April 2007: 13 posts

FiFi Awards 2007 Finalists Announced


The Fragrance Foundation has announced the top five finalists in each of 20 award categories on Friday, April 27th. “The winners will be presented at the 35th Annual FiFi Awards & Celebration event on Thursday May 31st in the Winter Garden at The World Financial Center in New York City.” The top five finalists have been selected out of the top ten semi-finalists.

Fragrance of the Year – Women’s Nouveau Niche
•Armani Privé Cuir Amethyst (unisex) – Giorgio Armani Parfums
•Delices de Cartier – Cartier North America
•Kenzo Amour – Kenzo Parfums
•The Scent of Peace – Bond No. 9 New York – Laurice & Co.
•Tom Ford Black Orchid – Tom Ford Beauty

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Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine May Issue : Perfumers, Niche and Jean Carles

The May issue of Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine is filled with very interesting articles. A preview of the events taking place at the World Perfumery Congress, which takes place on June 5-9, 2007 is offered on page 14. Nobi Shioya, the founder of niche house S-Perfume and Made by Blog is interviewed in the article Sculpting Scent on page 18. On working with perfumers he says, “I’m so used to those types of people [musicians, artists and designers]… but when I first met perfumers like Alberto Morillas or Thierry Wasser–from the outside they were … very classical [European] types; but once I started to speak with them, their personalities were more striking than any other artists that I knew.”

In the piece Exposing the Perfumer (page 38), Michelle Krell Kydd is exploring what it means to be a perfumer in the 21st century, especially given the advent of the internet technology. She interviews senior perfumer Carlos Benaim of International Flavors & Fragrances, Jean-Pierre Subrenat of the World Perfumery Congress, Jean Guichard of Givaudan’s perfumer school, and Frédéric Malle of Editions de Parfums, among others. For a perfume lover who enjoys delving deep into the topic, the article includes two updated charts of the famous Jean Carles method, which is used to study the aroma-materials.

Amouage Gold : Fragrance Review


Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

When the house of Amouage was established in 1983 by the Sultan of Oman, the renowned perfumer Guy Robert essentially received carte blanche when it came to creating the signature Amouage fragrance. Now known as Amouage Gold, it is a perfume epitomizing luxury and opulence, a composition of traditional Omani ingredients, yet created in the grand style of French perfumery. Robert, whose creations include Hermès Equipage, Doblis and Calèche, Christian Dior Dioressence, and Madame Rochas, is a master of the gilded and elegant compositions that evoke mirrored ballrooms and Strauss waltzes. Likewise, Gold is a polished and luminous fragrance that dazzles without ever losing its refined quality. …

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Tom Ford Private Blend Amber Absolute : Perfume Review


Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I knew that Amber Absolute was going to be my favorite from Tom Ford’s Private Blend when, after sampling all twelve fragrances, it stood out in my mind. Returning to my samples again and again, I came to admire two fragrances above all–Amber Absolute and Oud Wood . While the latter is an interesting polished and transparent take on oud, the former is a voluptuous and resinous composition. One can almost feel the heft and the slightly rough texture of raw silk when smelling this dramatic amber. …

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Guerlain Oud Sensuel and Garden Sensuel : Perfume Oils Review


Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Fill the tent with a variety of different perfumes: ambergris, musk and all sorts of scents, such as rose, orange flowers, jonquils, jasmine, hyacinth, carnation and other plants. This done, have placed there several gold censers filled with green aloes, ambergris, naddah and such like.”
from the 15th century Arab book The Perfumed Garden of Sensual Delight.*

The house of Guerlain has been enchanted with the East for much of its history, from Persian Bouquet (1840), Shalimar (1925) to Samsara (1989). In this light, it is not surprising to discover that Garden Sensuel and Oud Sensuel Huiles de Parfum released this spring are inspired by the perfume oil tradition of the Middle and Far East. The writings of Herodotus, Theophrastus, Pliny as well as the Arabian Nights Tales attest to the opulence and sophistication of Middle Eastern perfumery. If the 18th court of Louis XV was known as le cour parfumée (perfumed court), then that of Baghdad’s Abbasid Caliphs deserved this title more than 10 centuries earlier. …

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