Caron Delire de Roses : Fragrance Review

11111

Delir

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Caron continues to regale us with conventional fragrances, stubbornly clinging to the idea that this is what modern consumers want. While Caron promises that “Délire de Roses presents the Queen of Flowers in an infinite variety of moods – audacious, tender, teasing, dreamy, provocative,” I only find that it captured rose in a conventional manner. The bland fruity top, the generic musky drydown and the nonexistent character… I think I have just described the majority of today’s launches. Why does Caron think that theirs might stand out in this crowd?

Délire de Roses is so painfully familiar and so run of the mill that I cannot even figure out what fragrance it resembles. The tart red berry and rose motif that it uses has trickled down from Yves Saint In Love Again and Baby Doll to every pink-tinted summer flanker. The fruity top note introduces the rose heart. It is citrusy, metallic, with a watery, fresh character. As Délire de Roses dries down, the rose loses its initial sharpness, but the zesty, acidic fruit keeps it bright and crisp. This continues for hours, and even in the late drydown of the laundry type musk, the same fruity rose theme persists.

I complain so much about Caron’s latest flops because I believe that the house has merit and that its perfumer has talent. Caron’s remarkable portfolio and unique history give it an interesting advantage. I am not a marketing specialist, of course, and I am even less of an accountant, but I know the value of a great concept for a fragrance launch. Caron’s heritage provides ample opportunity to explore original concepts. Why they fail to do so is beyond my comprehension.

Caron Délire de Roses Eau de Parfum includes notes of jasmine, lily of the valley, lychee, lotus flower and rose. Available from Caron boutiques and some Saks5thAvenue stores.

Sample: my own acquisition

Enjoyed this? Get blog posts via email:

Or, stay updated via:

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • RSS

18 Comments

  • May: wow! what an accurate review! thank you so much!
    have tried Délir de Rose too and was disappointed into “speechlessness”, I couldn’t put it down in words. The only thing I would do was to turn around and walk away from the shop quickly… December 8, 2011 at 5:33am Reply

  • columbine: if i may: it’s “Délire de roses”…it’s a pity that such an elegant house has become more about package than about content. last time i passed their St-Honoré shop, it looked actually more kitsch than elegant. i think it appeals to those who like old classical luxury but may not necessarily have an astute nose. December 8, 2011 at 5:35am Reply

  • Carnation Lover: As it happens, I love Delire De Roses, it has a refreshing lychee note to it. I wore it all last holiday as my summer fragrance, something light and uncomplicated to spritz.

    Is it a masterpiece? Perhaps not, but it’s a treat to wear when it’s warm. I would give it 3/4 starts ie. good or very good! December 8, 2011 at 5:45am Reply

  • nstephens@beachcroft.com: I am not a fan of perfumes with a dominant rose note so I was never going to pick this up but thanks for the warning anyway! Your review sent me to your post about reformulated Carons which, apart from the wonderful masculines, makes sad reading. Who is Caron’s perfumer? Is it Richard Fraysse?
    Nicola December 8, 2011 at 7:19am Reply

  • Suzanna: Comment

    Suzanna
    I bought and then swapped off a bottle of this after I found I wasn’t wearing it and was instead using two summery Rosines instead. Delir has a very “modern” feel to it, and I say this with the negative connotation that takes into account today’s general lack of innovation or creativity, ample use of overused themes, and ho-hum fusion of flower and fruit. There was nothing about it that said “Caron” and it was indistinguishable from any number of things in the mass market.

    Essentially, the problem seemed to be that Caron wanted to cut into the lucrative teen/young adult market, without being part of the mass market. Caron’s long history and fascinating foothold in perfumery means nothing to that market; nor would the customers in this market segment seek out Caron (mention Caron to someone in this age group and you will likely get a blank stare). Caron cannot go head to head with Justin Bieber, or Britney Spears and yet they engineered a fragrance to do just that. It was then sold, tastefully, at Saks, with great discretion as befits the house. The product and the promo didn’t match. December 8, 2011 at 8:00am Reply

  • Victoria: I was also disappointed, because rose is Caron’s classical note. It could have been done in a modern manner, but something much more interesting than this. December 8, 2011 at 9:27am Reply

  • Victoria: I keep thinking of it as “Délit” (crime, which it is!) rather than Délire (delirium.) 🙂 December 8, 2011 at 9:29am Reply

  • Victoria: Have you smelled Bulgari Rose Essentielle? I revisited it at Sephora recently, and I found it very bright and pretty. It is not as fruity as Delire though. December 8, 2011 at 9:31am Reply

  • Victoria: He is their current perfumer. I liked Caron’s take on tuberose, which was a bold, rich floral. Their Rose solifloral, on the other hand, was not that interesting. December 8, 2011 at 9:33am Reply

  • Victoria: Exactly! You’ve summed it up well.
    I do not mind classical houses coming up with modern fragrances. On the contrary, I think that it is essential for both economic survival and artistic development. On the other hand, derivative, forgettable fragrances irritate me. So, I am sorry for ranting! 🙂 December 8, 2011 at 9:36am Reply

  • Austenfan: Funny you should be reviewing a rose fragrance this day, as I am wearing Une Rose Poivrée today. Which is modern and ( in my humble opinion) far from dull.
    I don’t share your knowledge of the Carons, but can appreciate your irritation. It always hurts when greatness gets lost. December 8, 2011 at 11:34am Reply

  • Victoria: Rose Poivrée, Stella MacCartney, Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady are some of the interesting modern roses in different registers. Stella, in particular, is one of my favorites–a bright, shimmering rose that is easy to like, yet with some unusual elements that make it interesting. December 8, 2011 at 1:50pm Reply

  • violetnoir: What about the new Caron Accord 119, V? Will you review that?

    Hugs! December 8, 2011 at 4:07pm Reply

  • Victoria: I didn't sample it properly yet, but I will definitely write about it! December 8, 2011 at 4:38pm Reply

  • Lynn Morgan: I wish perfumers would put as much effort and thought into the actual “juice” as they do into the provocative names! When I first saw the title “Delire de Roses”my mouth started to water and my imagination went into overdrive imagining a veritable Petit Trianon of a scent, lush, overgrown, decadent and languidly sexy, like a rose garden in a sultry afternoon. This sounds wan, predictable and plebeian. Tea Rose, anyone? And, actually, I kind of like Tea Rose. But I have been mislead all too often by scents with high concept names like “Vendetta” or “Symphonie Des Roses” that were nowhere near as exciting as their names.Valentino was a major offender.He never created or put his name to a perfume even as remotely glorious as his clothes!Ps do not ever apologize for a rant, VIctoria! We love the passion! December 8, 2011 at 6:16pm Reply

  • Madelyn E: Victoria, one star rating ? That is akin to being in danger of failing.
    I agree with the succinct analyis of Suzanna . Sad.
    Caron classics , Narcisse Noir, Nuir De Noel, Bellodgida , Parfum Sacre .. they all have such depth and character as a elegant woman’s scent.
    V, maybe you could offer your services as a perfume marketer to Caron.
    They and we , the consumers , could surely benefit . December 9, 2011 at 9:51am Reply

  • Victoria: Hmm, not sure that I would want that job! 🙂 December 9, 2011 at 10:28am Reply

  • Victoria: That's the fault of marketing, rather than the perfumers, but I completely agree. I will take Tea Rose over this any day. December 9, 2011 at 3:20pm Reply

What do you think?

From the Archives

Latest Comments

Latest Tweets

Design by cre8d
© Copyright 2005-2016 Bois de Jasmin. All rights reserved.