Recommend Me a Perfume : October 2016

Our October “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is now open. You can use this space to ask any questions about perfume, including fragrance recommendations, and of course, share your discoveries.


How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!

To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin, “cats in the traditional Iranian carpet design.”



  • Maryjane: I am loving lemon and lemon verbena type fragrances for their cleanness and sunny tang. I have in rotation L’Occitane Citrus Verbena, Ormonde Jayne Tiare, Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling and Atelier Bergamot de Soleil. Is it possible for for a lemon scent to possess a decent sillage? The lovely scents listed above seem to wear very close to the skin, and I hanker for a scent that marries citrus lusciousness with projection and presence. Would anyone have a recommendation I might try? Thank you so much! October 24, 2016 at 7:59am Reply

    • Allison C.: Guerlain made a fragrance called Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat which is a fabulous lemony scent, but I’m not sure how available it is. October 24, 2016 at 9:56am Reply

    • Bianca: I don’t know it this falls into the category you’re looking for but my boyfriend has the Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire and I sometimes borrow it. 🙂 I think it has a pretty decent sillage for a lemon scent. October 24, 2016 at 9:56am Reply

      • Elisa: FM’s Eau Magnolia is also nicely lemony! October 28, 2016 at 11:52am Reply

        • Surbhi: It lasts almost full day on me though it smells more bergamot on me than lemon. October 28, 2016 at 10:54pm Reply

    • spe: Frances Kurkdjian Pour le Matin – there is a newer one now – is lemony and lasts. October 24, 2016 at 10:25am Reply

    • Hamamelis: Hi Maryjane, a luscious citrus, beautiful and with lots of presence is Mona di Orio’s Eau Absolue. It is pricey, but if you are lucky you can find the much cheaper travel set consisting of roller balls, which I use and they provide enough sillage. October 24, 2016 at 10:26am Reply

    • foxbins: Profumum Roma’s Acqua Viva is the best lemon scent I have found. It doesn’t last long but while it does sillage and projection are excellent. October 24, 2016 at 11:22am Reply

      • SHMW: second this, it is very vivid too …. October 25, 2016 at 5:55pm Reply

    • Darinka DAlessio: How about O de Lancome? October 24, 2016 at 11:50am Reply

    • Klaas: I’m a big fan of citrus fragrances myself, and indeed, citrussy notes are usually quite volatile… they don’t last long and don’t carry. However, do check out Cedrat Intense (Parfums de Nicolai), Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat (Guerlain) or Whip (Le Galion) for some citrus with a kick! I hope you like them! October 24, 2016 at 1:40pm Reply

    • Aurora: Eau de Rochas, which I wear each summer, is a beautiful mineral citrus and lasts very well on my skin. October 24, 2016 at 5:40pm Reply

    • Tati: Hi Maryjane, I love citrus scents. Two of my favorite ones that might be closer to lemon than orange are Fleur de Citronnier by Lutens which has the lemon blossom combined with musk, and Profumum Neroli, which is neroli and myrrh. It lasts a long time. October 24, 2016 at 6:39pm Reply

    • irem: I find Mito EdP by Vero Kern to be a citrus (+chypre) with a beautiful silage. While it is not strictly lemon, I find it related to OJ’s Tiare on your list. October 24, 2016 at 7:29pm Reply

      • PrincessTonk: Oh, I agree. Mito EdP is perfect with that lemony beginning that softens with the chypre so beautifully and yet maintains sillage. And the two previous posts of Eau de Rochas and Fleur de Citronnier! Perfect tries for a lemon lover. October 24, 2016 at 10:50pm Reply

        • Christine: I am also a huge fan of Mito edp and Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier! October 30, 2016 at 3:49pm Reply

    • Maryjane Morris: Thank you all for your generous and thoughtful suggestions! I have compiled a list to be worked through enthusiastically xx October 24, 2016 at 9:11pm Reply

    • george: The one scent with a decent lemony projection I have used is contradiction for men. Plus if you want to maintain the lemony aspect of any scent, spray on fabric (taking due care of course) October 25, 2016 at 7:57am Reply

    • limegreen: A little late, and second many of the recommendations made above, but here’s something off the radar, but on the affordable side:
      Laura Mercier Lemon Verbena (it’s close to the discontinued Jo Malone Lemon Verbena but with more oomph in sillage)

      I love the LM Tea Menthe Citron if you like a little tea with the citrus and mint. October 25, 2016 at 9:56am Reply

    • Mariann: Also late (no decent internet for two days), I found Cologne Indelible Frederic Malle to have a lot of citrus and musk and lasting a good while on me. October 27, 2016 at 2:02am Reply

    • Patricia: Has anyone mentioned L’Eau d’Hadrien by Annick Goutal yet? I find it very powerful (for a citrus) and long lasting. October 27, 2016 at 11:48am Reply

    • Liz: What about JO Loves White Rose and Lemon Leaves or Juliette Has a Gun Gentlewoman. Both have a slight aspect of Bronnley Kemkn Soap if you remember the smell. The former is stronger I think. November 6, 2016 at 5:35pm Reply

  • Heather H: Hello Friends,

    I am looking to buy another Amouage fragrance for Fall/Winter, but I am having trouble deciding which one. I have Gold. I am a big floral lover. I live in Southern California so it rarely is too cold. Any recommendations? Thank you! October 24, 2016 at 9:04am Reply

    • Austenfan: While I’m not familiar with all the Amouages, the one that immediately sprang to mind is Beloved. Maybe just because it’s my second favourite Amouage after Gold. Another one that you might like is Amouage Opus III. October 24, 2016 at 9:29am Reply

    • Sylviane: Hello heather I second Opus III and would suggest Ubar or the new Lilac Love. October 24, 2016 at 9:55am Reply

    • Audrey: I would recommend lyric, epic, or Opus viii. They are both ‘big’ fragrances with spice and/or incense notes over gorgeous florals. October 24, 2016 at 10:06am Reply

    • Kelly Heaton: My favorite Amouage perfume is “Journey.” It’s a skillful blend of osmanthus with the texture of cypriol and underlying milky notes. Very unique and lovely to wear. October 24, 2016 at 10:14am Reply

      • Hamamelis: I second Journey, I get a lot of honey from it. October 24, 2016 at 10:27am Reply

        • Cornelia Blimber: I love Amouage Dia. It has the classy style reminding me of Grace Kelly. October 24, 2016 at 11:48am Reply

          • Austenfan: Dia is a great suggestion, it’s a lighter take on Gold in some ways. October 24, 2016 at 1:01pm Reply

            • Malmaison: I also adore Dia and have been mulling a full bottle for some time. The Grace Kelly analogy is perfect. October 24, 2016 at 2:53pm Reply

        • Austenfan: You know, I can’t remember Journey at all. I tried a lot of Amouages a year ago, or so. And Honour, and Journey and whatever became sort of muddled in my mind. I remember that one of them was a definite no no. But I think it was Honour.
          Fate sort of stood out, and Memoir. And from the Opus series I can only really remember III. October 24, 2016 at 3:50pm Reply

          • Patricia: Second Memoir Woman! I love the incense in it for fall and winter. October 27, 2016 at 11:49am Reply

      • sandra: second journey October 24, 2016 at 3:34pm Reply

    • maja: You could like Dia, a lighter floral but it may be too similat to Gold. My favorite is Beloved, so fantastic and actually very good in the heat too.
      Journey is a good one as well. And I must be the only one who likes the recent Amouage Myths, a green floral. 🙂 October 24, 2016 at 2:39pm Reply

      • Austenfan: I’ve fallen for Myths in a major way. It’s great. So you are not quite alone in liking it. October 24, 2016 at 3:51pm Reply

        • maja: Oh, great. Honestly, I expected the worst after some of the reviews and then when I sampled it I thought it was so well made. 🙂 October 24, 2016 at 4:13pm Reply

    • Heather H: Thanks so much for your help and suggestions. I decided to sample Dia, Lyric, Ubar, and Lilac Love. Dia will probably be the number one choice as one of my favorite perfumers created the perfume and goes perfectly with Gold. I cannot go wrong with Jean-Claude Ellena. Thank you for making the decision clearer. October 24, 2016 at 4:12pm Reply

      • Bettina: Heather I live in Brisbane, Australia so similar weather considerations to California. I fell in love with Ubar and have a full bottle. You will like Lyric, but also I have samples of Sunshine for Women and Opus VIII which are very tempting. October 25, 2016 at 4:12am Reply

    • Connie: Stepping in because it doesn’t look like anyone suggested Jubilation 25 🙂 October 28, 2016 at 7:50am Reply

      • Susan: Great suggestion, Connie.
        The lush and elegant Jubilation 25 is my favourite Amouage. I just adore the solid perfume in the lovely travel compact.
        Another wonderful autumn fragrance is Ex Idolo 33, a velvety oud. October 28, 2016 at 1:17pm Reply

  • Mare: I recently traveled to Paris, and our first stop was the Caron boutique. I live in the USA, and, other than owning a small decant of Aimez Moi and reading your wonderful articles here, was not too familiar with the Caron line. The store manger was very helpful, but I was overwhelmed by jet lag and the beautiful bottles. I made my purchase, and as I was paying my bill, my bag was being wrapped in the lovely polka dot tissue paper, and placed in the bag were four samples. One of the samples is Bellodgia. Whenever I wear it, I feel so happy and grounded. I tried searching for Bellodgia, and some articles say it has been discontinued?? This makes no sense because I was just given a sample last month. I enjoy wearing it so much. My question is: does anyone here know if Bellodgia is no longer produced ? October 24, 2016 at 9:28am Reply

    • Adrienne: I have been buying vintage bottles online. The newer one is only an e Ho of the original. It reminds me of deep red carnations, cloves. October 24, 2016 at 10:10am Reply

      • Adrienne: Sorry….’echo’. October 24, 2016 at 10:12am Reply

    • Marina N: It’s called Piu Bellodgia – the new version, as the original was discontinued October 24, 2016 at 10:15am Reply

    • Bela: The Caron boutique wouldn’t have given you a sample of one of their fragrances if it had been discontinued. Les Senteurs in London doesn’t offer it (they have one called Più Bellodgia). It’s possible Bellodgia is now *only* available at the Caron boutique. October 24, 2016 at 10:16am Reply

      • Bela: Oh, I see you’ve got answers to your question. 🙂 October 24, 2016 at 10:17am Reply

      • Barqs: That is what I figured. Why give me a sample of something no longer produced. If they only sell it in Paris, I wish I would have purchased a bottle at the Caron Boutique.

        Oh well, maybe I’ll go back to Paris one day. October 24, 2016 at 12:48pm Reply

        • Laris: Barq’s. I live in NYC and there is a Caron Boutique in midtown. Give them a call, I’m sure they’d be happy to help you October 24, 2016 at 4:21pm Reply

          • Barqs: Thank you. Good to know. I’ll try calling tomorrow. October 24, 2016 at 8:40pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Why don’t you try a vintage “Bellodgia” from Ebay. I have bought the extrait as well as the eau de toilette. And I find—without exception—that all the older, i.e. vintage Caron perfumes are in a quite different quality league compared to the new ones. October 24, 2016 at 3:11pm Reply

      • Barqs: I will check ebay. I have not purchased anything from ebay in a very long time, and I am just out of the loop with savvy purchasing information/strategies. October 24, 2016 at 8:42pm Reply

    • Nina Z: Definitely try buying a bottle of vintage Bellodgia on ebay or elsewhere. It’s better than the new version, and I’m betting you can find it cheaper than the new if you’re patient. The extrait is expensive these days, but I got a real good deal on some PdT, which is gorgeous. To ensure an older bottle, look for the box with the black and white sunburst design as opposed to the dots. October 26, 2016 at 11:02am Reply

    • Mia: Also online in First in Fragrance
      and Annindriya

      I believe they both ship to US.

      Good luck! I’m a Caron lover, too. October 27, 2016 at 2:36pm Reply

      • Mare: Thank you so much for the Caron buying information. I’ve enjoyed the other two samples given to me with my purchase also (fleurs de rocaille and accord 119), but Bellodgia is very special. November 6, 2016 at 7:42am Reply

  • Mary: I am looking for a warm, smoky fragrance that has some vanilla but not sweet or cloying. Like Eau Duelle but a little deeper and dirtier. Thank you for your recommendations. October 24, 2016 at 10:09am Reply

    • Audrey: I recommend Guerlain Bois D’armenie! It doesn’t list vanilla in the notes but it’s a big part of what I get in the scent…… October 24, 2016 at 10:22am Reply

    • Tomate Farcie: some to try: CB I Hate Perfume 7 Bilion Hearts, Parfumerie Generale Felanilla, Parfums de Nicolai Vanille Tonka October 24, 2016 at 12:10pm Reply

    • Marie: I second PG Felanilla + you might like Mona di Orio Vanille and Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114 (more Amber than Vanilla but it’s warm and a bit smoky) 😉 Good luck! October 24, 2016 at 1:45pm Reply

    • kpaint: I love the smoky vanilla note in Shalimar Ode à la Vanille – Sur la route du Mexique and in Dame Perfumery Black Flower Mexican Vanilla, although in the latter it’s the primary accord. I don’t find either sweet or cloying, but YMMV.

      And while I haven’t smelled it myself, Aftelier Vanilla Smoke might be worth trying. October 24, 2016 at 3:36pm Reply

      • Aurora: I second Kayliz’s recommendation of Shalimar sur la Route du Mexique in which you will get smoke and a beautiful not too sweet vanilla. But as it is discontinued, perhaps try plain Shalimar Eau de Parfum concentration I get plenty of vanilla too. October 24, 2016 at 5:48pm Reply

        • Aurora: I meant I second you, kpaint, sorry for mixing up names! October 24, 2016 at 5:50pm Reply

    • BettyeA: I recommend Tauerville Vanilla Flash: smoky, tobacco-y, warm vanilla, not at all sweet or cloying. Also quite affordable. CB I Hate Perfume’s 7 Billion Hearts is another option, but warning, I found it VERY smoky. Worth a sniff, though. October 24, 2016 at 8:35pm Reply

    • PrincessTonk: There is something about Vanille Exquise (Goutal) – not exactly smoky, but between smoky and maybe…camphorous? It is enchanting. October 24, 2016 at 10:59pm Reply

    • Mary: Thank you everyone for your recommendations. They sound so enticing and I want to try them all! October 25, 2016 at 2:04pm Reply

    • Kari: Imaginary Authors Memoirs of a Trespasser is a really wonderful dark, warm vanilla that I love-and with excellent staying power. October 25, 2016 at 8:23pm Reply

    • Kirstyn: I just tried Elizabeth and James Bourbon, and could have sworn it was Eau Duelle, but deeper and mussed up with a little magnolia. I really liked it. October 25, 2016 at 9:42pm Reply

      • Mary: Hi Kirstyn,

        That is interesting about E&J Bourbon, as I felt that way about the Nirvana Black when I tried it. It was very Eau Duelle-ish only a little heavier on the patchouli. October 26, 2016 at 2:09pm Reply

    • Kiki: For smoky-sultry vanilla I recommend trying Atelier des Ors Lune Feline or Mona di Orio Vanille. October 26, 2016 at 5:10pm Reply

    • Patricia: It’s expensive, but it might be worth sampling Cuir Beluga by Guerlain. Soft leather and vanilla are perfect for fall (and it reminds me of Eau Duelle, but warmer and richer). October 27, 2016 at 11:53am Reply

    • Elisa: Sonoma Scent Studios Winter Woods! Or Tea for Two October 28, 2016 at 11:53am Reply

    • Surbhi: Musc ravageur. Most people either love it or hate it… I say try it and see it how you like it initially but definitely smell it 15-20 mins later and then later in the day. Nothing smells better to me in fall / winter/ rainy / foggy weather.

      I don’t smell smoky/incense in it though. October 28, 2016 at 11:01pm Reply

    • mendokuse: Have you ever tried Bvlgari Black? October 30, 2016 at 5:40pm Reply

  • Annunziata: I love chypres, they have always been my favorite perfumes, but it is so hard to find something with a really satisfying blast of oakmoss. I do wear Patou’s 1000 often, and love it. I like Amouage Beloved, but it was a little too poised and soft for me. I plan to try to get a sample of Abdes Salaam’s Oakmoss, and in the meantime have ordered a small decant of Samurai which I believe is supposed to be similar? Any suggestions from other devotees of green/woodsy fragrances would be appreciated! October 24, 2016 at 10:51am Reply

    • kayliz: Oakmoss is restricted these days, but I get quite a bit from:

      Oriza L. Legrand: Chypre-Mousse (eccentric)
      Jean-Louis Scherrer Eau de Toilette (classic)

      Not green enough?:
      Bogue: Maai
      Divine: Divine
      MDCI: Chypre Palatin

      Not mossy enough?:
      Hiram Green: Shangri La
      Scherrer: One Love October 24, 2016 at 11:43am Reply

      • Cornelia Blimber: Second Scherrer (the classic).

        Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss. Very sharp green! October 24, 2016 at 12:21pm Reply

    • Kitty Van Halen: Soivohle Green Oakmoss would fit the bill. I honestly have no idea if Piguet’s Futur is a chypre, but to me it’s a neon green version of Bandit. I actually wear the two together sometimes, which I realize sounds like the perfume equivalent of an atom bomb. October 24, 2016 at 12:44pm Reply

      • Annunziata: Thank you all for those very helpful suggestions — I will be checking them all out. October 24, 2016 at 12:53pm Reply

        • Annunziata: A green atomic bomb is probably what I am looking for, at least when home alone. 😀 October 24, 2016 at 12:53pm Reply

          • Tomate Farcie: Kayliz gave you a great list! I’d add the original green bomb Balmain Vent Vert and an affordable chypre Jacomo Silences October 24, 2016 at 1:22pm Reply

            • Annunziata: Merci, Tomate (writing that was the best thing I’ve gotten to do today). I realize that never having sought out Vent Vert (I had presumed it was hopelessly reformulated) is a serious omission. And yes, all the suggestions are excellent, I appreciate them. October 24, 2016 at 2:37pm Reply

              • Annunziata: I just found Victoria’s comparison of the vintage and reformulations, I had missed this. And her post also made me think I must try Bel Respiro. (I liked 31 Rue Cambon but it was far too transitory on me, this was disappointing). October 24, 2016 at 2:46pm Reply

                • Tomate Farcie: then there’s always Chanel #19 vintage
                  I do love Bel Respiro! have fun, you’ve got some great ones to try! October 24, 2016 at 2:54pm Reply

            • Aurora: Sorry, Tomate Farcie, I hadn’t seen you had already recommended Silences. October 24, 2016 at 8:07pm Reply

              • Tomate Farcie: Aurora, no worries, I take validation anywhere I can get it! October 25, 2016 at 11:03am Reply

            • PrincessTonk: Yeah, Silences is a bomb and so affordable. October 24, 2016 at 11:04pm Reply

      • Cornelia Blimber: Hi Kitty! Yes! Futur is a bitter chypre. I wear it a lot, how could i forget it1 October 24, 2016 at 2:40pm Reply

    • spe: So many popular “green” chypres have a plastic note to me. One that I really like is Sisley’s Eau de Soir. It’s gorgeous (ignore the rants of the well known male critic). October 24, 2016 at 1:28pm Reply

      • Annunziata: On to my list it goes. And I will have to look up the rants, my curiosity was piqued. October 24, 2016 at 2:41pm Reply

    • Neva: Hi Annunziata, I too love chypres and miss them nowadays a lot. Recently I have discovered a perfume which to me has totally this old school chypre vibe. It’s called Christopher Street from Charenton Macerations. Please DO try it if you can. October 24, 2016 at 3:51pm Reply

      • Annunziata: Thank you, Neva! I will certainly try to give it a sniff. And yes, I do miss the great chypres. October 24, 2016 at 5:18pm Reply

      • Phyllis Iervello: I love Christopher Steet…and the fact that it is in a small bottle. October 24, 2016 at 7:21pm Reply

    • Aurora: Also, Silences, the vintage was very heavy on the oakmoss front and the modern one is still lovely, green, green, green. October 24, 2016 at 5:53pm Reply

    • Nina Z: Modern mainstream perfumes can no longer use much oakmoss, however, some American indie perfumes still do. For the real stuff, you could try Aftelier Bergamoss. But it’s pricey.

      Otherwise, I recommend you turn to vintage perfumes. Although vintage extrait is usually expensive, you can still find reasonably priced bottles of vintage EdT in Mitsouko, Cabochard, etc. October 26, 2016 at 11:07am Reply

    • Mia: A bit late in here but Vero Profumo Mito is a wonderful chypre as well as of course Mitsouko, preferably vintage or after 2013 reformulations. October 27, 2016 at 2:43pm Reply

  • Chin C.: I m looking for something with a floral top or heart (not too sweet) together with a solid woody base.

    I love santal majuscule and find this suits me very well but am looking for something new!

    Understand that the oud rose combo maybe a good choice but would like to know the friendlier ones which does not scream Oooooud!

    Thankssss October 24, 2016 at 11:07am Reply

    • Tomate Farcie: Parfumerie Generale Cadjmere, Guerlain Samsara, Chanel Bois des Isles, Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d’Iris, Serge Luttens Bois de Violette, Chanel #19 October 24, 2016 at 12:40pm Reply

    • Kitty Van Halen: Ormonde Jayne Woman? October 24, 2016 at 12:46pm Reply

      • Mia: Seconding! October 27, 2016 at 2:44pm Reply

    • maja: By Kilian Rose Oud doesn’t scream oooooud, it is somehow transparent and you can actually breathe around it. 🙂 October 24, 2016 at 2:43pm Reply

    • Aurora: One of my favorite woody floral is Hermes Caleche. October 24, 2016 at 5:58pm Reply

    • Tati: I like Santal Majuscule also, but when I want something lighter I switch to 10 Corso Como. October 25, 2016 at 3:05am Reply

    • Chin C.: Really so many wonderful suggestions. Will be busy sampling next few weeks when my samples arrive 🙂 thanks all October 25, 2016 at 10:54am Reply

    • AnnieA: Chin C, Jo Malone’s Velvet Rose and Oud is quite pretty, if not the cheapest thing out there. October 26, 2016 at 5:17pm Reply

    • Kiki: Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood is this year’s love affair for me. I normally avoid rose, but here it’s a lovely oriental, almost gourmand vanilla with soft, delicate oud. Smells like Turkish delight made with rose water. October 26, 2016 at 5:21pm Reply

  • Cheri: I am trying a sample of Derek Lam 10 Crosby Ellipsis. When I first spray it on it has a lovely floral top note, then quickly dries down to something that makes me think of a library in which a vanilla candle is glowing. ( I’m a real bookworm, so the library reference is a good thing). Not much sillage. Can anyone suggest something similar with better sillage? October 24, 2016 at 11:34am Reply

    • Tomate Farcie: Guerlain Samsara October 24, 2016 at 2:30pm Reply

  • Trudy: Any suggestions for a nice cologne for a 17 year old boy? Very athletic and involved in sports. Loves the beach. I’d say his style is classic and clean. October 24, 2016 at 12:13pm Reply

    • Cornelia Blimber: Thierry Mugler Eau de Cologne. October 24, 2016 at 12:23pm Reply

      • maja: Second Mugler’s Cologne. October 24, 2016 at 4:14pm Reply

      • Trudy: I read about this one. I will check it out. Thank you for the suggestion. October 24, 2016 at 7:58pm Reply

    • Audrey patchett: My 15 year old love Chanel allure sport edition Blanche and the original. Bond Wall Street is a good one for that age too (actually, on any age). Parfums de Marley ispazon and Lalique hommage a l’homme would also do well. October 24, 2016 at 12:26pm Reply

      • Trudy: Thank you for the recommendation. I will add these to my list to try. October 24, 2016 at 8:01pm Reply

    • Kitty Van Halen: Goutal’s Eau d’Hadrien is a nice “starter scent” for young men. I don’t know if L’artisan Cote d’Amour is still available, but for someone who loves the beach, it’s got that “salt and sand” driftwood thing going on, and is a pretty mellow scent. October 24, 2016 at 12:50pm Reply

      • Trudy: Oooh the L’artisan sounds very nice. Thank you. October 24, 2016 at 8:02pm Reply

    • Marie: I like the simple but genius Infusion d’Homme by Prada. It is classic, has a cologne feel and is mainstream enough for a 17 yrs old. Also, it’s easy to find in the mall. October 24, 2016 at 1:48pm Reply

      • Trudy: Thank you…I will check it out at Nordstrom, sounds very nice. October 24, 2016 at 7:57pm Reply

    • Klaas: If he likes clean and classic: Chanel pour Monsieur! I started wearing it when I was 14….It is soooo classy, and has a light, sunny, cheerfull character. And then there’s Eau Sauvage by Dior, of course. Another classic, also very young, elegant and maybe a bit more sportsy then the Chanel one. They are also reasonably priced, compared to the more exclusive niche brands. October 24, 2016 at 1:52pm Reply

      • Klaas: Ok, now I can’t stop 😉 Vetiver by Guerlain is also very, very nice, but maybe a bit more complex than the other two. They did a lighter sports version some time ago, maybe they still do. Could be worth a try as well. Do realize that the young man will become an instant perfume snob once used to these wonderfull fragrances! October 24, 2016 at 2:10pm Reply

        • Trudy: Thank you for such great suggestions! I will take my list and go shopping. Yes I imagine he will become very selective:) October 24, 2016 at 7:55pm Reply

    • Bastet: My sporty son’s favorite is Guerlain homme. He also likes Lalique Encre Noir. October 24, 2016 at 6:21pm Reply

      • Trudy: Thank you for these suggestions to add to my list. October 24, 2016 at 8:09pm Reply

    • Lily: Tom Ford’s Grey Vetiver came to mind. To me it is “dashing preppy boy” scent in the best possible way. I am not crazy about vetiver so I only know that from a Sephora sample, it may be similar to or lesser than others mentioned. But especially if you are inclined to get him some samples and let him choose, it’s easily had! October 24, 2016 at 9:40pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: I just went through the same inquiry for a teenaged boy, also very sporty. I offered Davidoff Cool Water, which was well received by him AND his sisters, who approved! I also wanted to choose something affordable that he could buy himself, or they could afford to give him as a gift in the future. October 24, 2016 at 9:48pm Reply

  • Cornelia Blimber: That carpet with cats is priceless! That movement with one paw is characteristic for cats. October 24, 2016 at 12:24pm Reply

  • Delilah V: Hello lovely humans, so I would love some suggestions for essentially the most decadent scent in the world. I’ve had enough minimalism and temperance I want to smell like a naked 18th century courtesan or a rule-breaking boundary-crossing world-travelling leather-clad adventuress.

    These can be perfume or otherwise (Beeswax absolute in low dilution is so glorious) But just to make things difficult/interesting here are some caveats –

    I despise all flowers except some of the tropical variety for example ylang-ylang which can be quite lovely

    Suggestions must feel very warm (if I could bottle the smell of gold or baking hot sand I’d be halfway to scent heaven)

    I’d like two different scents still within the same scent family but one musky and the other not (the latter is to scent my hair and I don’t think hair should smell like skin)

    I’m not traditionally feminine, never wear dresses or makeup and prefer to take the lead in all areas of my life *wink* But I thoroughly dislike androgynous perfumes so instead of smelling neither masculine or feminine I want to smell both masculine AND feminine

    Lastly no scents by the Olfactive studio please I find the entire current line offensive. There’s just something in their formulations that makes me instantly nauseous.

    Thank you for indulging me so far, looking forward to being mesmerised by your suggestions! October 24, 2016 at 1:01pm Reply

    • Tomate Farcie: Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur, second La Myrrhe and add Lutens Boxeuses , Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde and Tilda Swinton Like This October 24, 2016 at 2:48pm Reply

      • Delilah V: Thank you, La Fin du Monde smells of peanuts and butter and Boxeuses of iris and liquorice none of which I enjoy. Musc Ravageur is beautiful but an old lover used to wear it exclusively. October 25, 2016 at 6:10am Reply

        • Michaela: What about Etat Libre d’Orange Rien? October 25, 2016 at 7:24am Reply

          • Figuier: Seconding Rien. This is a mesmerizing bounary-breaking scent. Hard to describe without making it sound banal, but it definitely has that tension between attraction and repulsion. October 25, 2016 at 10:39am Reply

      • Surbhi: Frederic malle musc ravageur. odin no 12, noir epics, cherungi by lutens. but if i have to pick one ..musc ravageur. October 28, 2016 at 11:09pm Reply

    • kayliz: Rich warm leathers:
      Serge Lutens: Cuir Mauresque
      Papillon: Anubis
      Toned-down version:
      Parfums d’Empire: Cuir Ottoman

      Naked courtesan:
      Papillon: Salome
      Having trouble imagining what this would be without the skin scents, though.

      Definitely not going to mention the fearsome Muscs Koublai Khan. October 24, 2016 at 3:17pm Reply

      • kayliz: I forgot
        Vero Profumo: Onda
        and possibly Rubj.

        Onda: the Voile d’Extrait is already deep, honeyed, animalic; the Eau de Parfum cranks up the animalic side. Don’t write off one before trying the other!

        Rubj: the Voile d’Extrait may be too floral. The EdP isn’t big on the flowers, imo. October 24, 2016 at 3:18pm Reply

        • Delilah V: Lovely suggestions here kayliz thank you, ordered samples of Anubis, Salome and Onda from this list. Muscs Koublai Khan was a joy to sniff except for all those roses and the oft recommended kiehls musk smelled like baby skin after being kissed by a heavily scented aunt. October 25, 2016 at 5:12am Reply

          • Indigo: Anubis was the one that came to mind reading your description. I love Salome too but it is much more floral. Anubis has the heat! October 25, 2016 at 4:40pm Reply

          • kayliz: Oh good — don’t you dare not report back!

            And thank you for the beeswax absolute hint. Looking for a source:) October 25, 2016 at 5:13pm Reply

      • Kari: Salome and Anubis pair very well together too-in an intense, beautiful, sultry way. November 1, 2016 at 4:32pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Gosh, that a tall order, but a most intriguing one too!
      If I envisage the scent in question, it would be a modern Arabian-market style, niche perfume like the Sultan Pasha range. Or you’d be looking at vintage perfumes when civet, ambergris and tobacco were no olfactory swearwords…!
      Why don’t you look for a vintage “Bal de Versaille”, I don’t find it particularly floral. What about some old Guerlain Shalimar? That definitely feels warm. Or if ylang-ylang seems okay, “1000” by Patou?
      Yet ultimately, Serge Lutens sounds the best: what about his “Ambre Sultan”? October 24, 2016 at 3:28pm Reply

      • Delilah V: I’ve never heard of Sultan Pasha (and he’s a Londoner like myself don’t know how I missed his work) I’m now very curious after reading a few scent descriptions so many thanks.

        Bal de Versaille is just too powdery for me, sneeze inducing infact. Patou’s 1000 is wonderful but much much too ladylike. Must get my greedy hands on some vintage Shalimar and I’ve ordered a sample of Ambre Sultan which I hadn’t tried for some reason. By the way “on wings of saffron” is a sweet turn of phrase. October 25, 2016 at 5:54am Reply

    • Kitty Van Halen: Patou Chaldee. October 24, 2016 at 4:03pm Reply

      • Delilah V: Thank you I’ve ordered a sample of this. October 25, 2016 at 6:13am Reply

    • Steve L.: Caron Yatagan: unique and not a fruit or flower in sight. Somewhat daring but that might be what you’re looking for. October 24, 2016 at 7:20pm Reply

      • Delilah V: Ah yes yatagan an excellent fragrance, does have the feel of an adventurer about it. But much much too green! The lack of heat combined with annoying amounts of pine AND watercress render this sexless. October 25, 2016 at 6:26am Reply

    • Caroline: If you’re in the States, 2 from indie perfume co DSH spring to mind: Parfum de Grasse, while a floral, features a prominent beeswax facet. Based on other criteria mentioned, you might like Parfum de Luxe…as I recall, it’s a bit more androgynous. Love ylang too, and recently got a sample of Lorenzo Villoresi Ylang Ylang–wonderful but femme! It’s going on my wishlist. October 24, 2016 at 11:39pm Reply

      • Delilah V: Lorenzo Villoresi’s Ylang Ylang is incredibly beautiful! Sophisticated but sensual, haven’t come across anyone wearing it unfortunately. But like you said it’s definitively feminine and much more ladylike than I aspire to be.

        I live in London but I just looked up Parfum de Luxe and it’s a vintage style tabac described as eclectic, suave and luxurious so clearly I must order a sample. Luckily they ship internationally, many thanks Caroline. October 25, 2016 at 6:45am Reply

    • Tati: Hi Delilah, What fun! Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady (feminine and masculine), Andy Tauer L’Air du Desert Marocain (baking sand), Ex Idolo Ryder (amber and tobacco), Etat Libre Rossy de Palma (sensual and earthy). October 25, 2016 at 3:21am Reply

      • Delilah V: Hello Tati, I’ve looked up each scent you’ve listed as I haven’t tried any of them and they sound so eclectic/decadent I’ve ordered a sample of each. Even if some might lean too feminine for my tastes I’m very intrigued, thank you. October 25, 2016 at 7:15am Reply

        • Tati: One more for that leather-wearing adventuress: George, by Jardins D’Ecrivains. I recently bought it and it smells like nothing else in my collection. Top notes are neroli, tobacco, and myrrh. It gets lots of compliments. October 25, 2016 at 4:15pm Reply

          • kayliz: Oh, I recently discovered George too and it /almost/ made me wish I still smoked. Would go fantastically with cigarettes — or cigars;) October 25, 2016 at 6:09pm Reply

            • kayliz: — typo: for “George” please read “the wonderful George”–
              🙂 October 25, 2016 at 6:11pm Reply

              • Austenfan: George is just gorgeous. It reminds me a little of the drydown of Beloved. October 26, 2016 at 12:41pm Reply

      • Adrienne: Hey there Delilah. Etat Libre Rossy de Palma is glorious. My new favourite. Used 4ozs in less than a year. It is intensely Bulgarian rose, spicy, warm, incensy in my opinion, very feminine, but lasts for 24 hours on my skin. Rarely achieved. My latest favourite is Black Prestgium by Mancera….an astonishing perfume that signals middle eastern spice dessert markets, heat, hot sand, long nights. Lasts about 18 hours on me. Very unusual. Attracts comments and questions. October 25, 2016 at 9:12am Reply

    • george: I too distinguish between those scents that are unisex (what you call androgynous) and those which are masculine and feminine combined. Androgynous scents, for me, however, are those with both masculine and feminine elements and a unisex element.
      Anyway, masculine and feminine combined is actually what Angel and all it’s ilk are- heavy wood base and gourmand and floral stuff on top, but I imagine you have tried all those, and anyway they all have florals in them.
      Anyway, I’d look Patchouli 24 Le Labo (i think this is really the scent for you) and Absolue Pour Le Soir. October 25, 2016 at 1:10pm Reply

    • Kari: Not sure if it would be your cuppa tea but Viktoria Minya’s Hedonist is very much in that ballpark and is worth considering. Golden, luxurious (rum and ripe peach.) I find Hongrie less juicy (wine vs. rum) and more honeyed/vanillic, but clearly related to Hedonist. October 25, 2016 at 8:39pm Reply

    • Surbhi: Please let us know which one you pick. Loving this post and all the suggestions. Nice puzzle. October 28, 2016 at 11:11pm Reply

    • Katy McReynolds: I think you should definitely try Olympic Orchids Devil Scents 1-4. A sublimely orchestrated exercise in incense, wood and leather with nary a flower in sight. I am seconding Papillon Anubis and Salome. October 30, 2016 at 6:03pm Reply

    • hajusuuri: L’Occitane Immortelle de Corse. Sadly discontinued. November 2, 2016 at 11:03pm Reply

    • Liz: Whst about Juliette Has a Gun Another Oud or Citizen Queen? I love the latter. The former is rich and unusual but beautiful layered with Gentlewoman or Anyway from the same collection.

      If you by a scent sample set from the french website. They will deduct the price from your first bottle. Some of the others in the collection were a bit disappointing. November 6, 2016 at 5:43pm Reply

  • spe: Nu (but that may not be warm enough) by YSL and something from Serge – the Myrrhe one – La Myrrhe? I think that’s what it’s called. October 24, 2016 at 1:33pm Reply

    • spe: Forgot Cabochard by Gres. October 24, 2016 at 1:40pm Reply

      • OnWingsofSaffron: Yes that sounds good: to me, it also has that somewhat 1960’s, Sartre & de Beauvoir, bistro ashtray feel too it. October 24, 2016 at 3:32pm Reply

        • spe: Yes! Cabochard is the most male and female scent I know – now that I think about it Miss Dior Originale also fits that description. Neither wears exceptionally “warm” on me, but they could on a different chemistry. Other options could be Equipage or Bel Ami, by Hermes. October 25, 2016 at 12:10am Reply

          • Delilah V: I’ve just blind bought Gres’ Cabochard so fingers crossed! Bel Ami definitely comes across as powerful but that soapy lavender is revolting. Also have a few Lutens samples on the way, many thanks. October 25, 2016 at 7:06am Reply

            • Michaela: Finger crossed! 🙂 I’m curious how you find Cabochard. October 25, 2016 at 7:27am Reply

              • Cornelia Blimber: Lots of wonderful suggestions.
                Maybe there is still room for Route du Vetiver (Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier). Warm, smoky, no flowers. Very good with whisky and a cigarette.
                If you are in the mood for something more feminine, you can layer with some flowers. October 26, 2016 at 8:16am Reply

      • spe: Forgot Bandit. Might be just a little floral, but what a fabulous fragrance. Also, Azuree by Lauder might work beautifully. Please let us know what you decide! October 28, 2016 at 9:28am Reply

  • Klaas: Hello ladies and gents,
    I love woody scents, but I find most difficult to wear, since they tend to lean towards the oriental, gourmand or mysterious (insence) side of the perfume spectrum. For myself I prefer someting a bit more sobre and discreet. So I was wondering if anyone knows about a very dry, salty wood fragrance? Something minimalistic, discreet, but with lots of character……..suggestions? October 24, 2016 at 1:34pm Reply

    • spe: Jil Sander lll, but very tough to find October 24, 2016 at 1:42pm Reply

    • Chin C.: Diptyque Tam Dao? Edt is warmer and easier to wear while edp has more personality

      CdG x monocle hinoki
      CdG x monocle sugi

      These are the woodiest fragrance that I know of and I love them!!! October 24, 2016 at 1:47pm Reply

    • Marie: I also had to think of Tam Dao, however as you’re looking for something salty: maybe Hermes Eau de Merveilles? It’s also quite subtle and discreet enough. October 24, 2016 at 1:51pm Reply

      • Cornelia Blimber: Maybe Living Lalique. Woody with some iris. October 24, 2016 at 2:44pm Reply

    • rainboweyes: The Different Company Sel de Vetiver? October 24, 2016 at 3:20pm Reply

    • Austenfan: A real dry woody scent is Lutens Chêne. It almost doesn’t feel like an oriental, or a Lutens for that matter.
      For salty I recommend Sel Marin by Heeley. A dry and airy vetiver, and I wholeheartedly second the recommendation of Eau des Merveilles. October 24, 2016 at 3:54pm Reply

    • Laris: Take a look at Sonoma Scent Studio
      Laurie Erickson does some lovely work…many with woods- forest walk, winter woods. Her descriptions are pretty accurate and like nothing I smell coming and going October 24, 2016 at 4:39pm Reply

    • george: Rather than salty, why not try peppery- the new black pepper by Comme Des Garcons. A sort of black pepper version of men’s encre noir (another fragrance you might like). In fact there’s a lot in the Comme des Garcons range that might fit your brief- floriental, wonderwood, and others. Jo Malone also does Wood sage and sea salt, which I have not tried, but by name seems like a must try for you. October 24, 2016 at 5:47pm Reply

      • Patricia: Second Wood Sage and Sea Salt, but may be more mainstream than you are looking for. October 27, 2016 at 11:58am Reply

    • Aurora: Klaas: I too find the Eau des Merveilles suggestion, by Marie, a really good one and add Elixir des Merveilles for winter if you don’t find it sweet, I don’t, but my tolerance for sweet is probably higher than yours. October 24, 2016 at 6:21pm Reply

    • Chin C.: Overlooked the salty part… +1 for Eau des Merveilles which is full of character while discreet. I personally like the elixir better though but it’s more full-bodied so may not be for you. October 25, 2016 at 1:39am Reply

      • Klaas: Hello all, thanks a million for all your great suggestions! I love and own Encre Noire and Sel de Vetiver, so I’m glad they popped up in the list….it’s exactly those kind of fragrances that I’m looking for. So I will defenitely check out Eau des Merveilles and some of the Comme des Garcons and Diptique suggestions. And I’ll be in Paris in a couple of weeks, so Will make sure to get a sniff of the Lutens as well…….This is so much fun!! October 25, 2016 at 5:47am Reply

        • Michaela: I was thinking precisely of Encre Noir and Eau des Merveilles 🙂 October 25, 2016 at 7:29am Reply

    • maggiecat: Jo Malone Wood Sage and Basil may be right up your alley! It’s a clean yet complex dry, salty woody scent, and the smaller sizes are not terribly expensive! October 25, 2016 at 3:20pm Reply

    • Kiki: How about Kourkdjian Baccarat rouge 540? crisp, woody, radiant and unforgettable. October 26, 2016 at 6:31pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: I don’t find it salty, but another possibility for dry and woody could be EL’s Azuree. I find it woody and dry, aromatic with notes of leather. No salt. Others smell citrus notes but I don’t — on the other hand, my bottle is parfum, not EDP or EDT, so that probably makes a difference. It has LOTS of character! And it is not oriental or gourmand at all. October 28, 2016 at 8:45am Reply

    • Figuier: Parfumerie Generale’s Bois Blond is a very nice dry wood, smelling of hay and freshly sharpened pencils, with only a hint of sweetness in the drydown to temper the raspy woods. October 28, 2016 at 11:14am Reply

      • Klaas: Parfumerie Generale is a very interesting suggestion….i saw they do a scent called Bois Naufragé, which means drowned wood. Salt and wood, just what I’m looking for! Will defenitely try Bois Blond as well, thanks for the suggestion! October 30, 2016 at 1:08pm Reply

  • Anne: I hope no one minds me re-posting an October 12th recommendation request originally added (too late) to September’s thread:

    Dear Victoria and Bois de Jasmin Readers:

    On behalf of a dear friend, I’m in need of your assistance and would very much appreciate your considered recommendation as to a gift scent. My good friend once loved perfume, and for 10 years wore Dioressence (which she discovered in Paris) as her signature scent. She stopped wearing perfume at the behest of her fiance—a rat bastard scoundrel who later jilted her without notice, after which she had no heart for perfume (which I suspect might be a sad reminder of her losses). This was years ago. She never married. Nor did she ever return to fragrance. Recently, however, she mentioned a rekindling interest in perfume. Perhaps even a desire to find a new signature scent. Hooray! I know that only she can decide on something so personal as a new signature scent, but I’d love to encourage her waxing interest by giving her an array of perfume samples & minis for Christmas. Along with her past love of Dioressence, I can offer you these clues—-she loves the scent of lemon blossom, orange blossom, lilac, freesia, roses, and above all canterbury bells (also known as campanula bells). A sailboater, she loves marine scents. A fabulous baker, she adores the scents of cardamom, cinnamon, and vanilla. In perfume she prefers clean, subtle scents of moderate sillage; powdery notes over creamy notes; and nothing too overtly musky. Based on these clues can you kind recommend one or more perfumes? I enjoy this site and greatly respect your knowledge and opinions. Thank you in advance for any assistance you may provide. October 24, 2016 at 1:37pm Reply

    • Cornelia Blimber: Hi Anne. What a sad story.I hope she will enjoy her life again, and a perfume.
      As for vanilla:
      Serge lutens Un Bois vanille is sweet but with a surprising fresh drydown.
      Dior Hypnotic Poison: almonds and soothing vanilla.

      Cartier Baiser volé: Lovely fresh in the beginning, soft vanilla in the drydown.
      There are lots of perfumes with soft spices.
      Lubin Black Jade has cardamom
      Cinéma YSL (discontinued?)
      Tuxedo in the Vestiere collection YSL has a nice cardamom note.
      Best wishes to your friend! October 24, 2016 at 3:15pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: What about “En passant” from the Frederic Malle range.
      I find it light, subtle and incredibly elegant.
      Here ist the description from the website:

      “A simple note, white lilac, seized in a short instant, at the cusp of springtime. Composed by Olivia Giacobetti, En Passant is an evocation of Doisneau’s Paris, of divine smells wafting from gardens hidden behind walls. A few orange leaves, cucumber absolute and wheat absolute, that accompany this impressionist perfume. A charming creation that skillfully sublimates the gift of nature A serene and radiant perfume.” October 24, 2016 at 3:37pm Reply

    • Austenfan: For lilac I can only second En Passant. And would also recommend Désarmant by La Parfumerie Moderne. It’s a pity that Eau du Ciel is not what it used to be as I think she would have enjoyed it.
      Freesia; I never tried it myself but Ofrésia by Diptyque is supposedly nice.
      Orange blossoms: Fleurs d’Orangers Houbigant, Sweet Redemption By Kilian. By Kilian might actually be a line that she might want to explore. The refills are not that expensive and the florals are refined and good. Another house I would recommend is Goutal. They are very good at light, unobtrusive florals. And Hermès. Kelly Calèche and Jour d’Hermès might fit with her likes as well. Plus Hermès is easily available.
      For a clean subtle floral she might also like Omnia Crystalline, or even Omnia Paraiba.
      For light roses I would recommend Rosine’s Ecume de Rose and Un zest de Rose.
      And the Baiser Volé is a great, great perfume. If she starts of with the EDT she might actually end up loving the Essence de parfum.
      I hope this rekindling interest in perfume is a sign that she is ready to move on. And she seems to have found a great friend to help her in you! October 24, 2016 at 4:03pm Reply

    • george: Have a look at the Hermes Box sets on their site. 4 15 ml perfumes from either the hermessence or the designer ranges. You could easily make a set of muguet porcelain, amber narguile, epice marine and rose ikebana (or others), or cardamony Voyage, Jour D’hermes, Rose Amazone and cologne (or others). I think these are great and make a great gift, and the house style is likely to chime with her love of clean subtle scents of moderate sillage. October 24, 2016 at 4:38pm Reply

    • Karen A: Love the idea of a basket of samples and decants! I will add Guerlain’s Chamade, Ann Gerard’s Rose Cut, Mona di Oro’s Musc, Bois des Iles by Chanel and l’âme soeur by Divine. The Guerlain and Chanel you will have to get samples of from a shop (Saks if there’s one near you), but the others you can get samples from Luckyscent.

      Shalimar is great for a baker as its vanilla in a beautiful, elegant way. October 24, 2016 at 5:52pm Reply

    • Aurora: Excellent recommendations already, also based on her love of Dioressence, a Clinique Aromatic Elixir sample might be a possibility. It’s very thoughful of you to do this for your friend. October 24, 2016 at 6:29pm Reply

    • Lily: Houbigant orangeurs en fleur. Orange blossom, some rose, cardamom, very elegant in that pulled-together-but-easy-to-wear way.

      For marine scents the Hermes Eau de Merveilles and flankers.

      For rose, spice, vanilla, and powder, Caron Parfum Sacre.

      I hope you will report to us what (if any) she responds to! Best of luck to her in reclaiming a lost part of herself. October 24, 2016 at 9:50pm Reply

      • Anne: To those who have so promptly offered their kind and thoughtful gift recommendations—thank you! I’ve made careful note of each of your recommendations and will begin searching out samples. I’ll keep checking back for additional recommendations. Thanks so much! October 24, 2016 at 11:22pm Reply

    • spe: To preserve some sense of continuity and to help her embrace her individuality and preferences, I’d begin with the house of Dior.

      The “new” Dioressence is beautiful (I own it and wear it) and it might be just different enough to help get her back into the saddle with fragrance, be similar enough to “validate” her preferences, but not so identical to bring up painful memories. This is one instance where reformulation may be of enormous benefit! I get a similar vibe between the new Dioressence and Derby, by Guerlain (marketed to men, but a beautiful scent for women).

      Pure Poison would be my next suggestion. Lots of flowers and kind of generically, cleanly “pretty.” Not too musky, not too sweet.

      Miss Dior Cherie Blooming Bouquet would be another choice – fresh and floral – uplifting.

      Dior Forever and Ever was stolen out of my car! It’s delightful clean, softly floral, perhaps just a touch of anise herb in there. Youthful. Soft.

      Hypnotic Poison is vanilla and sexy, if that’s the direction she would like to try.

      Of course, Dior has fabulous colognes and exclusives. And let’s not forget the beautiful J’Adore and flankers!

      She sounds pained from her losses. I’d love to hear that she courageously reached out to reclaim a previously loved fragrance. One that has been in the shadows all these years, morphing along with her, with some losses of its own.

      Best wishes for your friend and her journey. October 25, 2016 at 12:37am Reply

      • Anne: I chose not to wait until Christmas. Some things are too urgent to wait for a holiday, and getting back into the self-pampering swing of life is one of them! So from my own fledgling collection I sent my dear friend decants of Bvlgari Blv and Blvgari Blv II, Bvlgari Mon Jasmin Noir Exquise, Aqua di Gio, Versace Versense, Gucci Bamboo, Penhaligons Bluebell, and Wild Bluebell by Jo Malone, which I hope will appeal to at least a few of her preferences and favorite fragrance notes. Whether or not these are worthy successors to Dioressence I’ve hardly a clue— I’m a well-intentioned perfume newbie more or less running in the dark—so I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your kind and helpful suggestions! Winnowing your recommendations to the most oft repeated and affordable few, I also included decants of Hermes eau de Merveilles; Houbigant Orangers en Fleurs, Cartier Braiser Vole eau de Toilette. Hermes Jour d’Hermes, Yves Rocher’s Vanille Noire, and the new Dioressence. Your recommendations made me feel a lot more confident about this gift, and I thank you all so much! Thank you especially for caring about my friend. Your well wishes for her touched me very deeply. October 29, 2016 at 12:02pm Reply

        • Mel: Versace Versense is so underrated! I love it from start to finish. February 6, 2017 at 4:40pm Reply

      • Anne: Hi Spe…..I included the latest Dioressence in my friend’s gift box as per your recommendation, which you probably already know if you’re still following this thread….but I find I must additionally tell you how hauntingly beautiful I found your writing in general, and the last paragraph in particular….. so poignantly evocative. November 7, 2016 at 10:58am Reply

        • spe: Many thanks for the kind words, Anne. November 13, 2016 at 6:28pm Reply

    • Michaela: Many great recommendations already! Adding Bottega Venetta Knot for a subtle orange blossom.
      You are a very good friend! October 25, 2016 at 7:36am Reply

    • mendokuse: Maybe instead of giving her samples of things she’s sure to like and wear, give her an array of odd and interesting fragrances that stimulate an intellectual and artistic interest in fragrance itself. Mix odd scents with opulent classics, unlikeable but fascinating scents and overtly charming scents. Sometimes, offering a different perspective from the original one you entered a world with can change its shape for you and make it a new one. October 30, 2016 at 5:56pm Reply

      • Anne: There have been so many brilliant suggestions in regard to my gift request—and the above is one of them! Thank you, Mendokuse. When my friend has made her way through each of the offerings, I’ll suggest she try layering them as suits her imagination. Right now she’s having fun reaching blindly in the grab bag, letting chance dictate her selection. She’s sampling each one for a period of two or three days before moving on to the next. So far chance hasn’t yet lead her fingers to the gorgeous fragrances recommended for her here, which I actually think is a good omen— perhaps fate is letting my lesser, more naive offerings serve as a useful backdrop for the Cartier, Rocher, Hermes, Houbigant, and Dior. What I know for sure is that she’s enjoying herself while experimenting. 🙂 Thank you all again for your wonderful suggestions! November 4, 2016 at 1:22pm Reply

  • lisa: Hi,

    Can you give me a good recommendation for an authentic wild honeysuckle (white and pale yellow flowers that grow on the side of the road) fragrance? I loved Annick Goutal Le Cheverfeuille but it’s difficult to find now.

    Thanks! October 24, 2016 at 4:05pm Reply

    • Caroline: Haven’t tried it, but there’s also Mediterranean Honeysuckle, one of the newer Aerin Lauders. One of the ladies over on Perfume Posse enjoys it. October 24, 2016 at 5:58pm Reply

      • Caroline: Also recall that Santa Maria Novella carries Caprifoglio/honeysuckle (another I haven’t tried). Keep an eye on ebay for Le Chevrefeuille. Just got my backup of Heure Exquise there, as the reformulation is disappointing. October 25, 2016 at 8:04am Reply

        • lisa: Thanks! October 25, 2016 at 9:38am Reply

    • Aurora: Yves Rocher Chevrefeuille seems realistic honeysuckle to me although it doesn’t last very well, another one I like with that note is Fragonard by Fragonard and Caroline’s suggestion of trying Mediterranean Honeysuckly seems a very good idea. I don’t know where you’re located by Beautyspin UK carries Annick Goutal Le Chevrefeuille for a very good price. October 24, 2016 at 6:43pm Reply

      • Aurora: Honeysuckle not suckly, sorry for the typo. October 24, 2016 at 6:52pm Reply

      • Bettina: I was going to suggest Fragonard by Fragonard as well. October 25, 2016 at 4:17am Reply

    • AnnieA: Won’t speak to its wildness, but Demeter’s Honeysuckle smell on-target albeit only lasting a few minutes. October 26, 2016 at 5:24pm Reply

  • Andrea: Hello everybody,
    I’m new to parfums. It started a few months ago as my husband and I tried Chanel No 5 in a parfum shop, just to know, what it smells like. We bouth disliked it at once, probably due to the aldehydes, we were not used to. The shop assistant showed us Chanel Boy, which I liked but thought was to unisex for me. Then the assistant gave us a sample of Bel Respiro and No 18. I spent the next weeks sniffing and comparing with other brands and now I’m addicted to the Chanel Exclusifs line. Today I want to share, that according to the Chanel Website the Eclusifs are available as eaux de parfum. That would be really good news for all 28 La Pausa Lovers, if I’m not mistaken. As I said, I’m new to parfum. Please correct me, if I missed something here.
    By the way, if you ever happen to visite Cologne, Germany, my beloved home town – (how do you say “Vaterstadt” in English?) Don’t miss the Farina House, the oldest still in business parfumer in the world, as they claim. They have got a nice line, from which you can pick the parfume of your sign of zodiac. Real fun. And the Eau de Cologne is gorgeous, too, of course. But maby I’m taking sides here. October 24, 2016 at 4:54pm Reply

    • Aurora: Thank you very much, Andrea, for your greetings from Germany. Yes, I find the news of Chanel les Exclusifs Eau de Parfums exciting but only if they do last longer. I am yet to test them, and I would love to visit the Farina colognes house very much. October 24, 2016 at 6:49pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Ach wie schön: noch jemand aus Köln! Aus der Chanel Exclusifs Serie finde ich Coromandel und Sycomore besonders gut! Die haben Charakter im Gegensatz zu Boy oder Beige. October 25, 2016 at 1:34pm Reply

      • Andrea: Schön, jemand, der auf Deutsch schreibt! Ich mag Coromandel auch wahnsinnig gerne, allerdings auch Beige, weil es mich so glücklich macht. Mein Lieblingsduft von den Exclusifs ist Rue Cambon. October 25, 2016 at 2:42pm Reply

        • rainboweyes: Meiner auch 🙂 – und 28 La Pausa (freue mich schon auf die EdP-Version) October 25, 2016 at 2:47pm Reply

          • rainboweyes: Btw – I’m not from Cologne but I’m married to a “Kölscher Jeck” 🙂
            I love the city and the people – so life-affirming 🙂 October 25, 2016 at 2:50pm Reply

    • Austenfan: Vaterstadt = hometown. As far as I know, but both are only second languages to me. October 25, 2016 at 1:41pm Reply

      • Andrea: Thanks for your answer. I wonder why everyone seem to be so fluent and flawless in English. October 25, 2016 at 2:49pm Reply

  • kekasmais: I am more or less settled on a perfume to wear to the Met Opera next month (Coco, you old friend), but I am more than willing for further recommendations for future opera nights, or to even hear what you’d all pick for an equally magical night out. Think old-time soirees, Carnival in Venice, mazurkas at the Winter Palace, etc. What is life without the occasional opulent daydream? October 24, 2016 at 6:09pm Reply

    • irem: To me Opera night is the best time to break out classic Guerlain fragrances in parfum form. I am especially partial to Vol de Nuit Parfum. I have a vintage quadrilobe bottle which smells like made for the opera: gilded, plush and velvety. Too bad reports of the current version are not as promising. For my next ballet night, I plan to wear Shalimar parfum. October 24, 2016 at 8:03pm Reply

      • kekasmais: I’m slowly but surely working my way through the classic Guerlains in alphabetical order, so it will be a while yet before I get to Vol de Nuit, but I’ll be sure to keep my eyes peeled for that formulation. It had to have been heavenly if Saint-Exupery himself wore it from its release until the day he died.

        Which ballet would you take Shalimar to? I could see it being right at home in a box seat for La Bayadère. October 25, 2016 at 10:54pm Reply

        • irem: I did not know that Saint-Exupery himself wore Vol de Nuit. He is one of my favorite authors. I’ve re-read his books several to countless times. I feel sad not knowing French and not so being able to read his original writings. I’ve read translations of his books in different languages, to compensate. But I never read a biography, or anything biographical about him, afraid to spoil the magic in his books.
          I’ll take Shalimar to the Nutcracker – nothing groundbreaking, I know, but this is one of the few ballets that run in our neck of the woods. This year will be special since I will take my older son too. He is eight, and whenever he dresses up, he asks for some perfume. I always put Clarins Eau Dynamisante on him. My Shalimar and his Eau Dynamisante will most likely smell a bit like Jicky from afar. October 26, 2016 at 1:45pm Reply

          • kekasmais: You and I are in similar straits. I’d give up my native English for good if it meant I could read Wind, Sand and Stars in its original French (as I understand, it’s French title alone – Terre des Hommes – is chock full of puns that one misses out on entirely in English). But rest assured that a lot of his fictional works tend to lend themselves to autobiography, so if you ever do pick up a book about him you may find yourself already familiar with points from his personal life just from what you’ve gleaned from The Little Prince or Night Flight.

            What a charmer your son is! Perhaps he’ll be keen on something like Parfums de Nicolai’s New York when he’s older. I hope the two of you will have a wonderful night out! October 26, 2016 at 2:26pm Reply

            • irem: Kekasmais, I am delighted to meet a fellow Wind, Sand and Stars lover! If I were allowed to take a single book to a desert island/moon/Mars it would be Wind, Sand and Stars. I’ve first read that book over 20 years ago, in my native Turkish. The Turkish title was true to “Terre des Hommes” and I was drawn by the title alone. In those 20 years since first reading it, I’ve re-read all or parts of the book countless times.
              In fact, you’ve just inspired me to read it again. After hitting enter to submit my comment, I’ll make some tea and read the story of Guillaumet being lost in the Andes again: “What I have done, I swear to you, no animal would have done. ” A few drops of Vol de Nuit along the read would not hurt either.
              Thank you for the inspiration! October 26, 2016 at 3:32pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: How about something by Amouage, like Memoir Woman, Gold Woman or Lyric Woman? Or Salome, by Papillon Perfumes? October 24, 2016 at 10:31pm Reply

      • kekasmais: All those Amouage perfumes you mentioned would be right at home in an opera house, and I’ll confess bipartisanship upfront when it comes to Lyric Woman. Gold Woman is beautifully composed, but there’s something so stirring about Lyric…

        Salome would be a no-brainer for the opera of the same name. It’s unabashedly sexy. October 25, 2016 at 10:58pm Reply

        • Old Herbaceous: I know, wouldn’t it be fun to sweep into the Met for a performance of Salome, wearing Salome? I understand bottles of it are in short supply right now to fix some issue with bottling or something, but I’m sure the niche perfumeries in NYC still have testers or samples you could snag! Have fun at the opera — what will you see? October 28, 2016 at 8:49am Reply

          • kekasmais: I wasn’t aware of distribution issues with Salome. I found it fairly easily on Luckyscent a few nights ago when I went to check. I still have a few precious drops left from a sample from a year ago, but perhaps I’ll grab another vial this weekend.

            We’re seeing La Bohème. Some of the folks in our group are new to opera, and the Zeffirelli production never fails to astound. (Horrifyingly, my friend and I were almost considering reneging our RSVP’s to a wedding the Saturday before to go see Guillame Tell, but alas. XD) October 28, 2016 at 1:45pm Reply

            • Old Herbaceous: Wonderful! I saw Franco Corelli in the older production of La Boheme at the Met as a kid in the 1970s; it was amazing. I hope you’ll tell us what fragrance you choose! October 29, 2016 at 5:40am Reply

          • Kari: I think it’s back in stock now (per announcement on their Facebook page.) I know Fumerie in Portland, Oregon (US) had it last week too. November 1, 2016 at 4:34pm Reply

    • spe: L’Heure Bleue! October 25, 2016 at 12:43am Reply

      • kekasmais: Another notch on the belt for a classic Guerlain! I may have to reconsider my initial choice… October 25, 2016 at 10:59pm Reply

    • Tijana: I frequent opera as a subscriber and while I love fragrances, I find that “less is more” policy beet applies given people’s sensitivities (and the signs around Toronto opera house asking people to abstain from wearing fragrances). So this is a perfect time to get extraits out and wear something lovely and rich, but with a more intimate sillage. Here are my favourites in extrait form:
      – L’Heure Bleue
      – Bois des Iles
      – Cuir de Russie
      – Chanel 22
      – Insolence
      Enjoy Met, I saw Il Trovatore there many years ago and loved it!!!!! October 28, 2016 at 7:36am Reply

      • kekasmais: I’m so looking forward to it! In what promises to be a month full of fun goings-on, my night at the opera is going to be the highlight of my November for sure.

        I’ll have you know that my resistance wore down at last and I’m now waiting with baited breath for a vial of vintage L’Heure Bleue to show up in my mailbox. I found the EDP from six years ago to be heart-breakingly beautiful, so I can’t even begin to imagine what the vintage extrait will do to me… October 29, 2016 at 5:07pm Reply

  • Lily: I want to thank whichever of you lovely perfumistas it was who recommended Noir Epices to me when I was asking for spicy/dry perfumes. I waited till this fall to sample, as I had asked at the tail end of cold weather where I live, and I LOVE it. It is everything I wanted Opium to be but wasn’t. Just spice and carnation and fire.

    Thanks also to those who recommended it to other people and added additional nuance to the descriptions of it!

    Not sure I will ever wear it often enough for a FB but travel sprays get me to any number of operas!

    Which, to answer the above inquiry, my opera scent would definitely be this one! October 24, 2016 at 9:56pm Reply

  • Tati: Hello Everyone,
    I find that I love vetiver as a note in many perfumes, and I’m thinking to find one where it plays a more central part. Any suggestions? October 25, 2016 at 3:33am Reply

    • Gabriela: Encre Noir by Lalique or, more expensive, Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire. October 25, 2016 at 4:08am Reply

      • Surbhi: Second vetiver extraordinare. Tom ford’s grey orchid EDT (not edp) October 28, 2016 at 10:50pm Reply

    • Karen A: Sycomore by Chanel. Gorgeous, sophisticated vetiver. And for an inexpensive straight vetiver, Guerlains Vetiver can be found on discount sites, good for layering. (I used it this past summer as a bug deterrent spray) October 25, 2016 at 5:59am Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Tati: I love the vetiver in Donna Karan Woman (the one with the strange twisted bottle). I also recall sampling Phaedon Black Vetiver which is very potent. October 25, 2016 at 6:16am Reply

    • Klaas: There’s a great number of gorgeous Vetiver scents out there, some of them have already been mentioned. Guerlain, Malle, Chanel and Lalique are all superb, but if you wish to sample more, you could try Vetyver by Mona di Orio, Vetiver Tonka from the Hermesseces line, Sel de Vetiver by the Different Company or the very reasonably priced Cologne Vettiveru by Comme des Garcons. There’s also a very lushious Vetiver from Villoresi (vintage collection)……….and there is many, many more 😉 I hope you find a nice one! October 25, 2016 at 7:32am Reply

    • Michaela: Atelier Cologne Vetiver Fatale if you accept a powdery one, without much sweetness. Very interesting.
      For me, salty and bracing Lalique Encre Noir is everything I want from a vetiver perfume. October 25, 2016 at 7:44am Reply

    • Bastet: Annick Goutal’s Vetiver Cologne is wonderful. October 25, 2016 at 9:47am Reply

    • Austenfan: Apart from the excellent suggestions on the Vetivers by Goutal, Malle, Guerlain, Chanel and Lalique, I would also recommend Etro Vetiver, Heeley Sel Marin, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Racine and Route du Vetiver. You could also use the vetiver tag on Bois de Jasmin and that would show you all the reviews of Vetiver fragrances. October 25, 2016 at 12:26pm Reply

    • rainboweyes: You’ve already got plenty of great suggestions, I’d like to add Byredo Bal d’Afrique. October 25, 2016 at 2:44pm Reply

    • Tati: Thanks for all the vetiver suggestions! It will be a full month of samples. October 25, 2016 at 4:29pm Reply

    • Morelle: My favourite vetiver scent is Fat Electrician by Etat Libre d’Orange (also love the name!) October 25, 2016 at 6:22pm Reply

      • spe: Fabulous name. I want to wear it for that reason alone. October 26, 2016 at 1:30am Reply

  • Bettina: Fellow perfume lovers might be interested in a fragrance challenge my perfumista sister and I are engaged in. We started a few weeks ago with the idea of wearing a different perfume with saffron as one of the notes. The next week we did incense, then pepper and this week are doing ‘rose’.
    We both have good sample selections to draw on and it is an interesting way to revisit some of those perfumes you have tried and put away.
    Not sure how long we will keep it up, but it is great fun for now. October 25, 2016 at 4:23am Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Bettina: Have fun with your sister! Yes, it’s an excellent way to proceed with perfume so that you can plan in advance what you’re going to wear. October 25, 2016 at 12:54pm Reply

    • kpaint: This is a great way to wear things you’ve forgotten about or that otherwise don’t get much wear. I don’t know if you read the Now Smell This blog, but every Friday there’s a community project with a specific theme. Lots of readers use it as a theme for the whole week. October 25, 2016 at 1:20pm Reply

      • Bettina: Thank you for reminding me. I used to read Now Smell This and often joined in with the Friday scent of the day. Since I upgraded to Windows 10 some of my RSS have dropped out. I must fix that. October 26, 2016 at 3:52am Reply

    • Kari: That sounds incredibly fun! Lucky you and your sister for finding such a creative way to indulge a shared interest. October 25, 2016 at 11:23pm Reply

    • Alexis: MMMmmm, makes me want to get home and break out my vintage bottle of the original Donna Karan Chaos! (hands down my favorite saffron scent) October 26, 2016 at 4:09pm Reply

    • spe: Wonderful idea. I have a sister who likes perfume – not so much into samples – but we definitely encourage one another with our choices and perfume needs. Your post makes me realize how narrow my collection has become – I wouldn’t be able to participate much! My other sister dislikes most fragrances. It’s interesting to get her take on scents as well and she is especially prone to calling my scents old-fashioned. I’ve just switched to the new Chanel fragrances for work – we’ll see what she thinks of those. Thank you for sharing this great idea! October 28, 2016 at 9:20am Reply

  • sandra: Since I won’t being going to Japan anytime soon..something similar to Le Labo Gaiac10 October 25, 2016 at 11:39am Reply

  • leica nilen: Am still searching for my holy grail — a long lasting jasmine scent, something like Jasmine de Le Galion (my late mother’s favorite scent), which alas, is now extinct. October 25, 2016 at 12:50pm Reply

    • Caroline: Not familiar with your vanished Le Galion, but can think of some decent jasmines: Houbigant Orangeurs en Fleurs (orange blossom, but with prominent jasmine), ebay-acquired vintage Patou Joy edt; Van Cleef California Reverie, and Diptyque’s Essences Insensees 2015. Lutens A la Nuit is very nice, but doesn’t last at all on me. The Kilian line also has some jasmines, but am not up on those. Good luck! October 25, 2016 at 3:56pm Reply

    • Indigo: A la nuit is the one I know, and like, best as a jasmine soliflore. It projects very well but would need a re-application after about 5 hours if you wanted to keep it present. October 25, 2016 at 4:52pm Reply

    • Diana: Leica Nilen: You mentioned Le Galion, which made me think of a favorite of my mother: Sortilege. It occurred to me that a search of the Jasmine de le Galion in that well-known online auction site (I am certain we know which one) might yield results. I checked and it did. If you are searching, do try there.

      …and I am going back to see if they have Sortilege… October 25, 2016 at 9:47pm Reply

      • leica nilen: Love your suggestion but wonder if perfumes change (after years in storage whether opened or not) or does it stay stable? I have zero experience buying vintage perfume. October 26, 2016 at 2:20pm Reply

        • Diana: I have had some experience with vintage perfumes, but I am by no means an expert. I do think they may change. I noticed that some of the bottles are nearly empty. I suspect the extra air (space, or whatever) would facilitate evaporation. They would also have been exposed to air and dust and whatever if they had been regularly used. The fuller bottles might well not have that issue. There is always a chance, as well, that the ite might not be as described. I have taken chances with a perfume that my mother loved and missed (Christian Aujard) with no ill effects, but that was a fairly new scent. October 26, 2016 at 11:54pm Reply

    • Kari: Serge Lutens A La Nuit is my favorite jasmine and lasts most of the day on my skin with a couple sprays. October 25, 2016 at 11:25pm Reply

    • spe: Sarrasins, A La Nuit (my favorite), Jasmin Verte (Miller Harris), By Killian Love and Tears. There are some real heavy hitters: MPG, Bruno C….?, and then lighter ones (L’Artisan). So many. Diptique Olene. I’m sure someone will join in with more. Surrender to Chance probably has a jasmine sampler suggestion so you can see how they wear on you. October 26, 2016 at 1:41am Reply

    • Aurora: I will just add Van Cleef & Arpels First where jasmine is blended with other flowers and Donna Karan Essence Jasmine which to me smells so close to the flower itself. Also, do check out Victoria’s post on jasmine. October 26, 2016 at 5:54am Reply

  • LenaD: Hello Everyone!
    I was wondering if anyone experimented with layering Chanel’s Exclusives? October 25, 2016 at 12:53pm Reply

    • AnnieA: Your question has made me realize I only layer cheap items like Demeter. October 26, 2016 at 5:20pm Reply

    • spe: One salesperson told me: coromandel and beige (I tried and they do smell lovely). 31 rue and 1932 have a lot in common – they would definitely layer. My first layering thought, however, was 31 Rue and 28 La Pausa. I haven’t tried it, but in my mind, it is exquisite! Now you’ve inspired me. October 28, 2016 at 9:39am Reply

    • Luanne Teall: A sweet smelling SA told me she layers Beige with Gardenia, which I keep meaning to try but never do. October 30, 2016 at 5:06pm Reply

  • Indigo: Hi everyone,
    Now that autumn is here, it is Feminité du Bois time – purple fruit, flowers, spices, a pinch of sweat and lots of cedar… However, the newest version of the scent, whilst better than none at all, does feel much thinner than it used to. I know that Lutens are supposed to layer well so I wondered if anyone has got any successful layering combinations with Feminité du Bois to bring out some of its curves again? October 25, 2016 at 4:49pm Reply

    • Cornelia Blimber: The French ”Elle” had an article by JC Ellena on layering.(2003). He gave many suggestions (most generously) I jotted down in my black and golden perfume note book.
      Feminite du bois + Cuir de Russie was his idea.
      Feminite du Bois on top. October 25, 2016 at 5:38pm Reply

      • Indigo: Thank you for this tip, Cornelia – such an interesting article. I see that Feminité is recommended for layering with several other fragrances:
        Cuir de Russie
        No 5
        Eau d’orange verte
        Angel (?!)

        I wonder if anyone has tried any of these. Angel and Opium sound like pretty big scents to layer!
        I’d also be keen for something to bring out the orange blossom or violet florals. If anyone has any ideas, do shout. October 26, 2016 at 4:36am Reply

        • Cornelia Blimber: Hi Indigo!
          The list i wrote down (taken from the article, 21 july 2003) gives for Feminite du Bois: + Cuir de Russie or +FdB + Ysatis.
          Angel: +Fuzzy Peach, The Body Shop
          +LEau d’Issey
          + Eau d’Orange Verte (to make Angel less oppresive).
          Opium +Orange Sanguine (MPG) or Fleurs d’Oranger (SL)

          Opium + Angel is not on the list I put down.
          I won’t try that, won’t you?
          Do you have the article? I only have my notes.
          If somebody wants it, I can communicate them here. It’s a long list! Most generous ..few parfumeurs would do this! October 26, 2016 at 5:19am Reply

          • Cornelia Blimber: Oh, sorry, I see.
            FdB + Opium or Fdb+ Angel? Brrrr October 26, 2016 at 5:21am Reply

    • Alexis: Don’t know if this will really be helpful, but I’ve been pretty lucky at scoring the old stuff on ebay! I’ve taken to layering my reformulated scents – a tiny amount of the original version layered underneath a more generous dose of the newer version – using the newer editions as a kind of “extender” October 26, 2016 at 4:13pm Reply

      • indigo: Ah, thanks, Alexis. These days all that seems to be online is the Eau timide version… I think I might have to draw a definitive line under this version. If I’m layering with a Chanel exclusive at some point the warning bells start ringing! October 26, 2016 at 5:18pm Reply

        • Alexis: Oh it’s there. It’s just you pay through the nose for it ( ). I will say that I paid a handsome sum for mine – it was 3/4 full when I purchased 5 years ago, and I still have more than half the bottle left. That being said, I restrict my use to fall and even then I use it sparingly and keep it in the box.

          Sigh. October 26, 2016 at 8:12pm Reply

  • Adrienne: Hey there Delilah. I offered a couple of suggestions but accidentally tagged onto the comments by Tati. Instead if making an individual comment. I’m curious if you have heard of the perfume from Bahrain that I mentioned. October 25, 2016 at 5:14pm Reply

  • Tracy: I’m a very interested neophyte! I’m waiting for my first Amouage Sampler box as of the moment. . .

    In order, here are my favorites:

    1. F. Malle’s Portrait of a Lady
    2. E. Lauder’s Youth Dew
    3. S. Lutens’ Chergui
    4. S. Lutens’ La Fille de Berlin

    Suggestions will be very much welcome – hopefully designer and niche fragrances that are available in Sydney. October 25, 2016 at 11:44pm Reply

    • Aurora: It seems to me you like statement perfumes which contain patchouli. Perhaps a rose/patchouli, Miller Harris has a new one called Rose Silence which I like very much, and Terry de Gunzburg Rouge Nocturne and perhaps l’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses. I thought also to recommend lighter options with patchouli, Clarins Eau Dynamisante and Liz Earle No1 (I hope you have it in Australia) and last I think a good chypre with patchouli might please you as well and I would suggest Balmain Ivoire. I hope you will find some you like in this list and that you will get other answers. October 26, 2016 at 9:20am Reply

    • Tati: Hi Tracy, I have/love all of your choices except Youth Dew (never tried it, must remedy that). Breaks my heart that POAL disagrees with me but I like it on others. My favorite Amouage scents are Lyric Woman and Memoir, I think you will like them. Have you gone down the oud rabbit hole? Some of my favorites are Rose Oud and Amber Oud by Killian. Another of my all-time favorites, which I mentioned to Delilah above, is Etat Libre Rossy de Palma. October 26, 2016 at 1:24pm Reply

      • george: There’s a new body oil version of POAL. It might work for you…. October 28, 2016 at 9:17am Reply

        • Tati: Oh, that sounds intriguing. I’ll check it out. Thanks! October 28, 2016 at 10:16am Reply

  • Tracy: Hello Aurora – Thank you for recommending! I really liked Rouge Nocturne, but favored purchasing La Fille de Berlin. I’ll come back for it again. I remember trying Eau Dynamisante and not being impressed by it, but that was probably because it was cooler back then and I wanted a stronger perfume. The Australian summer heat might bring me back to the Clarins counter. I will surely check out your choices, especially Balmain Ivoire. I don’t think I’ve smelled Chypre before (and have been thinking of blind buying Bandit online).

    Hi Tati – Sorry to hear about POAL, alas! Perhaps purchasing the candle can make up for it in terms of personal use? Yes, do try Youth Dew, I was pleasantly surprised how much I adore it (glad to have read Victoria’s stunning review). I have the bath oil, not the perfume. I mixed a few drops of it with unscented lotion (Kiehls creme de corps) and used the combination this morning. I feel like I’m enveloped by opulence, which works for me because it’s a cool and windy day today! I look forward to receiving the Amouage Sampler box. I will definitely check out the Oud scents and Etat Libre Rossy de Palma.

    Thank you, I am so excited! I commenced this fragrance journey after meeting an old friend and getting a whiff of her bottle of Creed’s Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare. This experience led me to this lovely blog and youtube videos and books (Diane Ackerman; Luca Turin). Such a beautiful world of scents and discovery! October 26, 2016 at 5:50pm Reply

    • Tracy: Sorry, Suzanna’s review of YD. October 26, 2016 at 5:52pm Reply

  • spe: Okay, perfumistas, I need your help, please!

    I’ve been trying to identify a fragrance that I first smelled in 1981, at college on a “hippy chick want-to-be” young woman.

    It’s not China Musk or Rain. It does have that type of base, but also has perhaps some rose/chocolate /vanilla as well. It’s both fresh and sensual and feminine. Very lightly floral, sweet, and musky – but in an old fashioned way. I just smelled something very similar in wrapping paper from a chocolate shop in Buenos Aires!

    Could it be something blended? This woman would have probably preferred blending oils to mainstream perfume. But it always smelled so consistent!

    I appreciate any thoughts on how to approach this dilemma! October 28, 2016 at 1:36am Reply

    • Cornelia Blimber: Your description reminded me of the original Must de Cartier. Maybe not enough ”hippie”? October 28, 2016 at 7:21am Reply

      • spe: Thank you for the suggestion. No patchouli in this at all. It was a soft whisper. It didn’t smell refined in the least. A slightly muskier, floral Love’s Baby Soft. October 28, 2016 at 9:47am Reply

    • Aurora: I had to check Must de Cartier, it sounds so wonderful, I can’t believe I’ve never smelled it. To go back to your question, spe, strictly based on the chocolate wrapper clue, I was thinking Spanish and South American chocolate often has cinnamon so maybe something like Arquiste Anima Dulcis or without cinnamon the incredibly affordable but charming Choco Musk by Al Rehab which has rose, vanilla, chocolate. Hope this is helping a little bit. Also could she have worn something sweet chocolaty but also with patchouli so popular with the hippy type? October 28, 2016 at 10:09am Reply

      • Tati: I wore the original Must de Cartier. It was my first perfume, and I’ve never found another that was just so perfect. I’m always looking for something in that vein. Can’t wear the new formulations. October 28, 2016 at 10:19am Reply

        • spe: There is a Must Gold that is lovely! A lot like the original – a bit softer.

          Has choco musk been around since the 80’s? That’s what came up when I searched. October 28, 2016 at 1:20pm Reply

          • Aurora: spe: thanks for your recommendation of Must Gold. Re choco musk, I’m not sure, it doesn’t say on Fragrantica. October 29, 2016 at 3:17pm Reply

        • Aurora: Hello Tati: thank you very much for sharing about Cartier, Must. I’ll try the Gold spe recommends below, and will try to get hold of a vintage mini October 29, 2016 at 3:14pm Reply

  • michael goulish: Does anyone here know the last year when Chanel no. 5 Eau de Cologne was made? Does anyone know why it was discontinued? October 28, 2016 at 9:25am Reply

  • Surbhi: I generally wear Eau de Magnolia to work meetings (specially board rooms etc). Great for summer. But I don’t really like it in winter, rainy, foggy day.

    I have to attend a breakfast event for work in a very formal setting on such a weather. My perfect scent for this weather is musc ravageur. But I won’t wear it when surrounded by “C” level people (maybe I should). Le fille de berlin? Any other recommendations for scents that feel like confidence booster in room full of power people ? October 28, 2016 at 3:48pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: Something from Boadicea the Victorious! Maybe Serenade? October 29, 2016 at 6:11am Reply

    • Lily: If you do any chypre, perhaps Silences (Jocomo). It is a scent I like best on foggy/rainy days, as it has this mysterious quality to it. Seems very suited to that weather to me. And that is such an unexpected style of perfume (bitter green, herbal rush, just a hint of musk and flower and soap if aldehydes go soapy on you) that it can read as a power scent – you certainly don’t wear it by accident nor if you are trying to fit in. Good luck! October 29, 2016 at 10:29am Reply

    • Tati: When I have to do a public event, my go-to is Soir de Lune, by Sisley. To me the perfect balance between private and public. October 30, 2016 at 2:53am Reply

    • spe: Noire Epices or Geranium pour Monsieur. October 30, 2016 at 6:13pm Reply

    • Aurora: Chanel No 19 maybe, or Goutal l’Heure Exquise. November 1, 2016 at 5:41am Reply

  • Troy: I like wearing Bond 9 New York Signature. It’s a brassy oud that I find interesting. It is linear which I’m fine with but on cloudy cool days I’d like to layer it with something that strikes a deeper gong note, possibly an amber. I wear Opium for men and women (love both) but I think they might be too sweet to play well with Bond New York. Any ideas? October 29, 2016 at 10:16pm Reply

    • Aurora: If you go down the amber route, I can highly recommend Yves Rocher Voile d’Ambre, very good and very affordable. L’Artisan Parfumeur Ambre Extreme also, the regular one would not be able to compete with the Bond. Also, perhaps you could amp the oud by layering with a good oud. Do you know Montale? It has a large selection of ouds so you could find which you like best. I sampled their Full Incense which I found impressive. Good luck! November 2, 2016 at 5:54am Reply

  • Tracy: I’ve just discovered Arquiste’s Anima Dulcis and I am becoming obsessed with it – I didn’t think I’d be attracted to something close to gourmand (I remember wincing at Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille for being to candied; not a fan of Angel).

    Any spicy bitter dark chocolate parfum recommendation? October 30, 2016 at 6:40pm Reply

    • Aurora: Perhaps you would like Montale Chocolate Greedy it has cocoa + coffee among its notes. Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule also has a beautiful chocolate note but you might find it too sweet, you could sample it though. November 1, 2016 at 8:44am Reply

      • Tracy: Thank you Aurora; Santal Majuscule is def. on my list. I’ve just purchased a full bottle of Anima Dulcis too!

        (and my appreciation for your reply/replies; your knowledge is vast and impressive!) November 2, 2016 at 3:07am Reply

  • Stephanie: A few years ago I had a decant of Comme des Garçons Series 2: Red Carnation, which I loved for fall and winter for its warmth and spicy sweetness. I’m having an extremely difficult time finding it now – does anyone have any recommendations for a carnation fragrance of a similar character? October 31, 2016 at 1:06pm Reply

    • Aurora: You could try Caron Bellodgia, it’s a beautiful carnation. November 1, 2016 at 5:52am Reply

  • greenjean: i could kick myself for being financially restrained when i wanted to buy dk’s black cashmere. now it is gone.

    what do you recommend as a substitute?

    i already own sl ambre sultan and hermes ambre narguile (i learned about both of them here). i even have a decant of tom ford’s sahara noir. in comparison to cashmere, sahara seems one dimensional.

    i’m looking for dark, smoke, shifting impressions.

    i am thinking of buying chanel bois des iles if i can’t find smoke….

    thank you for your thoughts and your time.

    i much prefer black cashmere to sahara noir. cashmere had much more to show me than sahara. October 31, 2016 at 4:01pm Reply

    • Aurora: Maybe you would like Donna Karan Wenge (I have it), it shares some of the DNA of BC. November 1, 2016 at 5:58am Reply

      • greenjean: thank you, aurora. i’ll sample it. November 1, 2016 at 8:56am Reply

    • Victoria: Have you tried Diptyque Tam Dao? It’s less smoky and less heavy on incense, but it’s another great woody blend. November 2, 2016 at 12:42pm Reply

  • DT: I’ve fallen in love with a fragrance from Burberry called “Baby Touch” a few years ago but unfortunately, it’s an EDT and the scent fades very quickly. I really wish they have a perfume edition, but they don’t have it. Although I have tried other Burberry perfume, all of them didn’t have the type of scent that I like.
    I was wondering if you have any recommendation that is similar to this fragrance. October 31, 2016 at 7:59pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello: You could sample Dulcis in Fundo by Profumum, it shares many of its notes with Baby Touch and might last longer. November 1, 2016 at 1:34pm Reply

  • Em: Is perfume international?

    I’m from the Northwestern US and will be traveling in the southern hemisphere next month. I want to take just one or two perfumes that will work for the season down under, but don’t want to waft the smell of The Ugly (Stinky) American. I will be doing outdoorsy, beachy things and a few semi-formal dinners. I have few niche perfumes but can choose from a decent selection of good scents from most of the high-profile houses–Chanel. Prada, Ford, Guerlain. I love rose/iris/chypre/incense. If I had to discard all but one of my perfumes, I probably would keep the Samsara.

    Instead of finding a tailor in Hong Kong, maybe I should find a place to buy perfume? And what scent should I take to Australia?

    First-world concerns, I know! October 31, 2016 at 9:25pm Reply

    • Victoria: Then take Samsara. I don’t think you can go wrong with a favorite, although in the warm climate, you might have to apply it judiciously. November 2, 2016 at 12:50pm Reply

  • Liz: Can any wearer comment on Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie? November 6, 2016 at 5:46pm Reply

    • Tati: Hi Liz,
      Une Fleur de Cassie is probably in my top three perfumes of all time. I love mimosa and wear Jo Malone Cardamom and Mimosa daytime casual, but Fleur de Cassie is much more complex and beautiful. It smells warm and golden, and it projects nicely. Lots of compliments. November 6, 2016 at 9:01pm Reply

      • Victoria: I agree with Tati. There is nothing like it. It can be an acquired taste, though, so it’s best to get a sample first. November 7, 2016 at 4:01am Reply

  • Mustafa Alameldin: I would like to share with you my thoughts about an amazing and innovative perfume from the house of Dunhill Desire Black, Top notes are black pepper, bergamot and grapefruit; middle notes are saffron, cypress and rose; base notes are vetiver, olibanum and amber. The scent is intense altering perception and inspire with courage and initiation a true legend for a heroic men, one of my favorites, best in winter at night time November 8, 2016 at 3:37pm Reply

    • Aurora: Thank you for sharing, Mustafa. I am so glad you found a scent to inspire you so. Enjoy! November 15, 2016 at 8:31am Reply

  • Nina: I currently rotate between Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Extraordinaire’s Precious Oud and Orchidee Vanile from the same line, Serge Lutense A La Nuit, Frederic Malle Carnal Flower, Nasomatto Narcotic Venus and Shalimar Parfum Initial. One frangrance that I also love and is more on the commercial side is Armani Code Satin. Can some kind reader please reccomen some new scents, because although I love all fragrances I mentioned, I would like to smell something new on me. As you can see from the fragrances I listed, my vibes are white floral, tuberose, warm spicy, animalic, balsamic. I also love powdery notes. November 12, 2016 at 9:43am Reply

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