Everyone has different goals for their skincare routine. Some people seek to reverse sun damage. Others want a product that will control shine or minimize the look of their pores. Different age groups also have different concerns, as do people who live in different climates. But if your goal is to find a simple skincare solution that will nourish the skin and leave it brighter and fresher, I would like to share a few things that work for me.
The biggest change in my skincare routine happens in the fall when I start using more exfoliating products like alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) or a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) lotions and serums. Although one reads that neither acids nor retinol increase sun sensitivity and can be used all year round, I made a point of verifying it with several dermatologists, and they agreed that anything that exfoliates the skin will make it more sensitive. Which means that using heavy exfoliation in the summer will either negate the results or leave the skin damaged.
In general, besides adding new exfoliating products into my routine, I also simplify it. My skin doesn’t react to seasonal changes in the fall as much as it does in the winter or spring, and as I’m becoming more and more convinced, less is sometimes better. In the evening especially, there is no need to lard the skin with 10 different products. Active ingredients like Vitamin C, AHA, BHA, retinols, etc. work best on their own. Your skin will take care of the rest itself.
Morning
Cleanser: I wash my face with the usual soap-free, foaming cleanser (La Roche-Posay Toleriane or J&J Purpose).
Toner: rosewater is one of the best natural toners, but I have been using NIOD’s Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist (SDSM2) and enjoying its softening effect on my skin. A toner often seems like an afterthought, but it does help to prepare the skin for other products. Wait for the toner to absorb into the skin before proceeding onto the next step.
Another product type that I sometimes use instead of toner is called essence. It’s a thin liquid, but it’s thicker than a typical toner. A favorite is SKII Essence, which hydrates as well as brightens the skin.
Brightening Serum: for brightening, you can go several routes. You can use a mixture of Arbutin and Niacinamide serums (such as the two by The Ordinary, The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin serum and The Ordinary Niacinamide serum). Or you can use a Vitamin C serum such as The Ordinary Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate Solution 10% or any other from this list.
I also like The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%. The texture is slightly granular, but I’ve learned to apply a small amount by tapping it into my skin. It does leave skin a bit shiny, but once you apply a moisturizer and a sunscreen, the shine goes away. Don’t use Niacinamide and Vitamin C together however. It’s either one or another.
Moisturizer: my skin is combination, so it doesn’t need heavy moisturizing. I usually use a hyaluronic acid-based lotion like Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion or Clinique Moisture Surge Hydrating Concentrate. Since in the fall I use creamier, more moisturizing sunscreens, I may use a thicker hyaluronic acid serum like Hylamide Booster Low-Molecular HA Serum instead of a classical moisturizer.
Sunscreen: Sunscreen is a must, but this is something that’s true all year round. I like the creamy Dr. Ci Labo UV&White Moisture Milk PA++++ for everyday.
Evening
Double Cleansing: I remove makeup and sunscreen with an oil-based cleanser such as DHC Cleansing Oil. (If I’d used waterproof makeup that day, I reach for a separate makeup remover.) Then I wash my face with a soap-free, foaming cleanser (La Roche-Posay Toleriane or J&J Purpose).
Exfoliating: The next step is the final one in my evening skincare. I use either an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) or a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) serum or lotion to gently exfoliate my face. Among my favorite AHA products are Paula’s Choice Weekly Resurfacing Treatment With 10% AHA, Biologique Recherche Lotion P50W, and Neostrata Resurface Lotion AHA 15. For BHA, I turn to Paula’s Choice once again. Her Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is a good concentration for me.
Another exfoliating option is retinol. The Ordinary Retinol 1% is the one I use. I haven’t yet started with it this fall, however.
Generally, I use acid serums or retinol lotions 2-3 times a week. Of course, they can be used more often, but I find that this makes my skin too dry and too sensitive. 2-3 times a week is enough to make it bright, without any negative side effects. On the days when I don’t use the exfoliants, I instead apply my usual Vitamin C serum. Vitamin C is one of the most effective and beneficial skincare ingredients, and it can be used both morning and evening. (But if you’re new to using it, please refer to my Vitamin C guide for more instructions.)
Or I use nothing at all after washing my face. Sometimes it also good to let skin take care of itself.
Extra: Skincare Routines and Advice
What are your skincare favorites right now?
Photography by Bois de Jasmin
65 Comments
Annie: Thank you! I love your skincare posts. How often should I use AHA if I’m only starting? My skin isn’t sensitive. October 27, 2017 at 9:12am
Victoria: I would start once a week and then increase gradually. Even if your skin isn’t sensitive, it’s best to be conservative at first. October 29, 2017 at 8:26am
kat: My current skin-care favorite is the Bioderma Sensibio face mask. I’m normally not a big fan of face masks but this has such a nice texture and really works on my sensitive skin without issues. I actually prefer it to the Avene Tolerance mask.
But what catapulted it into holy grail territory is that it also works as a general skin emergency treatment for redness, itchiness etc. Since heating season has started my eczema has been acting up again and whenever the sleeping dragon awakes (i.e. turns from simply dry patch to angry itchy red) I apply this for calming everything down before following with the usual treatment to deal with the underlying problem. It’s extremely soothing and moisturizing and really helps with the (tiresome) routine my winter skin demands. October 27, 2017 at 9:23am
Sandra: October is Eczema awareness month.. October 27, 2017 at 12:50pm
Maria: Same here!! Besides the traditional Avène and La Roche Posay treatments, I’ve found Anne Marie Borlind sensitive skincare to be very soothing, as well as Weleda Almond line and Weleda Malva line. I’ve never been able of using AHA’s, neither vitamin C, because of my sensitive skin, so I add some radiance on fall and winter with red lips and a colorful scarf 😉 October 27, 2017 at 1:28pm
Sandra: We sound like we have similar skin!
I will look into those other lines… October 27, 2017 at 1:46pm
Lindaloo: Thanks for the info about the Bioderma mask. I haven’t been a fan since the good old days of Orlane.
I have redness from time to time, so I look forward to trying this. October 27, 2017 at 7:10pm
Victoria: It’s an excellent line of Avene in general, so I can see how it would work well for someone with eczema. Good luck, Kat! Hope that it stays under control. October 29, 2017 at 8:27am
Austenfan: Thanks for this seasonal update!
I purchased 2 new products from The Ordinary: Resveratrol & Ferulic Acid and the EUK 134. Too early to tell what they are doing, but they are supposedly good antioxidants so time will tell.
Apart from that, just adding oils a bit more often in the evening, but since I still haven’t started heating my house my skin is not too dry yet.
Oh and a small question; do you prefer the Retinol 1% to the Retinoid serum from TO? October 27, 2017 at 9:32am
Kayliz: Austenfan, I‘ve added the Resveratrol & Ferulic Acid too, and am also optimistic. (I passed on the other one after deciding I didn‘t understand it, and in a general spirit of paring down to a few products. For a while at least:) October 27, 2017 at 10:35am
Victoria: Kayliz, Austenfan, please let me know how it works for you. October 29, 2017 at 8:43am
Austenfan: I think their effects will not be as immediate as for instance with the 23 Vit.C or the Retinols, with both those two my skin looks better in the morning when I’ve put either of them on at night. But I kind of approach them like I used to approach my dogs diet. Use different things at different times and anti-oxidants are just sort of good for keeping one’s skin healthy.
And I hope you keep your sanity in spite of the swamping! October 29, 2017 at 10:32am
Victoria: Thank you! Somehow will manage. 🙂
Sounds good. I was looking into it too, but since I want to use up the skincare I have, I will wait to try it. October 29, 2017 at 11:32am
Victoria: I can’t say that I prefer one over another, because they have almost the same effect on my skin. The 1% Retinol might be less sensitizing, though. October 29, 2017 at 8:28am
briony: Thank you for sharing your routine. I too use many of The Ordinary products. I almost gave up on the Vitamin C 23% as I found it very gritty and uncomfortable but I’ve now found that mixing it with a few drops of hyaluronic acid does the trick and makes it much easier to tolerate. October 27, 2017 at 10:27am
sara levy: The grittiness bothered me; I found that rubbing it between my palms before applying helps. Applying to a damp face also helped me. October 27, 2017 at 11:35am
Sherry: There is a new 30% vitamin c in silicone base from the ordinary line. I bought it over a month ago and found this was much easier to apply as a base layer. The 23% formula doesn’t blend well with the moisturizer. I have been using it (23%) alone and found it did give my face a radiant glow the next morning. Happy experimenting! October 29, 2017 at 10:29am
Victoria: Does it feel much heavier than the original version? October 29, 2017 at 3:53pm
Sherry: It does feel heavier but a few messages would even it out on my skin. Compared with the 23% formula this was drier, on the skin it gives almost a mattefied finish therefore better for laying. The 23% was an excellent formula but it did leave an oily shine on my face. Whatever I put on afterwards would just peel off therefore I just use it as is. October 29, 2017 at 7:29pm
Victoria: Thank you. Yes, I also find that some products peel off with the 23% formula. Not all sunscreens, for instance, work well. But because I generally use it in the evening, it’s ok. Still, it’s good to have other options. October 30, 2017 at 2:32am
B in Tx: I just picked this up myself, and went for the 30% and online recommendations… although will definitely use in AM, as I don’t want silicones to lay on my skin at night. It feels like a good primer layer for under makeup to me — very smooth, with slight Vit C “tingle” but not harsh at all, for 30%.
Also went to find my (ancient) little bottle (still use for travel w/LAA powder) of .25 Philosophy “hope and a prayer topical a.m. Vit C powder” that comes w/ tiny micro measuring spoon — this is great for adding to sunscreen & moisturizers, hyluronic serum and about 12 years ago sold for about $38 for the .25 bottle of powder. Like the other The Ordinary formula, it’s a bit gritty unless you keep a tiny airplane bottle if vodka to dissolve first (per many DIY Ferulic/Skinceuticals hyluronic serum recipes).
Now I buy ultrafine powdered LAA on Amazon or Formulator’s warehouse. Great for making thicker, paste spot treatments for spots on hand (yes, I got rid of one on my left hand) before sunscreen in the morning. February 4, 2018 at 1:18am
Victoria: Yes, it’s a great product, despite the texture. I usually just apply it alone, but then I follow after a couple of minutes with something else, and the grittiness goes away. October 29, 2017 at 8:31am
Ann: Victoria I have to thank you for your skincare posts, they are wonderful and have helped me to create solid skin care routines.
I especially love my 5 minutes at night when I wash and treat my face – everyone knows not to disturb me, and my husband loves how my face smells (just clean really 🙂
I found that my Paula’s Choice resist 2% bha began to smell of garlic – not sure if it could have turned? But I contacted Paula’s choice and while they did not know, they sent me a sample of the Gel 2% bha, which I like because of the consistency – easier to apply than the liquid – so I think I will order that next time. October 27, 2017 at 10:28am
Victoria: My guess is that a bottle got contaminated, but the gel is far better, I think. I also just tried a sample, and next time I place an order I will definitely get it instead. October 29, 2017 at 8:42am
Sandra: I love these posts!
I still waiting for the Japanese beauty secrets 🙂
I used Ordinary line is great for so many people and I started slowing using a regime in April, something in the products really aggravates my PD (peri-oral dermatitis) I have switched back to my soothing routine with not many layers of this and that and my skin has gone back less red and irritated.
I just thought I would share if someone has the same skin condition as myself and is thinking of trying it out.
One sunblock I have come to adore is Anessa Mild for Sensitive Skin, I found it at a Japanese /Korean beauty store here in NYC and have been using it since the summer. October 27, 2017 at 11:29am
Victoria: I have that one drafted someplace, but I’m a bit swamped with work these days to take a look through my mags and prepare something proper. It’s waiting for its turn, though.
It’s one of my favorite Anessa sunscreens too. October 29, 2017 at 8:45am
Kayliz: Many thanks for your skincare tips, Victoria! My skin is now radically improved after I started Vitamin C a few months ago. I owe that to your posts here!
Current evening routine for my dry post-menopausal skin:
– oil cleanser (Simple when I can get it; otherwise the own-brand one from the DM drugstore chain here in Germany)
– sometimes foam cleanser, more often 2x oil cleanse
– witch hazel water and/or rose water
– The Ordinary Vitamin C 23% with a few drops of Resveratrol & Ferulic Acid on face, with Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate plus R&FA for eyes and neck; or
– Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion with Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate.
Mornings:
– oil cleanse, or Lush Aqua Marina in the shower
– rosewater / witch hazel
– Whamisa Deep Rich toner, or a DIY version: a blob of aloe vera gel, a drop of oil or squalane, and a spray of rosewater mixed together
– hyaluronic acid (currently MMHC2)
– Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate
– Niacinamide & Zinc
– Lush Imperialis light moisturiser
– a few drops of oil (currently camelia or rosehip) mixed with rosewater
– mineral sunscreen (Lab. Biarritz Alga Maris tinted and/or white lotion).
No AHA: my skin can‘t tolerate it. No BHA: prolonged testing didn‘t do anything for me. I use a microfibre mitt (also own-brand DM) for the oil cleanse.
No chemical sunscreens at the moment. The Biarritz one is only SPF30, but that‘s still better than anything I used in all the preceding decades;) In summer it‘ll be back to careful experimentation, but any signs of enlarged pores will have me settling for the SPF30. The other sunscreens I’ve been using (La Roche-Posay, ISDIN, Paula’s Choice) are my prime suspects for the uglified pores and persistent blackheads I‘ve experienced these past six months. October 27, 2017 at 11:40am
Victoria: Generally, it’s the mineral sunscreens that cause such issues, but everyone is different. Also, worth noting what types of silicones your products use, because some like dimethicone are very hard to remove, and they may cause problems. October 29, 2017 at 8:54am
Kayliz: I was surprised too, esp since the mineral sunscreen contains a coconut oil derivative…go figure. I doubt it‘s a cleansing problem, but you never know. November 1, 2017 at 6:03pm
Victoria: Or maybe it might be summer and weather related. November 3, 2017 at 12:35pm
Kayliz: That‘s a thought! I think it’s going to take a while to figure this out, and your input is greatly appreciated! I‘m still very new to this kind of routine, I‘m noticing;) November 4, 2017 at 8:12am
Austenfan: Have you tried TO Azelaic Acid? It’s a gentle exfoliator that will brighten your skin as well. It might actually be my favourite of the acids. October 31, 2017 at 8:47am
Kayliz: Oh, Azelaic Acid, there‘s an idea, I definitely will try it, thanks! November 1, 2017 at 6:01pm
Carla: I just glanced at the latest French Elle and they have a lot on skincare this week. Lots of talk of double cleansing. Read it here first! October 27, 2017 at 10:53pm
Victoria: 🙂 It’s been ages since I read Elle or other magazines (apart from the Japanese ones) to learn about skincare. October 29, 2017 at 8:55am
Notturno7: Thank you, Victoria!
I shared your previous post with a friend. She told me she had been using Ordinary skin care and gave me a tube of their Vitamin C serum that didn’t work well on her skin.
She also gave me Bonvivant botanical masks and I love these! ❤️ They are inexpensive online, too, and my skin feels very well moisturized afterwards.
Sometimes I squeeze extra liquid out of the masks in the little jar and pat in on my face as a serum later that day or next morning because there is so much ‘juice’ in the masks. October 28, 2017 at 5:46am
Victoria: Enjoy! I hope that it will work well for you. Just start once or twice a week at first and then increase gradually. October 29, 2017 at 8:56am
Jen: Question- for those of you who use Asian sunscreen in the US. You don’t get skeeved out buying sunscreen on the ‘grey market’/don’t notice problems in quality? I love the the Glossier sunscreen, which i understand has the beautiful watery texture of some Asian brands, but it’s very expensive in comparison. October 28, 2017 at 12:25pm
Sandra: There are some stores in NYC that sell Japanese sunscreens and have testers. Amazon is much cheaper though but at least you don’t have to wait weeks to get it… October 28, 2017 at 12:32pm
Kate: I buy in the UK, which has similar ‘grey market’ issues. I always check that reviews are from Verified purchase reviews, that there are plenty of them, and that the packaging is up to date. I haven’t had any issues in the last 3 years, and but 6-8 bottles of sunscreen a year. Victoria’s sunscreen recommendations have changed my skin for the better – many thanks! October 28, 2017 at 1:08pm
Jen: Thanks for the feedback! I may have to give it a go. October 28, 2017 at 11:33pm
Victoria: I’m so glad to hear this, Kate! October 29, 2017 at 3:54pm
Victoria: I would pay attention to the expiration dates and make sure to buy from sellers in Japan (I mostly use only the Japanese sunscreens). October 29, 2017 at 8:57am
B in Tx: Is there a reason for this? Are Japanese sunscreens superior? February 4, 2018 at 1:27am
Victoria: Yes. Better and more effective active ingredients and cosmetically very elegant. February 4, 2018 at 5:12am
Aurora: Many thanks for this useful update, Victoria. I only exfoliated a couple of times this summer with the strong Ordinary AHA-BHA and the only product I used consistently was sunscreen and my skin behaved quite well. Like you now that it’s fall, I reach for the other Ordinary products again, the MAP in the morning, the Vitamin C suspension at night in alternance with the retinoid 2% serum. I change cleansers sometimes I use Neutrogena hyaluronique gelee followed by a miscellar water Bioderma for eg or Guinot and Iranian rose water in which I add essential oils (lavender, geranium, niaouli) and sometimes I just cleanse once when I have not worn makeup. October 29, 2017 at 10:27am
Victoria: That sounds like a great routine. I also like to vary the evening routine, since even though my skin can handle retinol/retinoid ok, once the heating is on, it does feel drier. But even using it a couple of times a week I see good results. October 29, 2017 at 11:31am
Severine: Hi, I like Deceim and Perricone MD serums. Ever since I started making my own moisturizer, I find nothing like it on the market. I even make my own antioxidant extracts, which take months to prepare. But I love my home product. If anyone is curious about what they are I will be happy to tell them.
For masks nothing beats my fridge and kitchen cabinet. Now that is money well-spent. October 29, 2017 at 10:21pm
Victoria: Please do share, Severine.
For masks, I also like to raid my fridge, although a good sheet mask is so convenient, especially when traveling. 🙂 October 30, 2017 at 2:31am
Severine: Recipe no. 1 has following ingredients:
– unrefined rose hip oil (this is orange-golden in color because of vitamin c and tritinoin. Very different from refined variety used in commercial creams. The unrefined changes color of cream which is not good for marketing product.
– green tea extract from matcha which is a super- food with L-ergothioniene.
– pistachio extract with contains protein and a vit e. Makes cream green.
– black tea extract.
– borage seed oil. Super rich in GLA.
– licorice root extract. Inhibits melanin.
– fermented sea kelp. Humectant.
– cacao seed extract. Contains polyphenols especially anthocyanin.
– fennel and cardamom extracts
– cinnamon extract
– dash of alpha lipoic acid and alpha- arbutin.
– lavender oil. Anti-inflammatory, anti- fungal.
And smells nice.
– lecithin. October 30, 2017 at 2:27pm
Severine: I read an article on making hand cream. I wasn’t satisfied with the result but the idea was so intriguing, I started researching it and ended up with my own creams! October 30, 2017 at 2:41pm
Severine: Of course how I make extracts and end up with a cream is another story!!! October 30, 2017 at 2:44pm
Severine: Hey recommend me some sheet masks! There are so many in the market I don’t know where to start. October 31, 2017 at 1:16pm
Victoria: To be honest, I don’t have a specific brand in mind. Since I’m often in Asia for work, I simply go to a beauty store and buy whatever has good ingredients (and no alcohol, silicones, unnecessary fillers). SKII makes good ones, but they’re very expensive, and I use them only if I get them as freebies with my purchase of the Essence.
But one tip I learned from the Japanese magazines is to use my regular lotion for a quick mask. I wrote about it here.
https://boisdejasmin.com/2015/04/a-day-of-beauty-and-scents.html
It works as well as any premade mask. November 1, 2017 at 3:02am
Gabriela: Yes, please do share with us! October 30, 2017 at 5:05am
Severine: The above are all the ingredients I use. I add nothing else. It becomes a spongey emulsion. October 30, 2017 at 2:39pm
Gabriela: Sounds wonderful! Thank you. October 30, 2017 at 5:12pm
B in Tx: I’m facinated by your recipe! I’m also a big DIY, and from my fridge beauty type (mostly avocado/olive oil w/ essential oils, or honey/banana masks etc) & always do my own Vit C /hylaluronic serum fresh daily.
I’m curious where you source all these fabulous ingredients, and how do you store raw materials between batches? I’ve used Formulator’s Wardhouse & now Amazon, but haven’t done anything as complex as yours (looks divine!). Have thought of adding calendula & allantoin to some moisturizers when having issues w/ hives or rocacea, etc.
I love the entire DIY fresh skincare concept, altgough always love a great pre-made product too! Mostly, I find making my own oil blends better & far more economical — as well as Vit C serum, which is so easier & less oxidized if mixed fresh daily. February 4, 2018 at 1:39am
Laura: Tretenion (Retin A) is my gold standard skin care product. I’ve been using it for over twenty years. While it may seem very expensive compared to other products, a tube can last 4-6 months. My advice- start at a low strength, using one time per week. Then slowly increase to 2-3x per week. November 1, 2017 at 8:06am
Laura: Also, my newest love is Hada Labo gokujyun premium hyaluronic milky lotion. Wow, this stuff is fantastic! November 1, 2017 at 8:19am
Victoria: I love it too. November 3, 2017 at 12:29pm
Victoria: It’s an excellent product, but in Belgium it’s not easy to find, and most dermatologists won’t prescribe it. November 3, 2017 at 12:29pm
B in Tx: Wow, I find that so odd that they win’t Rx it? I still get it Rx’d … and approved, at my age (I can still get a cystic nodule if w/ certain HRT – thst contain testosterone). Also, so many women with polycystic ovarian disease also get skin issues, and Retin A works (along w/ Spironolactone).
I’m honestly surprised lower trength prescription strength is not available OTC now, as it can stop/reverse precancerous lesions etc. That is regulatory over reach, but that’s another topic for another blog;). [ Have had 1 too many legit Rx’s denied by insurer since beginning of this year, with outrageous co-pays of up to $700! Some for very old, plant-based medicines like colchicine for gout & another for an extended release antibiotic. What’s up with pharmaceutical drug plans in 2018? Very crazy, even with a “great” major medical plan?! Sorry for digressing — but! My Retin A is authorized, and covered;) February 4, 2018 at 1:59am
B in Tx: Same here! It was revolutionary about 30 yrs ago, when I was first prescribed for Cystic acne in my 30’s! Also, challenging to to start because early formulations harsh for beginners.
Truly a game changer! I’m so thankful now, for nearly wrinkle-free plump skin at my age, with my own daughter now that age w/ post-cystic acne issues (it was a struggle for her in high school to adapt to Retin A dry skin, peeling in early weeks).
As wonderful as Vit C is, I think 2nd to sunscreen, nothing helps your skin stay young in so many ways, like the retinoids.
Truly my Holy Grail — and I’ve used it on hands, forearms, and decolletè too since turning 40 (a few decades ago;)! February 4, 2018 at 1:48am
Sophia Alves: Great article! Very interesting and informative. Thank you very much for sharing 🙂 November 15, 2017 at 8:16am