Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Soie Rouge : Fragrance Review



Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Created by Jean Laporte in 1988, Soie Rouge, “red silk,” is a powdery carnation with peppery bite supported by a base of moldy peaches oozing sweet juices. This would not have been that bad—or perhaps it would have been–but with the typical Maître Parfumeur et Gantier musk dominating, this is among my least favorite fragrances of the range. Notes: carnation, heliotrope, apricot, pineapple.



  • Tania: If it were smoky and austere instead of heavy and bludgeoning, it would work. I think you’re right: the wallop of musk kills it. June 25, 2005 at 12:23pm Reply

  • Victoria: Yes, I would love more pepper and some incense in it, instead of all that musk. Now, I detect that musk in every single MPG. June 25, 2005 at 9:53pm Reply

  • julien: I really adore MAITRE PARFUMEUR ET GANTIER.
    SOIE ROUGE is delicate,with an evergreen elegance.
    My favorite one yet is OR DES INDES,a kind of compromise in between SHALIMAR and l’HEURE BLEUE,very powdery,with a strong background of oppoponax(i love it!),then its ends in a metallic note à la RIVE GAUCHE from YSL,that reminds us the gold…as the noun of the fragance…
    Do you know this scent?
    I am sur you would love it,even though it is not a white flowers scent…
    Well,MPG has got so many beautiful fragances,if i could,i would posess them all… June 26, 2005 at 8:31am Reply

  • Victoria: I have not tried Or des Indes for a while, but I do remember liking it. Thank you for reminding me that I need to resample this fragrance. June 26, 2005 at 10:34am Reply

  • Tania: I haven’t been able to wear any MPG at all! I gave up on trying. Santal Noble was the closest I got, and even that was too much of something. I feel, when I wear any of them, that they are all trying too hard. June 26, 2005 at 7:00pm Reply

  • Spadefoot: I have yet to meet a MPG I like, but Soie Rouge wins the grand prize for its suffocating suggestion of rotten fruit and old used clothing that’s been bunched up in a damp box in the shed during the summer rains. June 27, 2005 at 9:33pm Reply

  • Victoria: This is a great description. I do not care for MPG fruit renditions, as they seem to be bordering on overripe. Perhaps, it is the musk they use. I wish I knew what type of musk it is. June 27, 2005 at 10:22pm Reply

  • Cornelia Blimber: I am with Julien. Athough I find Soie Rouge in the end a bit too sweet to my taste, I finished a 100 ml bottle with pleasure. I enjoy the carnation note, but there could be less fruit for me. I still have a little vial of it left, and on resniffing, I even consider buying a new one.
    I love and own Racine, Santal Noble, Eau de Mûre, and my favorite MPG Tubéreuse. August 2, 2015 at 8:40am Reply

    • Victoria: Something about the base they use bothers me very much. It turns cloyingly musk on my skin, but this aside, I think that the fragrances are interesting and unusual. I probably like Soie Rouge more now than I did 10 years ago. August 2, 2015 at 10:58am Reply

What do you think?

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