In general, sheer roses and floral motifs frequently serve as the main themes for spring launches so I decided to compile a selection of fragrances to highlight the rose tinted ideas that we are about to see coming in April-May. I will add a mini-review and a star rating to the fragrances I have already sampled.
In the same vein, do you have any favorite roses for spring?
Prada Infusion de Rose
Created by perfumer Daniela Andrier, who is also responsible for Infusion d’Iris, Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger, Infusion de Tubéreuse and Infusion de Vétiver, the composition includes notes of Turkish and Bulgarian rose, mandarin, peppermint, yerbamaté, and beeswax. A very pretty sheer rose, but for $105 I would want something much more memorable. It has a lovely sparkling green top, while the drydown is a conventional sweet rose.
Another fragrance in Les Jardins series from the master perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena . Apple, pear, magnolia, rose, and green herbs are the main notes of this fresh and crisp fruity-floral. Interesting idea, poor lasting power and not a particularly memorable character. Still, fans of Ellena’s work should give it a try.
Les Parfums de Rosine Clair Matin Eau Fraîche
A limited edition fragrance inspired by the first rose bush that Les Parfums de Rosine creator Marie-Hélène, planted in her garden. Created by François Robert, Clair Matin includes notes of lemon, black currant, raspberry leaves, chamomile, peony, violet, Turkish rose, musk, apricot, sandalwood and ambergris. A very pretty rose, with a green fruity accent. It opens up on an effervescent, brilliant citrusy and leafy notes and dries down to a warm, creamy rose musk. Perhaps, not the most original of roses, but very attractive nonetheless.
A sheer rose with green and jasmine accents, Cartier de Lune is pretty and dainty. Perhaps, too pretty and too dainty to be particularly memorable, but it is certainly well-done. It includes notes of includes notes of pink pepper, juniper berries, honeysuckle, wild rose, cyclamen, bindweed (morning glory,) lily of the valley, musk, and woods.
A nicely made green floral with a strong rose-peony theme. Other than being too tame for a niche brand, there is nothing bad to say about it. Madison Square Park was developed by perfumer Laurent Le Guernec and it includes notes of grape, hyacinth, huckleberry, prairie dropseed grass, red leaf rose, Red Hunter tulip, teakwood and vetiver. Available at Bond No 9 New York stores, Saks Fifth Avenue and directly from the Bond no 9 website (3.4 ounces, $240; 1.7 ounces, $170; silver pocket spray, $90.)
L’Occitane Rose Jardin Délice
At one point, L’Occitane used to make really interesting fragrances with strong notes of herbs, spices and woods. These days, the range is starting to become more and more predictable. Rose Jardin Délice is the latest unremarkable fruity-floral, with notes of bergamot, cassis, lychee, rose, cranberries, raspberry, cedarwood, sandalwood, and musk. It is essentially a thin rose with a big dollop of fruit compote. 2.5oz, $40
Chloé Rosebud by Chloé
This is the limited edition variation on the original Chloé Eau de Parfum (2008), created by perfumers Amandine Marie and Michel Almairac. It includes note sof pink peony, freesia, lychee, magnolia, lily of the valley, rose, cedarwood, amber, and honey. Extremely sharp and jarring rose, with a screechy woody drydown. More reminiscent of a functional product than a fine fragrance.
Givenchy Very Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Damascena de Turquie
Very Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Damascena de Turquie is the new limited edition from this year’s Harvest Collection, “Les Millesimes de Givenchy.” They are enriched with a specific floral note from the 2010 harvest. The rose supposedly comes from an organic crop, while the original green floral composition is made fruitier with the addition of raspberry.
Other fragrances in the collection include Ange ou Démon Le Jasmin Sambac de Chine, Amarige L’Ylang-Ylang des Comores and Organza Le Néroli d’Égypte.
Guerlain Aqua Allègoria Rosa Blanca
Created by Guerlain in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser, Rosa Blanca includes notes of peach, jasmine, rose and magnolia. The fragrance is described as a fresh, crisp rose. It debuts this month at Guerlain counters. 2.5oz bottle, $59.
Guerlain Idylle Duet Rose Patchouli
A flanker to the original Idylle, Duet Rose Patchouli was created by Thierry Wasser. It includes notes of freesia, jasmine, lilac, lily of the valley, peony, rose, patchouli, and moss. The fragrance explores a stronger rose patchouli marriage, placing its main accent on this pairing.
Paul Smith Rose Summer Edition 2011
Created by Shyamala Maisondieu, Paul Smith Rose Summer Edition is a limited edition and a flanker to Paul Smith Rose. The notes feature bergamot, apricot, black currant, osmanthus, rose, rose tea, strawberry, white musk, sandalwood and amber. It launches in April as an Eau de Toilette.
Ungaro Diva Rose
This is a limited edition offering created by perfumer Olivier Cresp. The classical rose theme is suggested by the notes of bergamot, green leaves, rose, lychee, freesia, lilac, Bulgarian rose, dewy green note, amberwood, and musk.
Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose
A flanker to the original Flowerbomb, a lighter and more rose focused interpretation. The composition includes the notes of bergamot, mandarin, pink pepper, lily of the valley, rose, sugared almonds, raspberry, red fruits, patchouli, cashmere woods, and amber.
Yves Saint Laurent Paris Premières Roses Eau de Toilette Légère
Paris receives a rose themed flanker every spring, and this year is no different. The notes include rose, lily of the valley, peony, orange blossom, violet, sandalwood and musk. I generally find these limited editions to be quite pretty, though not particularly memorable.
Scattering of Peony Petals
L’Occitane Pivoine Flora
Another fruity-floral May launch from L’Occitane, Pivoine Flora explores a sheer rose-peony note accented with citrus. The notes include grapefruit, bergamot, green notes, peony, violet, magnolia, cedarwood, vanilla and musk. It will be available as both Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette and will have a whole range of matching bath and body products.
Kenzo 10:10 am in Sicilia
Perfumer Sophie Labbé recreates the aromas of Sicily with this crisp fruity-floral from Kenzo. It includes notes of bergamot, grapefruit, mandarin, freesia, peony, fig, cedarwood, vetiver, and musk.
The Different Company Pure Virgin
The idea of Pure Virgin, a unisex fragrance from The Different Company is to create a simple and easy-to-wear fragrance, which nevertheless feels like a second skin. Created by perfumer Céline Ellena, it includes notes of air note, linen, white rose, cedarwood, musk, and calisson (candied melon and almond candy from Provence).
Photo credit: rose bouquets from Wikicommons, some rights reserved.