News: 520 posts

Latest news from the fragrance world and other interesting reading

Chanel Les Exclusifs Misia : New Perfume

Chanel is introducing a new fragrance to Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection. Misia, in honor of Coco Chanel’s friend and muse Misia Sert. Her salon in Paris attracted such luminaries as Marcel Proust, Claude Monet, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Odilon Redon, Paul Signac, Claude Debussy, Stéphane Mallarmé, and André Gide, and Misia was painted by Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Édouard Vuillard and Pierre Bonnard. Her friendship with Chanel developed as she helped Coco grieve the death of her lover Arthur Capel in 1918, and the two women sustained a lasting bond.

misiaThe perfume is a blend of woody-gourmand and powdery floral notes. Iris root, Turkish rose, rose from Grasse, violet, tonka bean, benzoin and sandalwood form the composition. Created by Olivier Polge, it’s his first for Chanel as he assumes the in-house perfumer title alongside his father, Jacques Polge.

75 and 200 ml Eau de Toilette will be available at Chanel boutiques and concessions starting March 2015. Via press release

Killer Heels : Fashion, Obsession, Beauty

In his 1701 portrait, Louis XIV of France wears red-heeled shoes.  While it seems like a minor detail, especially given the opulence of the king’s robes, the poppy red shade sends an instant message–status. Louis XIV even passed an edict limiting red heels to the wardrobes of nobility. Today, red soles are the trademark of Christian Louboutin, whose stiletto pumps cost upwards of $700. Not much has changed since the 18th century with regards to red heels and their mesmerizing effect.

shoes

The themes of status, fetish and fashion are explored in an exhibit “Killer Heels” hosted by Brooklyn Museum. “As fashion statement, fetish object, instrument of power, and outlet of artistic expression for both the designer and the wearer, throughout the ages the high-heeled shoe has gone through many shifts in style and symbolism. Deadly sharp stilettos, architecturally inspired wedges and platforms, and a number of artfully crafted shoes that defy categorization are featured among the more than 160 historical and contemporary heels on loan from designers,” explains the catalog.

The exhibit includes work of renowned designers such as Christian Louboutin, Alexander McQueen, André Perugia, Prada, Elsa Schiaparelli, Noritaka Tatehana, Vivienne Westwood, among many others. It also traces mentions and depictions of heels in paintings and sculptures, some of which date as far back as the 12th century.

Even if you can’t make it to the exhibit, please take a look at the video on the Brooklyn Museum site.

Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe
Brooklyn Museum
200 Eastern Parkway, Brooklyn, NY 11238
Robert E. Blum Gallery, 1st Floor
September 10, 2014–February 15, 2015

Image: Louis XIV of France by Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1701 (a detail).

Top Selling Fragrances in France 2014

As the last of the Christmas sales are tallied up, consumer research groups are sending in their numbers and preparing their lists of top selling perfumes in 2014. In many ways, it was a year that brought some surprises and at the same time ensured that some trends won’t be going away. For instance, despite the breathless proclamations of forecasting agencies last year, there are no signs that the gourmand trend is giving way to woods and chypres. The best selling perfume of the year in France is an extra sweet blend of caramel and cotton candy. But at the same time, the list contains incense accented blend of woods and a powdery floral.

shalimar

The information comes from NPD Group and it was shared by ChallengeS, a French weekly. ChallengeS focuses on economic topics, so if you read French, please follow the link to learn what the new constellation of best sellers means for the French perfume market and L’Oréal in particular.

Top Selling Perfumes USA : Snapshot 2013

Top Selling Perfumes France 2012

Top Selling Perfumes USA : Popular Fragrances Spring 2012

Top Selling Feminine Fragrances 2011 USA

Top Selling Feminine Fragrances for 2010 USA

Top Selling Feminine Fragrances for 2010 France

Top Selling Masculine Fragrances 2010 USA

10. Flower by Kenzo (2000)

Soft and powdery, alternating between floral and musky notes, Flower is an intriguing perfume. It has a gentle personality, but its presence is distinctive and enveloping.

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Hermes New Home Scent Collection

Hermès is launching a new home scent collection created by Celine Ellena, the daughter of Jean-Claude Ellena, the house’s perfumer. In a collaboration with a renowned ceramist Guillaume Bardet, Ellena has composed five new scents to perfume candles, ceramic pebbles and an origami horse. The collection includes À Cheval! (pumpkin), Champ Libre (sulphur), Fenêtre Ouverte (lagoon), Des Pas Sur la Neige (taupe), and Temps de Pluie (celadon).

hermes

The candles are available in 3 different sizes: 1100 g at 350€, 620g at 250€, 220g at 150€. Each perfumed pebble is 200€. A set of 4 scented origami horses is 62€ (I had to look twice to make sure I didn’t make a mistake, but yes, they are 62€…)

The collection will be available in Hermès boutiques and in selected sales venues starting from December 2014. Via press release.

L’Artisan Tea For Two, L’Eau du Caporal, and Oeillet Sauvage

Happy news for those who’ve been mourning discontinued perfumes from L’Artisan Parfumeur–Tea For Two, L’Eau du Caporal, and Oeillet Sauvage will return to the collection in November 2014.

L'Artisan Parfumeur - Oeillet Sauvage -  100mlL'Artisan Parfumeur - L'eau du Caporal - 100ml

Tea For Two was created in 2000 by Olivia Giacobetti and was inspired by lapsang souchong, a famous smoky tea from China.  Giacobetti blended smoky notes, adding gourmand accents, ginger, cinnamon and honey. It was one of the first fragrances to be reviewed on Bois de Jasmin, and it was the fragrance I missed the most from L’Artisan.

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