Love and Disappointment : A Month in Perfume

What have you tried recently that you absolutely loved and would recommend? What disappointed you?


I have been enjoying a good perfume month so far, as I have been smelling new launches. L’Eau de Chloe, A Lab on Fire What We Do in Paris is Secret, Viktor & Rolf SpicebombSerge Lutens L’Eau Froide and Etat Libre d’Orange Fils de Dieu are the new fragrances I liked. I was not thrilled with Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Capri, but I did not have particularly high expectations for it.

Image: Yellow Magnolia by Bois de Jasmin.



  • Martyn: Ha! I bought Dior’s Eau Fraiche as a gift for someone – and kept it for myself! Much nicer even than Eau de Guerlain (though I love G’s bee bottle). March 12, 2012 at 10:50am Reply

  • Victoria: I also liked Kokorico, and it was one of my mainstream favorites last year. Not a fan of head shaped bottles, but hey, at least it is distinctive. March 12, 2012 at 10:58am Reply

  • Victoria: I love Eau Fraiche! Have you had a chance to smell revamped Diorling? March 12, 2012 at 11:12am Reply

  • Raluca: A few days ago I tried Infanta en Flor (artquisite) and liked it. I wanted to smell it again and again. The flowers combined with the leather are addictive. The new Cavalli fragrance is very beautiful too. March 12, 2012 at 12:17pm Reply

  • Mihaela: Good part of the month: Loved the Thierry Mugler Womanity Taste of Fragrance (It’s stronger, with a lot more fig then the original and a note that smelled like peanut butter to me,it’s spicy but not very spicy and it’s less salty) and I could not help myself so I bought it.

    Retested and loved Bvlgary pour femme (filled with powdery violets). Tested and loved very much Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa .

    Disappointment: Bvlgari Omnia Coral is nice but common.
    Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Orange Magnifica I was expecting a big Orange note but I got Amber and Cedar.
    Calvin Klein Sheer Beauty a fruity floral that sadly smells exactly like shampoo and it does not resemble the original Beauty not one bit. March 12, 2012 at 12:48pm Reply

  • Rowanhill: It would be great to read your review on the new new L’Eau de Chloe. March 12, 2012 at 12:56pm Reply

  • sunnlitt: I tried Bronze Goddess Capri.
    I liked it for the first few moments, and then it started to smell of Johnson&Johnson baby lotion. That did it for me and I had to go upstairs in the department store and wash it off.

    Oh well, the search for the Magical Tropical Summer Fragrance continues….. March 12, 2012 at 2:14pm Reply

  • Nick: Well despite overly mixed reviews and having no expectations, being stuck in an Airport afforded me time to “poke my nose” into Kokorico JPG – and blow me over! It was rather enjoyable.

    Nothing like the reviews that I remember, it seems to me to be very different to the blah male frags of late. I probably would be tempted to buy a bottle (despite its hideous design).

    I also had time to check out the entire Jo Malone range, gorgeous scents, but only for the 1st 20 mins then they fade and become much of a muchness, but Oud & Bergamot is rather delicious and a little longer lasting that many of the others. March 12, 2012 at 10:30am Reply

  • Arianna: A new love is the already old Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection,adore it ,can’t get enough!
    Very disappointed with the latest Etat Libre scent Bijou Romantique,had high hopes because it is by Matilde Bijaoui,but it has a harsh powdery aspect to it that makes it a scrubber for me.Haven’t seen any reviews of it yet,have you tried it? March 12, 2012 at 2:40pm Reply

  • Martyn: “Have you had a chance to smell revamped Diorling?”

    No, but as you mention it, I’ll seek it out – just as long as those harpies and their little paper touches keep out of my way! March 12, 2012 at 3:07pm Reply

  • Perfumista8: Your review of Diptyque’s Eau Rose inspired me to try more perfumes with a prominent rose note and now I can’t get enough! This was a great surprise as I have basically ruled out even trying several perfumes because I didn’t think I could ever wear rose. This is great for the new perfumes that will enter my life, not so good for the wallet.

    I finally sampled Les Nez Manoumalia and oh what a disappointment! Up front I got this huge hit of stale cigarette ash. Very unexpected- I wonder if anyone else has experienced this? I tried it again a couple days later, and there it was again — this perfumre literally made my stomach lurch. Sorry if I’m speaking ill of someone’s favorite fragrance — none of the reviews I’ve read say anything about a tobacco note, nevermind stale cigarettes so maybe it’s just me. March 12, 2012 at 5:06pm Reply

  • Victoria: At Saks 5th Avenue, they were trying to persuade me to try J’Adore instead. 🙂 March 12, 2012 at 5:47pm Reply

  • Victoria: I liked several from Arquiste, especially Anima Dulcis. Although now that it is warming up, I am craving something fresher and brighter. March 12, 2012 at 5:48pm Reply

  • Victoria: I also wanted to love Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Orange Magnifica, but it was strangely flat. So far, Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine is my favorite orange scent. It is really like biting into a big, juicy orange! March 12, 2012 at 5:49pm Reply

  • Victoria: It is ready, in line to be posted! March 12, 2012 at 5:50pm Reply

  • Victoria: The Magical Tropical Summer Fragrance search is ongoing for me as well. Have you tried the original Bronze Goddess? So far, it fits the bill for m.e March 12, 2012 at 5:51pm Reply

  • Victoria: Haven’t smelled Bijou Romantique yet. I love the name. Harsh and powdery certainly doesn’t sound good. March 12, 2012 at 5:51pm Reply

  • Victoria: I’m so glad to hear that you are enjoying rose perfumes. They are certainly very diverse, and it is fun to sample and compare.

    My first reaction on smelling Les Nez Manoumalia was very visceral. It smelled like something rotten, stale. I was not able to revisit it since then, but I am going to. There are some people who absolutely love it, and I want to understand what they see in it. March 12, 2012 at 5:54pm Reply

  • Perfumista8: So, I’m not crazy 🙂 I get what you mean too – it may not be a perfume I’ll wear, but it would be nice to understand it better. March 12, 2012 at 6:26pm Reply

  • Victoria: Of course, you are not! 🙂 Plus, our associations are very personal and powerful. I will spray it on paper the next time–less commitment this way. It is really well-done though. March 12, 2012 at 6:28pm Reply

  • skilletlicker: I loved the Etat Libre d’Orange Like This Tilda Swinton scent! It’s highly unusual and weirdly addictive. Does it remind you of any other scents, Victoria?

    Thanks! March 12, 2012 at 9:25pm Reply

  • behemot: I finally smelled FM Le Parfum de Therese and loved it (ordered FB today) . Revisited Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile (nice) and discovered Cacharel Loulou (very interesting.)
    After a break, repurchased Cristalle.
    Bulgari Omnia Coral – nice, but not very appealing to me.
    Looking at new “Miss Dior” bottles was sad. I wasn’t at all tempted to sniff this thing.. March 12, 2012 at 9:56pm Reply

  • Musette: Xerjoff Iriss. After an initial ‘oh, okay’ I recently revisited and was mesmerized!

    xo March 12, 2012 at 11:49pm Reply

  • Rowanhill: Excellent! 🙂 March 13, 2012 at 6:47am Reply

  • tania: Hi! I can’t remember if I’ve ever commented here before.

    This post is timely, because I have recently been disappointed in a new scent – the revamped Diorling. There’s just not much to say about it! No real character, not what I’d call a ‘proper’ chypre, and it only lasted about an hour on my skin (a bit longer on fabric). Such a pity. Everything I’ve heard about the original makes me feel sad for this wan little thing… March 13, 2012 at 7:32am Reply

  • Sherri M: I’ve been trying a lot of new fragrances. I was very pleasantly surprised by Mona DiOrio Musc. I was more expecting something along the lines of Musc Kublai Khan from this line (I actually love Nuit Noire, Carnation, etc.). I actually do prefer the soft musks–to wear myself anyway–though I love MKK on others.

    I was disappointed by Mohur. Everyone raved about it. It seemed to me a citrus vanilla mess–too much going on….I’m seriously wondering if I got the wrong sample. Maybe I’ll order another.

    I liked, with reservations (a little late for reservations when I ordered a FB blind!) Myrrhe et Delires. It’s elegant but shy, and doesn’t have the lasting power the other L’art et la Matiere collection do (and I would hope for, given its price point). March 13, 2012 at 9:12am Reply

  • Victoria: It is now up! March 13, 2012 at 9:58am Reply

  • Victoria: It really doesn’t, but maybe a bit of Douce Amere. It is such a strange, but appealing fragrance. Your phrase “weirdly addictive” is exactly how I think of it. March 13, 2012 at 9:59am Reply

  • Victoria: Ah, I just revisited Cacharel Loulou at a duty free shop. It smells so good–a fun, bubbly oriental. March 13, 2012 at 10:00am Reply

  • Victoria: I haven’t smelled a single Xerjoff yet. Must take a plunge one of these days. March 13, 2012 at 10:01am Reply

  • Victoria: Welcome, Tania!
    My first impression of Diorling was positive–the fresh green top notes were very nicely crafted, but after I wore it longer on my skin, it started to fall apart. I still haven’t done a side by side comparison, but I am even scared to try. Can’t bear more disappointments with Dior’s classics. March 13, 2012 at 10:02am Reply

  • Victoria: Hmmm, citrus vanilla doesn’t sound like Mohur, but all of us smell things differently and our skin chemistry makes a big different as well.

    How I wish I could turn the volume up on Myrrhe et Delires! March 13, 2012 at 10:03am Reply

  • Kerrie: I have to agree with Tania about not being able to bear any more disappointments with Dior classics. I will try Dior Eau Fraiche though as this one I have not tried. March 13, 2012 at 2:13pm Reply

  • Victoria: Dior Eau Fraiche is a very elegant, crisp cologne. Definitely worth smelling, Kerrie, if you have a chance. March 13, 2012 at 2:24pm Reply

  • Kerrie: Thanks Victoria – I will certainly find this one.

    Speaking of classics…while looking for a new spring scent, I recently saw Arpege in its beautiful black bottle and had to try it. I will keep it for special occassions but miss the original. My mother used to wear Arpege so the memory goes back a long way. March 13, 2012 at 2:32pm Reply

  • Austenfan: Manoumalia, seems to deliberately smell of decay I think. I happen to love it- it is on my to buy list- but it most definitely wasn’t love at first sniff. I think March at the Posse had quite an interesting reaction to it although she really didn’t like it. March 13, 2012 at 5:11pm Reply

  • Victoria: It is one of those scents that I keep thinking about, even though I don't find it appealing. It reminds me of the smells in the tropics, where the luscious and vile scents exist side by side. I am sure that I will revisit it again. March 13, 2012 at 5:14pm Reply

  • Sujaan: My absolute new favorite is Trayee by Neela Vermeire. I also snapped up a bottle of L’Occitane Ambre which is back for a limited time. It’s inexpenisve and great for layering. March 13, 2012 at 5:38pm Reply

  • Lynn Morgan: I am dying to try the new Cartier- Baiser Vole, even if the name does hint at an inappropriate relationship with a rodent! Sorry, I am intrigued because, judging from the media blitz (including unprecedented TV commercials!) Cartier must be up to something off the charts big! “L’Odysee de Cartier” indeed. Other han that, my love affairs with Andy Tauer’s “Miriam” and Prada “Candy” continue. March 13, 2012 at 6:47pm Reply

  • Musette: Don’t DO IT!!!! Step away from the side-by-side. They are nothing alike and it will irritate you no end, as it did me. I screeched like a third grade girl when I tried my vintages against the new. Blergh!

    xoA March 13, 2012 at 7:33pm Reply

  • tania: Yes, that’s pretty much what happened when I tried it. I’ve never smelled the original, but I just wish they would change the name rather than recycle it, when there’s obviously been no attempt made to recreate it.
    I’m a bit down on Dior anyway, since they decided to rename Miss Dior Cherie to plain Miss Dior. March 14, 2012 at 9:16am Reply

  • unseencenser: Several Xerjoffs are upsettingly good (given the price). I absolutely adore Elle and Richwood. March 18, 2012 at 12:17pm Reply

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