Recommend Me a Perfume : May 2020

Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas,  books, recipes, etc.

How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!

To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin, when I was a rose picker in Grasse.

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234 Comments

  • Sarah: Hello everybody,
    Hope you are all doing well and healthy.
    Hope that you are enjoying some kind of relaxation of the lockdown.
    I am looking for a perfume with ginger notes not too overwhelming though. Ginger & Bergamot would be best. However ginger should be the dominant note.
    Thank you for your recommendations.
    Have a nice day and a lovely week.
    Kind Regards May 25, 2020 at 9:35am Reply

    • limegreen: I tested The Different Company Bergamote (done by Jean Claude Ellena) and it had too much ginger and not enough bergamote for me! But maybe it won’t be enough ginger for you.
      Not a perfume but a lovely room fragrance: Diptyque Gingembre
      Smells like freshly minced ginger root! I love it. May 25, 2020 at 11:19am Reply

      • Cornelia Blimber: Acqua Allegoria ginger Piccante had bergamot. May 25, 2020 at 11:32am Reply

        • Karina: second that recommendation. thought of it immeadiatly! May 28, 2020 at 4:01am Reply

      • Sarah: Thank you. Will look for it. May 25, 2020 at 11:46am Reply

      • Sarah: Thank you. Will try it. May 25, 2020 at 1:33pm Reply

    • kat: Origins Ginger Essence has ginger, bergamot, lemon and lime notes. It’s what I call my good mood fragrance – in fact I might have to give it a try right now as Monday seems to have gotten the better of me. Btw Victoria wrote a lovely review here that describes it a lot better. May 25, 2020 at 11:45am Reply

      • Sarah: Thank you Kat. Will look for it. May 25, 2020 at 3:22pm Reply

      • Nina Z: The Origins Ginger Body Cream is delicious! May 26, 2020 at 3:32pm Reply

    • Tati: Uuuh, I love me some ginger. Do you know Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Ginger Piccante? It tastes like a Moscow Mule. Nice citrusy notes with the warmth and spice of ginger. May 25, 2020 at 3:25pm Reply

      • Tati: … I meant it SMELLS like Moscow Mule … oh my. May 25, 2020 at 3:26pm Reply

      • Sarah: It is a long time ago that I have had a Guerlain Cologne. Looking forward to discovering it. Thank you for the recommendation. May 25, 2020 at 3:39pm Reply

        • Ugo: Hello there everybody, I’m looking for a floral perfume with a juicy jasmine, I also love lily if the valley, rose and iris. I like Joy by Jean Patou but I’m looking for something classic but richer. I like old fashioned fragrance like Essence Rare by Houbigant o the old First by Van Cleef & Arpels May 29, 2020 at 10:31am Reply

          • Cornelia Blimber: Maybe:
            Chanel no. 22
            Dior J Ádore Absolu
            Guerlain Idylle extrait
            Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile edp
            Ysl Paris edp
            Guerlain Nahéma edp
            F. Malle Une Rose May 29, 2020 at 4:12pm Reply

            • Ugo: Thank you June 1, 2020 at 9:01am Reply

          • Aurora: There is also Gueflain Samsara for jasmine and sandalwood, Van Cleef & Arpels California Reverie for a deljcate floral with jasmine and two Serge Lutens: A la Nuit and Sarrasins. So glad you are a fan of a
            Essence Rare, I love it so much. May 31, 2020 at 3:40pm Reply

            • Ugo: I love Jasmine Grandiflorum! 😍 I love classic Guerlain like Nahema, Chamade, Jicky, Chant d’arôme, Guerlinade, après l’ondée. I know it all, almost…I like A la nuit but is a little bit too bitter especially in the drydown. I’m still looking for some really indolic Jasmine, creamy, rich maybe with a touch of light green but it’s not simple. Maybe a day I will be the pure absolute so I can do a perfume by myself but it’s really expensive 🤣 June 1, 2020 at 9:09am Reply

              • Aurora: Oh Ugo I corgot to mention Diptyque Olene which has an animalic facet and some green notes, well worth trying. June 2, 2020 at 12:32pm Reply

          • Peter: Hello Ugo. VC&A First is an elegant “Lady that Lunches”. Hermes 24 Faubourg is another Lady with a waft of orange blossom (and jasmine). Of course, there’s Annick Goutal Songes, a classic, lovely Jasmine. Victoria has detailed reviews of both florals. June 3, 2020 at 8:56pm Reply

    • Danica Radovanov: Roger Gallet Gingembre May 28, 2020 at 2:08am Reply

    • Morelle: Serge Lutens Five o’clock au Gingembre. But it also has spice notes so it’s more gingerbread than ginger. May 29, 2020 at 7:03am Reply

    • Lainey: Sarah, I just stumbled across this on the Lysh website:

      https://www.lushusa.com/fragrances/perfume/ginger/9999901650.html May 30, 2020 at 3:57am Reply

      • Lainey: I meant “Lush,” not “Lysh”!! 😁 May 30, 2020 at 3:58am Reply

    • Pocketvenus: Dirty Ginger by Heretic is ginger focused and very wearable. June 5, 2020 at 6:08pm Reply

  • Jaye: Can anyone recommend a perfume with a spice, wood or tobacco base (bonus if it also contains non-gourmand vanilla) that’s light enough for daytime wear during the warmer months? I have been wearing Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille for quite some time but I live in the southeastern United States and it’s approaching 90 degree Fahrenheit days here so the Tom Ford has become too overpowering to wear during the day. I’m admittedly a perfume novice – I’m a woman but have found that I favor scents that veer toward the unisex/masculine side as opposed to more traditionally feminine scents (I abhor floral and sugary/candy scents). I am willing to pay good money for quality perfume but, on the other side of the coin, if there is a low or moderately-priced perfume that you think would fit what I’m looking for then I am definitely open to giving it a try. May 25, 2020 at 9:53am Reply

    • Nina Z: This is an interesting challenge because I love spicy and oriental scents and there aren’t many that are lighter. However, I think Frederic Malle’s Noir Epices might work well in very hot weather. It’s dry and spicy with citrus instead of vanilla and definitely more unisex.

      The other idea I have is Hiram Green’s Voyage, which spicy oriental that is sweeter than Noir Epices but (your non-gourmand vanilla?) also a less heavy scent.

      I’ll mull this over during the day and see if I can come up with anything else. May 25, 2020 at 11:36am Reply

      • Jeye: These are lovely suggestions; the citrus in the Noir Epices intrigues me because it would be a journey off of the beaten path. Thank you so much! May 25, 2020 at 12:24pm Reply

    • Sarah: Jay: maybe you could try the only perfume of Dries van Noten. It was created by Frederic Malle
      Tabasco with some leather notes in ten background. Love it especially in winter time. May 25, 2020 at 11:50am Reply

      • Jaye: Thank you Sarah; this sounds like this may be a new fall season contender. I’m going to see if I can find a sample of this to try. May 25, 2020 at 1:22pm Reply

    • Nina Z: You might want to check out the Santa Maria Novella line. This is a high-quality line of colognes, so they are all on the lighter side. And they have many, many options! I own the Garofano, which is a spicy and citrusy cologne, very refreshing. It’s supposedly carnation but to me it’s more clove-y. They also have a tobacco scent and a vanilla one, too, though I haven’t tried them because I get kind of overwhelmed when confronted with the entire line. May 25, 2020 at 12:08pm Reply

      • Jaye: Much thanks Nina; I’m currently browsing through the different options of the Santa Maria Novella line. You’re right; there are so many! I’m trying to narrow it down to two or three and then see if I can find samples of those from there. I will report back and let you know which ones I decided to get 🙂 May 25, 2020 at 1:26pm Reply

        • Silvermoon: I also highly recommend SMN. Perhaps you could try Citta de Kyoto, Tobacco Toscano, Nostalgia or Fieno (all quite different, but at least a place to start). However, my main suggestion would be L’Air du Desert Marocain (Andy Tauer). I think it’s a fantastic perfume, and could not recommend it enough. May 25, 2020 at 3:49pm Reply

          • Jaye: Thank you for your suggestions Silvermoon. I looked up the base and head notes of the L’Air du Desert Marocain and I see that petitgrain is one of the base notes. This stood out to me because I don’t know what petitgrain smells like. To be completely honest, I am not sure I even know what petitgrain is. Hey; that’s what Google is for 🙂 I also see that Victoria has a scent dictionary on this blog; I definitely need to read through it in the near future. May 25, 2020 at 10:29pm Reply

      • Adrienne: Carnations generally have a clove smell. Certainly the first thing I think of when I bury my nose in my carnations in the garden. May 25, 2020 at 5:21pm Reply

    • Tami: You may want to investigate Dior Spice Blend. Victoria included it in her “Best of 2019” list. I have checked it out myself and quite enjoyed it. It’s spicy and peppery with cinnamon and ginger. I recall it not being overly heavy and “Christmas-y.” Some people complain it’s not spicy enough, which may make it more of the light spice you’re seeking?

      I also (still) like YSL Opium. But that may not fit your definition of “spicy” as it does mine. Also may be a little too strong for your summer. May 25, 2020 at 1:41pm Reply

      • Jaye: I like YSL’s Opium too! I agree with you though; it’s a bit too heavy for summer. Thank you for the Spice Blend recommendation; I’m about to check out Victoria’s review of it now. May 26, 2020 at 7:33pm Reply

    • John: Hi Jaye,

      The challenge to look for something lighter in the sweet tobacco axis is interesting… My son (early 20’s) loves the Tom Ford but can’t afford it regularly, but has found an inexpensive but still very pleasant alternative in l’Occitan’s Eau des Baux; a lightly spiced opening (think cardamom and cinnamon spice cake) gives way to a cypress-incense accord that enjoys a warm pipe-tobacco-like effect in the heart before settling into a cozy but not cloying vanilla musk. The nice thing about this fragrance is that it’s not hard to find and sample first hand now that shopping malls are starting to open. There are related grooming products as well that make this a very easy choice for casual daily wear.

      Another relatively inexpensive tobacco-oriented fragrance is Aramis Tobacco Reserve, a relatively recent addition to the Aramis line (which already has the venerable Havana), this is a greener take on tobacco and, by all accounts, a lighter take on Aramis. I have not tried this one personally, but have been pleased to see it get very positive reviews online, because I’m always rooting for Lauder’s masculines, which have a good history of quality blending to maintain…

      Finally, I wonder if you’ve tried Atelier Cologne’s Tobacco Nuit? I was very surprised by this one, which starts out quite sweetly (almost syrupy) for the first fifteen minutes before transitioning to what I thought was a very authentic tobacco note made more interesting by resinous labdanum and lightened a little by notes of clementine and tobacco flower. It actually reminded me f Zino in a very good way, but I know that some have reacted badly to the cumin in this so maybe take care to sample first (a bad cumin reaction in the humid summer sounds like a challenge!) May 25, 2020 at 1:57pm Reply

      • Jaye: John, what a coincidence that you mentioned that L’Occitane Des Baux is similar to Tobacco Vanille; my son is just a few years younger than yours (he’s nineteen) and has this sitting on top of his chest of drawers as we speak. It was given to him as a gift.

        That Atelier Tobacco Nuit sounds lovely; immediately after reading your post I performed a Google search for it and the descriptions that I see all point to it fitting the bill as a suitable warm-weather fragrance. It’s also moderately priced so that’s definitely a plus since you and others have recommended several fragrances that I want to try. May 25, 2020 at 10:11pm Reply

      • Carina: I am not into smoky perfumes, but I love the basenotes of Eau de Baux – I wear it as a woman.
        It is my cozy smell and light enough for summer.
        Big love! May 27, 2020 at 2:42am Reply

    • Aurora: Also, Hermes Voyage EDT is a light spicy scent, you have to like cardamom, I wear it in summer, the parfum version is heavier, muskier so best for winter. May 25, 2020 at 4:55pm Reply

      • Jaye: Thank you for the suggestion Aurora! May 31, 2020 at 4:42pm Reply

    • Peter: I agree with Nina regarding “Noir Epices”. It’s one of my most favorites. The fragrance is unique and I crave it! I also thought of Tami’s suggested “Dior Spice Blend”. I reread Victoria’s mini review (under ‘New Launches” Best of 2019) and a vanilla note is also mentioned. From the niche brands, how about Rogue “Derviche”? The Rogue line is reasonably priced. The perfume has a vintage vibe. Fragrantica lists the accords as: Balsamic, Musky, Vanilla, Tobacco, Amber, and Animalic. May 25, 2020 at 5:20pm Reply

    • Kirstyn: I really enjoy Diptyque Eau Duelle for a lighter incense and vanilla scent. It plays well with summer heat. May 26, 2020 at 6:15am Reply

      • Jaye: I appreciate the suggestion Kirstyn; I was reading reviews of this one and I think that I would like the EDP concentration better than the EDT concentration which would probably push it more toward a fall/winter scent pick. May 26, 2020 at 8:04pm Reply

      • Jamalia: Peter, since you’ve seconded Noir Epices I’m going to have to get my hands on a sample of this one. And after reading Victoria’s mini review of Dior Spice Blend (after seeing Tami’s comment) I immediately went to eBay to purchase a sample. And I appreciate the Derviche suggestion; I’ve added a sample to my eBay watchlist. May 26, 2020 at 9:18pm Reply

      • Karin: That’s the one I thought of straight away. Also Gallivant Tokio might work, it’s a very light touch incense (but maybe not really smoky / tobacco-y…) May 28, 2020 at 4:04am Reply

    • Klaas: Hello Jaye, I start to sound like a broken record, but Feminite du Bois is a stunner. I just saw OnWings’ comment below that it might have been badly reformulated, but check it out if you can find it. I think it could work wonderfully in warm weather. Despite its name it is completely unisex.

      I you check out L’Air du Desert Maroccain, you should also give Incense Extreme a go. After the initial incense blast that is a bit of a shocker, you will walk through the rest of the day with the most gorgeous dry, exotic, woody scent on your skin. And no vanilla 😉 May 27, 2020 at 11:52am Reply

      • Klaas: Oh, excuse me, It wasn’t Onwings but Sebastian who commented on FdB reformulations! So sorry! May 27, 2020 at 12:06pm Reply

        • Sebastian: Never mind. May 27, 2020 at 12:30pm Reply

        • OnWingsofSafron: No worries, Klaas, the funny thing though is that although I have 26 (!) Serge Lutens in my wardrobe, Feminité du Bois isn’t among them!
          Unfortunately, I find that all the early Serge Lutens perfumes in the original, unreformulated version—those with the Palais logo—are not to be found any more. I’m thinking of Rose de Nuit, Sarrasins, La Myrrhe, Un Lys, Cuir Mauresque. May 28, 2020 at 4:51pm Reply

          • Klaas: Wow 26! Do you have De Profundis? It is now only available in the ridiculously expensive ‘gratte-ciel’ bottle. I am so intrigued by it….

            Do you know FdB in the Shiseido-formulation? In those ‘organicly’ shaped brown bottles? It’s one of my all time favorite perfumes… May 29, 2020 at 6:19am Reply

            • OnWingsofSaffron: Dear Klaas, no unfortunately I neither know nor have De Profundis! Same for the Shiseido version of FdB you write about.
              With the exception of L‘eau froide, I only have perfumes with the Palais logo. I find the new boxy rectangular bottles ghastly, the sky scrapers silly, and the new perfumes increasingly overpriced and clicheed! I have not bought a single new Lutens, and am far more intrigued by new companies like Naomi Goodsir, Sana Jardin, or Hiram Green to bother with those expensive rehashes! May 29, 2020 at 3:16pm Reply

              • Sebastian: I’ve never heard of Sana Jardin. Looks interesting, esp. Jaipur Chant, Nubian Musk, Savage Jasmine (strange name for a women’s perfume, reminds me of Lady Vengeance by Juliette has a Gun), and Revolution de la Fleur. Online reviews are scarce. Can you say anything more about these? May 29, 2020 at 4:47pm Reply

                • OnWingsofSaffron: I was specifically referring to the, let‘s call it: company ethos. Lutens, churning out one scent after the other, is now selling 50ml for EUR 450! That is nothing but daylight robbery! I would far rather explore other brands. BTW, didn‘t we communicate about perfume stores in Cologne? There‘s a fantastic new store with tons of not so main stream perfumes in the Belgisches Viertel. Highly recommend! May 30, 2020 at 1:09am Reply

                  • OnWingsofSaffron: Duftkunsthandlung: https://www.duftkunsthandlung.de/ May 30, 2020 at 1:12am Reply

                    • Sebastian: Yes, we talked about that. Thanks for link. I haven’t been in Cologne for quite some time. But with the current situation, while having to wear a mask it’s not so much fun visiting a perfume shop. That will have to wait.

                      With regard to prices, I guess there are quite a lot of outfits riding the “niche” bandwagon and trying to just rip off people. May 30, 2020 at 2:05pm

              • Klaas: Amen to that! May 31, 2020 at 5:44pm Reply

            • Sebastian: I’ve just found a 4ml bottle of Shiseido FdB on ebay. I can’t wait for it to arrive! May 29, 2020 at 4:42pm Reply

      • Peter: Hey Klaas, You are quite the cheerleader for Feminite du Bois. Since the original Shiseido version is not available, what do you think of SL Bois et Violette? Victoria gives this version 5 stars. I’m intrigued after reading her beautiful review. June 5, 2020 at 4:18pm Reply

        • Klaas: Hahaha, yep, when Feminite du Bois gets mentioned I get my pompomps out!!

          I have never smelled Bois de Violette. But I would take Victoria’s word for it. Serge Lutens doesn’t do samples in his webshop, unfortunately. They are hard to find and hard to try, especially the Paris exclusives (the famous bell jars and gratte ciel bottles)…. June 6, 2020 at 3:52am Reply

          • Mela: Just my lurking 2 cents but Bois de Violette is one of my absolute favorite fragrances. I have so many perfumes I rarely go through whole bottles but with this one I actually Went through two and counting. I really hope this is not been reformulated. This would be a very tragic event. There is just something excitingly otherly or ‘above the head’ (Which I know makes no sense) about the fragrance. June 6, 2020 at 11:05am Reply

            • Peter: Hello Mela. I just responded to Klaas (Feminite lover) and then I saw your rave for Violette. Were your “much used” bottles the bell jar? I’m not up to decant and the splash worries me. But I might risk it as the fragrance sounds lovely! June 6, 2020 at 9:59pm Reply

              • Mela: I have the flat front bottles after the bell jars. I have one shisedo bell jar and it is a bit of a pain. I don’t know if either of mine were reformulated after the first flat front bottles came out. Have fun! June 8, 2020 at 1:20pm Reply

                • Peter: Hello Mira. I do love violet, so I’ll probably take the plunge and get the Bois de Violette, even if it’s in the bell jar. I also purchased Jean Patou 1000 after reading Victoria’s review. It’s a rich, old school violet. Are you familiar with it? June 8, 2020 at 9:49pm Reply

            • Peter: Hello Mela. I couldn’t resist. My Bois de Violette bell jar just arrived. I just did a light dab and I got the cedar, the violet, and the potpourri. More animalic later. I think I get your “above the head’. Thank you for your testament. July 4, 2020 at 5:52pm Reply

          • Peter: Howdy Klaas. I checked on Luckyscent (easy for me to receive in Hawaii) and your Feminite du Bois is available in 50ml “flat-fronted” bottle. But the intriguing Bois et Violette is only available in a 75ml bell jar, which is a splash bottle. I like an atomizer and would prefer a smaller size (and cost). So I’m on a holding pattern! June 6, 2020 at 9:52pm Reply

            • Klaas: Hey Peter, the ‘flat fronted’ bottle means that it is a Feminité du Bois in the later (reformulated) version Serge Lutens brought out under his own label. I do not know this version as I have never smelled anything but the original that came out under the Shiseido brand in the 1990’s. The bottles were dark brown, opaque and organically shaped. They are available on Ebay and other sites, but usually quite expensive.

              Sebastian commented that the latest reformulation of Feminité du Bois seems to be less impressive. I should think it is still a nice fragrance, but make sure you are buying……well…….what you think you are buying!

              You live on Hawaii…….how wonderful!! June 7, 2020 at 9:06am Reply

              • Peter: Hey Klaas. The new Feminite sounds like a pass. I’m leaning toward the Violette. Besides Victoria, another respondent (Mela) highly recommends it. I’ll let you know what I think if I do purchase the Violette.
                Aloha… June 7, 2020 at 7:44pm Reply

                • Peter: Aloha Klaas,

                  Lucky you stay (local slang) Amsterdam. My father worked for Pan American and the family got to visit your city. I was sent to Tennis Camp in the hope of making me an athlete. It didn’t work! So my only thoughts of your city are from TV. “House Hunters International” has shown some flats along the canals. I know I would like the walking aspect as I hate cars. I’ve only had a limited experience of trains, but I love them.

                  From your comments, you really seem to like your fougeres and classic masculines. I’m not fond of lavender or marine notes, so I lean towards the chypres and orientals. I can finally proudly wear the feminines!

                  As you noted, Serge Lutens is not consumer friendly. If you want to partake you have to go all in! So I did. I got the bell jar of Bois de Violette. I just did a light dose. I got the cedar, the violets, and the potpourri. It did get a bit more animalic. I think that’s a trademark of your Feminite du Bois. I also got a sample of the Tubereuse Criminalle. Loved it, but I’ve had my splurge!

                  Mahalo for your interesting perspective,
                  Pekolo (Hawaiian version) July 4, 2020 at 6:28pm Reply

    • Danica Radovanov: Tabac Vert Rogue Perfumery May 28, 2020 at 2:09am Reply

    • Morelle: Silvermoon has already suggested L’Air du Desert Marocain, which is one of my mainstays for stifling summer days. Two other scents which I love to wear on such days, and which may suit you: Timbuktu (L’Artisan Parfumeur) and Jubilation XXV / Man (Amouage). Though the latter does certainly not fall into the ‘moderately priced’ category… May 29, 2020 at 4:57pm Reply

      • Jaye: Thank you for the suggestions Morelle. Although I’m frugal in most aspects, perfume and bath/body products are two categories that I’ll happily splurge on if the item is one of quality. May 31, 2020 at 4:46pm Reply

  • Wanda Rawski: Could someone please tell me the various components that make up the Frederic Malle
    Perfume Carnal Flower?
    I find I’m in love with it, but can’t discern the fragrance. It’s so expensive indont think I’ll ever own it. May 25, 2020 at 10:41am Reply

    • Wanda Rawski: Sorry I found what I was looking for in your previous post. I’m new at this, to your blog, but I love it! May 25, 2020 at 11:16am Reply

      • Tourmaline: Hi Wanda,

        It’s a truly lovely blog, isn’t it? I agree with Klaas, who said in the 15 May 2020 post entitled Putting Scents Into Words: Smelling Exercises, that it was the best place he knew of on the web. (A bunch of readers sort of hijacked the post to give Victoria a “surprise party”, as Klaas called it, for reaching the 15th year of her blog!)

        Victoria reviewed Carnal Flower in her post of 18 Nov 2005 – Frederic Malle Carnal Flower : Perfume Review. She also praised it in her post of 28 August, 2017 – Carnal Flowers – Bois de Jasmin, and it is mentioned in many other posts, including in the comments sections.

        There is so much to Bois de Jasmin, including all the resources that Victoria lists in each post (e.g. Highlights, Bookshelf and so on), that it can take a while to learn how to make the most of it. Don’t worry; just take your time and enjoy it! You’ll find that the readers are generally very helpful, and I’m sure that before long you’ll be buzzing confidently around the site like a bee amongst flowers, collecting pollen from here and there.

        A great way to search for mentions of a topic is to type the name of the topic into the search box that is to the right of the heading, Bois de Jasmin, in each post, and then press the search button (or the “enter” key on your keyboard). Then, at the bottom of the page will appear links to any relevant posts. Usually, the most important posts will be listed first (e.g. V’s review of a fragrance you have searched). Sometimes, there will be pages worth of mentions that you can follow up!

        The great thing is that, when you click on each link, the page you are clicking on (with the list of references) doesn’t disappear; each post opens in a new window. At least, this is what happens on my little laptop…

        Perhaps you can find a small or partly-used bottle of Carnal Flower on eBay that is within your budget. Any would be better than none! But rest assured that you are not alone; how to afford costly fragrances is one of the eternal dilemmas of many, if not most, perfumistas.

        I wish you well with your searching, and I know that you will continue to enjoy Bois de Jasmin. Welcome to the fold!

        With kind regards,
        Tourmaline May 26, 2020 at 10:13am Reply

        • Wanda Rawski: Thank you so much for your kindness and great advice. This is truly an amazing resource and pleasure. I have some perfumes/colognes that I have wanted to know more about and this will be a great resource for attaining that knowledge. Thank you
          Wanda May 31, 2020 at 10:58am Reply

          • Tourmaline: You are most welcome, Wanda. May 31, 2020 at 12:13pm Reply

          • Notturno7: Hi Wanda, I agree with Tourmaline about ebay. I found some great treasures that way but I always check that seller has great reviews and that I can return the product if I’m not satisfied. Few times I bough pure perfumes that were vintage and sealed for many years so I had no idea if they were still ok but I contacted sellers and was reassured that I could return them if not ok. Even sellers who had a ‘no return policy’ told me I could return if needed, because I contacted them before purchasing. Clear communication was very important and I’m really happy with my vintage perfumes that I found. Sometime sellers who don’t sell only perfumes but clothes and other items, they price perfume items much lower then specialized perfume sellers.
            Best of luck finding Carnal Flower. I have a bottle and it is a great perfume. I think it contains tuberose essential oil and that’s why it’s so expensive. June 1, 2020 at 6:48am Reply

            • Wanda Rawski: Thank you for your advice. I had never thought of eBay! I’ll look into it. June 1, 2020 at 10:06pm Reply

  • Anne: Hello,
    I love this section as I m always looking for ideas. First I wish to thank you all for your inspiring contribution last month regarding your signature scent. I will definitely be sampling some of them.
    I have another question. I find i love Woody perfumes, and sandalwood, but not too spicy. I enjoy the softer woods and no vanilla. I am definitely in favour of unisex perfumes As I tend to sweeten them up. I do really enjoy santal blush by Tom Ford, but sometimes the cumin notes comes out too much and I tend to smell too much like a curry, same with Rose 31 from Le Labo, and Santal 33 from the same house keeps too dry bitter on me. I am not looking for a powerhouse necessary. Maybe something with amber or musk to softer the sandalwood??? Or blond woods??? Do you have anything in mind?
    Many thanks,
    Anne May 25, 2020 at 11:11am Reply

    • Robin: Samsara by Guerlain is so nice. Classic sandalwood scent. May 25, 2020 at 11:24am Reply

    • Nina Z: Bois does Iles by Chanel is a gorgeous subtle sandalwood fragrance. I don’t think of myself as a Chanel type, but unquestionably this is my favorite sandalwood. On the web site it is possible to buy smaller bottles of this so you don’t need to get one of those giant cats, by the way. May 25, 2020 at 11:24am Reply

      • Nina Z: Giant vats. May 25, 2020 at 11:25am Reply

    • Aromaology: I also recommend Chanel’s Bois des Iles – it’s stunning. May 25, 2020 at 2:50pm Reply

    • Aurora: You’re most welcome Anne, your question was a lot of fun. You might like Diptyque Tam Dao, I think it comes in EDT and EDP, try both, also, I second BdI and Samsara. May 25, 2020 at 5:09pm Reply

    • Peter: Nina always has great taste. I agree that “Bois des Iles” is the Queen of Sandalwood. I like Aurora’s suggestion of “Tam Dao”. It’s a little ‘butch’ with a strong cedar vibe. Another recommendation is Van Cleef & Arpels “Santal Blanc”. The fragrance is dreamy tropical with sandalwood and fig. May 25, 2020 at 5:42pm Reply

    • Tami: I “third” Tam Dao. This may sound funny, but it reminds me of a chest of drawers—the sensation when you are furniture shopping in an imports store (well, imports to me!), you slide open a drawer, and you get a whiff of the wood. It’s warm and welcoming, and the cedar and rose both serve to temper the sandalwood. I’m not a huge “sandalwood person,” and it makes even me say “hmm, maybe sandalwood’s not so bad after all.” May 25, 2020 at 8:44pm Reply

      • Karina: I “fourth” Tam Dao and would add DS&Durga’s Radio Bombay as a slightly softer or less as Peter said “butch” Sandalwood. It has some coconut (water, not milk) in the opening and it sounds like it doesn’t work, but it does. May 28, 2020 at 4:08am Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: Have you tried Adam Levine for Women? Discontinued but still widely available at a discount price. Many commenters on Fragrantica say it reminds them of Santal Blush. I don’t smell any cumin in Adam Levine. It has sandalwood, vanilla, some spices, saffron, marigold. Yann Vasnier created it, and he also created Santal Blush. May 28, 2020 at 9:58pm Reply

    • Pocketvenus: Mona di Orio’s Santal Nabataea is one of the best sandalwoods I’ve tried. Very aromatic and plush. June 5, 2020 at 6:12pm Reply

  • Martin: Hello 🙂 I enjoyed last months recommendations so much, I wanted to see what else you’ve got 😉

    I’m a man an love wearing Jicky. It smells like expensive BO. It smells expensive, unfriendly, sophisticated, aloof and completely melts into my skin. Which scents completely melt into your skin and change your “aura”? Are there other sophistocated BO scents or Jicky adjacent scents you can recommend? Another BO scent I love is Immortelle. It smells like spicy sweat. May 25, 2020 at 12:28pm Reply

    • John: Hi Martin,

      What a fun question! I wear Caron Pour un Homme very often and love the way its vanilla-infused musk becomes an aura over time, especially with repeated application; I’m pretty sure there’s a hint of civet i there too. I do note, however, that Jicky lovers often find CPUH too basic in its minimalism… Another Caron perfume that has a more noticeable ‘funk’ aspect is The Third Man (Le Troisième Homme) which has something that is either civet or an indolic jasmine note that adds a touch of ‘bad breath’ (in a good way), pinned in place by cloves; I love this one. Finally, have you tried Declaration? I have not worn it in a long time (I’m a bit allergic to ISO-E-Super) but the mix of orange, spices, cumin (a b.o. note for some) and orris is quite wonderful and, as I recall, really radiant. Good luck! May 25, 2020 at 2:06pm Reply

      • Martin: Hi John. CPUH is my other love and yes, I am constantly looking for its more complex cousin. Le troisieme homme unfortunately smells of old man to me, not attractive at all and Declaration is lovely but very safe.

        If a lot of men’s scents scream or whisper “I’ve got bigger balls than you” and Declaration and terre d’hermes say “I’m a gentleman, don’t you know” then Jicky and CPUH speak of discreet elegant non-conformity. May 25, 2020 at 4:16pm Reply

        • John: Ah, OK, I understand! Well, I did just spill a sample of Shalimar on my hand yesterday and was loving the animalic aspects of that… I began wondering about what it would be like to dab a few hints of the parfum under a layer of Habit Rouge… May 26, 2020 at 11:56am Reply

    • Aromaology: Cuir d’Ange by Hermes – absolutely stunning skin scent.
      Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur – a light Jicky-like scent. May 25, 2020 at 2:40pm Reply

    • J.: I believe Eau d’Hermès is a perfume that fits your description. May 25, 2020 at 3:11pm Reply

    • Aurora: What an interesting question. Miller Harris l’Air de Rien plays that role to me, subtly unwashed and because of the name and because it shocked me a little when I tried it, Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau. May 25, 2020 at 5:17pm Reply

    • Peter: Hello Martin. I don’t get the raunch in “Jicky”. But I’ve never been lucky enough to smell the vintage. My suggestion is Parfum d”Empire “Musc Tonkin”. I got a sample from luckyscent and went berserk! Had to possess a bottle. It’s very animalic with a wonderful drydown. May 25, 2020 at 7:07pm Reply

      • OnWingsofSaffron: If I may say: the raunch is only in the vintage Jicky. I treasure my extrait from the 80’ies, and believe me, it is positively animalic. It’s the civet. My small flacon of recent Jicky extrait smells of… cinnamon chewing gum!
        Sic transit gloria mundi. May 28, 2020 at 4:56pm Reply

    • Jennifer Vincent: Without a doubt you must try Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent, which is a masterpiece in my opinion, it’s a musky fougere that despite a being a bit animalic has a classic structure that is fresh and spicy all at once.
      I imagine it’s what Al Pacino smelled like in Scent of a Woman: charming, expertly tailored, with a fresh hot shave and a bit loud. Good luck! May 26, 2020 at 9:05am Reply

    • Klaas: Hey Martin, I second Mouchoir de Monsieur, though I haven’t smelled it in a long time. I wouldn’t call it a light Jicky per se, though they do have a lot in common (lavender, vanilla, bergamot, tonka bean) and I especially remember its a very sexy, animalic undertone that Guerlain so excelled at. Again, I haven’t smelled the newer versions and it might have suffered from reformulations…the original was one of the most stunning fragrances I ever smelled and I still regret not having bought that bottle 20 years ago….But that is a different story.

      Patricia de Nicolai’s Incense Oud also gives me this ‘aura’ you are discribing, and it also smells strangely – almost diconcertingly – animalic / BO-y. My partner abhors it 😉

      But the perfume the gave me the strongest ‘aura’ feel ever was (again vintage) Feminite du Bois. It is the most meditative, most quiet, most calming scent I ever encoutered and wearing it was the most incredible experience. May 27, 2020 at 11:44am Reply

    • Sebastian: That’s a good question! The experience you describe is not what I usually look for in a perfume. But there is one from which I get this “aura” feeling in the most emotionally involving way, and that’s Salome (Papillon), which I absolutely love. It’s an animalic floral chypre, very “boudoir”. The animalic notes are so well-blended they suffuse everything in the most wonderful way. It’s a dual experience: while the perfume “melts into my skin” (as you say) from the outside, I simultaneously feel as if I were glowing from within.

      It’s in no way like Jicky, though. May 27, 2020 at 12:25pm Reply

      • Martin: So many great suggestions. Thank you all. K now have quite a bit of homework to do. May 28, 2020 at 4:20am Reply

  • Deanna: Does anyone know the biennial plant Hesperis Matrinionalis? It iso flowering now with an overpowering scent, – Spicy Vanilla, with
    A powdery hint of cloves.
    I just wonder has this plant ever been used in a perfume?
    It would be so beautiful! May 25, 2020 at 1:35pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: I think that’s the plant one of whose common names is dame’s rocket or sweet rocket. I don’t know of any fragrances based on it, but it is supposed to smell like a “gillyflower”, and that name refers to several plants like carnations, dianthus, and stock. Carnation is a note in many fragrances; I love it. May 28, 2020 at 10:08pm Reply

      • Deanna: Hello Old Herbacious!
        Yes Hesperis Matrionalis is Dames Rocket, it’s a lovely plant for the border, silver foliage, and branching out like a candelabra, bursting out with flowers and scent.
        But talking of carnations, which perfumes would you recommend that don’t contain oud or musk.
        Haven’t really tried carnation based fragrances, since the days of Floris Malmaison, and that was love /hate, found it to be a bit crude, but kept going back for more! May 29, 2020 at 7:48am Reply

        • Lainey: Hi Deanna, I’m a carnation freak after a brief affair with Caron’s glorious Bellodgia EdC back in 1986 (in Montana, of all places, lmao). I’ve always enjoyed fragrance but only really got into perfume collecting a few years ago, which is when I started searching for Bellodgia. Time & again, I came up empty (it’s discontinued and long absent from the normal marketplace). Yet I was too afraid to try e-bay for it. I found L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Oeillet Sauvage (thanks to lovely Victoria’s lovely review of it here on BdJ) and it’s wonderful. Also got Etro Dianthus, which is nice with a distinct overlay of geranium on the carnation. But my long lost Bellodgia haunted me… Sometimes I’d combine Chanel’s Paris Venise and LP’S Oeillet Sauvage to make “homemade Bellodgia.” Okay, so, early this year I started researching e-bay and found what appeared to be 3 decent, honest vendors selling various formulations of Bellodgia. I couldn’t decide, so got all three: a full but gently-tried estate sale EdC from the 80’s (looks and smells exactly like what I got all those years ago in Missoula), a bottle of EdP from 2000, and a bottle of EdT from 2010. I enjoy doing side-by-side comparisons of them to see how reformulation changed the scent over 30 years. So, I had this article bookmarked from my hunt and it may give you more ideas:
          http://themuseinwoodenshoes.com/an-explosion-of-scented-petals-carnation-fragrances-part-ii-fragrance-houses-f-m-26-scents/

          A note on LP’s Oeillet Sauvage: It had been discontinued, but they apparently brought it back in ~2014 with no reformulation harm. I bought my bottle + 2 BUBs a couple years ago on Fragnet and/or Fragx for ~$40 each. It’s now close to $90/ea but still being sold and I believe it’s worth it. Nice bottle with a substantial heavy metal cap that exudes luxury and the fragrance is superbly wearable for all occasions. Note that when it’s gone from the discounter’s sites, it’s usually only found as re-sale on e-bay or etsy. Good luck, my dear! May 30, 2020 at 12:51am Reply

          • Tourmaline: Hi Lainey,

            From a fellow carnation lover…

            In March of 2012, I made a great purchase of two fragrances from a store named eurofinegifts (apparently gone now) on eBay. The first was a 240ml bottle of Bellodgia EDC, and the second was a 120ml bottle of Bal à Versailles EDC. Both were vintage, and both wonderful – especially the Bellodgia. I still have most of it left, and, while it might be a cologne, it has surprising strength and sillage. It’s a pity that they can’t make ’em like they used to, even if they wanted to….

            I should add that I’ve had great success with many scent purchases on eBay over the years. Of course, there’s a bad apple in every bunch, but if you search carefully, then, as you’ve discovered, you can find real treasures.

            With kind regards,
            Tourmaline May 30, 2020 at 10:57am Reply

            • Lainey: Thank you, Tourmaline! I love connecting with others who appreciate Bellodgia! Yes, I’m so glad I finally turned to “the bay” for my long-lost Caron. But I know someone who got a fake Jo Malone on e-bay. She reported it to e-bay admin & was able to get her money back; the seller disappeared from the site shortly after the incident. (No doubt they popped up again under another name.)

              Also, I’m hoping someone can help me on an issue with the Bellodgia EDT I got: The box was completely sealed tightly in cellophane, but there was wax sealing tape all around AND OVER the bottle cap when I opened it, which I’ve never seen on a brand-new bottle fresh out of the box. Does anyone know if sealing the bottle like this is manufacturer’s standard practice for shipping fumes to other countries beside the States? The seller advertised it as a brand new bottle. So, I’m wondering if they opened the box, sealed the bottle w/ the wax sealing tape for safe shipping, then expertly re-cellophaned the box? It was really weird & unfortunately made me wonder if it isn’t an expert fake. I inspected the bottle & the box carefully, and they seemed legit. The EDT WAS the weakest of the three, which makes sense. If anyone has advice about this, I’d love to hear it. I realize I could just contact the seller and ask, but I’d hate for them to think I was insinuating they sold me a fake. May 30, 2020 at 11:35am Reply

              • Tourmaline: How bizarre! To my knowledge, I’ve never received a bottle of perfume that has been sealed in this way. (I have some back-up bottles that are unopened, still in their cellophane-wrapped boxes.) This is despite have received numerous bottles from overseas, over many years.

                I think that if you were to contact the seller and explain about the wax sealing tape (which might be news to them) and express friendly interest in the care that had been taken to prevent spillage, they would be unlikely to take offence. If you choose to follow up, I’d be interested to hear the outcome! May 31, 2020 at 8:09am Reply

                • Lainey: Tourmaline, thank you for the feedback. I thought it was VERY odd & other perfume people have also said they’ve never heard of such a thing. I found a website called “Raiders of the Lost Scent” & was able to ascertain that the bottle is from 2002 based on the batch code on the bottom of the box. There is also some Arabic writing on the bottom of the box, I’m wondering if it wasn’t made in France to be distributed in the Middle East somewhere, and sealing the bottles like that was a stipulation of the importers? It smells wonderful and I believe it’s real, so I’m not going to worry about it anymore! Thank you for your reply! My first engagement ring was a gorgeous large green tourmaline from Brazil. You’re a jewel! 😀💍🌹 June 2, 2020 at 9:42pm Reply

                  • Tourmaline: Hi Lainey,

                    I’m glad my comment was helpful. I suspect your theory about the bottle is correct.

                    Oh, you are very kind! Tourmaline is really a great gemstone, isn’t it? I have mostly pink stones, but also a small amount of red, light green and dark green, and a ring in dark blue.

                    And thank you for the tip about the website, “Raiders of the lost Scent”; it looks very interesting and useful, and I’m going to go back there and have a browse around.

                    With kind regards,
                    Tourmaline June 3, 2020 at 4:40am Reply

              • Peter: Hello Lainey. I got a little lost on the Deanna thread, but my response to her (Oriza L Legrand “Oeillet XI”) could also apply to you. You’re the Bellodgia Lover! June 3, 2020 at 9:26pm Reply

          • Deanna: Hi Lainey,
            I have only just found your wonderfully informative reply to my query about carnation based perfumes. Thank you so much. Lots to investigate.
            Very brave of you to try 3 versions of Bellodgia on eBay! And thought it was only me that did mad things like that! I am not alone then…. May 31, 2020 at 4:03am Reply

            • Lainey: Deanna, indeed you are not alone & it’s so nice to know that there are kindred spirits out there! I just wore Bellodgia again today (coming off a Duchafour’s “I miss Violet” kick for the past few weeks). I hope you can find it or a different carnation you’ll love to live in, my dear! 💐🌹🌻🌸🌺 June 2, 2020 at 9:32pm Reply

              • Deanna: Hi Lainey,
                Will be searching for carnations, in the meantime, inspired by you, I bought a full size boxed Lutens Une Rose From eBay, 1/2 price! June 3, 2020 at 2:25pm Reply

        • Peter: Hello Deanna. I’ve never smelled Bellodgia, but I do like the scent of carnation. The vintage quest is tough. For a contemporary take you could try Oriza L Legrand “Oeillet Louis XV”. I got a sample from Luckyscent. It’s a spicy carnation, but I’m not sure how it would compare to your beloved Bellodgia. June 3, 2020 at 9:15pm Reply

          • Deanna: Hi Peter, just saw your suggestion for carnation, thank you for that, not heard of Oriza L legrand, so will investigate forthwith!
            I am in London so can’t use Lucky Scent. June 6, 2020 at 11:57am Reply

            • Peter: Hello Deanna. I live in Honolulu so Luckyscent is a godsend for me. Oriza L. Legrand is made over your “pond”, so hopefully their products are available in the UK. They also make perfumed soaps. I resampled the carnation fragrance and it’s wonderful. It’s on my numerous “want-list” of prospective perfume purchases! June 6, 2020 at 10:12pm Reply

              • Deanna: Hi Peter,
                Been unable to find Oriza L Legrand so far here, but had more luck, on EBay, with another Bois de Jasmin carnation suggestion, L’artisan Parfumeur “Oeillet Sauvage”. A blind buy of a large bottle, hope I like it! (I probably will) Do you know this one? June 7, 2020 at 7:46am Reply

                • Peter: Aloha Deanna. I’m sure that the L’Artisan Oeillet Sauvage will be a good choice. Other readers have recommended it and there don’t seem to be many carnation perfumes. I did sample L’Artisan Noir Exquis (a gourmand) which I liked and it’s on my lengthy “want-list”. Best of Luck! June 7, 2020 at 7:58pm Reply

            • Aurora: Hello Deanna: another Bellodgia lover here, I have it in a 250ml bottle of EDT purchased on eBay with success but what I wanted to say is that you can order 6 samples of Oriza L Legrand directly on their website and it includes a €30 giftcard towards the purchase of the bottle. They have 2 carnation scents Oeillet Louis XV already mentioned by Peter and Royal Oeillet which I prefer. Good luck in your search, let us know if you have a chance. Conghgratukation on Oeillet sauvage, I like it too. June 7, 2020 at 8:42am Reply

              • Aurora: Sorry for the typos it’s congratulations, I’m typing on my phone June 7, 2020 at 8:44am Reply

                • Deanna: Hello Aurora, thank you so much for that, Brilliant! As I was about to give up thinking that Oriza L Legrand was an American company in America! shows my ignorance, but I am going to have a ball choosing samples including the one you mention. Sample set very reasonable too. Will let you know the results, after I end up with 3 carnations to choose from…… June 7, 2020 at 11:50am Reply

              • Peter: Hello Aurora. Carnation Lover. How interesting that Oriza L. Legrand has two carnation scents. I was on the Luckyscent website (best for me in Hawaii) searching for soap after watching Victoria’s latest video. I noticed that they carry the Royal Oeillet bar soap and was a little confused because the Louis XV is the only carnation perfume listed. I might have to settle for your #2 favorite!
                Aloha June 7, 2020 at 8:16pm Reply

                • Aurora: Hello Peter: I think Royal Oeillet gets forgotten. It is more old school than Oeillet Louis XV and by doing a side by side comparison I realized I prefer it, especially the drydown. You could visit the Paris website for it, I think they don’t charge for shipping, maybe that incudes Hawaii. I have only a sample but like you I have a wishlist. Oriza soaps are very tempting too, soaps are on our minds because of Victoria’s great post. I’m in the UK but am half French 😀 June 8, 2020 at 10:45am Reply

                  • Peter: Hi Aurora. How lucky to be half French, especially for a perfume lover. With an unlimited budget you could check out Harrods and the London shops and then “chunnel” over to Paris to experience the chic perfume boutiques. That would be a fantastic dream!

                    With fond Aloha,
                    Peter June 8, 2020 at 9:24pm Reply

                    • Peter: Aloha Aurora,
                      I just placed a Luckyscent order and I’m going check out the Royal Oeillet soap and compare to my Louis XV sample. I haven’t tried the Oriza L Legrand Paris website yet. June 24, 2020 at 3:31pm

      • Deanna: To Old Herbacious
        I don’t think my reply was sent, but sorry for any repetition!
        Which carnation fragrances would you recommend? May 29, 2020 at 7:54am Reply

      • Sebastian: In German, Dames rocket is called “Nachtviole” (night violet) because it is most fragrant at nightfall. Its smell is unlike any kind of dianthus that I know, including carnation. A perfume with this note would really be beautiful! May 29, 2020 at 8:34am Reply

  • irem: Hello,
    I haven’t purchased a new fragrance in ages (not counting re-purchases of favorites) so I thought I ask for some advice here – both for recommendations and also about a specific fragrance I am considering to purchase.
    If we start with the latter, I have Eau de Rochas in my shopping cart and could use your help to decide. It will be basically a blind buy, since I have only tried a vintage bottle, where the citrus top was dead and the whole thing smelled like a watered down old Mitsouko. Not bad at all, but I understand that a new bottle can be very different.
    I love fragrances in the intersection of citrus, green and/or chypre — I call it citrus plus a little extra. My very favorite is Cristalle EdT, do not know the number of bottles I went though. I like the current Ô de Lancôme in the height of Summer. Nicolai New York (from ~10 years ago) I remember having too much amber for my taste. Clarins Eau Dynamisante is borderline too sweet too, but I do not mind it for freshening up when working out etc. If I want to wear a more proper perfume instead of “citrus plus a little extra” I reach out for No. 19 EdT.
    Diorella is another fragrance eternally on my shopping list. I always wonder if it is overripe? Even Cristalle EdP has a smidge too much of overripe fruit – vastly prefer the EdT. Le Parfum de Therese had too much melon too.
    I have tried many Guerlain colognes, Chanel Eau de Cologne, Tom Ford Neroli Portofino but found them to be mostly expensive 4711s — the citrus was great but the little extra, the perfumey drydown, was missing.
    Given my preferences, do you think the current Eau de Rochas is a good fit? I am expecting it to be a good citrus (no lemon pledge please) with a perfumey drydown – maybe reminiscent of a patchouli Mitsouko like my vintage bottle suggests. Please let me know if my expectation is way off.
    I am also open for other suggestions for the “citrus plus a little extra” category. May 25, 2020 at 2:10pm Reply

    • Aromaology: Have you tried the Atelier Cologne fragrances? Some beautiful, long lasting citrus scents in their range. Also, their discovery program is excellent. May 25, 2020 at 2:46pm Reply

    • Sarah: Have you had the chance to try Fleurs de Citronnier from Serge Lutens, very delicate, elegant, subtle and it lingers on the skin.
      What about Citron Noir from Hermès ? A boost of energy. Wonderful in the summer but seriously light. Does not stay. May 25, 2020 at 3:33pm Reply

    • Caroline: You may enjoy Parfum d’Empire’s Corsica Furiosa. May 25, 2020 at 5:13pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Irem, I wear Eau de Rochas every summer, both new one and an older bottle, I find the older one more mineral in the drydown, otherwise the same. Have you tried the Escales Series by Dior? My favorites are Portofino and Pondichery. May 25, 2020 at 5:35pm Reply

    • Peter: My response for Irem (Noir Epices) went into the wrong place. May 25, 2020 at 5:59pm Reply

    • John: Well, I might as well mention Eau Sauvage… I’ve had a few bottles of the recent and a mini of the vintage, and find that as the newer bottles age and open up, I definitely experience more of the dirty aspects that make this fragrance so alluring and memorable (longevity, too, contrary to some reviews I read, is very good on me). I’ve tried some other citruses (Atelier Trèfle Pur or Hermès Vert Orange Concentrée, both of which have the basil I love in Eau Sauvage), but so far the Dior product has most most compelling bit of extra ‘oomph’. Good luck! May 26, 2020 at 12:05pm Reply

    • Martin: Hello Irem. For the same reasons I ordered an echantillon of Eau de Rochas. To me it has a very unpleasant smell of sunscreen / exotic fruit. I can’t pinpoint what it is exactly. Coconut water? Green pineapple? It’s a strong no from me. May 26, 2020 at 12:40pm Reply

    • Klaas: Hey Irem, I don’t know about Eau de Rochas (I only know the vintage), but if you like Cristalle you should try Chanel’s Bel Respiro. The most airy, uplifting, elegant green perfume I know of. No fruit in there at all!

      For a beautiful citrus plus little extra you could try De Nicolai Cedrat Intense (citrus on sandalwood) or John’s excellent suggestion Eau Sauvage (lemons on greens). Hermes Eau de Neroli Doré is glorious, but I don’t know if you like neroli….

      Good luck! May 27, 2020 at 12:03pm Reply

    • Klaas: I just remembered Guerlain’s Neroli Outrenoir for a citrus +. It has a hefty price tag, but it is a very, very beautiful citrus, paired with tea and something slightly incensy. Do try on skin first as it has not much power for 200 bucks! May 27, 2020 at 12:36pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Azémour by L‘Empire de Parfum? May 29, 2020 at 3:21pm Reply

    • Maria: Hi Irem,
      I also love Chanel 19 when I need something extra, and I appreciate a lot Ô de Lancôme on canicule days. I’ve been searching for this citrus with an extra, and what I’ve found better is Eau de Guerlain. Vintage Eau de campagne is a very good option also! May 29, 2020 at 6:52pm Reply

    • Lainey: Hi Irem, I too am a lifelong Cristalle EDT fan and wear Eau de Guerlain, as well. I think of Cristalle EDT as my “stranded on a desert island for life” perfume, where I could only choose one bottle to accompany me…

      So, I just got a 100 ml bottle of Hermes Pamplemousse Rose in the mail yesterday. It’s a very bright, charming and frisky grapefruit, with a sheer, barely-present rose underlay. It cuts through this Virginia humidity like a knife and I’m guessing it would be well-nigh impossible to overspray. I do have to make a decant to freshen up with during the day, because it only lasts an hour or two. Got it for very decent price on Fragx (Fragnet? One or the other – it’s prob the same company). Hope you find something great! May 30, 2020 at 1:13am Reply

  • J.: Hello!

    Could anybody recommend a perfume that might resemble the wonderful Le Parfum de Thérèse (Edmond Roudnitska, Frederic Malle).

    If possible, perfumes that are not Dior vintages, since they are really hard to find!
    Thank you. 🙂 May 25, 2020 at 2:45pm Reply

    • Deanna: Just curious!
      Why not just wear Parfume de Therese?!
      It is unique.
      Nothing like it, but makes you gasp as much, with pleasure and disbelief, is Parfum de Nicolai, Fig Tea Intense.
      Not really like figs or tea! May 29, 2020 at 7:59am Reply

      • J.: Because it’s extremely hard to find it in countries outside Europe and the US!

        Unfortunately, given the difficulty one cannot simply wear it everyday. May 29, 2020 at 11:02pm Reply

        • Deanna: Ah! I understand now.
          Always a problem when a perfume is so expensive, never sure whether it’s better to use it every day, or save it up. But havevdonevtgstcthrn found its gone off.(Chanel Cuire de Russe) May 30, 2020 at 3:14am Reply

  • Aromaology: Have you tried the Atelier Cologne fragrances? Some beautiful, long lasting citrus scents in their range. Also, their discovery program is excellent. May 25, 2020 at 2:45pm Reply

  • Aromaology: I also recommend Chanel’s Bois des Iles – it’s stunning. May 25, 2020 at 2:52pm Reply

  • Peter: How about Frederic Malle “Noir Epices”. Nina mentioned it in an earlier post. It’s Chypre and Citrus with Spice. Victoria has a great review. May 25, 2020 at 5:57pm Reply

  • Nancy A: Without any fragrances at this time what website is recommended as reliable, authentic, hold the price gouging please to replenish. Please no eBay or Amazon. Thank you. Looking forward to your response. All the best for good health and happiness! May 26, 2020 at 12:14pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Nancy: You didn’t mention where you live, if you are in the US Fragrancenet and FragranceX are great discounters and Luckyscent for harder to find niche fragrances, for samples Surrender to chance and The Perfume Court. I am in the UK where Allbeautycom and Notino are popular and eBayuk. June 8, 2020 at 10:52am Reply

  • John: Hello everyone,

    I’ve been wanting to introduce my daughter (17) to a classic and thought she might like Shalimar… She has a strong & creative personality under a soft persona and it made me think of some of the formidable creative women (Frida Kahlo, Louise Bourgeois…) who have worn this scent. We also recently watched Baz Luhrmann’s version of The Great Gatsby and were inspired by the aura of the 20’s…

    Anyway, I thought I’d start gently, and found a sample of the cologne online. She loved it (I thought it was great too), but I now realize that it was not, as I had assumed, the Eau de Cologne, but the fairly recent ‘cologne edt’, which I think may be discontinued now. Can anyone help a hapless father navigate the many flankers and formulations of Shalimar? I’d like to find her something close to what she experienced with the sample (I know not all Shalimars work for all people) and assume that either the current EDC or EDT might be the ticket, but I’d love anyone’s input. I would rather avoid discontinued flankers or vintage recommendations, because I’m hoping to find something she can form a relationship with in the long term. Thanks! May 26, 2020 at 12:47pm Reply

    • Sebastian: How happy you and your daughter must be together! Regarding Shalimar flankers, it is impossible to keep track of them unless you are an aficionado, which I am not. It’s confusing enough that Shalimar Cologne EdT is not the same as Shalimar Eau de Cologne…

      Are you sure Shalimar Cologne EdT has been discontinued? It is currently offered on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Guerlain-Shalimar-Cologne-Spray-1-6oz/dp/B00YU4QSOE

      Otherwise, from what I vaguely remember having read – but cannot remember where – what may have been your closest replacements really have been discontinued, namely Eau de Shalimar and Eau Légère. I’d try the current EdT. That also has the best chance of staying around to form a relationship with, I suppose. All those flankers come and go in the blink of an eye.

      Good luck to you both! May 26, 2020 at 5:10pm Reply

      • John: Thanks for this input! I think you could be right about the new Cologne EDT still being around, as I see it al lot on auction as well, so that’s a relief. Once she’s hoked, she can explore the other iterations depending on weather, season, mood, etc. For now, I’m delighted that this Wasser-esque Shalimar has captured her interest. May 26, 2020 at 7:07pm Reply

    • Caroline: John, if you’re in the U.S., Shalimar may be ordered in either the EDP or EDT formulation at the Nordstrom site. Personally prefer the extrait, but that’s costlier. All 3 concentrations are readily available and should be around for the forseeable future. There will be gift sets around the holidays too. May 26, 2020 at 5:17pm Reply

      • John: Thank you Caroline. I’m based in Canada, but thankfully it is fairly easy to find in all of its iterations from Canadian suppliers…My question more concerned different Shalimars, specifically the differences between the ‘Cologne EDT’, Eau de Cologne and EDT versions. It sounds like the EDC is more old school (probably something I’d wear), whereas the newer ‘cologne edt’ is aimed at a younger audience. I was curious where the current formulation of the EDT fit into that scheme. May 26, 2020 at 7:12pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: I really like the regular Shalimar eau de cologne, which you can easily get for reasonable prices (so she can afford it herself if she wants to buy more). I used to find the EDT or EDP too much for my nose and couldn’t understand the Shalimar mystique until I tried the eau de cologne. So you might get her some of that and see what she thinks! May 28, 2020 at 10:18pm Reply

      • John: Thanks for the suggestion! I’d been considering that too (I like the look of that bottle a bit more and also suspect I could wear i myself if it wasn’t her cup of tea..) May 29, 2020 at 2:00am Reply

    • Lainey: John, what a lovely father you must be! I adore what is known as “Shalimar Cologne” and it’s gotten good reviews here and there. It doesn’t have any other modifiers like “edp” or “edt”… it’s just “Shalimar Cologne.” I have a bottle and a back-up bottle (i.e., a BUB) of this amazing creation and I’ve gifted it to friends. There have been so many flankers of Shalimar that it can get really confusing fast. Perhaps this makes me unsophisticated, but I don’t enjoy the super-edgy aspects of Shalimar Perfume (had a bottle in 2006 & gave it away). But Shalimar Cologne has all that I love (and then some) without the parts I dislike. There is what I think of as a lemon meringue accord at the top of Shalimar Cologne that is intoxicating. But be aware that Shalimar Cologne still packs a punch. Thierry Wasser lightened it up, but 3 sprays of this stuff is 1 spray too many. And it lasts all day. Here’s a link for where I’ve gotten mine: https://www.fragrancenet.com/perfume/guerlain/shalimar-cologne/edt#293202

      And here’s a set of reviews on it (don’t mind the first grouchy one): http://www.basenotes.net/ID26146231.html

      Caveat: Don’t buy perfume on amazon. Just don’t. Way too risky. Also, be aware that fragnet & fragx websites are often the last stop for many perfumes. Strike while it’s on there, because once it disappears from the so-called “discounter” sites, the only place you’ll find it is on e-bay or etsy at inflated prices. Good luck and I hope you find the perfect fragrance for your budding perfumista! May 30, 2020 at 1:57am Reply

      • Lainey: I meant “Lush,” not “Lysh”!! 😁 May 30, 2020 at 11:44am Reply

      • Sebastian: I have sometimes bought on Amazon, but only “cheapies”. No one takes the trouble to fake a fragrance to be sold for 20 bucks a big bottle. May 30, 2020 at 2:13pm Reply

        • Sebastian: Oops, forgot to include my question in the previous comment. Lainey, as it was me who posted that Amazon link above, do you see any reason to suspect that offer in particular, or was your comment more in the way of a general warning? May 30, 2020 at 3:04pm Reply

          • Lainey: Sebastian, in no way was I commenting in reaction to you posting that link & I regret any appearance of such. And I certainly agree with you that no one would go to the trouble of faking an inexpensive scent and selling it on Amazon or ebay, etc. I was researching this subject about 6 weeks ago after I got a bottle of perfume on eBay with a slight irregularity about it. In my searches, I read a couple of warnings about Amazon. Because it is just such an enormous marketplace with all kinds of independent sellers, there’s a greater chance of getting fake products. The good news is that Amazon has an excellent reparations policy. But like eBay, depending on the type of article you’re
            buying, there is higher risk of dupes. Here’s an article I found interesting:

            https://www.fragrantica.com/news/How-They-Counterfeit-Niche-Perfumes-11278.html May 30, 2020 at 7:08pm Reply

    • Lainey: (Aaaack! I’m failing Webform 101 here…)
      This is for John with 17 year old daughter & Shalimar flankers: Okay, I stand corrected: the Thierry Wasser version of Shalimar Cologne IS billed as an “Eau de Toilette.” Sorry for the confusion, John. May 30, 2020 at 11:51am Reply

      • John: Thank you, Lainey, for all that perspective! Yes, only in our current moment would we find a fragrance called a cologne that is, incidentally, an eau de toilette! Honestly, I’m a little torn… The old EDC bottles charm me (and are indeed very reasonable) and I am swayed by reports that the EDC is nearest to the spirit of Shalimar’s leathery & incense origins, but if she is smitten with the new cologne EDT, I might well pursue it as a gateway in any case. It does smell very, very good, and to my nose still has that unusual hint of an animalic twist buried in the vanilla. Shalimar is a tough one to research, flankers aside, because if all of the debate concerning vintages, but I try to enjoy what the present has to offer…My experience of both Vetiver and Habit Rouge (two fragrances I love and wear often year round) is limited to the era of Wasser and I can’t complain. May 30, 2020 at 12:09pm Reply

        • Lainey: John, thank you for your kind reply. Yep, Wasser is awesum. Hey – – $30-$40 for 87 mls of such a high-quality, well-crafted frag is worth it, imo. I know someone who wears Shallie Cologne in hot months & original Shallie in colder months & it works well for them.
          If it helps, the notes of Shalimar Cologne as listed on Basenotes:

          Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Lime, Grapefruit

          Heart Notes: Rose, Jasmine, Freesia

          Base Notes: White musk, Vanilla, Iris

          Neither of my parents cared a whit about scent. My Dad wore Old Spice when suited up & my Mom had a brief 70’s brush with Jontue, but she actually disliked & discouraged fragrance in general. How lucky your daughter is to have a parent who will explore the lovely world of fragrance with her!
          💙🌺🌼💐🌹 May 30, 2020 at 2:07pm Reply

          • John: Thanks for those (kind) thoughts & notes! I think I got onto fragrance as a means of dealing with heavier things in that were very present life at that time, and find it a tremendous relief; I always hope it has this function for my daughter as well. My parents were not heavily into fragrance either (I never knew my mother to wear anything, and my father wore Royal Copenhagen as an aftershave, which suited him, I think, and left me forever after with the impression that powdery orientals are for tough guys…which is why I think of the rose note in Habit Rouge as being somehow both lyrical and butch.)… Yes, the freesia is interesting; her first move from younger kinds of things (Pink Sugar, which I thought was quite nice, and Lush’s Rose Jam, which was a bit overwhelming) was a bargain bottle of Lacoste Pour Femme, which actually was kind of a freesia/jasmine/suede fragrance, and so maybe laid the groundwork for Shalimar. I’d probably buy her every iteration of it if more realistic material forces didn’t prevail, but sometimes it’s better to have to mete these things out. Any way, thank you again. May 30, 2020 at 4:11pm Reply

            • Lainey: John, you are so welcome. I joined the online perfume community a couple years ago as a hobby, but also as a welcome escape from living in a “community-less” place, so I can relate. I wore Bellodgia at 24, Cristalle EDT at 27, and Aramis’s “New West Skinscent for Her” (lmao) at 29. I still wear the first two but the third is long-lost…(Some would say that’s a blessing, but I just LOVED the way that stuff smelled!) The fragrances your daughter enjoys will mark phases in her life, & if she’s able to sample them again 30 years later, she’ll be catapulted back in time, like magic! I have a nice collection now that I get a lot of enjoyment from, most especially because I get to “talk” to nice people like you! 😀🇺🇸💙🇨🇦 May 30, 2020 at 7:32pm Reply

  • Deborah: Hello Everyone! I’m new to this site and so impressed by the wealth of knowledge both on the site and in the comments.

    I wonder if anyone can suggest a substitute for my favorite (cool-weather) fragrance of all time, Serge Lutens Gris clair…, which smells primarily of lavender and smoke to me, but has never lasted long on my skin. I’ve read that they’ve re-formulated it, so it seems time to find a replacement.

    If it helps, my second-favorite cool-weather scent is Maison Margiela Replica Jazz Club.

    Thanks so much for any suggestions! May 26, 2020 at 5:00pm Reply

    • Sebastian: Your taste strikes me as a bit eclectic. While Gris clair is (or used to be) a nice lavender-incense-wood combination, Replica Jazz Club seems to be by all accounts (I don’t know that perfume myself) sweet and boozy stuff verging on the overbearing.

      However, I think you might enjoy “Eau my soul” from the house of 4160 Tuesdays. This perfume is named after a Facebook group, where people could name their favorite warm notes for Sarah McCartney to include in the finished product. So it’s a bit of an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink affair, but it also really is a very comforting cool weather fragrance. Perhaps it can be seen as a combination of the two scents you have named, as it includes woody notes (esp. sandalwood), a bit of lavender, tonka bean and incense (although I don’t remember noticing smoke), plus honey and boozy notes. Based on your post, I think you might like it. May 27, 2020 at 5:17am Reply

      • Deborah: Hi Sebastian – Thanks so much for the suggestion. It looks like I can get a sample from Luckyscent, so I will definitely try it. And I think your use of “eclectic” is very kind! Not (yet) very discerning also works 😉 May 27, 2020 at 5:34pm Reply

        • Sebastian: Oh, I’m so sorry, I really didn’t mean it that way! First, as I said, I’ve never smelled Replica Jazz Club. Second, there is absolutely no obligation to like only one kind of perfume, or even only the “best” ones, or things liked by other people. On the contrary! So many factors come into the choice of perfume at any given time: there’s weather, time-of-day, occasion, mood, etc. I don’t believe of myself that I have a “discerning” style in perfume. (Except that I can list a whole lot of things that I do NOT like.)

          I’ll try to be more careful to leave out any uncalled-for adjectives in the future. With your question, it was just that these two sign posts didn’t seem to point me in the same direction. May 28, 2020 at 2:38am Reply

          • Deborah: No offense was taken – I thought it was funny! And I do really appreciate you taking the time to consider and reply to my request. The journey of discovery continues! May 28, 2020 at 6:46am Reply

    • Karina: I adore Gris Clair and would find it difficult to replace. What makes it special is the soft incense and the lavender. Lavender in the same vain could be Hermes Brin de Reglisse, although it doesn’t last long. For the more ambery / tonka-y notes maybe try Maison Margiela By the Fireplace. I’m not such and expert on the incense trail… May 28, 2020 at 7:31am Reply

      • Deborah: I really love Gris Clair and can’t believe I’ll never be able to get more (fresh bottles, anyway), but it was never long-lasting on me. I seem to soak up most perfumes like a sponge! For that reason the Brin de Reglisse probably wouldn’t work for me – many reviewers agree with your assessment that it doesn’t last long.

        I’ll check out By the Fireplace – thanks for the suggestions! May 29, 2020 at 5:17pm Reply

  • Sunny: Hi, I’m new here! I’ve been bitten by the perfume bug and started buying samples a few weeks ago.
    Ginepro de Sardegna from Acqua di Parma is what I love in a summer scent (a natural fresh, soft green scent that doesn’t have that harsh/sharp citrus note and blends with my body chemistry nicely), but when I looked on the AdP site I was surprised to see that it had been discontinued. I don’t want to search out one of the remaining bottles at an outrageous price, and I was disappointed by how many sprays I needed to get a decent sillage. Reading on here, I see that poor longevity a common complaint with AdP.
    Thank you for reading, I’m excited to start my perfume journey and hone my nose! May 27, 2020 at 4:05am Reply

    • Tourmaline: Hi Sunny,

      What an exciting time it is for you, having jumped down the perfume rabbit hole!

      A great initial resource to use when seeking a fragrance similar to another one, is Michael Edwards’ Fragrance Finder.

      http://ffonline.fragrancesoftheworld.com/Home

      Find the above website, scroll down to the bottom, and click on the box that is on the left, called “FIND MY FAVORITE” (which also says, “Tell us your favourite fragrance and we’ll recommend more”). As Michael Edwards is second to none as a perfume classifier, you can be sure that any major fragrance that resembles or is related to your chosen fragrance – and is still available – will be listed in his database.

      Type the name of your fragrance into the search line. If the fragrance is listed in the database, its name will come up in another search line beneath the first one. Click on the name, and a new page will open, listing names of related fragrances. As Mr Edwards writes at the top of this new page, “We recommend trying these fragrances as they’re the most similar in style, scent and fragrance family.”

      When I searched under Ginepro de Sardegna, the fragrance suggestions that came up were: Calvin Klein Women (both the EDT and the EDP), Aqua Allegoria Coconut Fizz by Guerlain, and Dolce Vita by Dior.

      Of course, that is just the first step. It would then be helpful to ask readers in this forum for their opinions and observations about the suggested fragrances. Bois de Jasmin readers can often provide valuable information about their experience of a fragrance, including thoughts on sillage and longevity. They might also suggest alternative fragrances for you to try, especially if you provide further information about your preferences in the course of any online discussion. Then you can seek out fragrances of interest and sample them.

      Good luck with your perfume search!

      With kind regards,
      Tourmaline May 28, 2020 at 4:25am Reply

      • Peter: Thank you Tourmaline for giving us ‘Perfume Junkies’ another resource (along with instruction.) The website looks fun! May 28, 2020 at 5:19pm Reply

        • Tourmaline: You’re welcome, Peter. Yes, it’s a great website. May 28, 2020 at 10:36pm Reply

      • Lainey: Tourmaline! Thank you for the great tip of Michael Edwards’ helpful website! Love it!!! June 2, 2020 at 9:19pm Reply

        • Tourmaline: You’re welcome, Lainey! I’m sure Victoria didn’t mind me putting in the link, because she, too, appreciates Michael Edwards’ work and uses his classification system. June 3, 2020 at 4:28am Reply

  • Sebastian: Does anyone know whether Feminité du Bois has been reformulated? I retried it the other day, in search of a present, and found it watery, insipid and unremarkable. This stuff used to be revolutionary. Is it my nose, my memory, or has FdB really changed? May 27, 2020 at 5:25am Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: Yes, it has changed. So many modern perfumes have been reformulated due to new IFRA restrictions as well as availability of ingredients. Look for the old Shiseido version of FdB (rather than the current Serge Lutens) and you will find what you remember. May 27, 2020 at 3:15pm Reply

      • Sebastian: Yes, I think I might do that, find a sample of the original version. As I remember, it was mainly dry fruit, violets (ionones) and wood, which stemmed from the use of more than 40% ISO E Super in the formula. I can’t imagine any of those ingredients are hard to find or restricted. So IFRA probably is not the culprit in this case. And no IFRA regulation could justify the criminal attempt to smother me with benzoin. May 28, 2020 at 2:51am Reply

    • Lainey: Okay, I stand corrected: the Thierry Wasser version of Shalimar Cologne IS billed as an “Eau de Toilette.” Sorry for the confusion, John. (And my comment of Lush vs. typo Lysh was meant to go elsewhere!) May 30, 2020 at 11:48am Reply

  • Klaas: Hello all, I was wondering if anyone could recommend me a perfume that evokes a cup of strong, fragrant lapsang souchong tea? I LOVE the smell of it and would’t mind wearing something similar as a perfume. Though probably more in the colder months 😉

    Thank you! May 27, 2020 at 11:15am Reply

    • Sebastian: There is a perfume that has “Bohea” (which is kind of a cheap Lapsang) in its name: Bohea Bohème by Mona di Orio. I haven’t smelled it, but it might be worth seeking out. And there is L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Tea for Two, which I have been meaning to test for a while. Thanks for the reminder… May 27, 2020 at 11:56am Reply

      • Klaas: MdO has a flagship in Amsterdam. I’ve been wanting to go there and now I have a good reason! Thanks! May 28, 2020 at 12:19pm Reply

        • Sebastian: Please do come back here to say how you liked it. I’d be interested. May 28, 2020 at 3:09pm Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: There is actually a perfume out there that smells just like a pot of smokey tea! It is by CB I Hate Perfume and is called Russian Caravan.

      https://cbihateperfume.com/shop/perfumes-a-to-z/302 May 27, 2020 at 3:13pm Reply

      • Klaas: I Hate Perfume……love it! May 28, 2020 at 12:20pm Reply

    • John: Lush’s Breath of God has a dimension that is almost alarmingly reminiscent of Lapsang Souchong, my favourite tea… It does have other aspects, however, as well, which might be challenging (a very interesting melon note!) Try it, bu apply lightly as it is very strong, and too dense an application will confound your ability to pick out the notes you’re after. May 27, 2020 at 11:02pm Reply

      • Klaas: Oh, melon is a no go! But I’ll sniff it out anyway, thank you! May 28, 2020 at 12:21pm Reply

        • John: You are welcome! I’m very curious to know of your eventual response to it. May 29, 2020 at 1:58am Reply

    • Dawn W: CB I Hate Perfume – Cedarwood Tea is beautiful as well. May 28, 2020 at 12:33am Reply

      • Klaas: Cedarwood Tea sounds yummie! Thank you for the suggestion. May 28, 2020 at 12:22pm Reply

    • Tourmaline: Hi Klaas,

      I’ve found three of Victoria’s posts, and one of Andy’s, that might be interesting for you to read, if not helpful.

      The first is “Reading Tea Leaves: Best Tea Perfumes in 10 Different Styles”, from August 4, 2017, in which Bulgari Black is mentioned.

      The second is “Bulgari Black: Fragrance Review”, from November 14, 2006. Here is a quote from it to tantalize your taste buds: “Bvlgari Black with its smoke and resin accords that oscillate between dark roasted lapsang souchong tea and rubber is one of the most …”

      The third is “Modern Classics: Tea Colognes and Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert”, from July 28, 2017.

      The fourth, Andy Gerber’s guest post, is “Lapsang Souchong Tea: Smoky Harmony”, of February 3, 2016. This one is about tea, but it has a few tea perfume suggestions at the end.

      I hope you find the above references of interest, and I hope you find a tea fragrance you love!

      With kind regards,
      Tourmaline May 28, 2020 at 5:31am Reply

      • Klaas: Thank you Tourmaline! May 28, 2020 at 12:29pm Reply

        • Tourmaline: You’re welcome, Klaas. May 28, 2020 at 10:41pm Reply

      • Sebastian: Gerber mentions Comme des Garcons Tea. I’ve looked it up on Fragrantica. One reviewer writes:
        “The overall effect, as previously mentioned, smells at first like cooking a slab of meat on a spit over a fire made of hospital waste.”
        I think I must get a sample presto. May 29, 2020 at 4:18am Reply

        • Sebastian: It’s discontinued. May 29, 2020 at 4:29am Reply

          • Tourmaline: Damn and blast! Can’t say I’m surprised, though… May 29, 2020 at 7:23am Reply

          • Klaas: Oh, that’s too bad. Although some of the comments on Fragrantica are much more over the top than the actual fragrances. Still, it would have been a nice one to try.

            I hope you like the Shiseido FdB and that your bottle is of good quality! May 30, 2020 at 3:49pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: I wonder if Bvlgari’s Eau Parfumee au The Noir might work for you? It is separate from Bvlgari Black and is based on a Chinese black tea. May 28, 2020 at 10:27pm Reply

      • Klaas: I’ll check it out, thank you for the recommendation! May 30, 2020 at 3:49pm Reply

  • Danica Radovanov: Anyone have any recommendations for black pepper perfumes? I dont like the current iteration of Noir Epices, I remember the old one too well. I love Unum Lavs but it’s a little cold with the incense. Piper Nigrum was too simple, I think I want a perfume. Thanks. May 28, 2020 at 2:12am Reply

    • Sebastian: Comme Des Garcons Blackpepper. The pepper accord in this is created from woods and musks, pretty long-lasting (for a pepper note), and not totally unrealistic. The strong pepper dominates the beginning. After a while warm cedar and a slight sweetness from Tonka appear. Nice work. May 28, 2020 at 8:14am Reply

      • Klaas Backx: Yep, CdG Blackpepper is very, very good! The pepper accord is convincing and the drydown is warm and woody. I’d love to wear it but sadly it disappears the second it hits my skin. However, my cousin wears it frequently and it is a absolute bomb on him!

        If you want to something a bit more posh you could look for Hermes Poivre Samarcande. It is more subtle and refined, although your wallet needs to be much thicker also. I’d try the Comme des Garçons first! May 28, 2020 at 12:17pm Reply

        • Danica Radovanov: These are great suggestions thank you!!! May 28, 2020 at 12:59pm Reply

        • Sebastian: A bit of background: The pepper in CdG Blackpepper comes from rotundone, a molecule that smells of woody peppery agarwood and occurs naturally in Akigalawood, and Pepperwood (TM), a compound patented by Givaudan in 2006, which is fresh, spicy, peppery [1]. There is a Facebook post by “Scent & Chemistry” that describes this and calls Blackpepper “supernatural” and “the superlative of pepper”. [2]

          There is no end to what modern chemistry can do in perfumery! So many new compounds are invented every year, we will always be able to enjoy perfumes that are really new, that could not have existed before, that are not just new twists on what is already there.

          [1] https://www.givaudan.com/file/26086/download
          [2] https://www.facebook.com/ScentChemistry/posts/the-other-prime-example-for-solisupernatural-perfumes-is-without-doubt-the-very-/1566028150090860/ May 28, 2020 at 4:46pm Reply

          • Klaas: Hahaha, and we’ll be there to scrutinize them 😉 May 29, 2020 at 6:10am Reply

    • Aurora: Also, there is l’Artisan Parfumeur Poivre Piquant, it’s on the sweet side. May 28, 2020 at 12:31pm Reply

  • jeanne: Hi, looking for a new hot weather perfume, something you could where in Mumbai, or alternately Philadelphia in the sticky thick summer. My favorite for several years has been Hermes Un Jardin Apres La Mousson. This scent cuts through the haze and gives a fresh sharp pleasant scent that stays with me through the day. The primary notes are ginger, vetiver, cardamon, coriander, pepper, with hints of melon/cucumber/lotus flower.
    I also like Bal D’Afrique. I am looking for something in this vein to get me through was promises to be a sticky summer in the northeastern US. Thank you for you help! May 28, 2020 at 11:18am Reply

    • Jeanne Kohl: whoops, “wear”. May 28, 2020 at 11:18am Reply

      • Rachel: Hi Jeanne, I suggest Dior Homme Cologne. It’s really refreshing in hot and humid weather. Affordable, too. May 30, 2020 at 7:23pm Reply

    • Aurora: I too rely a lot on the Jardins series to get me through summer, I love La Mousson and Le Nil. You could explore the Bvlgari Thes series, The Vert and The Vert Extreme are classics with the sparkling the vert accord, The Blanc is orange blossom, The Rouge figgy and nutty, The Bleu has lavender. Atelier Cologne has nice citrussy offerings too, and the whole Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo line is designed for summer as is the Dior Escale line, Pondichery and Portofino for eg, and also several Eaux from Diptyque, I like l’Eau Neroli but many others are equally good. May 28, 2020 at 5:35pm Reply

  • Lolo: Looking for a “soft” lemony-vanilla fragrance. I have a sample of La Perla’s Eclix which I like, however, it’s discontinued and tends to be expensive online. That lemon-vanilla-musk combo is a “comfort scent” for me. I prefer a sweet, not sharp, lemon. Thank you for your input! May 28, 2020 at 12:54pm Reply

    • Aurora: You might like Guerlain Souffle de Parfum (not the intense), I wear it often, it is sweet ctrus, lemon included, vanilla and musk. May 28, 2020 at 4:53pm Reply

      • Lolo: A softer, lemony Shalimar sounds intriguing. Will definitely check this one out. May 30, 2020 at 9:08am Reply

    • Aurora: citrus, sorry for the typo. May 28, 2020 at 5:16pm Reply

    • Danaki: I like Collette by Tocca. It is not fresh citrus, but sweet and the vanilla drydown is sublime. May 28, 2020 at 5:53pm Reply

      • Lolo: My local Sephora carries the Tocca line. Will give this a spritz the next time I go to the mall (which may be a while, still isolating). May 30, 2020 at 9:12am Reply

    • Caroline: Fresh’s Sugar Lemon springs to mind. Fragrantica has it classified as a citrus gourmand. It used to be nice…it’s been at least 5 years or more since I’ve sampled it. May 28, 2020 at 10:08pm Reply

      • Lolo: Will check this out at Sephora also, thanks! May 30, 2020 at 9:14am Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: There’s a small artisan perfume company called Ganache Parfums that makes a scent named Lemon Creme! It sounds just like what you describe. http://www.ganacheparfums.com. (I have no connection with the company). May 28, 2020 at 10:37pm Reply

      • Sebastian: This made me curious. You’ve got to be really, really deep into gourmands to appreciate that: “Our interpretation of temptingly tart and fluffy lemon meringue cookie sitting on top of velvety vanilla custard drizzled with Meyer lemon glaze.” But if you’re interested, their Memorial Day sale is still on and Lemon Creme is on sale for 30% off. (I also have no connection with the company.) May 29, 2020 at 4:04am Reply

      • Lolo: Sounds delicious! Thanks for suggesting. May 30, 2020 at 9:15am Reply

    • Tourmaline: Hi Lolo,

      The fragrances already suggested sound lovely. But in case they don’t work out… I see that J. R. Watkins Lemon Cream Hand and Body Lotion gets very good reviews on MakeupAlley, and is described as a “lemon vanilla” fragrance. According to the J. R. Watkins website, it is still available (along with a hand lotion), so perhaps that could satisfy your craving until you find a suitable perfume.

      Actually, you’ve just given me an idea. I have two 100ml bottles of Limoncello EDP by MOR (an Australian brand, discontinued fragrance) that I bought maybe ten years ago, on super special. I like the scent, but it’s the only spray fragrance that has ever caused my skin to sting and turn red. I have so much other perfume that the two boxed bottles have just been sitting on a shelf all that time, the opened one taken down every couple of years for me to check whether it still causes the same reaction.

      Prompted by your comment, I shall try rubbing a non-irritating vanilla oil over my skin prior to spraying the Limoncello. Maybe I’ll like resulting fragrance even more! And perhaps I’ll sell or give away the second bottle.

      I hope you find a fragrance you love.

      With kind regards,
      Tourmaline May 29, 2020 at 10:56am Reply

      • Lolo: The Watkins lemon hand cream and lotion are two of my go-to favorites which garner many compliments. My skin also tends to be reactive. Good luck with your limoncello/vanilla oil experiment. May 30, 2020 at 9:22am Reply

        • Tourmaline: Thanks, Lolo May 30, 2020 at 10:00am Reply

    • Lainey: Lolo, look above for my comments to John re: the Shalimar flanker known as “Shalimar Cologne.” It is lemon-heaven at the top, some light florals in the heart, and the lovely vanilla-musk Guerlinade drydown. Still available & very affordable on the discounter’s websites. The notes as listed on Basenotes:

      Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Lime, 
      Grapefruit

      Heart Notes: Rose, Jasmine, Freesia

      Base Notes: White musk, Vanilla, Iris May 30, 2020 at 12:02pm Reply

      • Lolo: Thanks for this intriguing recommendation. A lightened-up, lemony Shalimar sounds delightful. I’ll give this a try! June 1, 2020 at 12:18am Reply

  • Nancy A: Hello Aurora,
    Thank you for your suggestions from the UK . Surrender to Chance I am not familiar with as well as the sites in your locale. With the challenges here in the USA and directly under my new address where I recently moved it is a good diversion to enjoy scent. Be Safe & Be Well. Best regards, Nancy June 9, 2020 at 7:10am Reply

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