You never know what you’ll get with Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria fragrances. Some of them are fascinating and quirky like Pamplelune and Herba Fresca and others are unexpectedly bland like Lemon Fresca and Tutti Kiwi. Limon Verde, with its promise of the Brazilian drink, caipirinha, blended with creamy fig should have been squarely in the first camp, but in the end, it’s neither surprising nor interesting.
The first sign of trouble with Limon Verde is its razor sharp green accent. It is there to shore up the lime, but I can’t shake off the paint thinner association that some intense leafy notes have. A delicious lime, zesty and bittersweet, stands no chance and surrenders.
Because I don’t give in readily, I waited and was eventually greeted by milky sweetness. The creamy fig and almond like layers are the best part of Limon Verde, but they have to share space with the aggressive tropical fruit. The contrast between the tart fruit and warm fig seems interesting, but wearing the fragrance is not. Three hours later the whole thing fades enough for me to forget what Limon Verde is all about.
“Savor a caipirinha under the lemon trees along the Amazon River,” says Guerlain about Limon Verde, but while I’m glad to take up Guerlain on its offer, I’ll pass on Limon Verde. Luckily, there are plenty of other great options at Guerlain so as not to suffer the loss. For an exhilarating citrus and caipirinha I enjoy Guerlain Homme, an elegant take on woods dotted with crisp rhubarb, mint and bittersweet lime. If you absolutely require lemon trees, then consider Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat, a 1920 classic. Habit Rouge L’Eau won’t transport you to the Amazonian jungle, but it will provide a touch of the exotic with its blend of jasmine and toasted hazelnut folded into a citrus cocktail.
Finally, outside of Guerlain’s collection you can find plenty of interesting marriages between citrus and fig, starting with the milky Hermès Un Jardin en Méditerranée and continuing with the green Annick Goutal Ninféo Mio. It’s a trendy duo, and we can afford to be picky.
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde includes notes of lime, green notes, fig, sugarcane, tonka beans, tropical fruit. Available at Guerlain boutiques and counters.