September 2006: 15 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

F is indeed an appropriate name for this rather indifferent new release from Salvatore Ferragamo. From the sharp nail polish remover stringency of the top notes to the cloying sweetness pervading its base, F adopts every single cliché of a commercial feminine perfume with the resulting impression lacking any suggestion of character or individuality. …

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Slatkin’s collection of fragrances now includes Orange Blossom & Citron, which is described as “a vivacious blend of orange blossom and citrus with sprarkling notes of ripe mandarin, fresh neroli and spicy lemon zest.”

Also, see the new Scentstrip column by Chandler Burr in the NYT, which discusses Slatkin Absinthe, Dior Homme and Versace The Dreamer.

Update: Slatkin fragrances have been discontinued.

Cosmetics International reports on a new line inspired by Shakespeare. Juliette Has A Gun will be launched next year with Lady Vengeance and Miss Charming, with three more fragrances following later. The two perfumes are created by Francis Kurkdjian, the perfumer behind Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile (with Christine Nagel), Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male, Dior Cologne Blanche and Eau Noire as well as Lanvin Rumeur. “Taking its name from Shakespeare’s ill-fated heroine and updating it to the 21st century, Ricci [Romano Ricci of A&R Parfums which created the brand] said he aimed to create a new stable of fragrances for modern women who ‘pursue today, more than ever, an intense desire for freedom’,” note the article. “Lady Vengeance aims to evoke powerful emotions with notes of Italian rose absolute, vanilla and patchouli while the more innocent Miss Charming will feature Moroccan rose, wild strawberry and lychee.”

The days have been turning darker and rainier over the past week, and today the first thing I noticed when I stepped outside was a scattering of golden leaves on the ground. Although seasonality in perfume is a vaguely defined concept, it is enjoyable to switch one’s scented wardrobe in anticipation of a new season. For me, the soft florals (or aldehydic florals) and classical florals of the summer give way to the chypre and oriental compositions during the colder months. Both chypres and orientals are comprised of notes that can give a warm sensation, such as the dry heat of patchouli in the former or the sensual richness of spices and resins in the latter. In contrast to the delicate, dewy notes of soft florals like Robert Piguet Baghari and fresh florals like Marc Jacobs Blush, the flowers blooming in the hearts of oriental fragrances are opulent and sweet—rose, jasmine, carnation, narcissus. The iris that forms the link between the middle and base notes of many chypre perfumes is more of a wood than a flower—hefty, silky and rich. What might appear as too heavy and smothering in the heat instead works like a cashmere wrap in the cold. …

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Those who enjoyed the last year’s edition of Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Extrême will be glad to know that it is going to be reintroduced for the holiday season of 2006. Saks5thAvenue is already taking pre-orders on it. The notes for the 2006 version include bergamot, tea, orange blossom, rose centifolia, jasmine sambac, cattleya orchid, osmanthus, patchouli, vanilla, benzoin.