My Selection of 10 Fragrances for Fall

I always look to that moment when leaves start to fall; the air is filled with a mellow sweetness reminiscent of walnut shelves and faded leather. It makes me want to write poetry, find patterns in the intertwined bare branches, watch bittersweet Japanese films and contemplate the beauty of morning light. Such impulses tend to break against the shoals of my routine, but even so, I enjoy the autumnal moods and the element of fantasy.

I did, however, do some translations of Persian poetry, as I shared in my October Newsletter.

And indeed, fantasy and pleasure are the only criteria guiding my selection of perfumes for this fall. My list has room on it for different themes for different moods and for new favorites as well as beloved staples.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Mont de Narcisse

Some years ago, L’Artisan Parfumeur had a collection of so-called grand cru fragrances inspired by the best grades of orange blossom, iris and narcissus. Narcissus was the most intriguing, because smelling this note interpreted as a complete perfume, rather than an accent, made me realize how close narcissus is to leather and woods. The same theme returns this year with Mont de Narcisse. It’s signed by Anne Flipo, the same perfumer responsible for the long-vanished grand cru, but the idea is more complex. And more interesting, I should say. Narcissus is accented with cardamom and osmanthus, another floral note that inches close to leather, to make a multifaceted, elegant scent.

Chantal Thomass Eau de Parfum

A blend of cherries, vanilla, powder, and raspberries made today would make one’s blood sugar rise at the mere inhale. But Chantal Thomass Eau de Parfum dates from those distant times, like around 2002, when it was fine to make a distinction between a fragrance and a flavor. So, it’s as fun and sassy as Chantal Thomass’s lingerie, with the sweetness balanced out by woods and orange blossom.

Prada Infusion de Mandarine

Mandarin is unique among citrus essences for having a note reminiscent of Concord grapes or wild strawberries. In Prada’s new perfume, it’s blended with tuberose and orange blossom to highlight this sweet, fruity facet. The finish of velvety musk and balsamic notes that smell of vanilla and cinnamon makes mandarin shine. A cologne that’s plush enough for a cold autumnal day.

Boucheron Tubéreuse de Madras

I had an unforgettable experience visiting tuberose fields in India, and the fragrance of white blossoms, warm and opulent in the evening air, has stayed with me. Tubéreuse de Madras was inspired by perfumer Christophe Raynaud’s trip to India, and as a lush and enveloping composition of tuberose, frangipani, ylang-ylang, sandalwood and vanilla, it’s a beautiful tribute.

Guerlain Shalimar in all of its forms

Come cool days, and I want Shalimar in all of its forms, the Eau de Parfum, extrait de parfum, Souffle de Parfum, or the Eau de Toilette. It never fails to amaze me how this bergamot-rich fragrance, almost a cologne, manages to be so seductive.

Penhaligon’s Cairo

Penhaligon’s perfumes are a mixed bag for me, but their latest release, Cairo, is charming. Based around a warm rose note, it layers it with woods, saffron, patchouli and incense. The result is radiant and bright, but with enough duskiness to add complexity.

Hermès 24, Faubourg

Perfumer Maurice Roucel is known for his smoldering compositions, and yet what I particularly enjoy about them is that they’re not the stereotyped cliches of roses petals, sugary vanilla or amber. Even when using these notes, Roucel creates radiant, elegant, and wistful fragrances. Such as 24, Faubourg.

Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Brume pour Les Cheveux Portrait of A Lady

The hair fragrance from Frédéric Malle turned out to be such a nice discovery that I wanted to share it. I liked the Portrait of A Lady version, which retains the dark roses and musky woods of the original, but adds more luminosity. The fragrance lasts and diffuses remarkably well, whether you use it on hair or clothes. It does contain some alcohol, but in a smaller quantity than a traditional perfume and in a cocktail of moisturizing ingredients. At 150€ for 100ml it’s less expensive than the Eau de Parfum.

Annick Goutal Duel

Tea fragrances are by and large rather dull. Whatever they promise–the smell of Taiwanese oolong, jasmine pearls or matcha–rarely materializes, because many perfumers shy away from a bitter touch that’s essential to a tea accord. Also, tea is complex, and capturing its nuances with a few aromatics is difficult. Duel, on the other hand, doesn’t aim to be a green tea fragrance, but it smells like one. The bitterness of green leaves, soft leather, and the dark sweetness of violets are blended into a harmonious whole.

Thierry Mugler Angel

I also have been reaching for Angel, though less because I had a specific craving for it, but because it kept coming up as a reference in my work. The first time I smelled it I remember thinking that it was a sugar bomb. As with Chantal Thomass (see above), Angel smells remarkably austere next to modern gourmands. Like it or not, it has become a classic.

Please take a look at the other autumnal lists by Grain de Musc :: Now Smell This :: The Non-Blonde

Photography by Bois de Jasmin

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88 Comments

  • Cyndi: Thank you for your recommendations! As always, a great article. I also love Shalimar and Angel during the cooler months – particularly Shalimar. I have never smelled the Boucheron or the L’Artisan but now I am curious and want to get samples of both. October 12, 2018 at 9:18am Reply

    • Victoria: I like florals for when it gets colder, although honestly I like them all year round. October 15, 2018 at 9:10am Reply

  • Nora Szekely: Hi Victoria and perfume lovers,
    My top 5 autum list :
    1. Portrait of a lady, body oil, edp and hair scent. I just received a sample of the hair mist and it’s adorable, I recommend to those who love the drydiwn of the scent. I own a full bottle of Carnal Flower hair mist, that one is amazing as well and lasts all day on hair and scarves.
    2. Chanel no. 5 I bought the pure perfume, it is divine in rainy weather or on colder days.
    3. 24 Faubourg Edt – lovely autumn mood scent, I feel so sophisticated when wearing it
    4. Escale a Portofino Indian summer just started in Hungary and I reach for this citrusy light perfume often to wear with my sundresses during the day.
    5. Poison – it really blooms on my skin in extreme cold ut I started wearing it as I cannot wait for those cold winter days spent in my blue faux fur coat, walking in the Christmas Fair, mulled wine at hand. October 12, 2018 at 9:19am Reply

    • kpaint: Have you ever worn Poison on a warm summer day? Because it’s so big, I tended to think of it as a cold-weather perfume, but once I wore it in the heat I realized that’s when it really shines. The way it blooms is amazing – I can smell every twist and turn from beginning to end. October 12, 2018 at 11:15am Reply

      • Nora Szekely: I haven’t yet tried in summer, I didn’t dare. I will do, thanks for the recomendation. October 13, 2018 at 3:32am Reply

    • K: Hi Nora,

      Do you think the Carnal Flower hair mist could be substituted for the EDP, and treated like an EDT? Here in Australia, the 100ml edp is $475! I want to save money! Do they smell basically similar? If so, I want to switch to the hair mist October 12, 2018 at 11:19pm Reply

      • Nora Szekely: Hi K,
        I have both, and I think the hair mist is a good substitute for the EDP. It lasts longer on hair and fabric than on skin. I also use Coco Mademoiselle hair mist instead of the EDP. October 13, 2018 at 3:27am Reply

        • Nora Szekely: One more thing: I tried Eau de Soleil Blanc by Tom Ford and found it similar to Carnal Flower. I recommend it, it’s not cheap buz cheaper than Carnal Flower. October 13, 2018 at 5:03am Reply

          • K: Fantastic! I will get the hair mist after I finish my current edp bottle, and I’m definitely intrigued by Soleil Blanc now!! October 13, 2018 at 6:01am Reply

          • Sandra: Thanks, Nora! I’ll have to try Ford Eau de Soleil Blanc now as I love my Carnal Flower spray. It’s so rich, I love it!
            I used to have Poison, too. I wonder if it still smells the same or they reformulated it.
            You and kpaint are making me miss it now. 😉 October 26, 2018 at 3:33am Reply

    • Jane: Portrait of a Lady hairmist! I was wondering what it would smell like. That sounds wonderful. October 13, 2018 at 4:59pm Reply

    • Victoria: What a beautiful and inspiring list and descriptions!

      I noticed that you’ve picked 24 Faubourg Edt. Do you prefer it over the EDP? October 15, 2018 at 9:11am Reply

  • Ariadne: Always love your photos of Brussels’ building toppers! Maybe someone will design a perfume bottle inspired by them. Your list is very intriguing and has me plotting some sampling. ;+) October 12, 2018 at 9:33am Reply

    • Carla: Brussels is a very interesting city! Worth a visit – and Amsterdam too October 12, 2018 at 9:46am Reply

    • Victoria: That’s Paris (there is a bit of the French flag visible). There are similar buildings around Brussels, though. October 15, 2018 at 9:12am Reply

  • Carla: Thank you for this list! I will have to try Mont de Narcisse, it sounds lovely. I have also rediscovered 24 Faubourg lately, and I think I would better like Portrait of a Lady with more “luminosity”. I have discovered Histoire d’Eau this fall, by Christine Nagel, and have been wearing it a lot. It was so nice and cheap and it’s easy to wear yet comforting for cooler weather. It was mentioned offhand in the new book of reviews by Luca and Tania and I always seem to hone in on the perfumes they mention offhandedly instead of reviewing outright. Like I dug out a treasure or something, it’s all in the perception I suppose. Well, I bought Histoire d’Eau instead of Nagel’s Galop, so expensive. (I have liked Christine Nagel since discovering she did Eau de Cartier, a staple since it came out in 2001 – I had thought for a while it was Ellena’s work.) October 12, 2018 at 9:45am Reply

    • Cybele: Thanks for mentioning Histoire d’Eau, I really need to try this! October 15, 2018 at 9:05am Reply

    • Victoria: Histoire d’Eau is definitely worth discovering. In general, Christine Nagel’s fragrances have such a distinctive fingerprint that even her most commercial blends have something original about them. October 15, 2018 at 9:19am Reply

  • Rickyrebarco: Great recommendation s. I look forward to some cooler weather and wearing Portrait of a Lady as well as Shalimar and Sheiduna. October 12, 2018 at 9:51am Reply

    • Victoria: Same here. Although this fall in Europe has been very warm. October 15, 2018 at 9:20am Reply

  • Klaas: Well, fall so far has been glorious and sunny in Amsterdam, with temperatures going over 25! So I’m still holding on to my summer scents. Harmatan Noir by Parfumerie General was a real find this summer, a cooling breeze of mint, tea, orange and jasmin.

    When the days eventually will get shorter and when temperatures will drop, I know I’ll want to reach for my Comme des Garçons Black. Its velvety blend of pepper, licorice, leather and smoke makes me purr with pleasure. To be worn in small doses 😉 October 12, 2018 at 10:03am Reply

    • Victoria: It’s bizarre though that we have such warm weather in fall, not that I’m complaining. I just find myself overdressed and not adjusted to the fact that I still need to keep my summer wardrobe in rotation.

      Speaking of CdG Black, the review is coming up. October 15, 2018 at 9:22am Reply

      • Klaas: Oh, I can’t wait to read it 😉 October 15, 2018 at 1:19pm Reply

  • Sandra: Curious about Boucheron and Cairo

    My fall favorite is also Shalimar in all its forms.

    I also have been wearing a lot of Coco, Prada infusion d’iris, Encens Mythique and Coco Noire body cream

    In the fall I tend to do a lot of reading (as you may know from my recent book purchases I emailed you about) and tea drinking. When my father in law comes to visit I will be drinking his homemade chai everyday which is perfect smell and taste for fall weather.

    I haven’t been reading much poetry but loved the one you shared in your newsletter. Here is my small contribution from Ondaatje’s Warlight:

    “When Handel had his breakdown, he was, according to my opera-loving mother, “the ideal man” in that state, honourable, loving the world he could no longer be a part of, even if the world was a place of continual war.” October 12, 2018 at 12:29pm Reply

    • Victoria: Thank you very much. I haven’t read anything by Ondaatje. October 15, 2018 at 9:23am Reply

      • Sandra: He won the man booker prize for The English Patient this year. October 15, 2018 at 9:53am Reply

      • Carla: I loved Ondaatje when I was young – 20 years ago! – but for some reason I did not like Warlight. I really am favoring female writers lately October 15, 2018 at 2:14pm Reply

        • Sandra: Its so interesting how different books capture you. I bought Warlight on a Monday afternoon and was finished with it Friday evening. I couldn’t put it down. Where as English Patient was a slow love affair.

          Which female writers are you reading? October 16, 2018 at 9:25am Reply

          • CArla: Usually if I don’t like a book I feel certain it’s because it’s not really that good. Yes I’m confident in my opinions! However with Warlight I felt it was more me, I just wasn’t receptive to it.
            I’ve mentioned female writers here – Madeline Miller, Eleanor Catton, Kate Atkinson. My friend just told me about an English publishing house, Persephone books, that publishes lost female writers. We were talking about how the love stories in Austen and Bronte books are so much more satisfying than in famous books by male writers like Flaubert and Tolstoy. October 16, 2018 at 12:49pm Reply

            • Sandra: Thanks for sharing these authors! October 16, 2018 at 1:39pm Reply

        • Victoria: I’ve picked up Circe by Madeline Miller, and it was wonderful. October 17, 2018 at 10:27am Reply

    • Andy: How lucky you are, to have freshly made chai each day when your father in law comes to visit. Do you know what spices he likes to use? When I’m busier, I make and refrigerate a big batch of chai concentrate (just a strong, strong infusion of chai spices and black tea) instead, and add it to steamed milk. It’s delicious, but not in the same league as freshly made. October 15, 2018 at 4:21pm Reply

      • Sandra: If he ever tells me I will keep you posted.
        One thing he does tell me that every time you make it you have to wait for an exact moment to add the spice so that they will release their essential oils into the water. He has a doctorate in chemistry and applies it to his tea! October 16, 2018 at 9:27am Reply

        • Andy: How incredible! Not to mention that this makes perfect sense–the aromatic compounds are somewhat delicate, but heat also helps to release them from the spice and contribute the best flavor. It’s a delicate balance. October 17, 2018 at 8:32am Reply

    • Alexa: Sandra, so glad to hear from a fellow Ondaatje lover! My favorite of his books is The Cat’s Table; I couldn’t put in down. I’m on the library’s waiting list for Warlight. In the meantime, I’m enjoying Hot Milk by Deborah Levy (Booker Prize finalist). Any other authors that you particularly enjoy, as we seem to have the same taste? October 22, 2018 at 10:52am Reply

      • Sandra: Hello! Hello! I am putting hot milk on my list

        Right now I re-reading the English Patient and also the Mountains Echoed by Khaled Hosseini. Have read any of his books?

        Victoria reviewed this book that I also really enjoyed! https://boisdejasmin.com/2017/08/yukio-mishimas-spring-snow-perfume-in-the-library.html October 22, 2018 at 12:24pm Reply

        • Alexa: I haven’t read anything by Hosseini, but have been meaning to. So thanks for the reminder!

          I read The English Patient and really enjoyed it. I hope you’re having a good re-read. October 23, 2018 at 6:15pm Reply

  • Austenfan: Autumn so far has actually been like summer in the Netherlands, but a nice summer. Only the chilly shortish evenings and crisp mornings remind me that it is October.
    Some interesting choices, especially curious about the Artisan and the Boucheron, and the Prada sounds rather nice as well. October 12, 2018 at 1:42pm Reply

    • Victoria: This is one of my favorite Infusions, besides the iris one.

      I do like the smell of fallen leaves, which reminds me that it’s fall. October 15, 2018 at 9:24am Reply

  • John: This is a great list! I’m struggling a little myself because I have a few contrary impulses & needs. If anyone has any input, advice is welcome!
    I’m a middle-aged man who loves classics (Caron Pour un Homme, Habit Rouge and Eau Sauvage are all regulars for me). I have been looking for a more autumnal fragrance I can wear to work that has good longevity (I work longish hours, and am pretty physically active for parts of the time). I’ve lately been craving notes like tobacco, sandalwood and patchouli (the latter is kind of a first), notably since trying Zino, which became rather addictive but seemed a bit cheap/synthetic in its present form. Speaking of tea fragrances, I was recently gifted a bottle of L’Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme, which has a lovely tea note (with some bitterness), but is quite soft in its projection; I’m not after a monster by any means, but I like fragrances that give a soft waft over a long period for the uplift, as mood is important to me (Habit Rouge is just about perfect in terms of the strength/longevity axis…) Any thoughts? Sorry to turn this into ‘recommend me a perfume!’ October 12, 2018 at 2:15pm Reply

    • John: To more properly share in the spirit of today’s article…
      Daily:

      – Habit Rouge
      – Caron Pour un Homme
      – Davidoff Zino
      – Guerlain L’Instant

      In reserve:

      Égoïste (formal/romantic/evening)
      Caron Yatagan (wilderness adventures & weekends)
      Eau Sauvage Parfum (midnight mass) October 12, 2018 at 3:55pm Reply

      • Victoria: Thank you very much! I’m enjoying your list. October 15, 2018 at 9:54am Reply

      • Carla: Habit Rouge is perhaps my ultimate favorite perfume for men. Not a fougère not a citrus and not a leather. Just…Habit Rouge October 15, 2018 at 2:16pm Reply

        • John: I agree! I’m wearing it today (2nd bottle over 18 months) and it still surprises me. October 15, 2018 at 4:14pm Reply

    • Victoria: I have a soft spot for Diptyque Tam Dao and 10 Corso Como, which are very similar. 10 Corso Como might have a better projection, though. Have you tried them? October 15, 2018 at 9:52am Reply

      • John: I have not! Thank you very much for those suggestions… The closest I’ve come is Chergui, which I hear is somewhat like Tam Dao… I’ve just ordered a sample of Atelier’s Tobacco Nuit, which sounds very interesting (it has cumin, a weird influence I loved in Declaration), but once I’ve lived with that for awhile I will definitely seek out those others… I find I really can only experiment with one thing at a time, let it become a kind of commitment, or I just don’t form a reliable impression. October 15, 2018 at 9:39pm Reply

        • John: Just bumping my own old comments to say that though I only have a small decant of it, I think the cold weather scent for me this winter may well be Equipage. It is much darker than I expected, recalling other vintage autumnal fragrances I have enjoyed (the bitterness of Yatagan or the warm mustiness of Zino), but more polished and refined, with a linear yet complex sillage that seems to conjure a ghost of lily-of-the-valley. I’m still trying to gauge its projection and longevity, but it seems full- bottle-worthy to me! December 7, 2018 at 5:32pm Reply

    • Tamsin: I’m thinking Ormonde Man with cardomom & oudh & sandalwood. Have you tried it? It’s quite different – they also have one with Tobacco leaf called Montabacco, which is very masculine (although they call it gender free). October 16, 2018 at 3:28am Reply

  • kat: I normally skip perfume in summer. I long for autumn since it’s my favorite season and celebrated its arrival with Bottega Veneta’s Eau de Velours – there’s a plum note that makes it a leather scent you can wear while the last roses are still in bloom. October 12, 2018 at 3:35pm Reply

    • Victoria: Oh, I love that perfume! October 15, 2018 at 9:53am Reply

  • AndreaR: It’s “early fall” in the Pacific Northwest and the fragrances I’m enjoying right now are:
    Frassai, Blondine
    Hermes, Cuir d’Ange
    Neela Vermeire Creations, Mohur
    Parfum d’Empire, Le Cri de la Lumiere
    I appreciate that Frassai, Hermes and Neela Vermiere offer travel or sample sizes that allow us to try and enjoy their fragrances without, in some cases, a hefty cash outlay. October 12, 2018 at 6:33pm Reply

    • Victoria: Another lovely list! 🙂 October 15, 2018 at 9:54am Reply

  • Alicia: Autumn is my favorite season. I am not sure that it has started here, save for the frequent rains. Still I have already brought to the fore some of my autumn favorites: Chanel #19,Cuir de Russie, 24 Faubourg, a rediscovered bottle of Venezia, La fille de Berlin, Carnal Flower, Feminité du Bois, Scherrer #1, Bandit. Many of those bottles are in their last gasps. Very likely
    their place will be taken by some in your list, a treasure of inspiration. October 12, 2018 at 11:26pm Reply

    • Victoria: Thank you for sharing your list. So many of my favorites on it too. October 15, 2018 at 9:55am Reply

  • Potimarron: I’ve been enjoying Lady Rose Lion (Monkey Unicorn) now the weather’s starting to turn. There’s something about the leather in it that feels like it works with wool jumpers (sweaters). Am I imagining the leather/lanolin connection or has anyone else encountered this?

    I’d love to find a fragrance that smells like the forest floor (when the leaves have fallen but before they rot- it’s slightly caramelly, particularly if there’s a katsoura tree nearby). Any ideas? October 14, 2018 at 4:40am Reply

    • Victoria: I’m thinking of Ormonde Jayne Man. October 15, 2018 at 9:56am Reply

  • Figuier: Autumn is by far my favourite season! I was re testing Mitsouko edt and BV Eau Velours in our local dept store a few weeks ago, and they both feel perfect for this time of year; but I’m not planning to buy perfume any time soon so I’m mostly enjoying old favourites – Terracotta Voile d’Ete, paradoxically great in cool weather; Eau Duelle; and AG Mon Parfum Cheri (latter at home only – I adore the gunpowder patchouli and stewed plums but it’s quite full on.) Would love to try some of the new names on your list, esp Mont de Narcisse. October 14, 2018 at 7:47am Reply

    • Victoria: Mont de Narcisse is one of my favorite discoveries this fall. October 15, 2018 at 9:57am Reply

  • Aurora: The October newsletter is wonderful, Victoria. The section on cardamom is so useful, I bought some, whole as you advise, and will be experimenting with it. And I’m so impressed with your translation skills.

    The list is great too, inspired by your post I’ll be wearing Angel Liqueur de Parfum after my evening bath. Do you know it?
    It’s a woody rendition, quieter although it’s not saying a lot. I am especially interested in l’Artisan Parfumeur Mont de Narcisse and at last a Penhaligon’s worth trying because I’d almost given up. It is time to pull out my amber fragrances and I’m looking forward to wearing Laura Mercier Lumiere d’Ambre, the latest in my collection, deceptively light but lingers all day, and probably my favorite amber: Stendhal Ambre Sublime. Yves Rocher Voile d’Ambre is also very satisfying. October 14, 2018 at 9:12am Reply

    • Victoria: Thank you very much for your comments. I’m very glad that you’re enjoying the newsletter. It’s fun to come up with topics. Cardamom is always inspiring. October 15, 2018 at 9:58am Reply

  • Lydia: I love yout seasonal perfume lists. I’ve been interested in exploring Annick Goutal perfumes lately, so I’ll look for Duel to try.
    (Sadly, The Non-Blond hasn’t been active in a while, but maybe an autumn list post will show up soon. Crossed fingers.)

    I’ve been saving my L de Lubin bottle for this season. It’s my favorite Lubin scent and smells like the very essence of vintage New York autumn to me – all warm browns and reds and oranges and golds. It makes me think of tapestries in a wood paneled room with fall leaves outside the windows.

    This is also my favorite time of year to wear my old bottle of BPAL Samhain oil (very darkly spicy and woodsy).

    I got a bunch of perfume samples recently to try, but none of them are especially autumnal to me. I do kind of like the Puredistance Antonia – it dries down to a lovely, almost-vintage iris note on me. (Too bad the price is so absurd.) October 14, 2018 at 9:07pm Reply

    • Victoria: I also don’t understand that price, but yes, that’s a beautiful fragrance. October 15, 2018 at 9:59am Reply

    • ariane: I love your description of vintage New York autumn, and you have made me want to revisit L de Lubin now, I had a sample years ago, was in love with it and somehow never got a bottle, I hope it hasn’t been reformulated.And I love Puredistance Antonia, I agree that the price is absurd – but I adore its vintage greenness! October 20, 2018 at 6:14am Reply

      • Lydia: Thanks, Ariane.
        I think the current L de Lubin is a reformulation of the 70s original scent, but it’s supposed to be a fairly good one. (Fyi: if you’re able to order from luckyscent.com, they have a nice special offer on the large bottle right now.)

        I really like the Lubin website with its little musical videos for each perfume. Sometimes I just want to be romantic and dreamy about perfumes and forget about analyzing them for a while, (especially because I can get a little bitter about reformulations and cheaply-made-but-expensive scents). I always try new scents hoping for magic. October 22, 2018 at 12:46am Reply

        • ariane: Oh Lydia, I am with you on wanting to be dreamy and romantic rather than analysing too much!I went on that Lubin website, it is very nicely done.I am in England, so the lucky scent offer is no good to me- should you come to England for a visit, I would be happy to gift you with a large decant of Antonia, i was lucky to get a big bottle at a reasonable price, I will never get through it as much as I love it! October 22, 2018 at 10:48am Reply

          • Lydia: Thanks, Ariane. What a kind offer!
            I’m sorry Luckyscent is a no-go.

            I love Victoria’s detailed meditations on perfumes, and I’ve filled my copies of the Turin & Sanchez A-Z perfume guides with post-its and margin notes, but most of all I love the stories and characters that good perfumes seem to evoke. October 31, 2018 at 2:05am Reply

  • Cybele: Thanks for sharing! Mine are

    Hermessence Cuir d’Ange
    Loewe 001 Woman
    Antaeus
    Coco Noir
    Baiser Fou
    Cabochard
    My Burberry Black October 15, 2018 at 8:32am Reply

    • Cybele: forgot this: Seine Amoureuse October 15, 2018 at 8:57am Reply

    • Victoria: I’m going to wear Antaeus today. You’ve inspired me. October 15, 2018 at 10:00am Reply

      • Cybele: great! It is my substitute for dark orientals that don’t exist anymore…I have a mini review on Fragrantica by CybeleN. I would like to know how you are perceiving Antaeus! October 15, 2018 at 10:49am Reply

        • Victoria: I also find it dark, lush and yet radiant. In niche, for instance, this type of warm oriental is very popular, but very few versions achieve the luminous, bright quality that one finds in Antaeus. October 17, 2018 at 10:24am Reply

  • John: Thank you! I have not heard of Corso Como and will look into it! October 15, 2018 at 11:01am Reply

    • Victoria: Ormonde Jayne Man recommended above is definitely a great fragrance too. October 17, 2018 at 10:25am Reply

  • Andy: What a great list! I have been loving the sensual breath of narcissus in Hermès Eau de Narcisse Bleu this fall, and given my love of osmanthus, the L’Artisan sounds like a must-try. Eau d’Hermès has been a perfect fragrance these days, as I want to wear dusky, rich scents, but the weather is still too warm for something with too much heft. I especially love the generous toasted cumin note in that one, very your-skin-but-better, and perfect for work.

    I don’t know what has changed for me, but I’m loving Shalimar in the current EdC and vintage parfum these days. While I’m certain the EdC has been reformulated, I believe Thierry Wasser has mentioned the fact that one of the ways that Guerlain has maintained the character of some formulations has been to lower the concentration of the perfume oil in the finished product, to avoid material restriction issues. I wonder if the generally lower concentration may be partly why the cologne is starting to smell to me like it has more in common with the parfum than some of the other concentrations these days (not to mention that the EdC lasts just as long on me!). I had enjoyed, but burned out on the EdT, as the animalic notes got to me after a while. October 15, 2018 at 4:05pm Reply

    • Victoria: All of the different concentrations vary so much, don’t they? It’s like wearing a different perfume. October 17, 2018 at 10:28am Reply

  • Inma: Hello everybody,

    During the summer I was looking for a perfume to wear this autum. Some years ago I tried Duel and I loved the leather note. This summer I took that thread and I got to Bottega Veneta. I am really loving it.
    I felt strange loving Duel so much right at the begining of getting interested in perfumes, so it’s been very nice when I saw it included in your list, Victoria.
    Loving perfume, expanding my sense of smell, is being a very slow a beautiful experience for me so thank you! October 16, 2018 at 8:10am Reply

    • Victoria: Sometimes it just takes time and a certain mood, certain momentum. Enjoy it all! October 17, 2018 at 10:30am Reply

  • Mare: I enjoyed your autumn list. Great picks!! I was glad to see L’Artisan Mont de Narcisse. I recently received a sample of it, and I enjoy wearing it very much.

    Here are some I will be wearing now that the weather is cooler:
    1. TM Angel — like you, I have been reaching for it a lot recently.
    2. Guerlain AA Herba Fresca — I know this seems weird, since most consider it the perfect summer scent. I love it in the cooler weather !!
    3. Hermes Galop & Chanel Cuir de Russie — I love these leathers this time of year. October 16, 2018 at 9:33am Reply

    • Victoria: It doesn’t seem weird to me at all. In fact, the colder it gets, the more I feel like wearing bright, uplifting fragrances. Heavy orientals don’t do anything for me then. October 17, 2018 at 10:31am Reply

  • Michael: For the last few years, I tend to find myself reaching for the following fragrances:
    1) Dries van Noten by Frederic Malle – there’s something very comforting and cosy about this perfume. It stays very close to my skin and the drydown is divine. Not one of those loud perfumes that shout “I’VE ARRIVED!!!” but such a dependable, classy scent.
    2) Volutes by Diptyque – I don’t really like the smell of tobacco and cigarettes in general, but this one made a lasting impression on me, so much so that I bought a full bottle of the EDP. I love smelling it on my scarf too and have gotten many compliments whilst wearing it.
    3) Verger by Miller Harris – This obscure gem, part of the original Perfumer’s Collection (but unfortunately discontinued) reminds me of a walk in the woods in the fall. I particularly like the apple note in this fragrance. October 17, 2018 at 8:56am Reply

    • Victoria: I’m glad that you’ve reminded me of Volutes. I enjoy that fragrance very much. October 17, 2018 at 10:39am Reply

  • Elise: What a lovely column! I was personally deeply affected by recent political events, and can only just now contemplate something lovely. And nothing is more lovely than musing over perfume as weather turns cooler. We have only just moved across the country and I noticed that my perfumes are perceived very differently. And I carried them with me the entire journey and so I know that there was little temperature variation! The long story is to say that this column–and comments–were so helpful for me practically and emotionally. Thank you. October 18, 2018 at 6:21pm Reply

    • Victoria: Thank you very much, Elise. We all need a chance to take a deep breath and focus on something positive–and then to find energy and carry on. October 22, 2018 at 10:30am Reply

  • MaureenC: Lovely round up and reminder to go back to old favourites, the grain de music list immediately made me list what I’m going to try when next in London. The Non Blonde however seems to be a no show, nothing listed since July…. October 19, 2018 at 2:55am Reply

  • ariane: Love your list, and indeed a reminder to go back to old favourites.
    I am excited by three niche houses that I discovered this year, they are very inspiring and reassure me that true niche is alive and kicking:
    Bruno Fazzolari – his Au Dela Narcisse is out of this world vintagey and expressive

    Mendittorosa – Le Mat is now my favourite rose perfume, nocturnal, mysterious, coming out of the depths to shine- rose!

    Zoologist – Hummingbird was my happy summer scent, and now Moth will be my crazy, dusty, spicy-rolled-in-honey scent for autumn and winter! October 20, 2018 at 6:28am Reply

    • Victoria: Thank you for sharing such tempting descriptions. October 22, 2018 at 10:41am Reply

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