PFNow Highlights : Interview with Maurice Roucel, Perfume Coffret and More

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The free newsletter published by Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine is featuring highlights from their March issue as well as a few interesting articles. Envy, Insolence and Beyond is offering a great interview with Symrise perfumer Maurice Roucel. By way of example, the interview mentions how Gucci Envy was created. “In fact, this master perfumer’s ideas often take years to form from a single spark of inspiration, such as a flower. In the case of Envy, the flower in question was hyacinth. Spotting this flower in May of 1984 (Roucel can still clearly recall the exact moment), the perfumer was moved. However, the notion that would become this fresh floral scent required 13 years of incubation. “Because of perfection,” Roucel explained. “For Envy, the perfume arrived in 1997, but I’d worked on the idea since 1984.” Roucel is the author of an impressive array of fragrances. His newest creations include Lancôme Hypnôse Homme (includes notes of mint, bergamot, Calabrian mandarin, Chinese cardamom seed, essence of Provençal lavender, amber, musk, and essence of Indonesian patchouli) and Guerlain L’Instant Fleur de Mandarine (magnolia, mandarin, bergamot, bitter orange, blackcurrant and mandarin blossom, musk, amber, vanilla.) Read more. …

In Perfume: Story of a Fragrance Collection, the P&F editorial contributor Michelle Krell Kydd offers a fascinating glimpse into the creation of Thierry Mugler Le Parfum Coffret. “Inner drive was the motivating factor. It’s hard to explain. I don’t know where it comes from. I have always had this flame in me to go the extra mile, whether it was at school, at sports, in dance or at work. It is this sensation, which can kill you with its weight, a sensation of feeling bad or even ridiculous when you know you can do something better, like having an idea and not being able to sleep until you can show yourself that you can do it,” says IFF perfumer Christophe Laudamiel. Read more in the newsletter, while the rest of the article will appear in the March issue of P&F magazine.

More on Perfume movie. In Scent Translates to Screen, drom perfumer Pierre-Constantin Gueros offers his thoughts on whether the movie captured the art of perfumery and whether Grenouille can be considered a true perfumer. His answers are quite intriguing.

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6 Comments

  • Elle: Wonderful articles. Thanks for the links! I always find it interesting that some of the most brilliant perfumers are smokers. The only reason I didn’t take up smoking, despite my total love for everything to do w/ cigarettes, was to keep my nose safe for my primary, pre-existing addiction, perfume. And I found Gueros’ reasoning for why Grenouille can’t necessarily be considered a true perfumer even more intriguing in light of what Roucel said about creating in his mind and the necessity of intuition. Loved the analogy of a good tennis game. The man is *so* charming.
    The article by Michelle looks like it will be fascinating. I do hope there will be more perfumer created concepts that actually reach the marketplace in the future. January 24, 2007 at 10:03pm Reply

  • Mari a: So handsome.
    I can’t way to try the new L’Instant. On a whim I bought L’Instant Millesime Iris, because it was $15 at Sephora, and I adore it. I wonder if Roucel made that one too, I wonder if all the variations of L’Instant were made by him. January 25, 2007 at 8:40am Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Elle, from what I understand, the sense of smell decreases when one starts smoking, or if one smokes on and off. Most perfumers tend to be chainsmokers. Still, that is not reason enough for me to pick up the habit. 🙂 Gueros’ reasoning is very interesting. Overall, I liked this newsletter–lots of interesting articles for all tastes. January 25, 2007 at 5:35pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Marina, yes, all of the L’Instant variations are by Roucel. Only L’Instant pour Homme is not his. I am very curious about Fleur de Mandarine. January 25, 2007 at 5:36pm Reply

  • Madelyn E: Dear Victoria,
    Were I to come into great wealth I would commission none other than Monsieur Maurice Roucel to conceive and develop my personal scent .something like Eau de Madelyn.. He is my favorite contemporary parfumeur a true creative genius. I adore Insolence and Musc Ravageur to name a few. I’m sure I would like Hypnose Homme as well. He seems to create sultry elegant “sexy” beautiful fragrances. While there is no doubt Jean-Claude Ellena also holds a top place in the perfumeur hierarchy with his brilliant transparency quality ..I prefer the depth and warmth that is Roucel . I wish I could sample Shalini – I know I would love it !
    Madelyn E January 25, 2007 at 11:37pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Madelyn, I am with you! I would love that too. Well, for the time being, I can wear and enjoy Musc Ravageur and many of his wonderful others.

    Shalini is at Aedes. Did you see it there? January 26, 2007 at 12:34pm Reply

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