June 2006: 30 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

For anyone with interest in history, the exploration of vintage fragrances is a journey that offers one exciting discovery after another. Each bottle of perfume holds the essence of its time, artistic inspirations, and scientific advances. Coty L’Origan (1905) conjures Edwardian silhouettes and rich fabrics. Caron Nuit de Noël (1922) captures the Art Deco glamour. Robert Piguet Bandit (1944) is an avant-garde take on leather, a new style of fragrance that resonated with the post-war sentiments. Opening each vintage bottle for the first time is like unveiling a mystery, an experience that never fails to make my heart race. …

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“I picked up the invisible scent of ylang-ylang and cinnamon as my brow dampened with sweat, and I inhaled the piquant memory of an island that existed in a rare state of grace I hoped would last forever.” I highly recommend taking a look at the fascinating article by Ty Sawyer about the island of Nosy Be, off the northwest coast of Madagascar.

Photo: Ylang ylang, a flower which thrives on Madagascar.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Parfumerie Générale Aomassaï is a scent of an antique spice box—an oily film on the wood, a scattering of pepper and pimento berries, a mélange of sweetness and muskiness. This unexpected twist arrives after the initial toffee effect, which further accents the opulence of Aomassaï. The ambery resinous richness of the composition makes for a potent woody oriental, which does not speak in half tones. …

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“Food and fragrance should always be considered together… ‘for a better, bigger experience of anything you find on your plate, on your skin, or in the air’,” observed the perfumer Christophe Laudamiel (creator of Michael Kors Island, Slatkin Persian Lime and Mimosa and Estée Lauder Youth Dew Amber Nude) during the James Beard Foundation event “Educate Your Palate” on the arts of fragrance and flavor. The event was organized by the perfume industry consultant Michelle Krell Kydd as well as Bill Yosses, the pastry chef of Citarella restaurant, and Food Arts has an interesting article by Laura Stanley about it. It is the first in the series of events that are held at New York University’s School of Continuing Education and are open to public.

The Father’s Day was yesterday, and in keeping with the theme, I would like to offer a list of top ten masculine fragrances that I find simply outstanding, whether I wear them myself or not. Although the line between feminine and masculine can be somewhat arbitrary, the labeling can be useful as shorthand for identifying particular families and styles. By way of example, fougère is a family that for the most part finds its way into the masculine fragrances; therefore, for women who love the aromatic interplay marking the compositions in this genre, the masculine market will offer many interesting options, from the classics like Caron Third Man to the new releases like L’Artisan Fou d’Absinthe. It is also fascinating to observe the emergence of new trends and techniques in the masculine domain. Ultimately, the decision to designate something as pour homme or pour femme must be a personal one.