Rose Perfumes for Spring : Trend Watch and Fragrance News

Roses

Trend Watch : Dark Side of Gourmand / Orient Express / Classical Flowers

Trend Watch : Orange Blossom / Aromatic Fougère / Modern Cologne

In general, sheer roses and floral motifs frequently serve as the main themes for spring launches so I decided to compile a selection of fragrances to highlight the rose tinted ideas that we are about to see coming in April-May. I will add a mini-review and a star rating to the fragrances I have already sampled.

In the same vein, do you have any favorite roses for spring?

Prada Infusion de Rose

Rated 4.5 out of 5.0

Created by perfumer Daniela Andrier, who is also responsible for Infusion d’Iris, Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger, Infusion de Tubéreuse and Infusion de Vétiver, the composition includes notes of Turkish and Bulgarian rose, mandarin, peppermint, yerbamaté, and beeswax. A very pretty sheer rose, but for $105 I would want something much more memorable. It has a lovely sparkling green top, while the drydown is a conventional sweet rose.

Hermès Un Jardin Sur le Toit

Rated 4.5 out of 5.0

Another fragrance in Les Jardins series from the master perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena . Apple, pear, magnolia, rose, and green herbs are the main notes of this fresh and crisp fruity-floral. Interesting idea, poor lasting power and not a particularly memorable character. Still, fans of Ellena’s work should give it a try.

Les Parfums de Rosine Clair Matin Eau Fraîche

Rated 4.5 out of 5.0

A limited edition fragrance inspired by the first rose bush that Les Parfums de Rosine creator Marie-Hélène, planted in her garden. Created by François Robert, Clair Matin includes notes of lemon, black currant, raspberry leaves, chamomile, peony, violet, Turkish rose, musk, apricot, sandalwood and ambergris. A very pretty rose, with a green fruity accent. It opens up on an effervescent, brilliant citrusy and leafy notes and dries down to a warm, creamy rose musk. Perhaps, not the most original of roses, but very attractive nonetheless.

Cartier de Lune

Rated 4.5 out of 5.0

A sheer rose with green and jasmine accents, Cartier de Lune is pretty and dainty. Perhaps, too pretty and too dainty to be particularly memorable, but it is certainly well-done. It includes notes of includes notes of pink pepper, juniper berries, honeysuckle, wild rose, cyclamen, bindweed (morning glory,) lily of the valley, musk, and woods.

Bond No. 9 Madison Square Park

Rated 4.5 out of 5.0

A nicely made green floral with a strong rose-peony theme. Other than being too tame for a niche brand, there is nothing bad to say about it. Madison Square Park was developed by perfumer Laurent Le Guernec and it includes notes of grape, hyacinth, huckleberry, prairie dropseed grass, red leaf rose, Red Hunter tulip, teakwood and vetiver. Available at Bond No 9 New York stores, Saks Fifth Avenue and directly from the Bond no 9 website (3.4 ounces, $240; 1.7 ounces, $170; silver pocket spray, $90.)

L’Occitane Rose Jardin Délice

Rated 4.5 out of 5.0

At one point, L’Occitane used to make really interesting fragrances with strong notes of herbs, spices and woods. These days, the range is starting to become more and more predictable. Rose Jardin Délice is the latest unremarkable fruity-floral, with notes of bergamot, cassis, lychee, rose, cranberries, raspberry, cedarwood, sandalwood, and musk. It is essentially a thin rose with a big dollop of fruit compote. 2.5oz, $40

Chloé Rosebud by Chloé

Rated 4.5 out of 5.0

This is the limited edition variation on the original Chloé Eau de Parfum (2008), created by perfumers Amandine Marie and Michel Almairac. It includes note sof pink peony, freesia, lychee, magnolia, lily of the valley, rose, cedarwood, amber, and honey. Extremely sharp and jarring rose, with a screechy woody drydown. More reminiscent of a functional product than a fine fragrance.

Givenchy Very Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Damascena de Turquie
Very Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Damascena de Turquie is the new limited edition from this year’s Harvest Collection, “Les Millesimes de Givenchy.” They are enriched with a specific floral note from the 2010 harvest. The rose supposedly comes from an organic crop, while the original green floral composition is made fruitier with the addition of raspberry.
Other fragrances in the collection include Ange ou Démon Le Jasmin Sambac de Chine, Amarige L’Ylang-Ylang des Comores and Organza Le Néroli d’Égypte.

Guerlain Aqua Allègoria Rosa Blanca
Created by Guerlain in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser, Rosa Blanca includes notes of peach, jasmine, rose and magnolia. The fragrance is described as a fresh, crisp rose. It debuts this month at Guerlain counters. 2.5oz bottle, $59.

Guerlain Idylle Duet Rose Patchouli
A flanker to the original Idylle, Duet Rose Patchouli was created by Thierry Wasser. It includes notes of freesia, jasmine, lilac, lily of the valley, peony, rose, patchouli, and moss. The fragrance explores a stronger rose patchouli marriage, placing its main accent on this pairing.

Paul Smith Rose Summer Edition 2011
Created by Shyamala Maisondieu, Paul Smith Rose Summer Edition is a limited edition and a flanker to Paul Smith Rose. The notes feature bergamot, apricot, black currant, osmanthus, rose, rose tea, strawberry, white musk, sandalwood and amber. It launches in April as an Eau de Toilette.

Ungaro Diva Rose
This is a limited edition offering created by perfumer Olivier Cresp. The classical rose theme is suggested by the notes of bergamot, green leaves, rose, lychee, freesia, lilac, Bulgarian rose, dewy green note, amberwood, and musk.

Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose
A flanker to the original Flowerbomb, a lighter and more rose focused interpretation. The composition includes the notes of bergamot, mandarin, pink pepper, lily of the valley, rose, sugared almonds, raspberry, red fruits, patchouli, cashmere woods, and amber.

Yves Saint Laurent Paris Premières Roses Eau de Toilette Légère
Paris receives a rose themed flanker every spring, and this year is no different. The notes include rose, lily of the valley, peony, orange blossom, violet, sandalwood and musk. I generally find these limited editions to be quite pretty, though not particularly memorable.

Scattering of Peony Petals

L’Occitane Pivoine Flora
Another fruity-floral May launch from L’Occitane, Pivoine Flora explores a sheer rose-peony note accented with citrus. The notes include grapefruit, bergamot, green notes, peony, violet, magnolia, cedarwood, vanilla and musk. It will be available as both Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette and will have a whole range of matching bath and body products.

Kenzo 10:10 am in Sicilia
Perfumer Sophie Labbé recreates the aromas of Sicily with this crisp fruity-floral from Kenzo. It includes notes of bergamot, grapefruit, mandarin, freesia, peony, fig, cedarwood, vetiver, and musk.

The Different Company Pure Virgin
The idea of Pure Virgin, a unisex fragrance from The Different Company is to create a simple and easy-to-wear fragrance, which nevertheless feels like a second skin. Created by perfumer Céline Ellena, it includes notes of air note, linen, white rose, cedarwood, musk, and calisson (candied melon and almond candy from Provence).

Jardintoitbottle Rosa blanca Psrosesummerbox

Photo credit: rose bouquets from Wikicommons, some rights reserved.

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65 Comments

  • Rowanhill: Simple but so pretty for spring is Agua Fresca de Rosas by Adolfo Dominguez.
    If one day I could find the scent of the white mid summer rose bush of my grandmother’s garden, sweet and warmed by the sun with the cut hay and earthy elements combined, that would be a dream come true. April 9, 2011 at 3:47am Reply

  • Le critique de parfum: Glad to see more reviews on Bois de Jasmin!

    I think CARTIER DE LUNE is the rose to watch for this spring. Soft, delicate, fresh (thanks to lilly of the valley) on the most creamy musk-sandalwood. It’s just brillant.

    As for the ultimate spring rose, check ESSENCE by Narciso Rodriguez, this one is so pure and mythical that’s it’s probably coming straight from the Fountain of Youth ❀ April 9, 2011 at 4:19am Reply

  • Olfactoria: It is so disappointing that the subsequent Prada Infusion fragrances do not hold what Infusion d’Iris promised. I was hoping rose would be great… 🙁 April 9, 2011 at 5:19am Reply

  • Natalia: I find Jo Malone uncomplicated Red Roses very springy. I even go as far as match it with Bulgarian rose shower gel and body lotion and I enjoy wearing the scent all day long, with Red Roses adding the fresh, pretty touch to this base.

    Otherwise I seem to be on a quest for a pretty mimosa, or a gardenia, and Iris Nobile edp never fails to make me happy – it’s such a colorful spring scent to me 🙂

    I did stop by to sniff Infusion de Rose (blah) and Jardin sur le Toit (expected more). Will try Sicilian Kenzo. I used to be so in love with Kenzo pour l’Homme, but ran into what seems like a reformulation and dont know what to expect from them… unfortunately. April 9, 2011 at 5:20am Reply

  • Uella: I went to Barney’s yesterday but I don’t think they carry the whole Rosine line anymore. I’m not a fan of Thierry Wasser by any means but I’ll try the new Aqua Allegoria Rosa, on the other hand I love Mathile Laurent’s perfumes but Cartier de Lune was very disappointing to me, too generic and harsh for my taste. April 9, 2011 at 5:21am Reply

  • Parfumista: As I stick to dark rose – patchouli – oud most of the year I now try to change my mind to lighter roses such as: Annick Goutals Rose Splendide, I like that the green notes make me feel that also the thorns, stem and leaves from the rosebush are in the mix. I think that Isabel Doyen has borrowed some facets of the green note from The Unicorn Spell “the green bean note”. Another roseinfused scent that I like for spring/summer is Jardin Secret from Patricia de Nicolaï. I think that Parfums de Nicolaï and Annick Goutal are my true spring/summer perfumhouses, their light and beautiful fragrances make me hapy : ) April 9, 2011 at 6:17am Reply

  • Austenfan: My favourite light rose is Ecume de Rose des Parfums de Rosine. I also like Rose Pivoine de Patricia de Nicolaï. And I wear Paris, YSL no matter what season it is. I find it very cheerful and uplifting and not all that strong. April 9, 2011 at 7:41am Reply

  • Ann C: The rose photo at the top of this article is just gorgeous! I also love the star system you’re using; it’s very helpful. I plan to sample Infusion de Rose, but this is the second average rating I’ve read today. The bottle is beautiful; I was hoping the juice would live up to the bottle.

    What would you recommend for someone looking for a beautiful spring rose? April 9, 2011 at 8:07am Reply

  • chrisb: It may not be the most obvious spring fragrance but I like wearing Tauer’s Incense Rose at this time of year (but applied very sparingly!) It just seems very cheerful. April 9, 2011 at 9:02am Reply

  • Alexandra: Hallo!
    Actually, in a confession kind of style, I quite like Moroccan Rose from Body shop… Its lasting power is not great, but it is inexpensive, and it gives me this rosy embrace, without feeling remorseful for spraying liberally… I thought I liked Drole de Rose, but I realised I find it too sweet… April 9, 2011 at 9:20am Reply

  • Lucy: So nice to meet you yesterday! I love roses, and two favorites are Voleur de Roses and Paestum Rose. For an intense rose experience I have Montale Roses Petals. DSH also has a beautiful rose based on Josephine’s vintage formula, Rose Imperiale. I am almost out of that, must get more, it’s practically a psychological medication for its uplifting and soothing qualities. April 9, 2011 at 9:21am Reply

  • Lucy: I almost forgot, Parfum de Rosine Rose d’Ete! April 9, 2011 at 9:23am Reply

  • Alexandra: Oh, and my all time favourite is L’Ombre Dans Leau- but although based on Bulgarian roses, they are not easily detected! April 9, 2011 at 9:28am Reply

  • Ann C: I’m wearing a spritz of the Cartier de Lune I won here 🙂 and agree that it’s a lovely sheer rose. April 9, 2011 at 10:01am Reply

  • Elisa: L’Ombre dans l’Eau is a favorite of mine for spring as well! I also like Agent Provocateur most in spring and fall. And White Linen, though it took me a while to find the rose in it. April 9, 2011 at 10:04am Reply

  • Justine Jones: I love Une FM’s Une Rose and JCE’s Rose Ikabana. April 9, 2011 at 10:08am Reply

  • Cymbaline: I love AG’s Rose Splendide. I have a few rose perfumes, but always seem to choose RS! April 9, 2011 at 11:05am Reply

  • Victoria: That is my fantasy as well. There is nothing like sun warmed tea roses from my grandmother’s garden. It is a scent that I have never found in a perfume bottle. April 9, 2011 at 11:07am Reply

  • Victoria: Essence sounds interesting. I’ve smelled very briefly, but I need to revisit it. April 9, 2011 at 11:08am Reply

  • Victoria: Me too, I am very disappointed. I do like Infusion de Vetiver though. Very polished and elegant, especially for those who like their vetiver fragrances to be soft. April 9, 2011 at 11:08am Reply

  • Victoria: I’ve recently smelled Kenzo Power and Kenzo Woody, both excellent. Kenzo Power is a floral masculine, but I would wear it myself. It smells like a violet chypre to me. April 9, 2011 at 11:09am Reply

  • Victoria: I am with you. I admire her work, but Cartier de Lune is just too commercial and too unmemorable. April 9, 2011 at 11:09am Reply

  • Victoria: I love those green bean notes, especially when paired with floral accords. Rose Splendide is wonderful, and I am glad that you’ve reminded me of it. I am going to pull out my bottle and wear it today. April 9, 2011 at 11:11am Reply

  • Victoria: Paris is very uplifting indeed. Some of its flankers are quite good too, with a fresher character than the original. Overall, warm violet-roses like that come across as very joyful and vivacious to me. April 9, 2011 at 11:12am Reply

  • Victoria: I love love love Prada packaging! It is exquisite and well-made, down to the last detail. I also was hoping that Infusion de Rose would have been better. As it is, it is pretty, but boring.

    I am so glad that Cartier de Lune found a good home with you!! April 9, 2011 at 11:13am Reply

  • Victoria: Makes perfect sense! I love rose attars in tiny quantities, because they bloom so well on warm skin. April 9, 2011 at 11:13am Reply

  • Victoria: L’Ombre dans l’Eau is perhaps my favorite Diptyque for its dark stemmy rose and a rich woody accord.
    White Linen has a lovely rose note, very high grade rose absolute in fact reinforced by some rose aroma-materials. April 9, 2011 at 11:15am Reply

  • Victoria: Lucy, it was such a pleasure! I just wish we had more time to chat. Next time, I hope!

    Voleur de Roses and Paestum Rose are my favorites too. As much as sheer roses are appealing in the spring, I always gravitate towards my darker, moodier flowers. April 9, 2011 at 11:16am Reply

  • Victoria: It was my first discovery from Les Parfums de Rosine. I still have a soft spot for it. April 9, 2011 at 11:16am Reply

  • Victoria: Those are beautiful roses, different, but each has something special. April 9, 2011 at 11:17am Reply

  • Victoria: Another Rose Splendide fan! I love this rose as well.

    I also love AG Quel Amour!, which is more of a peony, but still, the rose character is obvious. April 9, 2011 at 11:17am Reply

  • maggiecat: I like to blend Jo Malone Red Roses with JM French Lime Blossom for a wonderful spring scent! April 9, 2011 at 1:33pm Reply

  • behemot: I like LAP Drole de Rpse, Andy Tauer Une Rose Vermeiile and FM Un Rose. Also, Rosa Magnifica, one of Guerlain Aquas Allegorias comes to mind.
    How about SL Sa Majeste La Rose?
    Have to smell a new Prada.. April 9, 2011 at 1:54pm Reply

  • gautami: Is Essence the one in Chrome bottle? April 9, 2011 at 2:26pm Reply

  • axum: I just received a mid-size decant of Jovoy Chypre. It’s a lovely lush, dewy, rich pink rose-jasmine-patchouli blend. I already know the sample won’t last long and that I will soon be hunting for a full bottle… April 9, 2011 at 2:42pm Reply

  • Victoria: Sounds like a beautiful combination! April 9, 2011 at 3:41pm Reply

  • Victoria: I love Sa Majeste La Rose, which is a velvety rose, with enough richness to be interesting and yet airy and luminous. Perfect anytime, IMO! April 9, 2011 at 3:42pm Reply

  • Victoria: Your description of Jovoy Chypre is wonderful! Now, it is on my list to try. April 9, 2011 at 5:11pm Reply

  • Le critique de parfum: You totally should Victoria 😉

    My advice : on the neck only. It’s divine ❁ April 9, 2011 at 5:20pm Reply

  • Victoria: Yes, that’s right! April 9, 2011 at 5:22pm Reply

  • Lily: Sa Majeste is my favourite also. I love the concept of the Rosines but admit to being somewhat overwhelmed by the range! April 9, 2011 at 7:27pm Reply

  • Natalia: Oh, sounds simply gorgeous! Thanks for the idea. April 9, 2011 at 7:49pm Reply

  • Victoria: Also, try Kenzo Amour Indian Holi–a great sheer rose on a warm oriental base. I love it, almost more than the original (which I am enjoying also.) April 9, 2011 at 8:37pm Reply

  • Victoria: Yes, it is true. The range is huge and it is difficult to approach it without having some sort of road map. Rose d’Ete, Ecume de Rose and Un Zeste de Rose are my personal airy rose favorites. La Rose de Rosine is a heavier, richer rose. April 9, 2011 at 8:38pm Reply

  • karin: Parfum d’Empire’s 3 Fleurs is a great spring scent – rose, tuberose, and jasmine! April 10, 2011 at 4:42pm Reply

  • Elisa: Yes, it wasn’t until I compared White Linen and First that I noticed how rosy White Linen is. April 10, 2011 at 5:51pm Reply

  • Mimi: First, thank you for the great information. I already crossed several fragrances off my list of those I am interested in. Your information was enough to end my interest.

    I love roses (though right now I’m in a Tuberose fever). I love Drole de Rose, Voleur de Roses, Lipstick Rose, Rose en Noir and Rose Splendide. Obviously, I too love the dark roses. Knowing is great because it has a blend of tuberose and rose and is dark.

    I just haven’t found something yet that speaks spring to me. Some of the problem is that Atlanta temperatures are more summery than spring. April 10, 2011 at 7:36pm Reply

  • mals86: One of my very favorite warm-weather scents. So cheerful and effortlessly pretty. April 10, 2011 at 9:09pm Reply

  • mals86: Roses for spring! I love rose scents, but I do tend to switch from the darker ones to the more airy interpretations as the weather warms up.

    I adore Parfums de Rosine Rose d’Ete – my first niche purchase, and still one of my favorite scents. I enjoy my Paris Pont des Amours very much; it’s a little greener and lighter and easier for me to wear than the original. DSH Perfumes Rose Vert is another one I love – citrus, green leaves, some tree moss along with the roses. The first Ines de la Fressange is a happy champagne-brunch aldehydic peach-rose froth. And of course, I’d never be without L’Arte di Gucci; just a drop or two puts me in the thorny rose garden…

    I just received a sample of Clair de Matin (lovely name!) but haven’t had a chance to test it yet. April 10, 2011 at 9:17pm Reply

  • Torque Wrench: Rose Blanca..my personal choice,alluring and elegant..must be the reason why I got married twice… April 10, 2011 at 10:05pm Reply

  • OperaFan: I love roses in perfume. I’ll even layer a rose on top of other rose-themed fragrances just to pump up the volume of the rose! But when I think of a “rose” scent, I prefer to smell a pure rose, which is why I my favorite for the last 15 years has been AG’s Rose Absolue. Runners up are her Ce Soir ou Jamais and Montale’s Highness Rose. I have yet to try Rose Splendide (perhaps that would also make the cut once I do).
    Can’t wait to try the new Guerlain AA Rose! April 11, 2011 at 9:31am Reply

  • angie Cox: I love the Paris flankers more than the original so I am waiting to find the new one. April 11, 2011 at 1:19pm Reply

  • Victoria: Sounds great! I have not tried it yet, so onto my list it goes. Thank you. April 11, 2011 at 6:09pm Reply

  • Victoria: I love dark roses too, especially when there is plenty of sandalwood and patchouli to play up the sweet, luscious facets of the rose.

    Granted, I never lose my tuberose fever either! 🙂 April 11, 2011 at 6:11pm Reply

  • Victoria: I look forward to your review of Clair de Matin. It sounds quite lovely, and I am always ready to smell anything new from Parfums de Rosine.

    Rose d’Ete was also one of my first niche purchases (L’Artisan La Chasse Aux Papillon was definitely the first one.) I love that combination of citrus, juicy fruit and honeyed roses. So alluring!

    L’Arte di Gucci is the ultimate “red lipstick” and “red rose” perfume for me. A femme fatale fragrance! April 11, 2011 at 6:12pm Reply

  • Victoria: 🙂 April 11, 2011 at 6:13pm Reply

  • Victoria: I think that you might enjoy Rose Splendide as well. It is not as rich as Rose Absolue, but quite excellent too.

    On same note, I love Annick Goutal Splendide skin care line. Not only is it excellent, the rose perfume is great (and I generally avoid scented skincare.) April 11, 2011 at 6:14pm Reply

  • Victoria: Some of them are much better than the original in its post-reformulation state. April 11, 2011 at 6:15pm Reply

  • OperaFan: Indeed – I’ve been wanting to try AG’s skincare products for a while but other brands kept getting in the way. Must rectify soon.
    I actually enjoy scented skincare products from companies like Darphin, Nuxe, and the like. None of them smell of roses, though…
    a:) April 11, 2011 at 9:45pm Reply

  • Victoria: I tried first a little sample and then I splurged on a whole jar. I have normal skin, which tends to be sensitive at times, and the whole line worked for me. April 11, 2011 at 11:01pm Reply

  • Dain: PdE Eau Sauve! There’s a hint of fresh breeze in it that doesn’t go stuffy like so many roses, and lifts it from the rosewater category. I am so glad you are blogging again, Victoria. April 13, 2011 at 3:05am Reply

  • Victoria: Dain, thank you! I also love your suggestion of PdE Eau Suave, which is an excellent, velvety rose. I just revisited it recently and enjoyed it very much. April 13, 2011 at 12:46pm Reply

  • karin: Hey V! Happy to send you some – email your address to me at krnszn at gmail dot com. April 22, 2011 at 2:37pm Reply

  • Victoria: Karin, thank you for your generous offer. I already have a sample on the way, so I look forward to trying it soon. April 22, 2011 at 6:18pm Reply

  • mondaylurker: I have been finding my pre-spring in delrae’s Coup de Foudre – i love the freshness of it May 9, 2011 at 4:50pm Reply

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