top sellers: 16 posts

With the onslaught of new launches, you might wonder ends up a success and what vanishes into the perfume twilight zone populated by the 77th flanker on Very Irrésistible and minor celebrity fragrances. Every year the industry decries the fast pace of launches, and every year it goes on to produce even more. One favorite explanation is that we, the consumers, are demanding more and new things, but to me, to put it mildly, this is sheer nonsense. Blaming the consumer when the realities of making a profit in the fragrance market today have changed doesn’t make sense.

In the past, fragrance houses devoted years to developing new fragrances, because having a potential classic guaranteed consumer loyalty and established a brand’s reputation. The launches were gradual, usually starting in France or the US and slowly moving across the world. There was no expectation that a fragrance needs to be an immediate blockbuster, knocking it out of the park within the first quarter.

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I’ve never seen such well-dressed, beautifully groomed women as in Tokyo. At Harajuku or Ginza, two high-glamour areas with distinctly different vibes, you will see one impeccably coiffed beauty after another tottering in her impossibly high heels, looking as if she’s ready for a magazine cover.  Beauty is big business in Japan, where the sales of cosmetics make this country the world’s second largest market after the US. You can find entire magazines devoted to nothing but color cosmetics, with the kind of attention to detail that is downright astounding. I flip open the makeup magazine, Biteki, to find technical illustrations, sophisticated instructions and comparison charts on topics as straightforward as the application of lipstick or as complex as anti-aging skincare.

By comparison, perfume is not represented nearly as well . Walking through the glittering halls of the Mitsukoshi or Takashimaya department stores, you won’t find the endless expanse of fragrance bars that you would see at Neiman Marcus or even Macy’s. This is not to say that there isn’t an interesting selection of both prestige and niche lines in Japan. They are available, along with detailed technical explanations on how your fragrance was made and how you are supposed to enjoy it. Have you ever received a brochure describing how to apply fragrance from your local perfume store? At Mitsukoshi, that’s exactly what would wind up in your bag, along with an exquisitely wrapped bottle.

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When I was growing up in Ukraine, I don’t remember hearing women discuss perfume brands. They would simply refer to high-quality perfume as “French perfume,” and these two words conveyed all of the glamour, beauty and elegance that one sought inside a crystal bottle.  Even today, after having smelled no shortage of boring and uninspired French perfume, I still feel the allure of these words. Naturally, I’m curious as to what French women themselves wear.

The ranking is based on my calculations of published marketing data so please be kind enough to site the source if you choose to republish the information.

Top Selling Perfumes USA : Popular Fragrances Spring 2012

Top Selling Feminine Fragrances 2011 USA

Top Selling Feminine Fragrances for 2010 USA

Top Selling Feminine Fragrances for 2010 France

Top Selling Masculine Fragrances 2010 USA

And they wear plenty of scent–Paris metro is filled with a melange of perfume, which on occasion can be less than pleasant. On a recent trip, I took an anthropological approach and jotted down a few notes when I recognized a particular fragrance. My notebook was filled with mentions of Coco Mademoiselle, Angel, Miss Dior Chérie, and most surprisingly, Hypnotic Poison. I even smelled Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb on a girl dressed up as a fairy, complete with sparkles on her face and stars in her hair (and a classical Burberry trench).

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Chanel Coco Mademoiselle (2001), currently the USA’s top selling women’s fragrance, has little to do with the 1984 Coco fragrance it allegedly flanks. One isn’t related to the other, except from a marketing standpoint that has Coco Mademoiselle positioned to sell to young women and Coco aimed at an older crowd. Coco Mademoiselle is a patchouli scent that belongs to the species of Thierry Mugler Angel, the groundbreaking 1992 fruit and patchouli techno-gourmand that was responsible for many spin-offs, some of them flops and some of them, like Coco Mademoiselle, bestsellers.

The notes of Coco Mademoiselle–rose, jasmine, patchouli, lychee, orange, grapefruit, vetiver, vanilla, and musk–say absolutely nothing about the scent. It’s not possible to imagine what it smells like from that roster. So many of these notes are rendered completely abstract that what really jumps out is a greenish, herbal patchouli over which have been melted vanilla and the type of fruit syrups used to flavor water.

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Top Selling Feminine Fragrances 2o12 France

Top Selling Feminine Fragrances 2011 USA

Top Selling Feminine Fragrances for 2010 USA

Top Selling Feminine Fragrances for 2010 France

Top Selling Masculine Fragrances 2010 USA

Last week I was attending one of our usual marketing presentations that focused on current perfume trends and popular fragrances. I jotted down a few notes on what is selling well this spring in the US.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle  
Chanel Bleu de Chanel 
Gucci Guilty Homme  
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue  
Chanel Chance Eau Tendre

LVMH continues to make most of its money from J’Adore, while Estee Lauder’s top seller is Cashmere Mist.

No major revelations here, but I was curious to see that Gucci Guilty Homme jumped straight to the top of the best seller list (compare it to last year’s Top Selling Masculine Fragrances USA list). Maybe, it isn’t all that surprising, since it’s another fresh, “boardroom acceptable” blend. There is nothing avant-garde about it, but it’s well-made and elegant.

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