August 2010: 7 posts

The aroma that set the imagination of Middle Eastern poets and Sufi mystics aflame is a fascinating product of the process that via slow deterioration brings immortality. Oud is a resin released by Aquilaria tree species in order to protect themselves against fungus that decomposes their bark and branches. Developing over many decades, oud is priced above rubies. The high quality oud is a true dark gold, its fragrance ethereal and complex, blending nuances of ambergris, sweet incense, tobacco and wood. The lower grades, on the other hand, have a sharp, dark, less nuanced and pleasant scent. Its rich fragrance is used for scenting mosques and clothes in the Middle East, and it is believed that oud can ward off the evil eye as well as attract lovers.

A brief glimpse at the list of fragrances launched over the past couple of years and the launches still ahead this year make it patently clear that oud has been an au courant note for the first decade of our millennium. From Trish McEvoyto Tom Ford, it appears either as a central note or as a main component of a woody accord. At this rate, we might even see Bath & Body Works “Warm Vanilla Oudh”! On the one hand, the popularity of this complex note is surprisingly, for it is certainly not an easy scent to appreciate—sharp, animalic, pungent, intense. On the other, it is an exciting backnote for modern fragrances, lending a new dimension to the compositions. It pairs well with the traditional oriental notes, from rose to vanilla, as well as with the crisp modern ambers and the effervescent hersperidic notes. It should be noted that oud found in many fragrances is not the precious natural oil, which is not only quite rare, but also quite expensive. Still, a number of oud bases I have smelled have an interesting character that captures some of the features of the natural material, which is rich and seductive.

Therefore, I would like to give an overview of 25 or so of the oud dominated fragrances on the market and to highlight a few others to explore.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Until I started working in the fragrance industry, I automatically assumed that the terms “niche, expensive, Paris-exclusive” guarantee quality, originality and elegance, while the big designer brands and mass market would offer exactly the opposite. Of course, nothing could be further from the truth. Some niche brands do indeed spend a lot of effort on fragrance, as do some large popular brands, while others spend less money on scent than do detergent companies. And believe me, it is quite little for fine fragrance. In this light, it is liberating to forget about labels and simply look for interesting discoveries in venues other than high-end boutiques. My most recent discovery of this sort is Bath & Body Works Velvet Tuberose.

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