Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
In Arabic, one can wish someone a morning of roses, “sabah al ward.” Whenever I hear the words “Clair Matin,” I think of this beautiful expression. The idea behind the newest limited edition fragrance from Les Parfums de Rosine was indeed to capture the delicate scent of pink roses as they unfold in the morning. Yet, the question that remained for me as I wore Clair Matin was whether it truly evoked a rose scented dawn for me.
For lovers of rose dominated perfumes, Les Parfums de Rosine is a fragrance house with lots of interesting options to explore. If one is craving rose lemonade, Un Zeste de Rose will provide an exhilarating experience. Should one decide on a perfume that captures the feeling of red velvet, one cannot go wrong with Rose d’Amour, a luscious rose accented with tuberose and violet. Created by François Robert, who is responsible for most of Les Parfums de Rosine fragrances, Clair Matin is named after a climbing rose variety that grows in the garden of Marie-Hélène Rogeon, the creative director of Les Parfums de Rosine.
Clair Matin opens up on a vivid green note accented with tart blackcurrant buds. In contrast to my favorite green rose Un Zeste de Rose, Clair Matin is much softer and warmer even in the beginning. Its heart, while focusing on a sheer pink rose, is blended with other floral notes. Jasmine and violet lend it a pleasant warmth, which is reinforced in the drydown by the creamy woods and amber. The fruity notes are understated, and they mostly provide a pleasant nuance to the floral accord.
While Clair Matin starts out as a fresh, radiant rose, its drydown has a warm, sweet quality. Although this soft base accord serves as a great counterpoint to the sheer floral heart, I do not care for the lavish dose of white musks and clean woods. A powdery, plastic-like feeling begins to dominate Clair Matin as it loses its sparkle and rose petal lightness. Just like the romance of the morning tends to look trite in the bright sunshine of the day, so does Clair Matin as it dries down on the skin. Therefore, for now I am content with Un Zeste de Rose to ensure a truly wonderful “morning of roses.”
Les Parfums de Rosine Clair Matin Eau Fraîche includes notes of raspberry leaves, lemon, black currant, chamomile, violet, Turkish rose, peony, musk, apricot, sandalwood and ambergris. It is available from Barneys, Aedes and First in Fragrance in Germany.
Sample: my own acquisition