Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
Whenever I am given a bouquet of roses, I instinctively lean in to smell them. What a disappointment! Most roses are bred to be completely scentless, and the only fragrance that clings to them is that of green foliage and wrapping paper. Being deprived of perfumed roses, I have a sentimental fondness for tea rose scents that remind me of freshly cut flowers. My most recent contender for a pretty English rose is Diptyque Eau Rose, a composition so uncluttered and straightforward that it manages to succeed where many rich blends fail.
At first glance, Eau Rose does not appear to be exciting—it is a bright rose etude painted in pastel colors. What quickly becomes apparent is that it retains this effervescent, uplifting character throughout its development. The fragrance does not have any metallic sharpness that sometimes accompanies fresh rose notes, nor does Eau Rose veer into a powdery direction. It hums the same happy tune, but it sings well.
Eau Rose opens up on the zesty notes of lemon and bergamot, with the bright accent of crushed leaves. This lemon tea effect soon fizzles out and gives way to an airy rose impression. The first time I smelled Eau Rose, it reminded me of my favorite pick me up trick—spraying my face with plain rosewater. Unlike rosewater, however, Eau Rose has decent lasting power and a good sillage. The drydown of musk and blond woods takes a while to reach, but it is so predictable that I do not regret having the rose linger longer on my skin.
Although I like Eau Rose very much, it is not a masterpiece of rose perfumery. Unlike Diptyque’s other rose, L’Ombre Dans L’Eau, it is less original and memorable. On the other hand, those who like fresh delicate rose blends will find it compelling for delivering what it promises—the impression of holding a bouquet of fragrant pink roses. I do not know about you, but these days I rarely get to enjoy such a treat.
Diptyque Eau Rose includes notes of bergamot, blackcurrant, rose, musk, cedarwood, and honey. It is available at Aedes, Saks5th Avenue Barneys and other retailers carrying Diptyque. Eau Rose is available as Eau de Toilette in 20 ml roll-on ($48) and 100 ml spray ($98). Diptyque also launched a limited edition matching Rosa Mundi candle (6.5oz/$68.00.)
Sample: my own acquisition
Photography by Vera Klokova