The fans of Serge Lutens will be excited to hear the news that two new fragrances are about to join the collection: El Attarine and Serge Noire. The exclusive range will see the debut of El Attarine Eau de Parfum, which is described in the following manner in the press release:
“In Arab countries, ‘attarin’ means sweet-smelling, and refers to everything within the realm of the ‘atar’: fragrance, heart, flavour and essence.
There is no distinction between the olfactory and the gustatory, until the moment when you decide whether to taste or smell. …
This ultimate sensory expression fuelled my imagination with visions of a captivated, captive love.
Taking many routes and rarely travelled paths; scent by scent, I wove the fabric of my perfumery.
El Attarine is also a name, one of the world’s most beautiful Koranic schools in Fez, for a privileged few. Its beauty, matching that of the finest palaces and mosques, contributed to the scent of a culture rich with emotion. From my attarinian solitude, the fruits of my imagination were abundant.
Naturally averse to crowds, my route was predestined to be solitary.
This vision, initially neglected, was eventually reconsidered. It deserved closer analysis. And indeed, there was ground to be covered! Conventional wisdom is not necessarily what I think is wise, nor where I feel at home. I must therefore accept the decadences of luxury, even those which may lead to excess!
Attarine is not a closed door. You cannot make a perfume with only your nose. It is an accord born from a disaccord in the first person, wide open to the imagination.
If you are expecting me in one place, I am already elsewhere, if I am not there, I am already far away.
Truth creates beauty in its own image and is instantly recognisable. It is not a question of being caught. You are already captivated. Irresistible, I have captured this essence for your delight.
Today, I offer you gold, sun-drenched topaz, everlasting flowers and saps. ”
From Serge Lutens press release.
16 Comments
Girlsodeadly: The exhilarating world of Serge Lutens is always something that gets his fans all excited and turn off those who lack an artistic vibe and only see fragrances as an olfactory composition whose objective is to “smell good” period.
On the other hand if Tania Sanchez finds Un Bois Sepia has suffered a banal reformulation, I ‘ve been very disappointed by the reformulation of Fleurs d ‘Oranger, which used to be the sexiestlushiest white floral, its orange zest, rich jasmine, white rose and creamy tuberose have given way to a rather dull, more orange blossom than before, light jasmine enhanced with too much cumin. I ‘m very upset, I cannot wear new Fleurs d ‘Oranger anymore. June 19, 2008 at 2:20pm
cara: Girlsodeadly, when did you notice that they reformulated Fleurs d’oranger? I love it, but my bottle is 2 years old. I’m now worried about repurchasing. June 19, 2008 at 3:40pm
cara: Oh, and El Attarine sounds simply divine! I am guessing that it contains my beloved immortelle note. June 19, 2008 at 3:41pm
Girlsodeadly: cara, the first time I noticed the change was when my boyfriend bought me an export bottle for my birthday january 2006. I thought it was just a bad batch. Last year I was shipped a bell jar and it was also the same reformulated Fleurs d ‘Oranger. I still have a bell jar pre-2006 and an export bottle that was the limited edition summer 2005, I keep them preciously, they ‘re both the original Fleurs d ‘Oranger, the one I always loved since the late 90’s.
I wear Tubereuse Criminelle and Sarrasins instead now.
I am not an expert so this is just my perception but I believe if your Fleurs d ‘Oranger starts with a predominant orange zest note and heady jasmine it ‘s the old one, if it starts with orange blossom and cumin, it ‘s the “new” version. June 19, 2008 at 5:22pm
Sveta: Vika, this sounds so beautiful! I’m now super excited about these news. But wait, it’s just for Europe, right? June 19, 2008 at 7:28pm
Sveta: Vika, this sounds so beautiful! I’m now super excited about these news. But wait, it’s just for Europe, right? June 19, 2008 at 7:29pm
Bela: I bought my first bottle of Fleurs d’Oranger in 2002: it didn’t smell of orange zest; it wasn’t supposed to smell of orange zest, but of orange blossom, which is what it smelled of. I haven’t noticed any change at all. June 19, 2008 at 7:51pm
Tarn: Girlsodeadly – I’m sad to hear that Fleurs d’Oranger has changed. I bought a bottle a few months ago and I like it, but now I’m thinking of what I’m missing! 😉
Do you know of any reformulations which have improved on the original? I imagine many are done to save money, replace no longer available ingredients or remove those which can cause irritation. But I’m an optimist, so I hope some reformulations are done to make a scent better… June 20, 2008 at 11:50am
girlsodeadly: Tarn, some reformulations are better than the original, it ‘s very rare though. I know that the first years of Rive Gauche were soapier and creamier with a more pronounced citrus topnote, something that was also noticed by Luca Turin in his 1994 guide (I have a huge 200ML splash bottle from the 80’s), the late 80’s/90’s reformulation was better, darker, more metallic and complex, extremely beautiful. unfortunately the 2003 reformulation made it fruitier and sweeter but that said it ‘s still beautiful and a fragrance I enjoy wearing as is which is not the case with new Fleurs d ‘Oranger.
Please contact me on my email and I will send you a decant of old Fleurs d ‘Oranger so you can compare and see for yourself. June 20, 2008 at 2:18pm
Anonymous: I am always fascinated with the source of inspirations for artists. The press release reveals a glimpse of Serge Lutens is attracted by, in a poetic manner, as always. This is a must-try. Thank you for the information and I look forward to read your review on this.
Kaori June 20, 2008 at 9:42pm
Anthony: This new fragrance sounds simply divine. I became introduced to the world of Serge Lutens only since this past February when I recieved a bottle of Fleurs Oranger for Valentines Day. I have no sense of comparrison to the original formula but I love it!! On days when I am feeling particularly brave I layer Fleurs Oranger with Frederic Malles Une Rose…..the combination is captivating.
Since February I have invested in Tueberose Crimenelle, Muscs Kublai Khan, Sarrassins, Rahat Loukoum, Borneo 1834, Cedre, Datura Noir, Iris Silver Mist, & Fumerie Turque.
I suppose one could say that I am addicted to Lutens and his amazing fragrances. My next Lutens purchases will be these two new fragrances!!
I at one time had a similiar infatuation with Guerlain that resulted in Attrape Couer, Quand Vient la Pluie, Jicky, Vega, & L’ Heure Bleue.
Although, I still love Guerlain I feel like many times Guerlain fragranes “own me” and Lutens fragrances simple “become my own”. I fell that that all fragrances are unisex regardless of how they are marketed. It is simple dependent upon the confidence of the wearer. My next trip to Paris in the coming weeks will yield a bottle of El Attarine! June 21, 2008 at 2:32am
chayaruchama: I eagerly await Ze Sniff !
Always an olfactory adventure…. June 21, 2008 at 8:58pm
harper: mmm…saps….
but god: “Conventional wisdom is not necessarily what I think is wise, nor where I feel at home. I must therefore accept the decadences of luxury, even those which may lead to excess!” — what a burden, that, eh 😉
aside from that, what chaya said: “I eagerly await Ze Sniff !”
harper June 23, 2008 at 2:10am
Marina: Well I am so glad that SL copy is as obscure as ever. All is fine with the world 🙂 Can’t wait to smell it. June 22, 2008 at 10:27pm
erica: Hello everyone! I’m new to this blog…don’t know why it took me so long to find it? I LOVE perfume and am always on a mission to find the most exotic, unique smell to call my own. I like to wear something special that I wont smell on others, or that is not mass produced, like many department store brands. I could use some advice here….I love Santa Maria Novella, although it doesnt seem to last very long onme. I also love Creed (and enjoy mixing several Creed scents together. I am looking for a delicious, unique, sexy/mysterious scent, one that will last on me. Everybody’s chemistry is different. So could you guys offer some awesome perfumes? I live in Manhattan, so going to different places to check them out in person is not a problem (much easier than ordering it online without ever trying it is silly, especially at soem of these prices!). Im not too big on floral scents (but do like gardenia). Can anyone describe Costes? Ive never tried it but heard its beautiful. I’d love to wear something that represents an exotic loation in Italy or France. I love to be different!!! Also, I use a Morrocan oil in my hair and Im so in love with the smell, I want to find a perfume that has that scent. Can anyone recommend a perfume with morrocan oil (and I think theres something called argan oil in it too). Thanks so much! August 15, 2008 at 10:08pm
jen: I would love to try El Attarine, but I live in Asia–is there anywhere other than Paris it is sold? August 18, 2008 at 12:47pm