Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
Ormonde Jayne is a small brand with one of the most solid fragrance collections on the market. The fragrances have a distinctive character, whether effervescent florals like Sampaquita or voluptuous orientals like Tolu. There is enough diversity to make the range fun to explore, and the quality is invariably impressive. That being said, I am not that fond of the latest fragrance, Tiare. While pretty and elegant, it lives in the same universe as Chanel Cristalle—a crisp, champagne-like floral.
Cristalle, of course, is a great model to follow. The exuberance of green leaves and bergamot peel in the top notes is contrasted with languid floral accords. Like other Ormonde Jayne florals, Tiare is luminous and transparent, while nevertheless retaining a plush, rich impression. The peach and coconut of tiare is made sensual with indolic jasmine and ylang ylang. This high-volume accord might have been overwhelming, if it were not for the rooty chill of iris, which makes the composition impeccably polished. The woody accord provides an elegant backdrop for Tiare, and the interesting suave, yet dry finish will be familiar to fans of Ormonde Jayne.
As I have been wearing Tiare on and off, I started to wish for something more than just an impression of Cristalle. Cristalle has served as an inspiration for plenty of fragrances, with the relatively recent Estée Lauder Jasmine White Moss and A Scent by Issey Miyake getting on the bandwagon as well. If Tiare had improved on Cristalle somehow, I would have felt differently, but as it is, it does not rival Champaca nor Taif, both in terms of originality and character.
Ormonde Jayne Tiare includes notes of mandarin, orange flower, lime, tiare (Tahitian gardenia), freesia, water lily, jasmine, iris, ylang ylang, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, moss and musk. Available directly from Ormonde Jayne. Sold as 50 ml Eau de Parfum (£68,) a set of four 10 ml travel sprays (£54) or 50 ml Parfum (£180).
Sample: Ormonde Jayne