Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors.
How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!
To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.
Photography by Bois de Jasmin, Black Sea, a view from Odesa.
154 Comments
Haru: Many years ago I was in a Fb fragrance group, and I have the chance to try some creations from Daniel Pescio, when they where still in their refinement phase, but now he has other wonderful new ones and variations. I would like you to try his Fleur cannibale plum extrait, or sandal extrait with a 8% natural extrait. An I would add other of his Osmanthus series. Thank you very much I love your blog and videos. From Argentina with much love. August 24, 2020 at 9:59am
A.P.: Hi All, I would love to get recommendations for either of these two points:
1) unisex/feminine fragrances with cardamom (I already have and love Timbuktu, so if you have something in mind with a different feel I would be very interested.)
2) recommendations for fall that are not too heavy: fragrances that start out fresher and warm up over time. I really like fresh spicy, or aromatic stuff that turn into something cozy in the drydown. August 24, 2020 at 10:26am
Anne: hello, regarding the cardamom, have you tried Mimosa and Cardamom by Jo malone? I am not the best with Jo Malone fragrances, but this one is quite amazing to me. August 24, 2020 at 10:36am
A.P.: I don’t think I did, actually! I remember trying a few Jo Malones a while back but I don’t think this was one of them. Thanks for the tip, I will definitely try it! August 24, 2020 at 11:38am
Damiana: Hi there, these are my recommendations:
1. For scents with cardamom, I’d suggest Mandala by Masque Milano, if you also like incense and myrrh along with other spices, and Daim Blonde by Serge Lutens, which is more centered on iris and suede with apricot hints, but where the cardamom note is still present.
2. For a fragrance that starts out very fresh, green, and aromatic but settles on a warmer bed, I’d recommend Ambra Calabria by Nishane. August 24, 2020 at 12:13pm
Courant: Daim Blonde is a favourite of mine August 24, 2020 at 1:38pm
Damiana: Same here! A favorite from Lutens. August 25, 2020 at 5:00pm
A.P.: Thanks for the tips! Masque Milano and Nishane have been under my radar so far, you definitely made me interested! August 25, 2020 at 4:06am
Damiana: You’re very welcome! Happy I could help. Also consider Cacao Azteque by Perris Monte Carlo, which has cardamom along with several other spices. A favorite of mine from the brand! August 25, 2020 at 5:02pm
Ninon: Oh and Eris Night Flower for cardamom! August 28, 2020 at 2:31am
Nina Z: Kenzo Jungle L’Elephant has a good cardamom note. And Victoria gives it five stars!
https://boisdejasmin.com/2012/10/kenzo-jungle-lelephant-perfume-review.html August 24, 2020 at 1:41pm
A.P.: I heard a lot about Jungle L’Elephant but never had the chance to try it, maybe it’s time. Thanks for the tip! August 25, 2020 at 4:07am
Karin: I love the elephant. It’s quite a va-va-voom
fragrance, even with moderate spritzing so be prepared 😉 August 25, 2020 at 5:48am
aurora: Hi: a wonderful cardamom is Hermes Voyage. August 24, 2020 at 1:57pm
A.P.: Thanks for the recommendation! I think I never considered that one because the local stores display it at the masculine section. I will give it a sniff! August 25, 2020 at 4:09am
Silvermoon: Hi AP,
Have you tried Fougere Bengale (Perfums d’Empire)? I also second Mimosa and Cardamom as well as Jungle L’Elephant (the last has a very strong cardamom note). BTW Fougere Bengale might also qualify for your second request (fresh spicy). August 24, 2020 at 3:03pm
A.P.: Hi, no I haven’t even heard of Fougere Bengale but that will be remedied! Thanks for the tips! 🙂 August 25, 2020 at 4:10am
Jessicarus: I think Neela Vermeire’s Mojur has a wonderful cardamom note. It fits your criteria for a fall scent too, but I’m not sure it would be universally be considered unisex. August 24, 2020 at 3:45pm
A.P.: Sounds great, thanks! August 25, 2020 at 4:21am
ninon: Agreed. I only get real depth/complexity from the extract, unfortunately. Certainly a beautiful perfume. August 28, 2020 at 8:40pm
Ninon: Oops autocorrect: extrait. August 28, 2020 at 8:40pm
cookie queen: Hermès Cardamusc is gorgeous. Pricey but stunning! Ormonde Jayne Woman has a nice cardamom note. August 24, 2020 at 4:57pm
A.P.: Oh i totally forgot about OJ Woman, I do have a sample of that. But I haven’t tried Cardamusc yet, thanks for the recommendation! August 25, 2020 at 4:22am
Marie: I also wanted to recommend Ormonde Woman, both for the cardamom and as a fall scent 🙂 August 25, 2020 at 6:01am
AndreaR: For your second question you might enjoy:
Galop d’ Hermes by Hermes
Jolie Madame by Balmain
Perfume Couleur Vanille by L’Artisan
Bois et Musc by Serge Luten August 24, 2020 at 6:01pm
A.P.: Oh I do kind of like Galop, but I got bored with it after a while. I will check out the others, thank you! August 25, 2020 at 4:24am
Morelle: Amouage Opus I has a very prominent cardamom note, it is unisex tending towards femine, and it is not at all like Timbuktu. It’s very high quality in every respect, but unfortunately that includes the price. August 24, 2020 at 6:17pm
A.P.: Thank you very much! I haven’t had a lot of exposure to Amouage yet but I know our local niche store carries it so I will definitely check it out! August 25, 2020 at 4:27am
Ariadne: Still pondering V’s wonderful post and video on ‘pyramid constructed’ perfumes and wondering if a perfume creator knows when individual notes will ‘present’ after a perfume is applied. I guess I’m asking if a perfumer’s skill must also encompasses a knowledge of timing as well as harmony, much as in music composition. September 1, 2020 at 12:45pm
Ariadne: so sorry I placed my query not in the proper spot. September 1, 2020 at 12:47pm
Old Herbaceous: For a fall fragrance, you might like one of my favorite “bargain beauties”: Adam Levine for Women. It was created by Yann Vasnier. Fragrantica lists these notes: Top notes are saffron, citruses, marigold and spices; middle notes are indian jasmine, australian sandalwood and rose petals; base notes are benzoin and vanilla. On my skin, it does start out fresh and spicy, then it goes floral; then it has a very warm base. It is discontinued but widely available at discounters for less than $15 for 100 ml. August 24, 2020 at 8:58pm
A.P.: Thank you, I very much like the sound of a bargain beauty! 🙂 August 25, 2020 at 4:28am
Matty1649: I love Adam Levine for women, cheap as chips as well . August 25, 2020 at 5:50am
Karina: For Nr 2 I recommend Serge Lutens Gris Clair. It’s has a very cozy, intimate and enveloping dry down without ever going into sweet territory. August 25, 2020 at 5:50am
Bettina: For cardamom, have you tried Lubin’s Black Jade? It is said to be based on one of the recipes they found for Marie Antoinette. August 25, 2020 at 6:55pm
Rosie: I think Marni by Marni would tick all you’re boxes, it is an incense rose, with cardomom.
Although this perfume is discontinued, it is available for reasonable price on eBay.
Marni is really lovely, and one of my go to autumn perfumes.
Another nice incense rose for autumn, is Hippie Rose by James Heeley, no cardomom, but moss and patchouli instead. August 27, 2020 at 9:06am
Rosie: I reccomend Marni (rose, Incense, cardamom), this is one of my autumn go to perfumes. Discontinued but reasonable prices on eBay.
Vetiver Insolent by Miller Harris is another lovely aromatic and spicy incense with cardomom. August 27, 2020 at 9:35am
Ninon: I also love Timbuktu. For me, a spiritual cousin is Thundra, a witchy, loamy white patchouli with mint. The drydown smells lavender like and rather cozy. I also love Nasomatto Absinth, which is also earthy but more damp. August 28, 2020 at 2:27am
Cecilia: I would recomendó Jungle Elephant by Kenzo September 5, 2020 at 9:37pm
Joy Erickson: I am curious about the EL Aerin fragrance Limone di Sicilia. I have been trying to obtain a sample, but have not had success. I have this idea that it could remind me if Azuree. Likely too much to expect. Has anyone sampled or purchased this fragrance, and what is your opinion? August 24, 2020 at 11:40am
Old Herbaceous: Hi! I haven’t tried Limone di Sicilia, but I have and love Azuree. Limone sounds lovely, especially if the combination of lemon and lily of the valley works, but to my nose Azuree is a different kind of mix: leather, oakmoss, green herbs. TBH, I have tried many of the Aerin fragrances and I don’t find them very compelling. Pretty? Absolutely. But they also don’t last long on my skin, and for that price … August 24, 2020 at 8:50pm
Joy Erickson: Thank you. That was my experience with the rose geranium. It was pretty, but not dramatic nor distinctive. Although the description sounds delicious. August 24, 2020 at 8:59pm
Rakasa: FWIW, that has been my exactly my experience with all EL Aerin fragrances: pleasantly inoffensive while being largely un-memorable. Scents designed by the consensus of focus groups, then strangled further into a pale shadow of that by accountants. Is really too bad. Some of the concepts Aerin chose could have produced some rather amazingly unique and dynamic fragrances — in the hands of the right perfumers. And under a Creative Director with both a backbone and vision. EL has completely lost their edge since they lost the services of the “American Guerlain” that originally made EL fragrances so wonderful: Creative Director Karyn Khoury. August 26, 2020 at 8:49pm
Joy Erickson: Your comments are echoing my experience. EL used to make fabulous fragrances. I have to confess I still like Youth Dew in small doses. I loved many of them. The Aerin fragrances sound exceptional. The descriptions sound enticing. Good to know that they are not exceptional.
Thank you. August 26, 2020 at 9:15pm
Ugo: I recommend you Jasmin Antique by Rogue. I read an article on Fragrantica and I was immediately fascinated by the fact that Rogue Perfumery doesn’t follow IFRA regulations in fact this fragrance is an EXPLOSION of Jasmine Grandiflorum in all his animalic, green, creamy and narcotic splendor. Really interesting and lovely and very persistent!! August 24, 2020 at 1:01pm
Nina Z: I agree with this and love how you call it an “explosion.” It’s not really how I want to smell, so I didn’t purchase it, but I was extremely impressed with it and thought it very beautiful. Anyone who adores jasmine should check it out. August 24, 2020 at 1:39pm
Nina Z: Yes, this is definitely an “explosion” of jasmine that is beautiful and well done. It’s not how I want to smell, so I haven’t purchased it, but I was super impressed with it and think anyone who adores jasmine should check it out. August 24, 2020 at 1:43pm
Ugo: I think Victoria would love it! It reminds me of Serge Lutens A La Nuit, with that “medicinal” note that is a little bit bittersweet but then it melts perfectly with the skin August 24, 2020 at 2:06pm
Peter: I always agree with Nina Z’s sophisticated nose. I don’t follow Perfume Politics and I try to judge a scent on it’s own merit. I do love three Manuel Cross’ creations (Chypre-Siam, Derviche, and the above-mentioned Jasmin Antique). I’ve also sampled Ishtar, Flos Mortis, and Tuberose + Moss. Each fragrance is exciting and redolent of times past. The pricing is also quite reasonable. August 26, 2020 at 9:49pm
Fazal: I will be honest with you. I was on the train called “bash IFRA” in the beginning but I am not sure anymore. I think this IFRA bashing has gone a bit too far and often on the basis of unfounded assumptions. Creativity is still very much alive in the age of IFRA regulations and perfumers have a much bigger palette of essence and aromachemicals to play with than their predecessors so if anything, their hands are not tied today but they actually have much bigger room for experiment…
I think Rogue Perfumery’s bashing of IFRA is disingenuous and more a marketing ploy. I am not sure how IFRA bashing actually makes him more creative. His creations seem to me more like jamboree of different ingredients rather than proper perfumes with skilled layers of different notes. Sorry but I do not think of him as a proper perfumer and I have come to hate this trend where everyone assumes he/she can be a perfumer. I see this as an insult to those who have gone through years of education and training to earn their title as a perfumer. It is for this reason why I HATE people like Roja Dove who are not perfumers but marketers but like to play ‘one’. August 24, 2020 at 7:37pm
Chris in Oakland: Hi there, I understand your comments about marketing ploys and such–you are probably right that those perfumers who reject IFRA regulations are very loud about it to get attention. But I have to disagree with you about Manuel Cross/Rogue specifically. Marketing aside, he is most definitely a skilled perfumer, in a certain vein of vintage style. Have you tried many of his perfumes? I find them beautiful and complex. In fact Chypre-Siam helped me to appreciate Mitsouko in a different way. Think of a fashion designer who makes vintage styled clothing, but with high quality fabrics lovely to the touch. This is just a different aesthetic than avant-garde fashion. August 26, 2020 at 9:31am
Nina Z: Nice explanation! August 26, 2020 at 12:11pm
Fazal: You have a right to your opinion and I respect that. I have tried his creations and to be honest, I am not impressed and I think smelling them only affirms my conviction that he is not a proper perfumer. I mean you would not really call Kanye a fashion designer even if he puts out clothes out there. Calling Kanye a fashion designer is an insult to proper fashion designers such as Yves Saint Laurent or Alexander McQueen and so on… August 26, 2020 at 4:19pm
Fazal: And I also think that just using good quality ingredients does not mean you are a perfumer. Anyone can access such ingredients, mix them up, call it a perfume, and market the product. What you may be impressed with are the ingredients. Using good quality ingredients and knowing how to use ingredients properly are two different things. A proper perfumer can create a beautiful perfume even with average or cheap ingredients. This is why I suspect that sometimes people are just impressed with the individual ingredients in the scent and do not realize that such a scent did not really require much technical skills to create. August 26, 2020 at 4:26pm
Chris in Oakland: Fazal, I guess we agree to disagree 😄… To my enthusiastic appreciator’s nose, Rogue’s perfumes are indeed skillfully composed, and it’s evident to me that he understands classic forms such as fougere and chypre, and creates odes to them with lovely materials, including the progressions of notes that characterize them. But I don’t have technical skills in the art, so can’t discern when others do and do not possess them… August 26, 2020 at 4:43pm
Rakasa: Bravo, Fazal! Very well spoken. I think we perfumistas need to start being exactly as selective about buying from new lines as you outline. This past year in particular, I have been seriously disappointed to discover that around 80-90% of the new crop of Perfume Houses are ‘Marketeers‘ that completely lack the skills to be a Master Perfumer. August 26, 2020 at 9:06pm
Fazal: Yeah. To be honest, I don’t think there is anything wrong in starting a perfume house as long as you are honest and not a charlatan who pretends to be something he/she is not. Serge Lutens and Frederic Malle are not perfumers but I don’t think being honest has hurt their reputations in any manner. They are good creative directors and being a good creative director is also a skill/trait that not many possess.
It just bugs me when people pretend to be something they are not because it is an insult to those who have worked hard and put in thousands of hours and/or years to earn their respective designations. Roja Dove is a classic example I often raise. Think about the perfumers who spent years to learn perfumery and then years and even decades to earn the title of a Master Perfumer and then this charlatan (Roja Dove), who is a former marketer and sales trainer at Guerlain, starts calling himself a Master Perfumer and the finest nose in the world. Just imagine how much it should piss of those who are actually Master Perfumers and have earned the designation through hard work and decades of investment in their craft. August 26, 2020 at 9:59pm
Rakasa: Exactement! RD is as infuriating as those lines popping up everywhere by the latest supposed Euro count, duchess or princessa, dusting off the ‘royal’ family album. Or the latest batch of unauthored chemicals claiming to be “clean”.
Yet as you also rightly note, wading through them all brings us self-taught magicians like Christophe Laudamiel (who went back for formal perfume training) to bring us the awesome creativity of “The Zoo” and “Strangelove NYC” among others.
Or Fabio Brunetta with the fabulous results of DFG 1924! Fabio had the wisdom to hire master perfumer Roberto Dario to bring new life to his family’s historical scent catalog. Accomplished beautifully while adding new scents of places (N. Italy) and of the heart.
My personal favorites are “Il Sentiero Degli Dei” which sings such that it feels, and wears, bespoke plus “Aroma Vivienne”. The three current DFG 1924 collections have so many astounding compositions you’ll be quite hard-pressed to pick only one. August 26, 2020 at 11:07pm
Fazal: Agreed! I have nothing against starting new ventures. It’s just that I think honesty matters and I even believe that honesty is beneficial in the long term. No one, whether industry insiders or customers, can bring himself/herself to respect a charlatan/pretentious folks. You can be someone with no perfumery background or technical skills but still be fascinated by perfumes. And if you do enter the industry, just be honest that you are a brand owner or a creative director if that is your involvement in the creative process instead of proclaiming yourself, like Roja Dove, the best nose in the history of mankind when in reality your past resume is primarily a trainer of sales associates for Guerlain. For the sake of honesty, I must disclose I have two perfumes from Roja Dove. One I got back in 2011 or so because someone sold me two perfumes including the Roja Dove one for around 100 bucks for both and the second Roja Dove perfume was gifted to me and turned out to be a clone of Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum which did not surprise me at all as Roja Done clones classics and seriously lacks creativity and imagination. I am determined not to buy perfumes from brands like Roja Dove who, I believe, insult the craft of perfumery. August 26, 2020 at 11:19pm
Rakasa: Plus the two worthy self-taught marvels:
Spyros Drosopoulos and Antonio Alessandria (of whom even Luca Turin remains in awe). August 26, 2020 at 11:17pm
Rakasa: Have you found Rouge’s scents to be consistently intriguing? Like you the IFRA non-compliance caught my eye. But I decided to wait for a bit before sampling/assessing their fragrances. August 26, 2020 at 8:53pm
Aelis: Dear all,
I’ve been enjoying this website for quite a while now, and couldn’t resist posting a question!
After a year of using only light, fresh fragrances, I started craving something deeper and warmer.
Could anyone by any chance tell me if Guerlain Idylle edp is (still) worth buying (in other words, has it been heavily reformulated)? I remember having a sample of the edp and body cream back in 2011, and I was absolutely mesmerized by it. It seemed to develop this slightly dark, wonderful, musky warmth underneath the flowers, but back then I feared it might be too mature for me. A couple of months ago, I tested it at a store but I can’t remember if it was the edp or edt and I didn’t test it on skin, which is a mistake, I know, but I already had too much going on on my arms. Anyway, on paper it simply smelled sweet and not nearly as rich and interesting as I remember. If anyone is familiar with the scent and its possible changes over the years, I would be very grateful for any kind of info! Due to current travel restrictions, I’m afraid I’ll have to make my next purchase online (I very much prefer the old-fashioned way!) so I’m trying to inform myself as much as possible. August 24, 2020 at 4:40pm
Old Herbaceous: I’m sorry, I don’t know Idylle at all, but I hope someone else here does! I wouldn’t worry one bit about it being too mature for you. If it makes you happy, it’s perfect! You might see if you can get a sample mailed to you, maybe by contacting a local store? August 25, 2020 at 11:02pm
Aelis: Thank you very much for your reply!
There was something very alluring and warm (sensual but never heavy) about Idylle, I remember it very clearly. I was 20 years old at the time and I somehow shied away from it. I’ve been browsing through online reviews and as some people claim the fragrance in the “new” bee bottle is different, I worry this depth may have been lost. I will certainly try to obtain a sample (it might be tricky though), but I thought I’d post a comment here since this seems to be one of the most knowledgeable and informative fragrance-related pages that I came across on the internet! August 26, 2020 at 10:51am
Rakasa: Aelis: I can’t speak directly about Idylle, but there is a letter from a former Guerlain employee that can help you navigate the ins/outs of which Guerlain ‘reformulations’ are which/when. Here’s the link to the letter: http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspot.com/2018/01/a-letter-from-ex-guerlain-employee.html?m=1 August 26, 2020 at 9:28pm
Aelis: Thank you so much!
I actually remember finding and comparing this formula number on two recent bottles of Dior Addict Eau Fraîche (which I found extremely beautiful on first sniff and didn’t feel like wearing anything else during the past year or so, except some of the Jardins, but I also remember both Addict flankers being different and more interesting several years ago) because I noticed the ingredients were not entirely the same. I will definitely try to do some research on Idylle formula number, and in the meantime if anyone has tested/worn a recent version of the fragrance, please feel free to weigh in 🙂 August 28, 2020 at 5:03am
Cecilia: Yes Aelis, I have a new one and it’s so great as I remember the first I had.
Here in Uruguay it’s hard to find so Im saving it to special ocations. September 5, 2020 at 9:42pm
Aelis: Dear Cecilia,
Thank you so much for your reply! It’s great to hear that you find it as beautiful as the first one. Are you happy with its persistence, if I may ask? Does it last well on you?
When I wore my sample of Idylle I remember it being quite long lasting and its rich but not heavy presence would always get me many compliments. I don’t need my perfume to be too loud (that would not even be my style) but I am getting tired of spending hundreds of euros on perfumes that nobody notices but me (the ones I’ve been wearing lately are all much too quiet). September 6, 2020 at 6:08am
Cecilia: Yes, it has a great performance, on my skin and on fabric. I sprayed it on one arm of my bathrobe and in the other Angel Muse, two days later I can smell perfectly both perfumes.
I love your desciption of Idylle, because I feel the same it has presence without beeing overwhelming. September 22, 2020 at 12:27pm
Jenni: Hi Victoria,
I’m working with a local artisnal bakery that trains and employs young adults on the nurolocial spectrum (i.e autism, downs syndrome) You can check us out at http://www.rockinbaker.org.
I’m working to develop a unique scent for a candle to make available for the holidays.
We want a scent that’s unique to the bakery, one that captures the smell of fresh baked bread. – a signature smell for the bakery.
I’ve been exploring scents that have elements of fresh baked bread, but hoped you might help me a bit.
We’re looking for a “clean baked bread, without too much other scents. We’re open to hints of apple & chocolate because we make a loaf during the holidays with apple, cranberry, chocolate & walnut. However, we’re open to other scents as well.
We also like hints of juniper berry and rosemary — we DON’T like SWEET scents and don’t want one.
Here’s a scent brief I’m working on –and hoping you have some perfume ideas that I could add to the brief to help develop the scent.
Candle Scent Brief
Rockin’ Baker – Open our doors and smell the bakery.
We’re independence, have mastery, welcoming.
Notes and words that come to mind:
Green, juniper, herbaceous, warm, welcoming
foundational/elemental
comforting
malty
“bready”
a little bit powdery buy not sweet
wheat
toasty
steamy
crustiness vs contrast — contrasting smells —
cushiony comfort.
crunch with cushion
fresh meal raw pastry/dough
yummy, nurtured, a little bit spoiled or nurtured — being taken care of.
Walk in to Rockin’ Baker and smell the baking bread that’s been handcrafted – ahhhh,
it’s so wonderfully colored by the anticipation and excitement of knowing you are about to eat. Words associated with our bread and bakery.
warm, welcoming, comforting, wheaty, toasty, steamy, a little bit powdery but not sweet, flour dust, yeasty, crust with cushion, farine (farinaceous).
Metaphors associated with Rockin’Baker
Indépendant, mastery, welcoming, supported, nurtured, educating.
Perhaps Aromas of: amber, cuddling, with a bit of herbaceous tingling of rosemary – a bit camphorness, farinaceous, cucumber, melon rind, a bit metallic.
Here’s some of our organizational copy:
Rockin’ Baker bakes artisanal breads, handcrafted daily, made by an extraordinary team of employees with intellectual and developmental differences who we employ, train, and when appropriate, place in the community.
Our breads are beautiful, nutritious and made with purpose.
Every time you purchase from Rockin’ Baker you support our mission to provide a job-readiness program that creates the only artisanal breads for sale to the finest local restaurants, and to be donated to local food banks, schools, and families throughout NWA.
That’s what we call Bread with Benefits!
We don’t just bake extraordinary handcrafted artisan breads, we bring extraordinary people together to make our bread with loving care. Every time you buy from Rockin’ Baker, you support an adult with autism, Down Syndrome and other special abilities to thrive. This unique job and life readiness training program shifted in times of Covid to bake and donate to local food banks, schools and families. So in addition to bringing the best into your home and restaurants throughout Northwest Arkansas, we help families get through hard times.
How’s that for recommend me a perfume?
Thanks for all you give – I’m so sad to have not traveled with you for the Ukraine trip. Fingers crossed for next year. August 24, 2020 at 9:48pm
Old Herbaceous: What a wonderful project! Does the bakery make a rosemary bread? One of my favorite breads is the rosemary/sea salt boule, made with olive oil, that I get at a local bakery. With a good bready note, those notes would smell lovely together. 4160 Tuesdays used to have a scent called Up the Apples and Pears that has some of the notes you mentioned; you can still get it in the US at krystalfragrance.com. August 25, 2020 at 6:53am
jeni: Any suggestions for a bready, toasty scent? not sweet. August 24, 2020 at 9:59pm
Karina: Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau instantly comes to mind August 25, 2020 at 5:53am
Jenni: Thanks Karina. Just re-read Victoria’s review and she offers some great descriptors. August 25, 2020 at 10:14am
Old Herbaceous: Have you tried Bois Farine by L’Artisan Parfumeur? August 25, 2020 at 6:42am
Ninon: This. FM En Passant has a bread note. August 28, 2020 at 2:29am
Leanne Lovie: I get a really interesting bran muffin type bready note frum Ummagumma August 25, 2020 at 7:47am
Nina Z: This is an interesting one that no one talks about anymore: Lann-Ael by Lostmarch. It smells like cereal. It has notes of vanilla, hay, apple, wheat and milk.
https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Lostmarch/Lann-Ael-6789.html August 25, 2020 at 9:17pm
Tijana: I would love a recommendation on a “lemon cake” fragrance. What I mean buy that is a sweeter (gourmand is ok) and hopefully longer-lasting combo of lemon/lime plus vanilla. Thanks! August 25, 2020 at 2:32am
Karina: i think you will find some good suggestions in this thread
https://nstperfume.com/2020/08/14/friday-scent-of-the-day-8-14/ August 25, 2020 at 5:55am
Tijana: Thanks! August 25, 2020 at 6:05am
Tia: You could also try Uden by Xerjoff August 26, 2020 at 1:24pm
Tijana: Aaaaah, I was waiting for a Xerjoff recommendation! Thanks SO much! August 27, 2020 at 2:13am
irem: Hi Tijana, I am sorry if my suggestion is both wrong and very obvious to boot (not a true lemon and I am sure you have smelled it many, many times) – but I could not resist replying. Your “lemon cake” description made me smile with a big grin as it took me to old, old days, back when I knew nothing about perfume. First time sampling Shalimar (EdT or EdP, mid to late 90s) all I could think was “citrus tart” and was perplexed how citrus tart does count as perfume. If you don’t mind swapping bergamot for lemon/lime, and a fancy French patisserie creation for a more homey cake, maybe? August 26, 2020 at 9:31pm
Tijana: Not at all, you actually reminded me, maybe not the original one, but I think one of the flankers for sure! Thanks so much! August 27, 2020 at 2:14am
Ugo: Everything is marketing, following ifra or not. I thought that being free means that you can obtain a result better but it’s obvious that you should be a talented perfumer to create a good fragrance. I don’t know Rogue perfumery, I just appreciated this particular creation because to me it smell better than other bland jasmine perfume. I’m sure that a talented nose can create even in the era of ifra but without regulation we can logically assume that a nose has more instruments. Just that August 25, 2020 at 4:30am
Jenni: Thanks! I’m with you rosemary sea salt boule would be divine. I’ll check into the 4160 Tuesday you mention.
Apologies for the extremely long comment….it was late at night and I didn’t realize it was so long until I saw it posted — also explains why it didn’t post immediately and followed with a much shorter one. August 25, 2020 at 10:03am
Old Herbaceous: I love your project and I hope you’ll keep this group updated on its progress! August 25, 2020 at 11:04pm
luci: Hi everyone, I love the chocolate smell in Missoni. Unfortunately, the fragrance has been discontinued. I would like to get recommendations of perfumes that smell similar to Missoni or have a realistic chocolate smell. I would appreciate if the perfumes recommended are readily available and not hard to find as i am living in a place that does not offer a wide range of perfume. Greetings from Indonesia. August 25, 2020 at 10:37am
aurora: Luci/ Is it Missoni Gianduia? I love that perfume, it is the best chocolate perfume I know. Have you thought about saving a search on eBay for it? August 26, 2020 at 12:47pm
Rakasa: Hi, Luci. You might want to explore Christophe Laudimiel’s deep dark chocolate spiked w/orange and a few more gourmand notes over an orris base in his “Melt My Heart for Strangelove NYC.
Or Bond-T by Giovanni Sammarco. Bond-T takes a visit to a top Italian chocolatier for their richest black chocolate cake, slathers it in thick layers over a spicy, earthy, and woody patchouli, then tosses in cognac, plummy fruits, tobacco, smooth leather, with a touch of expresso. August 26, 2020 at 10:05pm
Dan Sabatello: Can you recommend for a guy something for fall and winter or all season that in corporates many of the notes Tobacco, bergamot, sandalwood, Plum, musk, amber and neroli
I was leaning towards herod or naxos for the ch ooler months. I’d love a niche and designer recommendation.
Ty so much. August 25, 2020 at 11:14am
Old Herbaceous: I can’t think of a specific fragrance but have you tried any of the Amouage line for men? The notes you list seem as if one of them might fit the bill. August 25, 2020 at 6:09pm
OnWingsofSaffron: You might want to check out the range of the UK perfumer BeauFort—lots of tobacco related scents: https://beaufortlondon.com/product-category/hell-or-high-water-eau-de-parfum-collection/ August 26, 2020 at 2:29am
Karina: Hmm. Maybe you’ll go what?! But Shalimar, Hiram Green Voyage 2019 incorporate some of this notes and are sure to smell great on a man too. August 26, 2020 at 6:25am
aurora: Armani Bleu Lazuli has some of the notes, tobacco, plum, sandalwood, bergamot. August 26, 2020 at 1:06pm
Chris in Oakland: Chanel Egoïste doesn’t hit *all* those notes, but does have a fruity/rosy/sandalwood mixture that is wonderful for fall. August 27, 2020 at 2:19am
John Luna: I’d second the vote for Egoïste… The more I’ve worn it, the more the plum note sands out to me. It is a tart but dark plum (I have four different varieties of plum tree on my property), like the small European plum, if picked while still slightly sour. I have found that this note is highlighted in the deo stick especially. I certainly detect a very present spiced sandalwood (it pairs well with the simpler but sandal-centered Proraso Red, if you are a wetshaver). The tobacco note is a great great one, with a subtly burnt richness like a pipe stem supported by a darker woody undertone that feels like rosewood to me. Good luck! August 28, 2020 at 12:16pm
Ninon: SL Feminite du Bois, I believe, though I still haven’t sniffed it (I really wish I could test the original Shiseido). August 28, 2020 at 2:30am
Fleurycat: Hi A.P., I love Cardamom and I am always searching for it in fragrances that are not masculine leaning. A favorite of mine is Lumiere Blanche by Olfactive Studio. Prada Olfactories Double Dare is delicious as was the discontinued Amoureuse, by Parfums Delrae which both pack a wallop of cardamom, yet are not at all masculine leaning, just intense. The first two are available as decants so you could try them without a big investment. You might also like Parfum D’Empire Equistrius, or Etat Libre d’Orange Fils de Dieu, spicy, but not strictly with cardamom. Another discontinued fragrance that is not strictly cardamom but wonderfully spicy (clove, carnation) you can sometimes find is Penhaligon’s Lily & Spice. Good luck! I would love to hear follow up on the perfumes you find and enjoy. August 25, 2020 at 1:42pm
Nina Z: Amoureuse is a gorgeous perfume but it is discontinued and impossible to find. I regret not buying a bottle when I had the chance. But if you know something I don’t about how to find a bottle, do tell! August 25, 2020 at 9:19pm
Fleurycat: Hi Nina,
I could kick myself for not buying a bottle of Amoureuse as well, that and Coup de foudre which was one the most beautiful fresh rose fragrances I’ve ever found. I hesitated to mention it. I keep looking. Maybe someone here has a bottle they want to offload. ; ) August 25, 2020 at 10:13pm
Ninon: Equistrius is beautiful. August 28, 2020 at 2:34am
Natasha: Hello,
I recently sampled Rose Kashmirie by Parfums de Rosine and so enjoyed it. It reminded me of L’Artisan Safran Troublant, a fragrance with similar notes which sadly has poor staying power. Clearly I have a taste for gourmand fragrances. I was disappointed to learn that Rose Kashmirie has been discontinued. I would be grateful for any suggestions for other perfumes in the rose-vanilla-sandalwood vein. Thanks! August 25, 2020 at 9:55pm
aurora: Maybe you might like Aramis Calligraphy Saffron for saffron and rose. August 26, 2020 at 1:13pm
Natasha: Thank you for the suggestion! I am not familiar with this fragrance and will seek out a sample. I so appreciate your response! August 26, 2020 at 1:31pm
Nina Z: Although Amouage Lyric Woman doesn’t smell like Safran Troublant (which has a strong saffron note), Lyric Woman is a beautiful oriental-style rose that also has saffron and sandalwood. It is one of my very favorite rose fragrances. It is very strong and long lasting, at least on me. August 26, 2020 at 2:53pm
Nina Z: P.S. Victoria gives Lyric Woman four stars. She says it is a technically a chypre, but I experience it more as an oriental. And, also, about the price, you can find testers of it for WAY less than the full price.
https://boisdejasmin.com/2012/09/amouage-lyric-woman-perfume-review.html August 26, 2020 at 2:57pm
Natasha: Thank you for your suggestion! I’ll look for it. August 26, 2020 at 4:26pm
irem: Hi Natasha, this is more saffron-rose, but have you tried Ormonde Jayne Ta’if. It definitely has a gourmet angle, think Arabian dessert with dates, rose, orange-flower watter, and saffron. A dry amber base substitutes for vanilla, making it less edible more proper parfum. I remember Ta’if having good staying power, but there is apparently a new Intensivo version as well. August 26, 2020 at 9:55pm
Rosie: I second Taif, so beautiful! August 27, 2020 at 9:38am
Natasha: Thank you for the suggestion! I will look for a sample. August 29, 2020 at 4:00pm
Tourmaline: Hi Natasha,
Have you tried Ombre Rose (the original) from 1981 by Jean Charles Brosseau? It contains those three notes, along with many others. It’s a favourite rose of mine from way back.
With kind regards,
Tourmaline August 28, 2020 at 5:56am
Natasha: Thank you Tourmaline! I do not know this fragrance. I will look for a sample. August 29, 2020 at 4:01pm
Tourmaline: I found it quite rich. To my mind, “Rose Musk” was The Body Shop’s copy of the scent. I hope you like it. August 31, 2020 at 2:55am
Emilie: Hi ! I’m looking for a fall perfume to replace Guerlain’s Après L’Ondée, which is sadly no longer available where I live. I enjoy Diorissimo and Frederique Malle en passant but find them too light and not very long lasting on my skin. What would you recommend ? Many thanks August 27, 2020 at 7:55am
aurora: Hi Emilie, have you considered l’Heure Bleue EDP for fall? Less delicate, more assertive than than Après l’Ondée but in the same vein. Diptyque Volutes is good for fall if you like tobacco, Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille is equally warm but without tobacco, it’s a coconut vanilla, slightly caramelized or an amber like Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan or Jean Patou Sublime?
. August 27, 2020 at 9:12am
aurora: Also another amber I like very much, Stendhal Ambre Sublime, cinnamon with amber. August 27, 2020 at 9:22am
irem: Hi Emilie, L’Heure Bleue (suggested by aurora) is a perfect suggestion, same house (Guerlain), same undercurrent, shared melancholy. If you like violet notes and are open to try something sweeter Chanel Misia comes to mind, you could even try Lipstick Rose from Malle.
If you want to keep the violet and want to go more woody dry rather than rosy sweet, Serge Lutens Bois de Violette is arguably one of the masterpieces of perfumery.
Finally, there is L’Eau d’Hiver from Malle, I remember it being a modern interpretation of Apres L’Ondee. August 27, 2020 at 10:50am
Emilie: Thanks a lot aurora and irem ! I used to wear l’heure bleue a few years ago, it’s been a long time since i’ve smelled it and maybe i’ll come back to it ! I’m also intrigued by your other suggestions and i’ll definitely give them a try. August 27, 2020 at 10:57am
Nina Z: Vivacious by Hiram Green is a beautiful violet fragrance that many people are comparing to Après L’Ondée. To me, it reads as a warmer fragrance, however, due to a strong carnation note. I don’t know where you are, but you can order a sample and/or bottle directly from Green’s website. August 27, 2020 at 11:36am
ninon: Ooh, I love Hiram Green and have been wondering about Vivacious. Could you say a bit more about it? I’ve only sniffed the current Apres L’Ondee edt and got nothing but sweetarts, so it’s not a strong/appealing referent for me. August 28, 2020 at 2:37am
Nina Z: Although others I know say Vivacious reminds them of Après L’Ondée, I don’t actually experience them as being similar, except for having strong violet notes. Vivacious to me is a warm and spicy violet (due to the carnation) that is rather bold, while Après L’Ondée is more cool and subtle. However, the violet note in Vivacious, though beautiful, is so prominent that I imagine only those who appreciate violet will enjoy this perfume. I wonder if maybe your “Sweetarts” experience has to do with violet as a candy flavor? In the end, of course, you should try it yourself and see! August 28, 2020 at 1:01pm
Ninon: Thank you, this is really helpful. I’m not a violet lover in general, so I will pass on Vivacious for now. I do love Hiram’s approach to flowers though–I hope he’s developing something around iris. August 28, 2020 at 8:51pm
Emilie: Thanks a lot, I just ordered a sample from Hiram Green website ! I will let you know if i like it. August 29, 2020 at 9:36am
Ninon: A kind reader here introduced me to my now favorite iris, Iris Bleu Gris. I so appreciate Victoria and this community!
Can anyone recommend interesting takes on white florals? I’m still looking for a complex lily and am always interested in gardenia and lilac. No vanilla or coconut please. Thanks so much! August 28, 2020 at 2:24am
Sebastian: If you’re interested in lilac and gardenia, a must-try is Puredistance Opardu. In fact, it is so much a must-try for these notes that I suppose you already know it.
Incidentally, I recommended Lys Méditerranée as a lily scent in another context last month. Cool green, slightly aequous, lily-dense, and absolutely vanilla-free I’m sure it qualifies as an interesting take. August 28, 2020 at 3:09am
Ninon: Thank you so much, Sebastian! Those are two of my favorites, though I sadly don’t get much gardenia from the Opardu. August 28, 2020 at 12:06pm
aurora: Arquiste Boutonnière No è is a very original, slightly masculine gardenia, no vanilla or coconut. August 28, 2020 at 12:32pm
ninon: I tried Arquiste Boutonnière No. 7 years ago and liked it…I will have to retest. I am one of the only people, I think, who loves Maria Candida Gentile Lady Day, but it’s no longer available (and projection was certainly faint). August 28, 2020 at 8:36pm
Sebastian: Boutonnière No. 7 sounds interesting, thanks for mentioning it. I’d certainly lie to try it. August 29, 2020 at 12:36pm
Sebastian: Well, to say the truth, I’d like to. August 29, 2020 at 12:37pm
aurora: No 7, sorry for the typo. Serge Lutens La Vierge de Fer is a unique fruity [pear] white lily. August 28, 2020 at 12:40pm
ninon: I struggle with fruit usually and many Serge Lutens as a result. I will seek this out though. August 28, 2020 at 8:37pm
Klaas: Hello Ninon, congratulations on finding Iris Bleu Gris! It is also my favorite iris (not that I know many….)
For interesting white florals, have you sampled any Dusita fragrances? There are some incredible floral scents in her portfolio……Fleur de Lalita, Melodie de l’Amour, La Douceur de Siam……the sample set is a good way to get to know the brand.
I really like quite a few of them (she has a knack for combinjng heavy duty ingredients into very transparant, water colored perfumes, most of them with a creamy finish). The only thing is that they don’t project very well from my skin. They fade into a whisper quite quickly, but oh my, the beauty of those whispers 😉
Happy search! September 2, 2020 at 5:31pm
Johaboha: Channel allure homme édition blanche smells like lemon cake to me… with additional freshness. To my nose it can easily work for men and women. August 28, 2020 at 11:09am
Barbara Lee: I have a selection of light citrusy colognes, green tea, Heeley’s Eugenie, MMM untitled and a couple of the Zara Emotions line. But I’m on the hunt for something different, more sophisticated and warm. I dislike more than i like! I don’t like the very sweet trends of the moment, but i find perfumes like Cristalle too cold ! Any suggestions Gladly accepted 🙂 i live in Ireland and have access to Boots. Otherwise itll be online shopping! August 29, 2020 at 3:36pm
aurora: You like citrus so maybe for fall a citrus definitely, do you like almond? Acqua di Parma Mandorlo di Sicilia is a favorite of mine in fall. It’s not very sweet to my nose but we’re all different when it comes to sweetness. Do you have other favorite notes? August 30, 2020 at 11:44am
Barbara Lee: Thank you for your reply. I see Acqua di Parma has a sample set on their website so I think i will give that a go! They all sound lovely😀 September 3, 2020 at 9:38am
Anouk: Hi Barbara, I think you could look into the Serge Lutens line. “La fille de Berlin” for example could be interesting. The base is similar to Jo Malones “Red Roses”, which is more of a citrusy rose cologne, but “La fille de Berlin” is a bit deeper and has warmth added through pepper notes. For even more warmth, you might try spice blends such as Lutens “Chergui” or “Five o’clock au gingembre”. August 30, 2020 at 4:54pm
Barbara Lee: Thank you! I’ll definitely look at those! September 3, 2020 at 9:39am
JD: Hi,
Just curious if anyone has tried the new scent by YSL…Libre? I love the design of the bottle but have not sampled it. Also Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Intense? I always thought the original was quite intense. Thank you scent friends for🥰 any & all of your replies.🌹🌎 August 30, 2020 at 12:23pm
Tami: I love Libre—It’s not a profoundly unique perfume, yet there’s something that really draws me to it. On me the lavender and orange notes are fresh and feminine, but pack a punch.
There’s a smaller travel spray available, if you want to try it before committing to the larger one. Also the YSL site often has special offers on sets of it. August 31, 2020 at 4:07pm
JD: Thank you, Tami…
Glad to hear some love for Libre.❤
I will look into a travel spray! September 3, 2020 at 7:35pm
Caryn: Hi everyone! I’m looking for a feminine niche orange blossom fragrance that is not too sweet. I’m familiar with Jo Malone and Elie Saab Le Parfum and JPG. I welcome your recommendations. Thanks so much! August 31, 2020 at 12:51am
aurora: Hi Caryn: My favorite orange blossom is Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger Neroli
Blanc EDP, so rich in natural ob, there used to be an Eau de Cologne too and an EDP intense, try them all; also Penhaligon’s Orange Blossom is a classic and Floris Chypress. The affordable line Fragonard has the very nice Fleur d’Oranger and there is now an intense version too. August 31, 2020 at 6:14am
piteault: Hi Emilie,
congrats on your perfect taste for Après L’Ondée;it’s achingly beautiful.I found Chamade had that lovely greenness about it & still love that in Gucci’s Mémoire D’Eau;L’HB is lovely but heavier,good luck with your quest,
Poppy August 31, 2020 at 5:46am
Susan: I am late to this column, so hope I might get a reply. And I am asking a question that I am sure has been asked a gazillion times before, namely: Is there ANY fragrance available today that captures the warm, deep, elegant beauty of “Deneuve”. Just asking…
And, on a side note, how did all you people acquire so much knowledge about perfumes? I’d love to understand more (a LOT more, because I know so little), but it seems very difficult , in some aspects, without actual in-person experience (e.g. “This is what bergamot smells like” , etc.) September 3, 2020 at 2:17am
Aurora: Hello Susan: Ah a replacement for Deneuve, it is mourned by many, I have no personal experience with it but another great green chypre is Jean-Louis Scherrer (not to be confused with Scherrer 2, a different perfume).
To become knowledgeable about perfume and recognize notes, watch Victoria’s excellent video, smell or even better acquire some essential oils, you will soon be able to tell them apart and then recognize them in perfumes. Eg. bergamot plays a main part in Shalimar. Hope this will help you a little bit. September 5, 2020 at 12:24pm
Susan: Thank you for your response! I did, in fact, wear Jean-Louis Scherrer many years ago (I’m 70, so have had a looong time to wear perfume), and liked it very much. (Sadly, just not quite as much as Deneuve.) Still, I remember it as being very feminine.
Also re learning about perfume – thanks for the direction on that, too. I did later stumble across Victoria’s video, which is full of useful info. Acquiring some essential oils is a good idea. I also wish – if I had any money, and if/when we might travel again – to go sometime to Lorenza Villoresi’s school. I had his fragrance Alumet, and liked it. https://www.lorenzovilloresi.it/html.aspx?page=accademia&lan=en September 6, 2020 at 1:19am
Aurora: Thank you Susan: It is a challenge to find a replacement fir a beloved perfume. I am so glad you are already familiar with Scherrer, it’s a gem, the EDP has become hard to find, I think the EDT is available on Fragrancenet still, but I woudn’t be surprised if Scherrer got discontinued just like Deneuve.
Another great green floral chypre budget friendly and very lovely is Jacomo Silences, many of us who comment love it in summer, Gerlain Chamade is also beautifully green early in its development with a warmer drydown. So glad you are interested by essential oils, I found it an inexpensive way to learn about perfume notes – and also, incidently, to make my own toner if you want to experiment (a few drops of lavender, geranium and incense in rosewater). Victoria’s videos are so informative. Best of luck in your perfume journey😀 September 6, 2020 at 6:48am
Aurora: And thank you for the link Susan, taking a class there would be a dream, and Florence is such a magical city. Hope you can go one dah. September 6, 2020 at 9:51am
Aurora: I meant videos on youtube, sorry for the typo. September 5, 2020 at 12:25pm
Rosey: Just noting that if you like gourmand fragrances, I recently came across Secret Genius by Pinrose. A sample arrived in a package I purchased, and it was so wonderful. I am looking forward to purchasing the bottle and hope it smells as good as the sample towelette did. It’s a little hard to find, even the store who sent me the sample didn’t have it when I went out to buy it. Totally worth the effort to find though, if you like sweet, gourmand fragrances. My favorites, to kind of gauge if we have the same tastes are The One by Dolce and Gabbana, Prada Candy Night, Hypnotic Posion by Dior (this one smells SO good to me) and Bon Bon by Viktor & Rolf. September 13, 2020 at 2:15pm