Spring made a brief visit to the East Coast of the USA before being chased out once again with heavy snows. Yet, my intense longing for the freshness and lightness that spring tends to bring has sought an outlet in scents that can usher in the spring. Below are some of my favourite fragrances—besides those mentioned in my earlier Fragrance of Spring article—that never fail to make me feel as if I am smelling the spring air. Or else, they seem to capture the duality and the vibrancy of this beautiful season. Of course, it does not mean that these are fragrances to be worn only in the spring. On the contrary, they are perfumes that can evoke the spring any time of the year. …
Note: there are more fragrances mentioned in my Fragrance of Spring article, the list below is an additional one.
Annick Goutal Eau de Ciel (water from the sky) is a sheer composition of iris and rosewood. Intimate and delicate, it is one of the most uplifting fragrances, and yet it retains a certain melancholy quality that marks the evanescent spring. Another charming Annick Goutal floral is Le Chèvrefeuille. Le Chèvrefeuille is a crisp, citrusy blend of narcissus and honeysuckle, a lacy floral bouquet.
Armani Privé Eau de Jade is a classical cologne with pronounced green notes reminiscent of crushed leaves and grasses. Somehow, few perfumes work better than Eau de Jade in evoking the brilliance of new green leaves.
Christian Dior Cologne Blanche takes the idea of a classical masculine cologne and gives it a completely unexpected twist with the combination of sweet almond, vanilla and orange blossom.
Despite its name, Eau d’Italie Sienne L’Hiver evokes the brooding beauty of early spring, when snow still covers the landscape, but the first greens are beginning to appear. It combines the earthy dampness of soil, the nutty warmth of last year’s leaves and the crispness of the spring breeze. Serge Lutens Bois et Musc possesses a similar character as well—juxtaposition of warmth and freshness, with a nutty tinge of decay.
Guerlain Herba Fresca is another rejuvenating green fragrance. Mint, basil and grasses… It is the scent of a cool breeze.
Sheer yet rich, Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne, without a doubt, is one of the best musk dominant fragrances. Although marketed as a masculine, it is perfectly suitable for women. The juxtaposition of the radiance of its heart and the musky warmth of the base makes it outstanding.
Putting on Jean Patou Cocktail immediately makes me feel like a film noir actress— dry martini, subtle whispers of tobacco and a touch of lavender cologne worn by my dashing co-star. This austere chypre composition is not light hearted; therefore, the set is Paris in the spring, circa 1940s.
On the other hand, Jean Patou Vacances is the scent of spring in Provence. A perfume that brings a smile to my face and makes me feel as if something wonderful is about to happen. A gem!
Lancôme Climat is an arrangement of aldehydic sparkle and green floral notes. It is a stylized version of spring—a glossy photograph of a city on a warm April day, rather than the bucolic landscapes of Fragonard’s brush.
Ormonde Jayne Champaca is a fragrance for which I instinctively reach as soon as the weather warms up. Crisp and airy, it seems to capture the brilliant colors of spring and its effervescent character.
Robert Piguet Bandit is marked by a pronounced animalic darkness; however, its green floral accord scintillates like melting ice. There is something unforgettable in this juxtaposition. Despite its strength and intensity, Bandit manages to retain a striking and elegant beauty.
The Different Company Osmanthus is a floral with a decidedly masculine character. The delicate apricot accent is hidden under an opaque, chalky note; the jasmine redolent sweetness is toned down by the green notes. Composed in these series of contrasts, Osmanthus retains a certain lift, which sets it apart from other florals. Lacking the honeyed richness or pronounced indolic heft, it simply soars.
Photo of Audrey Hepburn from phoebeohp.blogspot.com.