of jasmine “banana jam” is exactly right. I never know whether to smell it or eat it!) January 4, 2007 at 1:43am Reply

  • Leopoldo: Nyaaargh! I just called them for samples; they don’t post out. Nyarghhhhh! January 4, 2007 at 5:28am Reply

  • chayaruchama: Wow !
    How compelling.
    Sounds awfully good to me….
    Thank you for your review.
    Hope the new year is off to a good start for you ! January 4, 2007 at 7:00am Reply

  • Judith: Oh, this sounds just wonderful! Thanks so much for this swoonworthy description! January 4, 2007 at 7:12am Reply

  • March: Hmmmm. Judith and I like a savory meat-stew (as in Kolnisch Juchten) but I’m having a bit of trouble picturing it combined with the rest of the fragrance. It definitely sounds worth smelling… January 4, 2007 at 8:18am Reply

  • Flor: Oooh, sounds nice! Love tobacco and jasmine, pairing them is genius. I will definitely give this one a try. January 4, 2007 at 8:45am Reply

  • Marina: I can only manage to say one thing – WANT! And – thank you! 🙂 January 4, 2007 at 8:51am Reply

  • Gaia, the non-blonde: I think that I’ll have to pass. Meat stew isn’t on my list of good things (being a vegetarian would often do that), and lately I’ve been scared of jasmine. January 4, 2007 at 8:58am Reply

  • Robin: Hmmm. Can’t decide if this sounds fabulous or not. Will have to get myself up to HB next month! January 4, 2007 at 11:40am Reply

  • violetnoir: Ooh, I agree with Robin, but I would simply have to try this one, know what I mean? It would either totally work for me or be a total disaster!

    Hugs! January 4, 2007 at 12:33pm Reply

  • Patty: I don’t know if I’d love or hate this, but I really am dying just to smell it. Thanks for the review, V! January 4, 2007 at 1:22pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: D, I loved it up until the musky drydown. Then things just went wrong. Mind you, the first time I tried it, I did not remember experiencing this blast. However, the subsequent applications had me think “meat curry.” Very strange. January 4, 2007 at 1:29pm Reply

  • Fleur.de.Lys: Sounds like a durian effect. The fruit tastes like a custard of coconut curry, pineapple, onions and chicken. January 4, 2007 at 2:58pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Leopoldo, oh, what a shame! I hope that they will be available more widely soon. January 4, 2007 at 3:01pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Chaya, it is very compelling. I just love the jasmine absolute and its richness in the heart. January 4, 2007 at 3:01pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Judith, I cannot wait to hear your thoughts when you get to try it! January 4, 2007 at 3:02pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: March, it is definitely among my favourites out of the line. Wait till you get to try Secretions Magnifiques though. It is quite something else! January 4, 2007 at 3:03pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Flor, I wonder why it has not been explored more in the past. The combination is indeed excellent. January 4, 2007 at 3:03pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Marina, you are most welcome! I hope that you will enjoy it. January 4, 2007 at 3:04pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Gaia, yes, if you do not like jasmine, I would say that you would not enjoy this fragrance. It is for a serious jasmine lover, because the note is quite pronounced. January 4, 2007 at 3:05pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: R, that would definitely been a worthwhile trip. Plus, many other new releases next month will make it even more so. January 4, 2007 at 3:06pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: R, that is definitely true–most of the fragrances from this line are not to be purchased unsniffed. January 4, 2007 at 3:06pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Patty, it is certainly memorable (and long lasting)! January 4, 2007 at 3:07pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Fleur.de.Lys, I can see that. Of course, it is much more subtle than durian. Then again, the topic of durian requires more exploration! January 4, 2007 at 3:09pm Reply

  • Erin Solaro: Dear Victoria:

    I’m a long-time lurker on your blog, as someone who appreciates scent and perfume greatly, but does not have the most educated nose in the world. In a time and place where marketers try to cram “sexee” down our throats at every opportunity, your beautiful writing offers your readers the possibility of genuine pleasure, which you describe with dignity, grace, and an understanding of human individuality.

    Happy New Year to you and yours, and all your correspondents who add to this blog,

    Erin January 4, 2007 at 9:29pm Reply

  • aimtx: I’ve often wondered about blending jasmine with something lower & smokier, but never came up with a good idea for how to do it. I’m really intrigued by this although I, too, am mighty put off by the meat curry idea. Dinner by Bobo is the one & only fragrance that ever made me actually gag (no offense to the Bobo-ites out there), so any mention of that sort of thing causes me to look askance. But I’d like to give it a sniff! January 5, 2007 at 11:04am Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Erin, I am very touched by words, and I am certainly very glad to hear this. It is a pleasure to be able to share one’s thoughts candidly and without the typical “women’s magazine” fluff, and above all, to be understood. The passion and excitement that my readers share with me is the most precious thing! January 5, 2007 at 3:07pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Amy, no, it is not in the Dinner by Bobo category (that is not a favourite of mine either!) However, the savoury touch is something else. Otherwise, Jasmin et Cigarette is quite interesting. January 5, 2007 at 3:08pm Reply

  • Elle: I’m w/ Marina on this one. *Want*. Vegetarian that I am, I still like a meat stew in scents. Everything about this sounds perfect for me. Thanks for the wonderful review! January 6, 2007 at 10:06am Reply

  • LisaCarol: I have to say I was very sceptical about this line to begin with, sounded to me as they were trying way too hard and I wasn’t going to make smelling their creations a priority.
    But then, last night I passed their store in rue des Archives (it was way past midnight so it was closed). However, the thing was, I was with an old fling who’s about to leave Paris for good and we were having a last night out. He had his usual aura of Gaulouises around him and I was wearing Fleeting Moment (I thought it an appropriate scent for saying goodbye to someone who you never spent more than that with) and well, it just hit me – “Jasmine et Cigarette”, WOW. So now I’m going to have to pass to smell it, only hoping it will convey the same image… I’m so sentimental… January 7, 2007 at 5:51am Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Elle, Tania calls Eau d’Hermes to be a “scent of goat curry,” and that did not put me off. Well, goat curry smells delicious! 🙂 I am sure that you will find Jasmin et Cigarette to be interesting, whether you love it or not. January 8, 2007 at 12:39pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: LisaCarol, what an image! Somehow I think that the spirit of your story (not necessarily the real-life details!) fits the photo I posted under Secretions Magnifiques. I do not know why, but the idea of a walk with an old fling down those winding Marais streets has something of film noir about it. Thank you for sharing. Please let me know what you think of the fragrance itself. Did it recreate what you hoped? January 8, 2007 at 12:42pm Reply

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