Although I make accords of various materials as part of my work, they’re not what I would call “perfume.” Most of them are meant to explore combinations of specific ingredients or to showcase a raw material. Even so, I often return to some of my favorites well after the project is over to add a little touch here or there. Imagine how much more tempting it must be for a perfumer to revisit her creations down the line, but also more frustrating, since loyal clients don’t want their fragrances to change.
For indie perfumer Vero Kern the solution was to present Rubj, Mito, Kiki and Onda, the quartet that makes up her Vero Profumo collection, as three different concentrations–Eau de Parfum, Extrait de Parfum, and now Voile d’Extrait. As I quickly discovered, they could easily be different perfumes, and so I’ve waited with anticipation for Les Voiles d’Extrait.
Figuring out where Les Voiles d’Extrait fit in the neat (albeit largely mythical) hierarchy of Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum or Extrait de Parfum wasn’t straightforward. For instance, Mito Voile d’Extrait lasted as well as the parfum, but Rubj’s veil was on par with the Eau de Parfum. In all four cases, Les Voiles were rich, longlasting and tenacious. Want a perfume that lasts from early morning and then late into the night? You got it! If anything, washing them off would be more of a problem.
Since Mito and Rubj are my favorites from Vero Profumo, I’ve thus far spent more time with them than with Onda and Kiki. Mito is a cousin to Rochas Femme and Chanel Cristalle, but it has its own sultry character that is hard to forget. The Eau de Parfum is as fizzy as champagne, but in Voile d’Extrait you get a hot breath of tuberose. Mito Voile d’Extrait still has its retro glamour and easygoing charm, but the touch of white flowers makes it more smoldering and more voluptuous. Previously I compared Mito to Grace Kelly, and while Voile d’Extrait still retains the icy blonde impression, you can now imagine her as a vixen.
On the other hand, if smolder and curves is what you’re really after, then Rubj Voile d’Extrait is your potion. It’s of Rubenesque proportions, although it’s not surprising since both the parfum and EDP are big perfumes. No, wait, make it Big Perfumes. Voile d’Extrait is not only an interesting new version, it also improves on the Eau de Parfum. The passion fruit note in the EDP reminds me of decaying mango peels and the cumin note adds a sweaty note that seems dirty but not lusty. Voile d’Extrait skips these notes and instead amplifies the strawberry-like sweetness of orange blossom, the heft of tuberose and the sheer jasmine. It’s radiant and vivid, moving from the intense richness of white flowers to the soft polish of woods and musk.
It’s not fair to compare Mito and Rubj, because they’re too different, but I quickly singled out a favorite. As a sequel to the original Eau de Parfum, Mito’s Voile d’Extrait was an instant love. It gave me the familiar perfume in a new guise and made me experience it anew. Rubj was a different story. The parfum captured my attention for its sensuality, but the Voile d’Extrait is too soft and too mild. On the other hand, it’s also more wearable, and if Rubj left you gasping for air, its mild-mannered cousin (relatively speaking, of course) will be a better fit.
Mito Voile d’Extrait contains notes of citrus, peach, magnolia grandiflora, white magnolia champaca absolute, tuberose, galbanum, hyacinth, labdanum, and musk. Rubj Voile d’Extrait includes bergamot, mandarin, neroli, orange flower absolute, tuberose, jasmine, cedarwood, oakmoss, and musk. Available at Luckyscent. $250 50ml.
Sample: Vero Profumo