Recommend Me a Perfume : January 2020

Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors. The confections in my photo are the Persian marzipan mulberries. They’re delicious, pretty and very easy to make if you follow this recipe from Zozo Baking.

How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!

To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin

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172 Comments

  • Joseph: I’m still looking for the best smoke-birch tar-leather fragrance before the cold season ends.

    I’ve sampled:
    Patchouli 24 – The opening is too artificial liquid smoke but I do adore the smokey patchouli vanilla drydown.
    Bulgari Black – a bit impartial with this one. It’s somehow too rubbery and yet soapy.
    Mississipi Medicine – Just smells like pine. Missing the birch and smoke.
    SMN Nostalgia – They weren’t kidding that it smells like a new car – too gimmicky.
    Dasein Winter Nights – it’s a good balance of smoke and sweetness, but the mix between pine sap and spices reminds me of floor cleaner/medicine.

    I like Patchouli 24 and Bulgari Black the best so far. I also have samples of SMN Tobacco Toscano and Peau d’Espagne coming next week. January 27, 2020 at 8:29am Reply

    • Stacey: Definitely try Hiram Green Hyde and Comme des Garcons Black. Adjacent to but not exactly what you’re looking for are the very good Papillon Anubis and Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Asesce. January 27, 2020 at 9:56am Reply

      • rickyrebarco: I would definitely agree with the Hiram Green Hyde recommendation. It has all the things you are looking for IMHO.
        Also January Scent Project Burvuvu would be worth a try. It’s smoky with nice leather and other notes, including cedar. January 27, 2020 at 11:05am Reply

        • Joseph: Thank you for the recommendations. I’ve been curious about Hiram Green so this will be a good time to explore the brand. January 27, 2020 at 12:12pm Reply

          • krista: Seconding Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Asesce – this was The One for me! February 3, 2020 at 3:36am Reply

    • Fazal: Have you smelled Morabito Or Black, especially the vintage formula? January 27, 2020 at 10:28am Reply

    • Safran: Beaufort London – Vi et Armis, Coer de Nor or Terror and Magnificence. Each of these Beaufort scents might only have 2 of your desired ingredients listed, but the overall feel and the extraordinary quality might be what your are looking for. Good luck! January 27, 2020 at 10:54am Reply

    • Muriel: I would also recommend Comme des Garçons Black. Victoria made a beautiful review of that perfume. It is quite “loud”, so I don’t wear it very often, but when I do it is just for my own pleasure, just like today! January 27, 2020 at 11:58am Reply

      • Joseph: I can’t believe that I forgot about Black. I also sampled it because of the review – it is indeed one of the kind, but I felt like I need to be “quirky” that day to wear it. I’m looking for something with a bit more versatility but I’lll definitely revisit it. January 27, 2020 at 12:04pm Reply

    • Cybele: Try Rien and Rien Extreme by Etat Libre Orange January 27, 2020 at 5:15pm Reply

    • Fliss: Try Revolution by Maison Trudon. I favour it above Patchouli 24 for smokey leather. January 27, 2020 at 5:27pm Reply

    • Lydia: I wonder if you would like Masque Milano’s Russian Tea. It has smoky leather, but birchwood rather than tar. January 27, 2020 at 11:58pm Reply

    • Sebastian: I second the Hiram Green Hyde recommendation. It’s an exercise in tar-leather. Then there’s Orchid Scents Salamanca, which is impressive: It’s smells a bit like road-works going on near a petrol station in Salamanca. And what about LM Parfums Hard Leather? Animalic, yet refined (perhaps it should be called soft leather), a bit sweet, also has a nice sort of sandalwood. Somewhat overpriced, though, in my view. January 28, 2020 at 10:10am Reply

    • Austenfan: Other options are: Lonestar Memories by Tauer and Akro Smoke. January 28, 2020 at 11:27am Reply

  • Esther Cohn: I started wearing First in 1985. I stopped for a while and bought it again. Either the formula has changed or my nose has. I smelled Bulgari White Tea on someone and loved it. When I bought it, it was as if I sprayed on water. I couldn’t smell it! I like Central Park West by Bond no 9 and Lara Mercier Vanille Gourmand but just can’t find the perfect scent for me. January 27, 2020 at 9:22am Reply

    • rickyrebarco: If you like tea fragrances, Nishane’s Wu Long Cha is gorgeous and it won’t fade away. Jo Malone has other gorgeous tea scents. My favorite is the Golden Needle Tea fragrance, but it is very pricey. These are available to sample from retail stores (Jo Malone) and niche emporiums sell samples online and will probably provide them in person when you visit their stores.

      Vanilla fragrances are very different from tea scents, at least to my nose, so I’mI’m providing some of each type.

      Essential Perfumes Divine Vanille is beautiful but it’s very unisex vanilla. It has a big dose of vetiver along with the vanilla. Indult Tihota is another beautiful vanilla. For a cozy mainstream vanilla I like Kanzo Amour edp. January 27, 2020 at 11:11am Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: It is very likely that First has been reformulated and that’s why it no longer smells good to you. So buying Vintage First is an option for you. I think it’s probably quite easy to find on eBay, for example.

      My favorite tea fragrance is Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan. It’s pricey but very beautiful.

      Do you have more thoughts about what kind of thing you’re looking for? January 27, 2020 at 12:40pm Reply

    • Aurora: I second Nina about checking eBay for vintage First, where I am in the UK it is readily available, and it’s affordable, the bottle I have still smells very good, but then it’s EDT not extrait, I can’t tell if the extrait has aged well but maybe it has. If you go that route look for bottles which have their box and 100% rating sellers. January 28, 2020 at 12:32pm Reply

  • Cecilia: Good morning, my friends! I would like to ask a piece of advice. I will graduate at the end of March, and I was trying to decide which perfume should I wear in that particular moment. I will be dressed in cream silk and pale green wool, and given my love for N.5 EDP (purchased last year and surprisingly my most worn fragrance of 2019!) I was hoping to wear something similar. The problem is that N.5 is fabulous but a little bit too strong for that occasion (I will be sitting very close to my professors, and I would not want to knock them out!)
    So, I was trying to decide between N.5 l’Eau and N.5 Eau Premiere. Any thoughts? What is best? Both in terms of “sparklingness” and quality?
    Thank you!! January 27, 2020 at 9:26am Reply

    • rickyrebarco: I like No. 5 L’Eau the best for your occasion. It’s light enough not to overwhelm anyone but will last will so you can smell it all day. L’Eau is also a more modern fragrance that is crowd friendly I think. Premiere is also nice, but stronger, I think. I own both and love them. January 27, 2020 at 11:07am Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Instead of going for a flanker why not consider something new. But not too new, not too different: Paris-Deauville, or one of the other perfumes in the new Chanel collection (Paris-Venise and Paris-Biarritz plus another one).
      Paris-Deauville is a real stunner yet very light! No prof is going to faint, yet that very prof might be most intrigued!
      Best luck for your exams!! January 27, 2020 at 2:00pm Reply

      • rickyrebarco: Great idea! I love Paris-Deauville. January 27, 2020 at 10:41pm Reply

    • Notturno7: Hi Cecilia, if you must stay with No 5,
      which I understand as I have No 5 in all different versions including body cream and lotions, the pure perfume is gorgeous and it stays close to the skin as most of extraits.
      Good luck in March. 😊 January 28, 2020 at 4:41am Reply

      • Danaki: I second that. It is the only version I own but it is a low projection option. January 30, 2020 at 3:57pm Reply

    • Karen A: Will second Notturno7 with the No5 extrait! It is quiet and wears close if you apply just a drop on wrists, back of neck and decolletage. I’m a *bit* biased as it is one of my desert island choices. Plus the small (tiny) bottle won’t set you back too terribly but will last.

      Congratulations and your outfit sounds gorgeous! January 28, 2020 at 6:41am Reply

    • Aurora: Congratulations on your graduation.

      No 5 and Eau Premiere are both really elegant, l’Eau more casual I think. Like Notturno and Karen I would recommend testing No 5 extrait before deciding. January 28, 2020 at 12:35pm Reply

  • Qwendy: Dear Victoria, I can’t help but reply to your post about that lovely Iranian Candy as I am cooking this week from The Saffron Tales, which I am loving …. such perfect timing, thank you 💕 January 27, 2020 at 11:57am Reply

  • OnWingsofSaffron: I’m interested in hearing your opinions on the new Gucci scent: Mémoire d’une Odeur.
    I took a sniff today and sprayed it on my arms. Unfortunately, I still had very lively vintage Chamade on both wrists. Still, everything instantly smelled of chamomile, a scent I find most comforting even though, unfortunately, I find the taste of chamomile tea positively revolting.
    Mémoire reminded me of a scented water like lavender water or rose water. It didn’t smell perfumy. A couple of hours later, I couldn’t detect any trace of it anymore. Intriguing and (perhaps) clever. January 27, 2020 at 4:37pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello: I’ve tried it at the airport and found it green and pleasant but had the same experience that it was too short-lived. January 28, 2020 at 12:41pm Reply

  • Mary: Can anyone recommend an amber-focused fragrance that doesn’t lean strongly toward sweet or gourmand? There’s so many amber fragrances that I feel a bit lost. Ambre des Merveilles was too sweet, and Ambre Sultan made me smell like Thanksgiving stuffing. January 27, 2020 at 5:48pm Reply

    • Maggiecat: de Nicolai’s Amber Intense might be just what you need! January 27, 2020 at 7:57pm Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: An unusual more sheer amber is Oriental Lounge by The Different Company. January 27, 2020 at 8:01pm Reply

      • Nina Zolotow: Oh, and of course Tauer’s L’Air du desert marocain is a very dry amber! January 27, 2020 at 10:32pm Reply

    • Lydia: Mary,

      FYI: I just responded to your comment, but as often happens when my phone interacts with the comments function here, my comment got bounced to the bottom as a new thread, rather than a reply. January 27, 2020 at 9:42pm Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: Also, Tolu by Ormonde Jayne might be of interest. That’s the one amber I actually own and wear. It has herbs & a bit of incense to cut the heaviness of amber. January 27, 2020 at 10:35pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: „Ambre nuit“ by Maison Christian Dior. January 28, 2020 at 1:41am Reply

  • Marieta: Hi all, I am looking for the perfume that gives that clean, soapy smell, you know as if you just stepped out of the shower. Tia! January 27, 2020 at 8:58pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Marieta: The cleanest scent I have is Philosophy Pure Grace. January 28, 2020 at 12:45pm Reply

    • Notturno7: Hi Marieta, from my collection Caleche is closest I can think of for that clean, lovely, soapy feel. I love it as the summer scent. January 29, 2020 at 11:38am Reply

    • Silvermoon: Hi Marietta,
      How about White Linen? Also, the Blu Mediterraneo range of Acqua di Parma has a number with an out of the shower freshness feel (perhaps Chinotto Di Liguria or Arancia Di Capri). January 29, 2020 at 12:25pm Reply

    • Klaas: I second Aqua di Parma. The original Colonia has that crisp soapiness to it. Many people consider it a masculine fragrance, but to me it is completely unisex! January 29, 2020 at 6:31pm Reply

    • Lizzieb: Carthusia Fiori di Capri is clean and soapy to my nose in a very good way. It is one of my favorite scents. Floral but on the drier side, with some spicy carnation. Always makes me feel I should be wearing a sundress and sitting under an umbrella at a cafe overlooking a rocky beach. February 5, 2020 at 8:36am Reply

  • Lydia: Hi Mary,

    In the October 26, 2019 “Recommend me a perfume” post comments, I asked for amber perfume recommendations and received some really interesting suggestions.Perhaps you can find something there that you’ll enjoy.

    Lydia

    PS Your Ambre Sultan comment is very funny. January 27, 2020 at 9:38pm Reply

  • Cleo: Can anyone recommend me a perfume with creamy/milky notes? It’s winter and I’m craving something cozy, slightly gourmand. My favourite cheap thrill right now is Dove’s shower cream in sweet cream and peony (yum!), and I’ve been eyeing Kenzo Amour. Many thanks in advance! January 27, 2020 at 9:59pm Reply

    • Sebastian: Many fig perfumes tend to be sort of green-creamy. If you aren’t averse to coconut, you might consider “Premier Figuier Extreme” from L’Artisan Parfumeur, or even “Green Fig & Vanilla Woods” from Lucy B. Royal. Totally relaxed, sort of beachy perfumes, that one might wear in the cold season to recall a summer vacation. Not my type of scent, but I can imagine why people might like them.

      Then there is January Scent Project’s “Selperniku”, which I have talked about before. Absolutely hyper-creamy sandalwood, with some freshness, a lot of apricot (osmanthus), some chamomile and immortelle. A happy scent for a bright winter’s day. Interestingly, although it is so over the top, it still comes across as an abstract scent. Not really a gourmand, more like the idea of a gourmand. Don’t know if I’m expressing myself well. This is a love-or-hate affair. Some people get violently sick from this. I love it. January 28, 2020 at 10:37am Reply

      • Kari: “Selperniku” sounds fascinating! January 28, 2020 at 7:39pm Reply

    • Andi: Hello Cleo, I would recommend Creme de Cuir by bdk parfums. It is creamy and warm and sweet and beautiful. January 28, 2020 at 4:56pm Reply

    • Kari: Seconding Premier Figuier Extreme.
      I also wonder if you might like Etat Libre d’Orange Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes. (Bois de Jasmin has an apt description in Victoria’s review of the fragrance.) January 28, 2020 at 7:35pm Reply

    • Klaas: Hermes’ Santal Masoia ticks all the boxes on your wish list……milky, creamy, cozy and slightly gourmand. However, a cheap thrill it is not, and it whispers…… January 29, 2020 at 6:35pm Reply

    • Lydia: Cleo,
      Kenzo Amour is lovely and milky-sweet. I’ve been eying it too. January 30, 2020 at 2:13am Reply

  • Lydia: I’d love suggestions for perfumes that might match the moods of French New Wave films.

    I began watching some films I’d always heard of but never seen (Breathless/A Bout de Souffle, A Woman is a Woman/Une Femme Est Une Femme, etc.) after the death of actress Anna Karina last December.

    So far the only perfume I’ve found that seems to suit them is the new Diptyque fragrance Eau Capitale (fresh and Paris-inspired, with a slight vintage-inflected floral aura), but I’d love more options.

    (If any of you are film buffs and want to recommend specific films as well as perfumes to go with them, it would be a pleasure to read that as well.) January 27, 2020 at 10:47pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Naomi Goodsir‘s „ Nuit de Bakélit“. January 28, 2020 at 1:38am Reply

      • Lydia: PS OnWingsofSaffron, just replied, but was bumped to the bottom as a new comment. January 28, 2020 at 9:43am Reply

    • Silke: Dear Lydia, I posted my answer below-sorry, I am a ‘beginner’ on this website… January 28, 2020 at 8:10am Reply

    • Silke: Dear Lydia,
      When reading ‘nouvelle vague’, I immediately thought of Chanel N 19. It is light and elegant at once. For me, it is also an ‘intelligent’ scent. January 28, 2020 at 9:17am Reply

      • Lydia: Thanks, Silke. I haven’t smelled Chanel 19 in years, but I remember a green, sophisticated scent that would work for several films. I like your description of it as “intelligent.”

        (Don’t worry about posting errors. I’ve been reading and commenting here for years and my comments still end up in the wrong place sometimes.) January 30, 2020 at 12:36am Reply

    • Sebastian: Funny that you ask. There is a post on Fragrantica about “perfumes like movies”:
      https://www.fragrantica.com/news/Perfumes-Like-Movies-11875.html

      I’ll take the liberty and just quote the section on Nouvelle Vague:

      The first masculine colognes of 1950-60s – Vetiver Carven, Eau Sauvage Dior, Balafre Lancome, Chanel pour Monsieur – are those of new wave, nouvelle vague of French cinema (Jean Godard, Francois Truffault). The times when Jean-Paul Belmondo, Jeanne Moreau, and Brigitte Bardot were so young, and the dark notes of vetiver and patchouli were the trendy base notes. Dirty leathery chypres like Cravache Robert Piguet or Aramis will suit the black-and-white deadly stories by Claude Chabrol, and leather chypres are film-noirs. The excessive green musk of Brut Faberge or the soft musky cologne Eroica Kanebo are for young Belmondo, who follows Humphrey Bogart in Breathless. We should also not forget about their new wave followers, as there’s grey, spicy French Lover Frederic Malle, rooted in the 1960s. January 28, 2020 at 10:53am Reply

      • John: Wonderful quote! I always think of those old classics (notably Eau Sauvage or Aramis) when I think of Belmondo. Though it came later Caron’s Le Troisième Homme (with its associations with Carol Reed’s timeless film noir) also belongs in this company — virile yet sensitive. January 28, 2020 at 10:32pm Reply

      • Lydia: Thanks, Sebastian. That’s fascinating.
        I don’t have samples of any of the fragrances mentioned, but the notes listed give me a sense of the atmosphere of the time, and I can probably find a tester of Malle’s French Lover somewhere in the city to try. January 30, 2020 at 12:45am Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: That’s such an interesting question. When I was young, I was obsessed with those films. I was wearing Le de Givenchy in the sixties when I was watching them as a teenager.

      I would actually recommend chypre perfumes to go with these films because chypres were young and edgy back then (as opposed to florals) and those films were edgy and bohemian, with unconventional heroines. My first idea is Rochas Femme as I think that would suit Anna Karina. Then of course there is Mitsouko. But I also like the idea of vintage Cabochard because it was new in 1959 and very edgy, as it was a leather chypre.

      Another strategy would be some obscure niche thing that’s really unconventional or something from independent perfumer. I remember there were these renegade perfumes recently from people like Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, who makes wonderful perfumes, where they included all the banned ingredients. January 28, 2020 at 11:47am Reply

      • Lydia: Thanks, Nina. I’ve been imagining what it must have been like to see those films when they first came out. They’re so woven into decades of our film and style culture now that it’s hard to imagine the impact of how radical they were then. (I’ve taken some film theory books out from the library, but realized I’m really more interested in memories and impressions of people who saw the films at the time.)

        I think I have a sample of a recent version of Le de. Probably just a ghost of the original (at best), but still worth trying.

        It’s funny and interesting to think of chypres as being edgy and bohemian. It’s one of my favorite perfume categories, Femme in particular. It’s hard for me to imagine Nana in Vivre Sa Vie wearing Femme since she’s so improvished, but easy to picture Anna Karina wearing it in her real life.
        I would so love to smell vintage cabochard. (The current version didn’t like my skin much, sadly.)

        DSH does wonderful retro-vintage scents. Now that you mention her line, I think Pandora might be a good one for this film-perfume exploration. January 30, 2020 at 1:16am Reply

        • Nina Zolotow: Pandora is an interesting choice for sure!

          Yes, back then those films were revolutionary and in the US could only be seen art certain “art” and repertory movie theaters, not mainstream ones. We had to drive all the way to Hollywood to see them, which we did often! My two friends and I were committed to being artsy, intellectual, and unconventional. And we all only wore French perfume! February 1, 2020 at 5:52pm Reply

          • Lydia: Nina,
            I love that memory you shared. That sounds like a great film in itself – three friends obsessed with the French New Wave movies, forming their future identities, and wearing only French perfume. I’d see that film! February 2, 2020 at 6:10pm Reply

      • Robert: @ Nina Zolotow:
        Check out Rogue Perfumery on Etsy for non-IFRA-compliant perfumes that smell as perfumes once did. February 2, 2020 at 5:29am Reply

    • Aurora: Lydia, what an interesting question. In Vivre sa Vie Anna Karina might wear Bourjois Soir de Paris which was available at the drugstore back then. In Une Femme est une Femme, Miss Dior. I think Diorella, Cristalle and Chamade fit the period too. January 28, 2020 at 12:50pm Reply

      • Lydia: Thanks, Aurora. Great suggestions.

        I have a tiny, unlabeled sample of something I think is vintage 60s Soir de Paris, so I’ll use it up this week in honor of Vivre sa Vie. January 30, 2020 at 1:23am Reply

    • Silke: Some Parfums of Comme Des Garcons have a ‘clean edgyness’ which might also fit an early sixties’ spirit. January 28, 2020 at 4:37pm Reply

      • Lydia: Silke, that’s an interesting idea.

        Victoria calls Comme des Garçons “the Jean-Luc Godard of the perfume world” in her Blue Invasion CdeG post, so maybe I’ll seek out Blue Santal to try.
        Another great quote from the review: “Incense, sandalwood and citrus are to niche perfumery what ruffians, loners and chain-smoking philosophers are to French New Wave cinema.”

        Speaking of edgy perfume houses, it occurs to me that Etat Libre’s Jasmin et Cigarette might work, given all the smoking going on in these movies. I remember Miller Harris’ l’air de Rien also having an ashy-funky note that might be appropriate for a few films. January 30, 2020 at 1:46am Reply

        • Nina Zolotow: I love the idea of Jasmin et Cigarette! I was thinking about how much smoking was going on in those movies and was going to say a strong perfume was needed to stand up to all of that. January 30, 2020 at 12:47pm Reply

          • Silvermoon: I believe Habanita (Molinard) was specifically created to mask the smell of cigarettes. Of course, it goes back to the 1920s. January 30, 2020 at 4:08pm Reply

            • Lydia: Thanks, Silvermoon. I miss the original Habanita and am always looking for a vintage bottle. (The current one was too sharp and harsh on my skin, sadly.)
              If I can find a vintage sample, I’ll consider it to accompany one of the Nouvelle Vague movies. (But which one? :)) February 2, 2020 at 6:13pm Reply

        • Silke: My answer landed further below again… January 30, 2020 at 4:13pm Reply

    • ninon: This is a fab question! January 30, 2020 at 7:39pm Reply

      • Lydia: Thanks, Ninon. I love reading the responses. February 2, 2020 at 6:14pm Reply

    • Lizzieb: You might want to check out Jolie Laide on Etsy. She named her all-natural scents after New Wave films. I have a sample set and was impressed. Can’t remember which one I like best, but it does include Bande Apart, which is a Karina film. February 5, 2020 at 8:42am Reply

      • Lydia: Thanks, Lizzieb.
        I had actually discovered the brand a few weeks ago but wanted to wait until my samples set arrived before mentioning it here.

        So far I’m impressed. My favorite is Bande A Part, which has a cigarettes-and-leather aura that does remind me of the mood of the films. I think it’s a bit like a much softer version of modern Habanita (which is great because the current Habanita was too harsh-smelling on my skin).

        If you remember which was your favorite, I’d be curious to know. February 12, 2020 at 9:46pm Reply

  • Vio: I’m looking for something like ilanguara by phaedon but with better longevity. Thanks January 28, 2020 at 5:30am Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Vio: I didn’t know Ilanguara so looked it up on Fragrantica, apparently it is heavy on vanilla and benzoin so it makes me think of Prada Candy and its flankers, the original Candy which I like very much lasts well on my skin. January 28, 2020 at 12:57pm Reply

      • Viola: Thank you! I have smelled Prada candy in the past ,
        Maybe i should try again.
        Thanks January 28, 2020 at 1:19pm Reply

  • Silke: Dear Lydia,
    when I read ‘Nouvelle Vague’, I instantly thought of Chanel N 19 EdT. It is fresh and elegant at once. In my mind it is also an ‘intelligent’ scent. January 28, 2020 at 8:06am Reply

  • Lydia: Thanks for the suggestion!
    For some reason Nuit de Bakélit didn’t agree with me the first time I tried it, but I know it’s widely considered a great modern, and this could be a good time to try it again.
    I’ve been realizing lately that perfumes smell quite different to me in warm vs cold seasons, so that could be a factor too. January 28, 2020 at 9:41am Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: NdB is by no means an easy scent! There is something jarring about it but it is innovative, modern and creative. January 28, 2020 at 10:42am Reply

      • Lydia: Very true, OnWingsofSaffron. I remember it got a lot of attention in the perfume blogs when it first came out. I’m willing to give it another (cautious) try sometime. January 30, 2020 at 1:50am Reply

    • Sebastian: For me, the edgy optimism of Nuit de Bakélit comes out best when I spray at least three or four times, no less. Which will fill the room with the smell of plastic dishes. This opening feels exciting and uplifting to me, but I still prefer to spray near an open window, or out-of-doors, because I tend to find the lingering residue of that scent unpleasant when I return home hours later. January 28, 2020 at 10:46am Reply

      • Lydia: Sebastian,
        I had the same reaction. The drydown on objects (as opposed to my skin) was MUCH too much for me.
        If I try it again, I’ll be waiting to smell the plastic dishes! (Very funny idea.) January 30, 2020 at 1:54am Reply

    • Ally G: I suggest you try Anatole Lebreton’s stunning L’Eau Scandaleuse, which was released several years prior to Nuit de Bakélite and is so similar to it that I strongly suspect the latter has been ‘inspired’ by it (aka copied). L’Eau Scandaleuse is so much better, and yet so few people know about it, which is a real shame. January 29, 2020 at 5:39am Reply

      • Sebastian: Sounds interesting. I have put L’Eau Scandaleuse on my list of things to try. January 29, 2020 at 9:19am Reply

      • Lydia: Thanks, Ally G. I’ve never heard of that perfumer or scent, but I will be on the lookout now. January 30, 2020 at 1:56am Reply

  • Sebastian: In the recent Niche Perfume Giveaway on this blog, Ally G talked about Mona di Orio’s Amyitis and how revelatory that was to her, because she was just “unable to understand how a perfume could tell a story, let alone such a nuanced one, a poem of an ancient kingdom that is no more.”

    I found Ally’s statement moving, and I’m also a bit envious, because I usually don’t get this from a perfume. So my question to you is:

    What are your favorite story-telling perfumes, and why? January 28, 2020 at 11:00am Reply

    • Ally G: Thanks for the vote of confidence! I do tend to ramble when faced with something impossibly beautiful) Anyway, I find there aren’t very many storytelling perfumes to begin with. Guerlain’s L’Heure Bleue tells a story so beautiful that sometimes it brings tears to my eyes – it really is Paris at dusk, bridges over the Seine drowning in soft twilight. Serge Lutens’ Iris Silver Mist is a story of Père Lachaise’s blue-gray stone angels on a quiet sunless day, solemnly gazing into eternity. Pierre Bourdon’s gorgeous La fin d’un été is teeming with stories of basking in late summer’s afternoon sun, of ripe fruit with just a tinge of decay, an inevitable reminder that summer is drawing to a close. I wore it in the South of France, and it matched the atmosphere perfectly. (I don’t know if you’ll be able to smell this one though – it is my understanding the line has sadly been discontinued.) More often than not, I find that the storytelling aspect of a perfume comes from personal associations – for example, Diptyque’s Benjoin Bohème to me smells exactly like the old closet in a Parisian flat where I used to stay, which means that to me, it smells of Paris! January 29, 2020 at 6:09am Reply

      • Sebastian: What a beautiful image: “blue-gray stone angels on a sunless day, solemnly gazing into eternity”. Rhythmically, it’s a very good line, too. And listen to the internal assonance on “a/ay”. Thank you for a piece of memorable perfume-writing. It sounds a bit like F. Scott Fitzgerald to me. I am also reminded of the picture Victoria posted in her recent “Postcard from Bulgaria”. The passage fits the mood of that picture very well. (Despite there being no angels in that picture, only cows.) January 29, 2020 at 9:33am Reply

        • Ally G: Thank you, this is far too kind. Although I must say Tender is the Night is one of my absolute favourites (the book, not the perfume). January 29, 2020 at 10:23am Reply

    • Lydia: Sebastian, I love that question.

      For me, L de Lubin is 1970s Autumn in Central Park when I was a child, ice skating at Wollman rink, the sharp blue cold twilight falling in October early evenings, roasted chestnuts carts, the Mini Mundus dollhouse miniatures store, warm orange and brown cardigan sweaters, the elementary school I attended in a pre-1900 building with its high ceilings and thick wood banisters, wide stone steps, and smell of warm wax, and all the antiques stores and second hand books stores that used to fill my neighborhood – in short, it’s powerful sense memories of a NYC that no longer exists, but which I can still summon up sometimes. It doesn’t smell like these things, but it embodies them for me somehow.

      I’m going to keep thinking about the question. I know there are other perfumes that strongly suggest stories/memories/specific characters to me. February 2, 2020 at 6:41pm Reply

      • Sebastian: How wonderful to know a smell like that! Sarah McCartney (4160 Tuesday) has made a perfume called “The Lion Cupboard” which recalls a Victorian cupboard in her childhood home. She originally made it for her sister. That’s lovely, too. Scent memory is a powerful and personal thing, although the scents themselves are so elusive, something that fascinates me endlessly. In a tantalizing way. I’d be happy to hear from you, if you could share any more of what comes to your mind. February 3, 2020 at 4:00am Reply

        • Tami: Sebastian, your comment reminds me of a verse in the twenty one pilots song “Stressed Out” (quoted below). Smell and scent are so deeply ingrained, yet almost impossible to recapture except as they pass us in fleeting and unexpected moments.

          My strongest scent memory from childhood is eucalyptus oil stuck to my shoes (every school and park in my area had eucalyptus surrounding it… and if you’ve ever walked through eucalyptus leaves you know how that scent stays!). From adulthood it’s an ex-boyfriend’s scent. I never knew what exactly it was, but it would occasionally haunt me like a ghost after we broke up. Not on my clothes, but like a phantom coming upon me specifically after I’d forgotten him for a while.

          “Sometimes a certain smell will take me back to when I was young
          How come I’m never able to identify where it’s coming from
          I’d make a candle out of it if I ever found it
          Try to sell it, never sell out of it, I’d probably only sell one
          It’d be to my brother, ’cause we have the same nose
          Same clothes homegrown a stone’s throw from a creek we used to roam
          But it would remind us of when nothing really mattered
          Out of student loans and tree-house homes we all would take the latter…” February 3, 2020 at 3:36pm Reply

        • Lydia: Hi Sebastian.
          What a great name for a perfume. I’ve been wanting to try that line, so maybe I will make a point of looking for that one first.

          I love hearing scent memory stories too. Sometimes someone else’s fragrance associations are so evocative that they change my appreciation of the scent! February 12, 2020 at 9:59pm Reply

          • Sebastian: Hi Lydia, I can’t help you with “The Lion Cupboard”, but I have two full 15 ml travel sprays of other perfumes from this line: “Bodhi Language” and “Take me to the river”, both of which I know I am not going to wear.
            If you like, mail me and I will send them to you. Just ask Victoria for my email address, citing this comment. Should you not enjoy them, perhaps you can find someone else to pass them down to. February 14, 2020 at 3:50pm Reply

            • Lydia: Hi Sebastian,

              Thank you! That’s a really kind and generous offer. I’m in the US though, and I think you’re in Europe (?) so it might be too expensive and troublesome for you to send. February 18, 2020 at 11:08pm Reply

              • Sebastian: Not as generous as it seemed, because I just rechecked, and it’s only 9 ml each, not 15. And yes, I’m in Germany, but if I send this without insurance or tracking, it’s quite acceptable. And without insurance, I can set the value arbitrarily low (below $5) so you wouldn’t have to pay customs dues. Just let me know. February 19, 2020 at 1:55am Reply

                • Lydia: Hi Sebastian,
                  It would be generous even if it was only 1 ml, since I’m a stranger.

                  I’ll send my contact information to Victoria.
                  Thank you! February 20, 2020 at 11:15pm Reply

                  • Victoria: Sure, but I have to receive a permission from Sebastian to use his email before I can do it. February 21, 2020 at 2:30am Reply

                    • Sebastian: Victoria, please use my email address to forward me Lydia’s data. Thank you for your help! February 22, 2020 at 3:14pm

          • Sebastian: Here’s something for everyone with an interest in perfume-making, and in investigating 4160 Tuesdays in particular:

            A full-length feature by Dan and Jo, those two wonderful gentlemen of Wafts from the Loft, with Sarah McCartney: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOIjVZO8azQ

            Very informative. And I like Sarah McCartney: she seems a steely lady, who brooks no nonsense, and has a nice sense of humour. February 22, 2020 at 3:22pm Reply

  • Aurora: Hello: I’ve tried it at the airport and thought it smelled green and pleasant but I’ve had the same experience, it disappeared after two hours and I like my perfumes to perform longer than that. January 28, 2020 at 12:38pm Reply

  • Aurora: This was for Wingsofsaffron, sorry, will repost. January 28, 2020 at 12:40pm Reply

  • Aurora: It was wonderful to get so many answers in the December thread about your choices of perfume for Xmas Eve when I was looking for an alternative to No 5 EDT. In the end I went with its Guerlain twin Liu which I always forget about. January 28, 2020 at 1:29pm Reply

  • Kari: I didn’t receive suggestions on a prior thread so I’m trying again.

    I’m craving seasonal comfort food and dessert, I guess. What are some fragrances (that are not discontinued, because for me that way lies madness!) that have notes similar to one of these:

    • Pecan pie (I’m imagining it toasty, hot, boozy)
    • Warm egg nog with some nutmeg
    • Very jammy apricot

    (I’m not necessarily looking for something with all of those notes together, mind!)

    I’m after stuff that is more in the realm of Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau, Fendi Theorema, ELDO Like This, Jo Malone Nutmeg & Ginger, Sarah Troublant etc. rather than a big tooth-aching candy gourmand (I.e. not searching for stuff in the vein of Angel or Lolita Lempicka.)

    I like quite a lot of savory and spice, and some dirty and salty, with my sweet scents. I tend to like saffron and cardamom a lot, or patchouli or cumin when it’s well-blended. I like incense when it’s not super arid/smoky. January 28, 2020 at 7:31pm Reply

    • Ina: Hello Kari,

      I can’t think of anything that fits the notes you’ve listed, but looking at the perfumes you’ve listed may I suggest Kenzo L’elephant and Hermes Ambre Narguile? L’elephant reminds me of chai tea, with strong notes of cardamom and vanilla. Ambre Narguile has been compared to apple pie (cinnamon and honey). They’re not too sweet, with more emphasis on the spices. January 28, 2020 at 9:21pm Reply

      • Kari: You’re right up my alley as L’Elephant is already a favorite too. Thank you! I have not tried Ambre Narguile and will make sure to check it out. January 28, 2020 at 9:56pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: I haven’t tried this one myself, but what about Winter Dove from Solstice Scents? Some commenters on Fragrantica mentioned eggnog, though the official notes include nutmeg and cream. January 28, 2020 at 9:50pm Reply

      • Kari: Have not heard of this yet but I’ve been eager to explore Solstice Scents. Thank you! January 28, 2020 at 9:56pm Reply

    • Kari: That should be Safran Troublant, not Sarah. Thanks, not-o-correct. January 28, 2020 at 11:02pm Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: This is my favorite gourmand from DSH Perfumes, Cimabue, a spiced saffron perfume, very “holiday,” though maybe Channukah than Christmas. But if you browse her site you’ll see an amazing selection of well-done spiced perfumes. I also noticed a vanilla milk scent.

      https://www.dshperfumes.com/shop/cimabue/ January 29, 2020 at 1:24pm Reply

      • Kari: Oooh. That sounds divine! Thank you. January 30, 2020 at 11:16am Reply

    • Lydia: Hi, Kari.
      Have you tried L’Artisan’s Traversée du Bosphore yet? I think the sweet notes in that are nicely grounded in darker ones.
      Mon Numero 10 is another L’Artisan dark gourmond you might like to try. January 30, 2020 at 2:11am Reply

      • Kari: No, I haven’t! Will seek out samples. Thank you! January 30, 2020 at 11:17am Reply

  • spe: Please recommend a subtly sexy scent for a 75 year old elegant woman.
    Thank you. January 29, 2020 at 12:33am Reply

    • Bianca: How about Jour d’Hermes January 29, 2020 at 7:26am Reply

      • spe: Thank you – for some reason, to me this scent reads more joyful than sexy. Perhaps something a bit darker or more mysterious? January 30, 2020 at 1:52am Reply

    • Sebastian: sorry, my reply appears below as a new comment. January 29, 2020 at 9:16am Reply

    • Aurora: Maybe Samsara or Santal Majuscule, I find the idea of sandalwood subtly sexy and have read it suits mature skin, or Serge Lutens La Myrrhe for a retro aura modern interpretation. January 29, 2020 at 3:13pm Reply

      • spe: Thank you – interesting about sandalwood and mature skin. Perhaps the updated options rather than the retro might work better in this context. January 30, 2020 at 1:50am Reply

        • Nina Zolotow: Bois des Iles is my favorite sandalwood scent and it’s a tiny bit spicy as well. February 1, 2020 at 5:54pm Reply

    • Kari: I really like Zoologist Civet. It isn’t an in your face skanky civet, there is a glamourous and polished sexiness. January 30, 2020 at 11:20am Reply

      • spe: Thank you – I have yet to sample this line. Appreciate the suggestion. February 1, 2020 at 12:41pm Reply

    • Lydia: Spe,
      Have you ever tried Chanel Allure Sensuelle? It smells to me like a much lighter, subtler version of the original Coco, but it doesn’t have the girly freshness of some of the other more recent Chanels. Reviewers often refer to it as being a more mature scent – in a positive sense, a perfume for a woman rather than a girl.

      While I liked the original Coco a lot and hope to find a vintage 80s bottle someday, I really enjoy Allure Sensuelle as well. The spicy warmth of it is attractive without being heavy and operatic, so it can be worn in day or nighttime. January 30, 2020 at 1:44pm Reply

      • spe: So funny you should mention AS related to Coco, which was my signature scent when it first came out! From my recollection, there is a melon note in AS that was pretty strong on me. February 1, 2020 at 12:43pm Reply

        • Lydia: Coco was wonderful, wasn’t it?

          Too bad about the melon note. I think I remember what you’re talking about – I once tried it on one arm with Shalimar Souffle on the other arm, and I was surprised at their similarity (although the AS had a much nicer drydown on me). That may have been the note you mentioned. February 2, 2020 at 6:47pm Reply

          • spe: Lydia what do you think of Coco Noir? February 5, 2020 at 12:07am Reply

            • Lydia: Hi Spe,
              I’ve never tried Coco Noir, but would like to. February 12, 2020 at 9:50pm Reply

    • AnnieA: @spe, how about DSH Une Robe de Zibeline? Might be on the retro side? They promise sexiness, though. January 30, 2020 at 6:16pm Reply

      • spe: Thank you but trying to avoid anything that reads retro – trying for something current but still mature. February 1, 2020 at 12:45pm Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: This is such a difficult question because different people have different ideas of what sexy smells like. But what about a musk scent? Frederic Malle’s Musc Ravageur might be too unsubtle (though you should check it out), so how about Musc Nomade by Annick Goutal? It’s not my favorite genre, but if that idea appeals to you, there are all kinds of musk perfumes, including some more subtle ones.

      I’m older, too, and spicy perfumes make me feel the most sexy because they make me feel confident. But these are not subtle. Vintage L’Heure Bleue makes me feel kind of sexy because my husband loves it on me and finds it “intoxicating.” So possibly think outside the box regarding what is “sexy.” January 30, 2020 at 8:51pm Reply

      • spe: Thank you, Nina. Agree spices or incense / vanilla (unfortunately cannot find a Shalimar version that I like) feel mature and sexy as opposed to lots of musk.

        Thinking about Portrait of a Lady. February 1, 2020 at 12:49pm Reply

        • Nina Zolotow: I wouldn’t call Portrait of a Lady “subtle,” but if it makes you feel sexy and good about yourself, go for it. For me, my top rose is Guerlain Nahema. Have you tried that?

          I do not like Shalimar in any form, either, though I do love a lot of other Guerlain perfumes.

          Right now the unsubtle spicy scent that makes me feel really good is Amouage Fate Woman. I also like a dab of vintage Opium, vintage Opium pour Homme, and DSH Fou d’Opium. February 1, 2020 at 6:00pm Reply

    • Klaas: Hello Spe, I thought I’d suggest something a little bit different…..why not go for something with vetiver? Maybe not the first thing that comes to mind when thinking ‘sexy’ (amber, white florals or orientals were my first thoughts) but vetiver scents are so energetic, up-beat and have some grit to them, that I could realy see them work on a more mature, elegant woman. Do try Chanel Sycomore, Hermes Vetiver Tonka, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier La Route du Vetiver, or Guerlain Vetiver and Encre Noire (Lalique) if you want to spend a little bit less. I personaly love Etat Libre d’ Orange Fat Electrician; on my skin it comes out nice and salty, but it also has a little gourmand edge, it has a little but of fudge in there…..

      Ourside the vetiver box, have you considered Chamade? It is a gorgeous green floral, elegant, sunny, beautiful sillage and will make you feel like a goddess……nothing more sexy the self confidence 😉

      Happy sampling! January 31, 2020 at 1:39pm Reply

      • spe: Thank you, Klaas. Chamade is beautiful – I’m looking for something more sensual. I very much like vetiver. Chantecaille had a somewhat sensual vetiver a few years ago. Wonder if it’s still available. February 1, 2020 at 12:53pm Reply

        • Klaas: Oh Spe, I just noticed the typo in my previous message….a little but of vetiver! Such a freudian slip of the finger…..

          Anyway, do you know Estee Lauder Private Collection? It reminds me of Chamade, but it is even more plush and (at least to me) sensual.

          And if you’re looking for a sensual vetiver, Keiko Mecheri does this one called Vetiver Velours. It is a oriental vetiver, with caramel, benzoin and musks……very warm and very luxurious, though I think it has been reformulated since I last smelled it. I just thought I’d mention it…. February 3, 2020 at 11:43am Reply

          • spe: The Mecheri sounds lovely! Will see if I can find a sample. Thank you so much for the suggestion. February 4, 2020 at 8:03am Reply

    • spe: Thank you all who replied. I am going to begin by sampling:

      Oriental Brulant
      Allure Sensuelle
      Kalimantin
      Vetyver
      Angelique Noire
      Parfum Sacre
      After Midnight
      Portrait of a Lady
      Musc Ravageur

      There is bound to be something beautiful that suits me! Thank you so much.

      The February 1, 2020 at 1:27pm Reply

      • Lydia: Good luck, spe. I would love to hear if any of them work for you.

        (I’ll post another suggestion if one occurs to me. It’s an interesting query.) February 2, 2020 at 6:49pm Reply

        • spe: Have excluded vetyver, kalimantin, and parfum sacre.

          Adding Silk Oud FK, Tom Ford Noir pour femme and Guerlain Gourmand Coquin. February 4, 2020 at 8:08am Reply

        • spe: Also eccluded After Midnight and Angelique Noire. February 4, 2020 at 8:10am Reply

  • Bianca: I’m looking for a perfume for my Wedding day. It’s on a vinyard in Tuscany in the summer. I don’t really like too sweet or powedery fragrances, I’m more into fresh scents. Does anyting come to mind? January 29, 2020 at 7:27am Reply

    • Sebastian: My reply was misplaced, it appears as a new comment below. January 29, 2020 at 12:57pm Reply

    • Aurora: Congratulations on your coming wedding.
      Orange blossom makes me think of weddings: Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger Neroli Blanc Eau de Cologne might suit you. It’s a very well done fresh orange blossom fragrance, not to be confused With Neroli Blanc EDP (my favorite, maybe try that one too just in case its level of sweetness is acceptable) and Neroli Blanc Intense (which I find too sweet).

      Also, Patricia de Nicolai Cap Neroli and she has several Eaux worth trying, I recall Eau d’Ete, one might suit you.

      Also Eau de Guerlain, very herbal seems to me always right and it is complex, light but lasts well. January 29, 2020 at 3:04pm Reply

    • spe: By “fresh” do you like aquatic, citrus, or green or perhaps musk? That would help us narrow it down. I’m thinking Hermes garden series or Hermessence, maybe Eau de Merveilles series. February 4, 2020 at 8:20am Reply

  • Sebastian: Oh, many are your choices! Perhaps one of the classic aldehydic florals, like Lanvin “Arpege”? I find these ultra-feminine without being overtly sexy. Or a not too light white-floral without aldyhydes, if those seem too old-fashioned, like Malle “Carnal Flower”? Then there’s Chanel Coco Noir, as elegant as her older sister but smarter and more mysterious. “Mysterious” brings to mind many scents with an incense note, if it’s not too smoky. Something like “Ivoire de Balmain”. January 29, 2020 at 9:11am Reply

    • Sebastian: The above should have appeared as a reply to spe, not as a new comment. January 29, 2020 at 9:17am Reply

    • spe: Thank you for the suggestions. I agree about the incense comment.

      What about something like Mon Guerlain? January 30, 2020 at 1:46am Reply

      • Sebastian: Too girlish? Totally harmless, overly sweet? January 30, 2020 at 5:09am Reply

        • spe: Haha. I just re- sniffed and you are correct. Any thoughts about Guerlain Lui (the new one, not Liu). Also considering Parfum Sacre by Caron. Thank you, Sebastian February 1, 2020 at 12:56pm Reply

    • spe: Very much enjoy Ivoire but looking for something warmer and more sensual. Will try Coco Noir. February 4, 2020 at 8:22am Reply

  • Sebastian: Being in a vineyard in Tuscany on one’s wedding day sounds just wonderful! I wish you a very happy day!

    As for perfume, why not abstract from the occasion and go with the location, and with wine specifically?

    Among new perfumes, there is “Weinstrasse” from Chatillon Lux, which has gathered a lot of recognition end of last year. (I haven’t yet smelled it, because my bottle has been held in customs for over two weeks now. I’m quite impatient for it to arrive!) And there is “Salute” from Parfums d’Empire, which is fresh-woody and winey.

    Or if you have time, why not go perfume shopping in Florence and treat yourself to a weeding day present? There are so many beautiful perfumeries in that wonderful city, the most famous of them of course being the Farmacia Santa Maria Novella. The Perfume Society has a guide to perfume shopping in Florence that arranges some of them in a little tour. January 29, 2020 at 12:53pm Reply

    • Sebastian: Again, the above appeared in the wrong place. Of course it’s a reply to Bianca. January 29, 2020 at 12:56pm Reply

  • Sebastian: Again, the above appeared in the wrong place. Of course it’s a reply to Bianca. January 29, 2020 at 12:55pm Reply

  • Jovana: Hi everyone!

    I’ve fallen in love with Diptyque’s L’Ombre Dans L’Eau EDP. I saw that it’s also available in solid form – does anyone happen to have experience with both?

    I would appreciate any comparison – notes, sillage, tenacity, anything you’d noticed.

    Thanks in advance! January 29, 2020 at 2:07pm Reply

    • AnnieA: Hi Jovana, I have both the travel spray and the solid compact. My sense is that the solid is a little closer to the skin. The compact itself is very cute and good value, though. February 4, 2020 at 3:28pm Reply

      • Jovana: Thank you for the response Annie !

        I visited the store yesterday to check it out, I could really see it working well in the summer, due to how close to the skin it sits.
        The compact is beautiful, and satisfyingly heavy. February 4, 2020 at 4:43pm Reply

  • Sylvia: Looking for a perfume that smells like the dry down of Hermès Amber de Merrivilles. The beginning doesn’t smell good on me, but Those long lasting notes at the end are gorgeous!

    I’m not great at identifying perfume notes. Does anyone know what those notes would be and what I should look for? Could it be patchouli or benzoine?
    Thanks in advance for any help! January 29, 2020 at 3:51pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Sylvia: on Fragrantica (do you check Fragrantica, it’s a useful site) Ambre des Merveilles is compared to Van Cleef & Arpels Ambre Imperial a lot. I found Ambre des Merveilles too sweet but I like a lot and own Ambre Imperial, not as much projection as AdM but the drydown lasts on my skin. The notes AI shares with AdM (but Hermes is shady about disclosing perfume notes) I see listed are amber and vanilla. You might want to try it and if you like it and are in the US Fragrance Net has it.

      Another contender still from Fragrantica is Francis Kurkjian Grand Soir. It’s on the pricey side and I never tried it.

      Last I would like to recommend warmly two Ambers by Laura Mercier: Ambre Passion and Ambre Lumiere, AP is the stronger one and is a close match as it shares many notes with AdM (amber, labdanum, vanilla, patchouli), AL wears sheer but if my favorite light amber. They’re very well done and quite affordable.

      Hope this helps you a little bit. January 30, 2020 at 6:13am Reply

    • Aurora: Correction: it’s Lumiere d’Ambre January 30, 2020 at 6:22am Reply

  • Silke: Dear Lydia,
    What a coincidence! Obviously you are meant to try Blue Santal.
    I don’t know the other smoker’s perfumes, but they sound interesting.
    Speaking of filmish, atmospheric perfumes: There is a multi-blog post about ‘perfumes for a dame’ which refers mostly to the heroines of the old ‘film noir’ genre.

    https://nstperfume.com/2009/01/26/perfumes-for-a-dame/

    Also, on our site here, you can choose perfumes by mood – one is ‘film noir’;-) January 30, 2020 at 10:09am Reply

    • Lydia: Silke, That’s great. I’m going to enjoy reading that.

      I binge-read Raymond Chandler novels last year and made a mental note of perfume references, including how often women who were not to be trusted wore things like “cheap chypres” (I wonder what the equivalent would be in today’s perfume terms.)

      In Vera Caspary’s novel Laura, the heroine wears Tabu (vintage version).
      The tragic party girl in Caspary’s novel Evvie wears Houbigant’s Ideal perfume.
      I love vintage novel perfume references.

      I never noticed this blog had a film noir filter! February 2, 2020 at 11:27pm Reply

  • piteault: love the new Gucci:mémoire d’une odeur.like its modernity & youthfulness

    from a S Lutens & L’Heure Bleue afficionado January 30, 2020 at 10:30am Reply

  • FlordelCeibo: I would suggest you Ambre Précieux by Maître Parfumier et Gantier. The lavender note makes it very elegant and prevents that it smells too sweet. January 31, 2020 at 5:44pm Reply

  • Une novice: I used to love Givenancy’s onge et demon, but I grew out of it. At the moment I am wearing For Her by Narcisco Roderiguez which is fine but I haven’t really loved a perfume for a long time now. I also like fresh,water scents for the hot, humid Australian summer such as Cool Water. My other favourite at the moment is my boyfriend’s Jimmy Choo Man. Any ideas? February 1, 2020 at 9:07pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello: Based on your tastes maybe you would like Serge Lutens Clair de Musc, it’s very versatile, a quiet musc, Bottega Veneta (a light leather floral) or its flanker Eau de Velour (fruitier with plum) or another light leather, Hermes Kelly Caleche or even Dior Homme.
      For scents for the hot weather, are you familiar with Hermes Jardin series? Un Jardin sur le Nil (green mango and incense), en Mediterranee (fig) sur le Toit (apple and pear) or the quite strange watery Un Jardin apres la Mousson (melon and spice). Another Hermes that could be shared with your boyfriend is Voyage in Eau de Toilette (there is also a Parfum), very refreshing spices like cardamom on light wood and musk.
      Do you like tea fragrances for summer: Bvlgari Tea series (vert, bleu and blanc, black is heavier). Also, Guerlain Herba Fresca but only if you like mint too. If you like neroli/orange blossom, there is Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger Neroli Blanc Eau de Cologne or Diptyque Eau de Neroli.
      For something in the same vein as Jimmy Choo Man there is Jean Patou Heritage Colony. Creed Aventus (for men) might also be a possibility. February 2, 2020 at 6:14am Reply

    • Aurora: Sorry for the typo it’s Eau de Velours February 2, 2020 at 6:16am Reply

  • Akanksha Chauhan: I think you should try chocolate greedy by Montale if you haven’t already for its chocolaty yumminess which is not at all synthetic and the best part about it is the dried fruits and bitter orange. What an amazing delight it is. February 18, 2020 at 12:15am Reply

  • SC: This is my first time posting on this blog even though I’ve loved it for so long. I’m looking for a dark iris perfume. Is there such a thing as an iris femme fatale fragrance and/or gothic iris fragrance? I love the note of iris in perfumery but I haven’t found the one with the right vibe. Something you’d wear on a cold winter night with burgundy lipstick and a black dress with a heavy black coat over your shoulders, but also something that’s a bit contemplative. February 18, 2020 at 12:47pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello SC: Wait until the new recommend me a perfume arrives and repost your request, you will be able to get answers this way as this one has got quiet. February 23, 2020 at 12:28pm Reply

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