The intense green of sun warmed tomato leaves, the salty taste of red fruit, the bitter pungency of black currant buds… On my wrist was the smell of my fantasy summer, long walks in the park and lounging on the grass included. When I reached for the new Eau de Parfum formulation of Diptyque L’Ombre Dans L’Eau, I didn’t expect it to be dramatically different from the original L’Ombre Dans L’Eau. Much to my surprise, it was!
The fragrance was so exhilarating and vivid that a single whiff won me over. I stepped out into the grey afternoon holding the perfume box wrapped in thin, crackly paper. It might have been raining, but as I pressed my nose to my wrist and inhaled the perfume of crushed leaves and earthy roses, I didn’t even notice.
I rarely purchase perfume on the spot, so at first I was worried that my impulsive purchase of L’Ombre Dans L’Eau was just a momentary fancy. As I’ve been wearing it almost daily over the past couple of weeks, I knew that this is in fact true love. Compared to the EDT, the EDP is richer and denser. The green notes that in the EDT are the delicate buds of spring; in the EDP they are the dark green leaves of late summer, smelling of dust and rain drops. This kind of heavy green note would have been unbearably rough if it were not wrapped in the honeyed sweetness of rose.
The licorice darkness of myrrh and amber gives the drydown of the EDP a seductive accent, which is such an unexpected contrast to the sparkling top notes. It’s a perfume to wear from morning to evening, and its lasting power is good enough to sustain your scented aura for the whole day. If you loved the original EDT, you will find the EDP a more dramatic and intense experience. But it also retains the wistful, dream-like quality that makes this Diptyque fragrance such a marvel.
Encouraged by my success with L’Ombre Dans L’Eau, I tried the EDP versions of Philosykos and Do Son. I found the EDTs interesting, but too linear and one-dimensional. Unlike with L’Ombre Dans L’Eau, these EDP concentrations change the accents, but don’t add more lines to the story. Do Son feels creamier and warmer, an etude of white petals soaked in coconut milk. Philosykos, on other hand, starts out green and fresh, only to become sappy and woody. If you love the fig leaf coyness of the EDT, you’ll find the EDP similarly charming. However, I miss the transparency and crystalline freshness in the new take. As I wear the EDP, I realize that those were the traits that made Philosykos appealing.
Of course, the Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum and Extrait de Parfum appellations don’t mean much, because sometimes the EDT can contain a higher percentage of fragrance oil than the EDP. Nevertheless, comparing different concentrations of the Diptyque perfumes once again made me realize how much difference even a small change can make. A richer floral note, a juicier orange, a thicker layer musk, and the fragrance has a new completely character. No wonder the reformulations are so fiendishly complicated.
Do you have any perfume that you prefer in one concentration over another (EDT, EDP, parfum)?