February 2007: 21 posts

Juozas Statkevicius / Josef Statkus : Perfume Review

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Attending Sunday mass has never been a part of my childhood, and perhaps it is for this reason that the church service has never lost its romantic appeal for me. Even the simple act of burning frankincense satisfies my longings for its mysterious darkness and serenity. As a perfume note, it possesses a remarkable complexity and depth. In fragrance, frankincense tends to add the same beguiling sobriety and austerity that I discovered when inhaling its scent inside churches. Given its ornate quality, the less complicated the treatment of incense, the more rewarding the result. In this vein, the eponymous fragrance from Lithuanian fashion designer Juozas Statkevičius (Josef Statkus) is a composition that is bound to sway those with a penchant for the dark and sonorous incantations of incense.

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Balmain Vent Vert New and Vintage : Perfume Review

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

There are days in the winter when one can smell spring. It comes surreptitiously, even if the ground is still covered with snow and the sun is concealed by thick white clouds. Yet, the fragrance of spring is unmistakable—fresh, wet, and earthy, bearing that violet intensity that marks the desire of living beings to cast off winter’s slumber. Remarkably, this dissonance of spring is captured by perfumer Germaine Cellier in Vent Vert, the perfume created for Pierre Balmain in 1947.

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Vera Wang Truly Pink : Perfume Review

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I made no secret of finding Vera Wang Princess not only puerile, but also unexciting. In this light, Truly Pink is a much more elegant composition—sheer, pretty rose on a woody base. It fully lives up to its name, conjuring visions of pink tulle and satin slippers. …

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IFF Perfumers In the News

March issue of Perfumer & Flavorist has a five page feature by Michelle Krell Kydd devoted to Thierry Mugler Le Parfum. The feature comprises an interview with perfumer Christophe Laudamiel of International Flavors & Fragrances. There is also a separate article discussing the fragrances. Laudamiel is also a subject of The Boston Globe article, Making Perfect Scents.

Moreover, another two IFF perfumers have been in the news lately. The Friday issue of Women’s Wear Daily ran a story of Nobi Shioya’s project, Made by Blog. The article talks of perfumers Clement Gavarry and Laurent Le Guernec, who have been working with fragrance bloggers Marina  of Perfume-Smellin’ Things and Katie of Scentzilla. The goal of Made by Blog project is to demonstrate the process of fragrance creation.  You can read more about Shioya’s projects in The New Wave, Part 1, which was published in the Perfumer & Flavorist newsletter.

Kouign Aman ~ The Breakfast of Perfumers

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by Michelle Krell Kydd

When it comes to eating, nearly every perfumer I’ve ever had the pleasure of dining with qualifies as a sensualist. Perfumers don’t just taste their food—they live in its aura and bask in the afterglow. If the saying “you are what you eat” is worth its weight, then it would stand to reason that what someone chooses to eat first thing in the morning says a lot about that person’s character. …

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