Atelier Cologne Silver Iris : Fragrance Review

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Patricia compares Atelier Cologne Silver Iris to several other iris perfumes.

Iris perfumes, the little black dress of fragrances, seem to be appropriate for all occasions and all seasons. Got a job interview? Grab an iris perfume. Going out for dinner and can’t decide which perfume to wear? An iris has got you covered.

silver-iris

That said, there is much variety within the iris family of fragrances, and Atelier Cologne’s Silver Iris is a prime example. For starters, like all the Atelier Absolues, it has a higher than usual concentration of perfume oil, in this case 18 percent, which gives it richness and longevity. It is one of two perfumes created by Jérome Epinette for Atelier’s Collection Métal, the other being Gold Leather, which I have not yet sampled.

From the delicious bright opening dominated by green tangerine and tempered by pink pepper, to the soft and cozy drydown of patchouli, musk, and tonka bean, this iris is a winner. The tart tangerine makes my mouth water, while the sensual, velvety finish feels like a warm embrace. The “silver” in this iris isn’t a dry, austere, and static metal. Instead, it resembles the bright, sparkling silver reflections on water, a serene and peaceful image.

Serene is also a good way to describe the aura of Silver Iris. It wafts gently for hours without being overpowering, and I catch myself surreptitiously sniffing at my wrists throughout the day. Beautifully constructed, the balance of ingredients keeps me interested right through to the dry down, which is warm and enveloping and smells like crushed peppercorns and suede. At this final stage perfume wears very close to the skin, but to my delight seems to go on forever.

Sillage is very good, and longevity is excellent. It is not overly sweet and would be a good fragrance for either a man or a woman. Although it seems particularly well-suited for fall, it could be worn in any season except perhaps the dog days of summer.

Its name alone begs a comparison with Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, which I find to be a colder and more abstract interpretation of the iris. Thinking Silver Iris might have more in common with Parfumerie Generale’s Oriental Iris (formerly Iris Taizo), I give that one a try. It opens with a similar bright note produced by fig, vanilla, and iris, but then morphs into something much spicier, and in the end, less complex. The two Pradas, Infusion d’Iris and Infusion d’Iris Absolue, are more powdery, less modern, and not as complex.

After deciding that Silver Iris doesn’t duplicate anything in my collection, I promptly bought it (a decant, since Atelier colognes do not come cheap). After all, a woman needs more than one little black dress in her wardrobe, doesn’t she?

Atelier Cologne Silver Iris includes  notes of tangerine, pink pepper, black current, mimosa, violet leaf, iris, patchouli, white amber, musk, tonka bean. Available at Sephora, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Luckyscent, ateliercologne.com.

What is your favorite iris fragrance, and when do you like to wear it?

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103 Comments

  • Andy: I am eager to try Silver Iris. I sampled the entire Atelier collection this summer, and found that I really liked most of the perfumes in their lineup. Bois Blonds was the only one I found to be boring (though perfectly nice otherwise).That being said, the only thing I don’t like about this new Collection Métal is the much higher prices. I hope that doesn’t become a trend within the brand. September 27, 2013 at 7:19am Reply

    • Patricia: Hi Andy, I think that you will like Silver Iris very much (in spite of the higher price). If I go through my decant quickly, I may just have to bite the bullet and spring for the FB 🙂 September 27, 2013 at 11:08am Reply

      • Andy: I love iris notes so much, so I’m sure whatever it smells like, I’ll appreciate Silver Iris. And in terms of the price, I’ve always thought it was nice how they offer their perfumes in the 30mL sizes. Except if it’s a perfume I really, really love, I never need more than that much at one time anyway. September 27, 2013 at 1:45pm Reply

        • Patricia: Yes, I too really appreciate the perfume companies such as Atelier and Patricia de Nicolai who offer the 30 ml size. It is also a nice size to travel with. September 27, 2013 at 5:54pm Reply

    • Lucas: Andy, I’m sure you’ll enjoy Silver Iris. I love it!

      The prices of Collection Metal are higher because the bottles are covered with genuine silver and gold. September 27, 2013 at 11:27am Reply

      • Andy: I’ll have to give it a try. I was hoping samples of the Collection Métal would be offered on Atelier’s website (they are a bit larger than those from Luckyscent and a better deal too), but they haven’t shown up since I last checked. I’ll have to order a sample soon though.

        And pretty as those bottles are, I still wish they were in plain glass if that meant a lower price! 🙂 September 27, 2013 at 1:39pm Reply

  • Cornelia Blimber: Haha, I don’t know about black dresses, but I certainly need more than one iris!!
    I own: Shalimar L’Initial, always good. And Dior Homme and Homme Intense, makes me feel chic.
    On a bright day, with our Dutch wind in the air, I like ”Silences”. Or No. 19, but I spare my vintage 19. That’s for my birthday. Or Christmas.
    On a hot day, Fidji is perfect. I also have Iris Nobile, but to my nose this is more a rich bouquet than a real iris.
    Yes, and then Iris Silver Mist!! I would not call it cold or abstract. It begins warm, earthy, reminding also of carrot. As time goes by, it becomes airy, silvery. This perfume is really heaven and earth. And the very last drydown reminds me of something I cannot place., a bit flowery, resembling Climat? Some generous person gave me a sample, but as soon as I can afford it I will buy a full bottle.
    Another Lutens is Bas de Soie. That one is really metallic! but I find these frosted flowes fascinating. Not easy to wear tough.
    As an Iris lover, I appreciated your article very much. September 27, 2013 at 7:38am Reply

    • Jillie: I do love Silences and No 19 too! Have you tried Annick Goutal’s Heure Exquise, which is very similar to No 19, but warmer and rounder? September 27, 2013 at 8:25am Reply

      • Cornelia Blimber: No, I don’t, but certainly will! thank you, Jillie. September 27, 2013 at 9:25am Reply

        • Jillie: It’s not green, green, green like Silences, which sometimes knocks me out (nicely!) with its forest notes. It’s a smooth iris and is definitely No 19’s more sedate, womanly sister. September 27, 2013 at 10:51am Reply

    • Patricia: Hi Cornelia, What a lovely collection of irises you have! Including some I haven’t tried yet and will put on my ever-expanding “to try” list. I love both No. 19 and Heure Exquise, but overall find myself reaching for No. 19 more often as its crisp ethereal quality seems more original to me. September 27, 2013 at 11:14am Reply

  • Aisha: I enjoyed wearing Prada’s Infusion d’Iris this past Spring (well, Spring where I live didn’t really start until May). The slight powdery scent felt right for the season.

    I do like the colognes from Atelier (Orange Sanguine being my favorite), and I am interested in getting a sample of this one. I, too, wish their fragrances weren’t so darn expensive. :-/ September 27, 2013 at 7:59am Reply

    • Patricia: Aisha, Have you tried the Infusion d’Iris Absolue? That is another lovely one, and I find it richer and more intense than the original.
      Yes, do try to sample the Silver Iris. Now, I’m curious about the Gold Leather, though those who have tried it seem to prefer the SI. September 27, 2013 at 11:24am Reply

      • Aisha: I just ordered a sample of the Silver Iris. I’m looking forward to trying it out. I didn’t order the Gold Leather, however, because I reached my monthly spending limit after also ordering a small decant of Cuir de Russie. 🙂 September 29, 2013 at 8:37am Reply

        • Patricia: I haven’t ordered the Gold Leather yet, either, as I have done a lot of perfume buying lately and need to take a break! September 29, 2013 at 3:19pm Reply

          • Aisha: I just got my sample of Silver Iris in the mail yesterday and am wearing it today. Oh my word! This is fast becoming my favorite Atelier cologne. I didn’t like it very much when I first put it on (not sure what the note was that initially put me off), but then it started changing in to something soft and powdery on me, with just a hint of spice. It might be worth getting a decant of this eventually…. October 8, 2013 at 9:23am Reply

          • Aisha: The powder just settled, and now the spice is shining through. I LOVE THIS! October 8, 2013 at 9:29am Reply

            • Patricia: Hi Aisha, I’m so glad that you love it, too! October 9, 2013 at 5:39pm Reply

  • Jillie: What a beautiful description of its serenity – that is so appealing.

    And of course you can never have too many little black dresses or bottles of perfume! September 27, 2013 at 8:29am Reply

    • Patricia: Thank you, Jillie! And I dare not even think about my black dress to perfume ratio! Though black dresses are useful in a wardrobe, iris perfumes are essential to a rounded perfume collection. September 27, 2013 at 11:26am Reply

  • Sabine: Lovely post, and timely too, as I’m waiting for a delivery of some samples, amongst them the Silver iris and Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena. I am looking forward to compare them. September 27, 2013 at 11:06am Reply

    • Patricia: Please let me know what you think of them, Sabine! It’s such fun to compare similar fragrances from different houses. September 27, 2013 at 11:28am Reply

      • Sabine: Great. Got an email from ausliebezumduft saying the Nazarena is not available and asking me for a replacement. I will take note of all the comments. September 27, 2013 at 1:56pm Reply

  • Lucas: Great review Patricia!
    It was really nice to read your take on Atelier Cologne Silver Iris.
    I reviewed this perfume (as well as Gold Leather) as Atelier Cologne kindly sent me the samples to try both fragrances in Collection Metal.
    I immediately fell in love with the iris, and tomorrow I’ll be buying the Ecrin Absolue coffret of Silver Iris. I’m so excited! September 27, 2013 at 11:22am Reply

    • Patricia: Thank you, Lucas! I’ll have to pop over to your site to read your take on Silver Iris. Glad to hear that you liked it, too. The coffret sounds delightful, and you are sure to enjoy it. September 27, 2013 at 11:30am Reply

  • george: Funnily enough I spent a morning smelling a few perfumes new to me- Chant D’aromes, Avignon, AGoutal Vetiver. But my big excitement was finding Iris Silver Mist on a shelf, as it has- to my knowledge- not been available in London before, and it was the one that most held my attention. It reminded me of punk and purple rinses- like being headbutted by a granny- Edvard Munch’s The Scream, Yoko Ono, and big thistle heads. So I was really pleased to see a review on Boisdejasmin today of another iris fragrance, only when its opening gambit is that iris perfumes are like little black dresses, I don’t really think I could disagree more. Plus I wouldn’t really describe it as a particularly abstract interpretation of iris; it seems more iris to the nth degree, or iris amplified and distorted, but definitely, definitely using as its central reference the smell of iris. I also think of prada’s infusion d’iris perfumes as being very modern, so am a bit suspicious of something being described as more modern that these. I look forward to trying Atelier Cologne Silver Mist, to see where this stands relative to these other perfumes. However, I am also feeling that maybe I am really not on the same wavelength as this review. I should probably blame ISM for putting me in SUCH an argumentative place. September 27, 2013 at 11:25am Reply

    • Patricia: George, I enjoy hearing differing opinions and laughed out loud at your description of Iris Silver Mist as being headbutted by a granny!
      Can’t wait to hear your opinion of Atelier Silver Mist. Please let us know once you try it. 🙂 September 27, 2013 at 11:34am Reply

    • Cornelia Blimber: Ah, Iris Silver Mist! I also protested against ”cold and abstract”, but as a whole I consider Patricia’s text is well written. I think you are upset by this ”cold and abstract” because you came to discover this fabulous perfume. Smelling this for the first time really is an experience! It has so many aspects, so many colours. September 27, 2013 at 11:47am Reply

    • rainboweyes: On my skin, only the opening of ISM is cold – “lightning in a bottle” as somebody described it – but after half an hour it becomes very creamy with a peppery undertone. To me, definitely a perfect autumn scent. September 27, 2013 at 12:49pm Reply

      • Cornelia Blimber: Interesting, how different a perfume can be from skin to skin! September 27, 2013 at 12:58pm Reply

    • Anne of Green Gables: Hi george, could you please tell me where you sampled Iris Silver Mist in London? I thought that ISM is part of the exclusive collection and only available at Palais Royal in Paris. I’m curious because I’m going to London next week. September 27, 2013 at 4:53pm Reply

      • george: Yeah, sure. It was at House of Fraser Oxford Street. They also had fourreau noir. Both were being sold in the handbag sprays. Like this- http://www.liberty.co.uk/fcp/product/Liberty//Iris-Silver-Mist-Eau-de-Parfum-Set/93858
        This is from the liberty site; I also went there, but they didn’t have it on display or in stock, but I guess that as it is on there website they might well be getting it in. I didn’t try FN, but- as you can probably guess- I found trying ISM an exciting experience. September 27, 2013 at 5:22pm Reply

        • Bela: This is very puzzling since, as far as we know (according to the Salons’ website and press releases) the Vaporisateur Tout Noir (that handbag spray) only comes filled with Féminité du Bois and Ambre Sultan, and the Exclusives are not on sale in Europe outside of the Salons in Paris (although they’ve just started being stocked by Printemps Haussmann). September 27, 2013 at 9:19pm Reply

          • george: Liberty has occasionally had exclusives available in the export bottles: it had and still sells Bois de Violette, for example (though the SL website does not sell BDV in the export bottles). Tubereuse Criminelle is also both an exclusive and available in the export bottles. I’m not sure there is any hard and fast rule or that the forms of sale on the website are draconially imposed elsewhere. Still, I know what I’ve seen and- more importantly- what I’ve smelled. Plus the Liberty website does now have ISM in stock. Since the distribution of SL fragrances has increased in Britain, maybe this is a Christmas giftbox type promotion. September 28, 2013 at 6:22am Reply

            • Anne of Green Gables: Thanks for the info, george! I wanted to try Bois de Violette in its liquid form so I should go to Liberty while I’m in London. September 28, 2013 at 2:01pm Reply

          • hajusuuri: Printemps Haussman had a very limited selection of the Bell Jars…I think the ones they had were the ones also available in the skinny 50 mL bottles. September 30, 2013 at 10:07pm Reply

  • Sapphire: Got some 28 La Pausa recently in a swap. Loving it, but it doesn’t last too long. Can anyone compare Silver Iris? September 27, 2013 at 11:37am Reply

    • Lucas: Hi Sapphire!
      I love 28 La Pausa but I also have longevity issues with it.

      As to comparison, iris from Chanel is more rooty and buttery, while Silver Iris from Atelier Cologne is more ethereal, pale, it doesn’t have the earthy or buttery feeling.

      That’s my opinion. September 27, 2013 at 11:44am Reply

    • rainboweyes: I second Lucas’ opinion. These two are completely different. La Pausa is much greener and has a slightly earthy note, Silver Iris is definitely sweeter, I can find a remote similarity to HdP Moulin Rouge or AP Traversée du Bosphore. September 27, 2013 at 12:43pm Reply

  • rainboweyes: I’m an absolute iris lover too, just like Cornelia, I own an iris scent for every mood and occasion.
    At the moment, Bois d’Iris (VC&A) and Lumière Blanche get a lot of wearing (both perfect on sunny autumn days), then of course the beautiful Cuir de Nacré, Iris de Nuit, 31 Rue Cambon, AP Mon Numero 8, Iris Pallida and Equistrius. And of course, Iris Silver Mist – my absolute autumn favourite.

    In the winter, I’m usually monogamous – Dzongkha is the one and only scent I wear for weeks or even months. However, when I’m finally fed up with grey, cold weather, I switch to more floral irises: DelRae Panache, Jovoy Rouge Assassin, Bas de Soie and Perles de Lalique are my typical end-of-winter scents.

    As soon as the weather becomes warmer again, I start reaching out for greener irises – Hiris and 28 La Pausa are my top spring scents.
    In the summer, the choices become more narrow – somehow I have difficulties finding the perfect summer iris – Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris and IUNX Eau Blanche are the only two scents I wear when the temperatures rise. Oh, and Lumière Blanche which is great on hot summer days as well! On balmy evenings I either layer it with Dzongkha for more impact or wear Traversée du Bosphore.

    Well, that’s it – except for the to-buy list which includes L’Heure Exquise for next spring, Eau de Gentiane Blanche or Sel de Vetiver for summer, Iris Nazarena for autumn and OJ Orris Noir for next winter.

    By the way, has any of you, iris friends had the opportunity to test the Fragrance Republic No. 1 scent by Natalie Feisthauer? The notes sound so promising…

    But back to the new Silver Iris: I was actually quite shocked as I smelled it for the first time. Somehow I didn’t pay much attention to the notes and apparently being misled by the name, I was expecting something similar to ISM. Well, obviously I was wrong… I almost categorized it as a “scent you don’t need” – much too gourmand and sweet – but as the days have become cooler I’ve started to appreciate its sparking metallic feel and the slightly gourmand drydown. I guess it will end up as a competitor to Iris Nazarena on my to-buy list for next autumn 🙂 September 27, 2013 at 12:36pm Reply

    • maja: Wow! Your iris collection is impressive. 🙂 Reminds me that I really have to try Dzongkha… September 27, 2013 at 5:45pm Reply

    • Patricia: Rainboweyes, I bow before your iris collection. It is truly amazing.
      I’ve made a note to myself to retry Dzongkha. I haven’t given it enough time to really form an opinion one way or the other. September 27, 2013 at 6:07pm Reply

    • Ariane: Very impressed with your iris collection!Recently I have fallen for two scents that in my opinion are a must try for every iris lover:Wienerblut Volkamaria and Ormonde Jayne Tsarina. October 1, 2013 at 10:05am Reply

      • rainboweyes: Thank you, Ariane, I’ve noted them down! October 1, 2013 at 10:29am Reply

  • Anka: It’s so sad, I wanted to like this one since I am very much into Iris and love a lot of others from Atelier Cologne (Orange Sanguine, Rose Anonym, Vanille Insensee…) – but I can’t.
    I smell something medicinal, antiseptic which ruins the tangerine-iris-combination for my nose. Maybe it’s too much ISO e Super?
    My second black dress might be Heeley’s Iris de Nuit… September 27, 2013 at 12:46pm Reply

    • Patricia: Can anyone help regarding what might be causing the medicinal, antiseptic smell Anka is getting from Silver Iris? September 27, 2013 at 6:20pm Reply

  • nikki: Great article, Patricia! I also want to thank you for suggesting the flower book about the industry, so interesting!

    Iris is lovely, its dryness always reminds me of vetyver. which I prefer. I would like an Iris/Vetyver perfume… September 27, 2013 at 1:10pm Reply

    • Cornelia Blimber: Do you know Iris Silver Mist? The initial note is (on me at last) very earthy (to my nose: iris, carrot..) and perhaps there is vetiver in it: just click on the website from George’s comment. They say there is vetiver in ISM. September 27, 2013 at 5:38pm Reply

    • Patricia: Thank you, Nikki! And I’m glad that you enjoyed Flower Confidential. I knew nothing about the flower industry before I read it. September 27, 2013 at 6:22pm Reply

  • Jennifer C: I tried Silver Iris a couple weeks ago, and I liked it. At first I picked up a woody note that was a little scratchy to my nose, but I got over it. I tried Gold Leather at the same time, and the leather is probably more my style, but I enjoyed them both.

    Iris is a note that I thought I didn’t like for a while because I didn’t like Dzongkha (it was soapy on me). But I have since discovered that I was wrong. I love Chanel No.19 and Bas de Soie, and I really like Iris Silver Mist as well. I just got a sample of PdE Equistrius, and so far I like it, but I haven’t given it a full wearing yet. Same for my sample of TDC Bois d’Iris. I haven’t tried Iris Nazarena yet. September 27, 2013 at 2:59pm Reply

    • Patricia: Hi Jennifer, It sounds as if the charms of iris fragrances are gradually winning you over :).
      You might also like Prada Infusion d’Iris and Infusion d’Iris Absolue. They are both very wearable, but the Absolue is more intense and my favorite of the two. September 27, 2013 at 6:27pm Reply

  • minette: irisia may well be my favorite iris scent, although 31 rue cambon and iris poudre are right up there. they all have such presence.

    i actually feel about rose the way you do about iris – the little black dress. September 27, 2013 at 3:14pm Reply

    • Patricia: Minette, I’m also quite fond of rose perfumes and recently bought a bottle of La Fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens, my current favorite. September 27, 2013 at 6:30pm Reply

    • Ariane: Oh,31RC and iris poudre are among my favourites as well,so I will look out for Irisia! October 1, 2013 at 10:07am Reply

  • Anne of Green Gables: I wish I could share the love of iris with everyone but unfortunately, iris is one of the notes I’m having a difficult relationship with. I quite enjoy it in Chanel No. 19 but I have a real difficulty seeing the beauty of Iris Silver Mist that everyone praises. I’ve only tried the wax sample so my opinion may change when I sample the liquid perfume. It just smells really sharp and waxy which I find rather unpleasant. To be honest, it reminds me of the wax that was used for polishing wooden floors in my old school. Has anyone had a problem with iris note but managed to ‘overcome’ it? September 27, 2013 at 4:47pm Reply

    • Hannah: I think some notes just aren’t for everyone. Whenever I try a tuberose perfume, all I can think is “people actually love this?” I thought maybe I just don’t like Fracas, but after Carnal Flower, Beyond Love, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Tubereuse, Nuit de Tubereuse, La Chasse Aux Papillons, and others that I haven’t bothered to take note of the name, I think I can say that I just don’t like it. I’ve noticed a lot of people trying to overcome notes that they don’t like, and they’re usually things like rose, tuberose, iris. But I never see anyone trying to overcome notes like cumin, and many people wrote off Alexander McQueen Kingdom completely because they just can not do cumin (which I think is really sad).

      I enjoy iris as a note, but I have a hard time finding iris perfumes that feel like *me*. I think the iris in Cuir Ottoman is pretty distinct so that would be my favorite iris. I’d also like to try Cuir d’Iris by Parfumerie Generale. I like The Different Company Bois d’Iris, but it is way too light. September 27, 2013 at 5:04pm Reply

      • Patricia: Hannah, You are so right. I’m not overly fond of vetiver, and fragrances that contain it in large amounts can be problematic for me. Sometimes no matter how much you try to love a particular note or fragrance, it’s just not for you. September 27, 2013 at 6:54pm Reply

      • Anne of Green Gables: Hi Hannah, I used to dislike tuberose (my first encounter in Dior Poison) but over time, I got used to it and now I appreciate it although it’s still not my favourite note. I didn’t have a problem with cumin until I heard someone describing it as armpit odour. Since then it’s been bothering me a little. I wish I never heard that description.

        I don’t plan to force myself to like notes which are perhaps not supposed to be for me but from my previous experience, I know that there’s a possibility that my perception may change. Since I don’t have problems with some iris perfumes, I think I may have a problem with certain facets of iris note (e.g. waxy). So I’ll keep trying different iris perfumes mentioned in this post. If I’m lucky, I may overcome it as I did for tuberose. September 28, 2013 at 1:52pm Reply

        • Hannah: I don’t think you should avoid perfumes because of a note (unless you react badly to it–now I avoid tuberose, oak moss, civet) so you should definitely try them. I’d like to try Tubéreuse Criminelle. When I first got into the perfume blogs, I was dying to try it. But now I know the likelihood of me liking it is very very slim. So you should try Iris Silver Mist, but if you don’t like it, you might not be “missing” anything. September 28, 2013 at 4:14pm Reply

  • Austenfan: Other than the name which I find a bit too similar to Lutens’ brilliant ISM, this sounds very lovely. I have tried a few in this line, and remember really enjoying Orange Sanguine. I have never purchased a bottle. Too many citruses in my collection already. September 27, 2013 at 5:01pm Reply

    • Patricia: Do try to sample this one, Austenfan. It is nothing like ISM, but is a standout among the Ateliers. September 27, 2013 at 7:03pm Reply

  • annemariec: I’ve sampled quite a few Ateliers and liked many but found that despite the promises of greater longevity than standard colognes, the Ateliers last poorly on my skin. The outstanding exception is Vanille Insensee, which lasts all day but which I find rather linear and dull.

    So as I read your review I was alert to these issues and very pleased to hear that both longevity and sillage are good. Perhaps I will give Atelier another go after all, as you make this one sound so lovely and interesting.

    The overall aim of the the line seems to be wearability without being boring and predictable. I wasn’t surprised to hear that Silver Iris sounds easier to wear than ISM (which I have not tried, but have noted its reputation). Vetiver Fatal is another example of wearability, in my view. I can wear it and go about my day without thinking ‘hell, vetiver!’ every five minutes. Sadly, I only get a couple of hours out of it. September 27, 2013 at 5:18pm Reply

    • Patricia: Annemariec, I found that Silver Iris excelled in both sillage and longevity. Give it a try and let us know what you think! September 27, 2013 at 7:08pm Reply

  • Cornelia Blimber: It’s a strange phenomenon that somebody can forget an absolute favorite: Hiris! On his own or layered with L’Heure Bleue. September 27, 2013 at 5:32pm Reply

    • Patricia: That layering combination sounds very interesting, Cornelia. I’ll have to give it a try! September 27, 2013 at 7:10pm Reply

    • rainboweyes: It hasn’t been forgotten! It’s one of the most frequently used scents in my rotation. I love it in spring, and last year, as we had this horrible, rainy non-summer in Germany I drained a 100ml bottle within two months.
      I love your layering suggestion with L’Heure Bleue, I’ll have to give it a try! September 28, 2013 at 5:04am Reply

    • Isis: I am so happy to see other lovers of Hiris! It was the first perfume I bought for myself, when I was about 19. Still adore it. September 28, 2013 at 6:22am Reply

      • rainboweyes: I had been wearing it as a signature scent for about ten years too, before I discovered the world of niche perfumery. Can’t imagine there were times when I used to own just ONE bottle of perfume at a time 😉 September 28, 2013 at 10:07am Reply

        • Patricia: I used to own 5-10 bottles of perfume at a time, and even that seems incredibly limited to me now! September 28, 2013 at 10:17am Reply

          • Isis: Still, I think back fondly of times when I had an actual signature scent. And I was really proud that my signature scent opened not with a burst of citrus or flowers, but with bright orange carrots. September 28, 2013 at 1:45pm Reply

            • Patricia: You certainly made a creative choice for your signature scent :). September 28, 2013 at 1:54pm Reply

  • constance: ummm,

    could you emote a bit on Lutens Bois de Violettes please? I read so many great reviews I ordered because I LOVE so much their ala Nuit sex bomb!

    Help me to understand violettes. It smells like a piano teacher to me. What could I mix with to make it a better experience?

    I love and wear Fracas, Molinard de Molinard (which is no more, I cried). I am still searching for more true personal “10’s” I liked Tatiana, the old Emuaraude brings back fond memories yet I remember “heavy smell” which I liked? Been a long time. Tom Ford Black Orchid worked. Prada’s first perfume…

    Can you help?

    Astonished thatiam Addicted Fan

    Connie Hill September 27, 2013 at 6:41pm Reply

    • Patricia: Hi Constance, My favorite violets are YSL Paris and Malle’s Lipstick Rose, both of which are violets mixed with rose. Perhaps you could try that classic combination.
      Good luck in your search for the violet that suits you, and let me know how you fare! September 28, 2013 at 8:46am Reply

    • rainboweyes: Although i mainly wear iris scents, I also have some violet decants which I use occasionally. My favourite ones are the already mentioned Lipstick Rose, Sous le toit de Paris (also by Atelier Cologne), Veloutine by Libertin Louison (it’s very fleeting on me, though) and Humiecki & Graef Geste. September 28, 2013 at 10:17am Reply

      • Patricia: Just thought of another violet fragrance that I like well enough to own a decant of: Balenciaga Paris. It is a violet/carnation scent with patchouli and is very feminine. It would make a lovely springtime choice. September 28, 2013 at 1:51pm Reply

  • Maren: Hi Patricia, thanks for the great review, you really got me with the “bright, sparkling silver reflections on water” reference. Being a fan of all things iris, I’m thinking this is going on the must sample list. One question though, some comments refer to it as gourmand (rainboweyes mentions it is vaguely reminiscent of Traversee du Bosphore) though you say it isn’t sweet. Since I don’t do well with gourmand, do you think this might be a pass? September 27, 2013 at 9:26pm Reply

    • rainboweyes: Hi Maren, I think you just need to try it yourself, it’s really hard to describe. For me it has this slightly velvety touch to it which reminds me of TdB (and Moulin Rouge) and it contains tonka bean which definitely gives it a slightly gourmand aura. But in my opinion, it’s far less gourmand than TdB. Although – the opinions vary here. Somebody – I don’t remember which blog it was – nowsmellthis, maybe? – described it as a more serious take on the Lancome La vie est belle theme, which definitely is not the case, I’d say. I think it might have been mentioned in a comment to the new Byredo 1996 (which is another Jerome Epinette creation and focuses on iris as well).
      By the way, I don’t do well with gourmand, either, they give me a headache after an hour or two, TdB is the only gourmand in my collection and I can only enjoy it on certain days. September 28, 2013 at 4:58am Reply

      • Maren: This is really helpful rainboweyes thank you! Also, I’m taking notes on your list of iris fragrances as I think we might be scent twins. ISM is my prized perfume of all. September 28, 2013 at 12:32pm Reply

    • Patricia: Hi Maren, I agree with rainboweyes that you will have to try this one to determine if it is too sweet for you. The tonka bean does definitely lend a gourmand flavor to the dry down, though to my nose, not an overly sweet one. September 28, 2013 at 8:30am Reply

    • rainboweyes: I’ve just read Patty’s review on perfumeposse and she describes the tonka bean in the drydown as a “wee bit of iris pastry effect” which is quite spot on in my opinion. She also mentions that it remotely resembles the discontinued Iris Ganache (which I’ve never tested, though) but is far less dessert-like. September 28, 2013 at 10:26am Reply

      • Patricia: Thank you, rainboweyes. Iris Ganache is one of my very favorites and I was lucky enough to snag a bottle before it was discontinued. It is very dessert-like and quite sweet compared to Silver Iris. September 28, 2013 at 1:32pm Reply

    • Maren: Thank you Patricia and rainboweyes. I do think I will give it a go, I just wonderd because I have tried TdB and there is something about it that just doesn’t work well for me. I don’t know what it is, I’m new at this and still learning. I actually think it might be the apple in TdB that bugs me, not the vanilla-tonka bean. I like the idea of “iris pastry effect!” September 28, 2013 at 12:26pm Reply

      • Patricia: It may be the apple or the pomegranate in the opening, Maren. I don’t care for TdB, either, though there are many other gourmand fragrances that I like very much, even some very sweet ones such as Keiko Mecheri’s Loukhoum Eau Poudree. September 28, 2013 at 1:40pm Reply

  • solanace: I hope at some point the metallic bottles will become a special edition and ordinary ones will be available. Not interested in metallic bottles at all, myself, but you’ve got my eye in the juice and I’ll be ordering a sample. I really enjoy the Atelier colognes I have tried, specially Orange Sanguine and Rose Anonyme. September 28, 2013 at 4:25am Reply

    • Patricia: Hi solanace, Orange Sanguine and Rose Anonyme are favorites of mine as well. I also like Ambre Nue, which I’m enjoying this fall as a lighter daytime amber scent. It is a very interesting line, and I’m curious to see what they will come up with next. Hopefully not in expensive bottles that jack the price up! September 28, 2013 at 8:34am Reply

      • solanace: I’ll certainly try Amber Nue as well! September 28, 2013 at 12:40pm Reply

  • maggiecat: I am not an iris fan, but the descriptions of this scent that I’ve seen so far tempt me to try it to see if it could be “my” iris. September 28, 2013 at 6:47pm Reply

  • Patricia: Hi maggiecat, I encourage you to give Silver Iris a try. Please let me know what you think of it! September 28, 2013 at 6:59pm Reply

  • Emma M: Thank you for this review, Patricia. I’m currently enjoying exploring the Atelier Cologne line, but haven’t tried Silver Iris yet.

    I too adore Iris Silver Mist, but find it very fleeting on me. I’m pleased to hear in your review that Silver Iris has good longevity – do you find it lasts longer than ISM?

    I love the Prada take on irises too and wear Infusion d’Iris often; thanks for reminding me that I can never have too many irises in my perfume collection! September 29, 2013 at 11:59am Reply

    • Patricia: Hi Emma M, since I’m not a wearer of ISM, I can’t speak to its longevity. Perhaps another reader could? We are indeed fortunate to have so many different representations of the iris to wear and enjoy! September 29, 2013 at 1:46pm Reply

      • Cornelia Blimber: Hi EmmaM!
        The initial, earthy note is away within ± half an hour, but the perfume as a whole lasts until the next day. That smell of earth and root and carrot is there in the background, but it develops into a more airy, silver indeed, sensation. The perfume is layered and perhaps you have experienced this as fleety? The drydown is very subtle, and almost cheerful after the rather raw and earthy beginning, but in is clearly present and lingers on and on .
        I wish I knew of which it reminds me. in my perception: Climat.
        So, my experience: it changes a lot but is very persistent. But it can be different on you and others.
        If it were fleeting on me, I would not let it go. but spray more often! It is unique. September 29, 2013 at 5:39pm Reply

        • Patricia: Thank you, Cornelia, for your excellent description of ISM :). September 29, 2013 at 6:06pm Reply

      • george: I tried on fabric on Friday: it’s still there, though it has mellowed to a much more amber smell; but I can smell it even if just passing the coat I sprayed it on, so longevity is very good in my mind. Maybe Emma’s experience was an anomaly? Or else just spray on fabric. September 30, 2013 at 4:23am Reply

      • rainboweyes: I can smell it the whole day too. On me – both on fabrics and skin – the longevity is just excellent September 30, 2013 at 1:47pm Reply

  • hajusuuri: Dear Patricia :-)…what a wonderful review of Silver Iris! Between yours and Lucas’, I feel like just running out and buying unsniffed! I will stay disciplined and try it first; however, it seems inevitable that I will own a FB within the next few months (a bottle is calling my name….).

    I have to come back to this thread to look at everyone else’s Iris collection. The crown jewel of mine is my preciousssss ISM, soon to see the light of day when the weather turns colder. September 30, 2013 at 10:18pm Reply

    • Patricia: Greetings, hajusuuri, and thank you for your kind comments 🙂 . There are so many wonderful iris fragrances for us to enjoy. October 2, 2013 at 10:08am Reply

  • Novice: I can’t thank you enough for this review because I’ve been introduced to the most beautiful Iris. Prada Infusion d’iris didn’t click with me at all – is it just me? I ordered a few samples from Atelier Cologne and fell for Silver Iris. So much so that I went all out and bought the coffret with 200ml and a small 30ml. Excellent service too! Thank you ever so much. December 17, 2013 at 6:18am Reply

    • Patricia: Hi Novice, It’s so gratifying to hear that you found your perfect iris :). And what a beautiful bottle to display on your dresser.

      So far I’ve been living off of my SI decant, but a full bottle is on my Christmas list. Fingers crossed… December 17, 2013 at 9:30am Reply

  • Sian-Estelle: I am currently in love with Le Labo’s ‘Iris 39’ my first foray into clearly Iris based fragrance. It makes me feel so luxurious and sophisticated and has started me on an Iris-strewn path. January 7, 2015 at 8:18am Reply

  • Patricia: Hi Sian-Estelle, I have a decant of Iris 39, and it is one of my favorite Iris fragrances, too. Another one I really enjoy is Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile. I prefer the EDT to the EDP, but it has been harder to find since it was discontinued. January 7, 2015 at 12:59pm Reply

  • Tijana: Lovely review Patricia, thank you! I only acquired this one recently and it quickly became one of my faves. Did you have a chance to try their Sous le toit de Paris fragrance? I also like violets but have not had a chance to try as it’s only available online and shipping cost to Canada utterly prohibitive 🙁 April 10, 2015 at 9:48am Reply

    • Patricia: Violet leaf isn’t my favorite note, Tijana, so after a quick spritz of my sample, I put it away. I’m going to see if I still have a sample, though, and give it a second chance since it was long ago that I tried it the first time. April 10, 2015 at 12:28pm Reply

      • Tijana: Yes I heard this one was especially green violet leaf… I prefer the flower. April 10, 2015 at 9:47pm Reply

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