Recommend Me a Perfume : September 2022

Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors. Or you can just tell us what perfume you are wearing!

How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!

To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin, yarrow flowers

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166 Comments

  • Nenda Fadhilah: Hi,
    I would like advise on incense perfume. I love L’heure bleue EDT. The last incense perfume that I sorta like is Encens Flamboyant. Would appreciate your help.

    Thank you September 19, 2022 at 9:05am Reply

    • Ugo: A very elegant and light but recognisable incense is Cardinal by Heeley. Also La Liturgie des Heures by Jovoy is good. Aedes de Venustas did a lot of fragrances all with and incense note. Another smocky perfume with churchy vibes is Incenso delle chiese di Roma by Essenzialmente Laura. September 19, 2022 at 10:03am Reply

    • Danica: Amouage Imitation is incense, blackcurrant and dense tuberose, my friend said she smelled perfume and incense when I was wearing it. It’s got monster projection and longevity. September 19, 2022 at 3:07pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Nenda: I’m very fond of Encens Flamboyant, I want to recommend my other favorite, Etro Messe de Minuit, a damp churchy incense, lovely in summer too but it may have been recently discontinued; in her post Victoria talks about Comme des Garçons Incense series, do try Avignon if you haven’t yet. September 20, 2022 at 10:11am Reply

      • Lydia: I second the CdG incense series recommendation (I like Kyoto, Avignon, and Quarzazate).
        A new one I just discovered is Bella Freud’s Signature edp (incense, myrrh, and amber – perfect for fall.) September 22, 2022 at 9:40pm Reply

    • Tammie Holland: Unum Lavs. Most divine and heart stopping incense ever September 21, 2022 at 12:36am Reply

    • JulienFromDijon: “L’heure bleue” EDT with more incense?

      Short answer :
      – ridiculously expensive niche : “Baiser de Florence” by Ella K
      – in the mainstream : “Boucheron” by Boucheron
      – veering toward big classics : N°22 by Chanel, EDP or extrait
      – best niche for your buck : many Reminiscence offered at 35$ on discount sites ; trying some Goutal and searching them on Vinted or other second-hand site (“Songes in EDP” “Grand amour in EDP” etc.)
      And trying other perfumes inspired by pastries. Niche brands love natural flower extract, and incenses, so the choice is very large, and nice to try.

      Long answer

      Many perfumes have worked on this theme.
      Some versions of “L’heure bleue” have this almond and glazed sugar effect.
      Gourmand perfumes are in fashion since twenty years, those with the added candyfloss synthetic molecule.
      In the top notes, perfume makers can play with more natural jasmine, high quality ylang-ylang (melodious floralcy, “dragee” effect).
      In the basenotes, incense is a very niche-y playground, from direct frankincense (candied lemon effect), benjoin (proto vanilla effect), and myrrh (old apple, in a nice way, warmth and bittersweet).

      I’m sorry, I don’t have good example.
      Most recent niche is very expensive. The example are either sickening sweet, of weak for the price.
      By digressing a little, you can try hieratic classic masterpieces, or ones inspired from other sugared confection.

      The underwhelming expensive niche :
      – Ella K “Baiser de florence”
      It is the brief. It’s an almondy sugared iris, with extra frankincence and myrrh. My nose is quickly blind with it.
      (It does not improve much, over, say, the apple crumble basenotes accord of “Dior homme intense”)
      – Dior “Bois d’argent”
      – Bulgari’s recent “Allegra, Dolce estasi”
      It does that too, but is very weak.
      (Or the opposite. Bulgari’s “Le gemme, Erea”. It’s an uselessly expensive syrupy jasmine.)

      Best niche for your bucks :
      – Réminiscence’s perfumes at around 35€ on discount price, maybe “Rem” or “Dragée” ;
      – Trying Goutal, finding the one whose audacity suits you
      (and searching it on Vinted or other second-hand websites : “Songes EDP” (below), “Grand amour” (below), “Heure exquise” (Iris, transparente natural rose, santal, musks), “Vanille exquise”, etc. )
      – Kiss me intense by Nicolaï

      Hieratic classic masterpieces :
      – N°22 from Chanel, EDP and extrait
      It is a space rocket of scratchy aldehydes, soon rewarded by soothing, top notch, natural floral extracts : iris, ylang-ylang, jasmine, a bit of tuberose.
      The drydown adds raw incenses, dry and nice.
      – Songes in EDP from Annick Goutal
      It is a natural jasmine bomb, (and tiara flower, and ylang-ylang), with an icy camphoraous incense stage at a moment (near to “Passion” from the same grand).
      – Good vintage “Chamade”
      It has a lot of benjoin incense.
      – “Boucheron” by boucheron
      A bit of the aromatics herbs of vintage L’heure bleue (and a bit of basil), dry jasmine, with a nice and long-lasting incense and vanilla base accord.

      In the mainstream :
      – “Boucheron” by boucheron (above)
      – “Narciso” by Narciso Rogriguez, the white cubic bottle.
      It’s a very good mainstream jasmin, with a lactonic, milky, woody foundation. The strengh is excellent, and it is hard to fault.
      – Bulgari “Omnia” (the standard one)
      In my memory, it’s close to Narciso, but with more almond tones.
      – Stealing “Habit rouge EDT” from the men.
      Under the cologne orange flower top notes, there is a balsamic and biscuity transition, with the semi-oriental basenotes.

      Other pastries :
      – apple crumble
      Trying “Dior homme intense”, to test if the current version has always the “apple crumble” basenotes.
      It comes from the iris, myrrh, vanilla, cocoa, carrot seed, and whoknowswhat in the late stage.
      “J’adore l’or” also swaps its rose and jasmin combo, to a milk chocolate drydown, laced with incense (benjoin?).

      – sugar-coated apple
      “Grand amour” in EDP by Goutal.
      Natural roses oriented toward their fresh apple freshness, ylang-ylang, benjoin, myrrh, and the spotless vanilla balsamic base of most Goutal perfumes.

      – hint of loukhoum and powdered sugar :
      “Sweet redemption” from by Kilian (powdered sugar, orange flower, and myrrh) ;
      Discontinued “La traversée du bosphore” by L’artisan parfumeur (a hint of apple, leather, and dried fruits in the mix) ;
      “Rahat Loukhoum” by Serge Lutens (a bomb of powderiness, vulgar but grandiose).

      – nougat
      Dior’s “Mitzah” is a falsely savage amber at the beginning, spicy incensy and smoky, but ending smelling like nougat and powdered vanilla sugar, because of the “ambre 83” base.

      Many perfumes rely on tonka beans, or the coumarine synthetic counterpart, for their powderiness.
      I’m waiting for the release of a Shalimar flanker “millésime tonka”. Maybe it’s worth a try? September 24, 2022 at 1:54am Reply

      • Nenda Fadhilah: Cheers,
        I have a plan to buy Chanel no 22 also a vintage Chamade is on my favorite.

        I’ll take note your suggestions and find it September 24, 2022 at 2:10am Reply

  • perstare: Some new notable discoveries:

    Floris’ Platinum 22—a lovely Iris wrapped in a comforting black currant. If you appreciate Dior Homme Intense, you will certainly enjoy this.

    Matiere Premiere’s Crystal Saffron—a powerful spicy dose of Greek Saffron on a clean everlasting musk. This lasted a week on my test strip. Waiting for my bottle to arrive. September 19, 2022 at 9:26am Reply

    • Zazie: Congrats on your MP Crystal Saffron!!!
      I haven’t tried it – yet (sounds great, must remedy that), but I looove the line, so wonderfully curated, with a distinctive, rich bold style.
      And I love brands that sell full sample sets.
      If you are not sold at Sephora and are confident about your lineup, that’s what you should do.
      you inspired me to pull out my radical rose bottle today. That one also has a lovely saffron-rose note, with that MP richness that is perfect for fall. September 20, 2022 at 3:15am Reply

    • Debi Sen Gupta: A coincidence or the result of lucky scents promotion campaign, I was looking at MPs Radical Rose and added the 6ml to my cart yesterday. The full sized is too expensive for me, wish they had an intermediate size like a 30ml. September 20, 2022 at 6:38am Reply

    • Aurora: Thank you perstare! I wasn’t aware of the new Floris and I love DHI. September 20, 2022 at 10:14am Reply

  • Yuri: Recommend best sandalwood perfumes, soft, milky like a real Mysore santal. Please no Serge Lutens. September 19, 2022 at 9:42am Reply

    • Ugo: It’s the same recommendation I just asked for. I don’t like Lutens like you. I recommend you Sandalo by Etro and Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie by Creed on Sandalo Mysore by Spezieria Palazzo Vecchio Firenze or 08 Intrigant Patchouli by Pierre Guillaume that has a beautiful creamy note of Indian sandalwood paired with patchouly. September 19, 2022 at 10:07am Reply

    • kayliz: Santal du Pacifique by Perris Monte Carlo is soft and milky, at least in the EdP version (sadly, the extrait leans more floral). September 19, 2022 at 12:26pm Reply

      • Yuri: Yes, have it. Made the right way September 19, 2022 at 12:28pm Reply

    • Kamila: Yves Rocher Voile d’Ocre September 19, 2022 at 4:12pm Reply

  • Ugo: Hello I would like to find an INDIAN SANDALWOOD fragrance with a creamy and soft woody nuance like Sandalo by Etro or ambery and a little flowery like Jasmine Imperatrice Eugenie by Creed or spicy like Santal Rouge by Il Profvmo. I don’t like the Australian type, it’s too harsh and strong. I don’t mind a little bit of skankiness. I don’t like the sandalwoods by Lutens (Majuscule and Blanc) and I hate cedarwood. Thank you, I know it’s a hard task 😂😅 September 19, 2022 at 9:50am Reply

    • Shivani: I recommend Trayee by Neela Vermiere or Samsara by Guerlain. They are both floral with heaps of creamy Indian sandalwood.

      On a separate note, I do love Santal Majuscule but I would not classify it as a sandalwood fragrance. The rose and cocoa notes dominate everything else on my skin. September 30, 2022 at 12:38pm Reply

  • Lauren: Hello! I’m looking for a warm and cozy fall scent. I am sensitive to headaches so nothing too cloying or heavy. I love the notes of almonds and heliotrope. I don’t love incense or animalic notes. Some favorite perfumes: Prada Amande, Mizensir Tres Cher, Memo Sintra, Jo Malone Nectarine Blossom, and BDK Gris Charnel! September 19, 2022 at 10:34am Reply

    • PrincessTonk: Van Cleef Extraordinaire Rêve d’Ylang and Parfums Nicolai Vanille Tonka. Victoria has a beautiful review of Vanille. cozy, gorgeous perfumes. September 19, 2022 at 10:57am Reply

      • PrincessTonk: Also for heliotrope, Nicolai Kiss Ne Tender. September 19, 2022 at 11:02am Reply

        • AndreaR: I would like to second Kiss Me Tender. October 3, 2022 at 1:54am Reply

      • Christine Kalleeny: I have been wanting to sample Vanille Tonka and was wondering how would you characterize it? I’ve read reviews in which it has been compared to Shalimar, yet, rather than another iteration of Shalimar, I am looking for something that indeed does have vanilla and tonka in it as well as incense. September 19, 2022 at 12:04pm Reply

        • PrincessTonk: It is NOT like Shalimar at all in my opinion unless someone is tangentially referred by the bright citrus:vanilla combo at first. I love it and found Victoria’s Bois d J review spot on. It is really comfy— which for me, Shalimar the Diva is not! September 19, 2022 at 10:43pm Reply

    • Ugo: If you’re looking for a cozy warm scent I recommend you some soft amber like Ambre by Reminiscence or Ambra by Etro that makes also a marvellous “Heliotrope”. Another good and comfy fragrance is L’Ambre de Marveilles by Hermes. I also find very pleasing and tender Royal Bain de Caron, flowery with a touch of vanilla. September 19, 2022 at 11:11am Reply

    • Charlotte: Hi Lauren, not sure it quite fits the brief for ‘warm and cozy’, but I really like Vanille Exquise by Annick Goutal; it’s got a beautiful dry, woody almond note (not sure how you feel about woods?) and it’s certainly not heavy or cloying. At the other end of the sweetness spectrum (and perhaps you might find it cloying) is Etat Libre d’Orange Like This, a lovely warm and comforting ginger and heliotrope that smells a bit like pumpkin pie, perfect for fall.

      Have you tried Cornubia by Penhaligon’s? I had a brief love affair with this one but went off it, I think because I found it cloying. Could be worth a try though as it’s very heliotrope-heavy! Also very warm with amber but freshened with orange and neroli. September 19, 2022 at 12:04pm Reply

    • Christine Kalleeny: I recommend Kiss me Intense by Patricia de Nicolai….amazingly delicious gourmand but in my view, not too sweet, thanks to the floral and bitter almond notes. It really is delightful to wear. It reminds me of Jordan almonds but it’s so much more than that. September 19, 2022 at 12:07pm Reply

    • Janet: Kenzo Amour is soft and cozy, nice for cool weather. Heliotrope is one of its main notes. There is vanilla in the dry down. Victoria’s beautiful 2006 review mentions incense, but I can’t detect it on myself. I don’t find it cloying or too sweet, just soft and very easy to wear. September 19, 2022 at 2:57pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: If you like heliotrope, I’m really enjoying Miller Harris’ Violet Ida this fall. It is a soft floral with heliotrope and iris. Others have recommended another fall favorite of mine, Hermes’ Ambre des Merveilles. Like This, the scent Tilda Swinton created with Etat Libre d’Orange, has heliotrope but its not as dominant as it is in Violet Ida; Like This is very warm, cozy, good for fall. I’m also enjoying La Fenice, from Merchant of Venice, which has heliotrope, almond blossom, vanilla. tpnka bean, and other notes. It’s very pretty, and I find it also warm and soft. September 19, 2022 at 7:19pm Reply

    • Amanda M: Hi Lauren.
      Try Heliotrope Blanc by L.T.Piver. Almonds & heliotrope.
      Lots of positive reviews on Fragrantica to read! 😊 September 20, 2022 at 1:42am Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Lauren: More recommendations, Acqua di Parma Mandorlo di Sicilia is a bright almond with citrus and anis, it’s light and not cloying to my nose, Reminiscence Héliotrope and Dragée too are good and affordable, Dragée is a floral almond, do try them if you haven’t but I don’t know if you might find them too sweet.

      Penhaligon’s Cornubia was a reference floral heliotrope and a good recommendation but it has been discontinued several years ago. September 20, 2022 at 11:38am Reply

    • Liz: You might like Five O’Clock au Gingembre by Serge Lutens. It has top notes of bergamot like Earl Grey tea and a lovely, gentle spiced drydown. It wears close to the skin and isn’t a ‘loud’ perfume so unlikely to set off a headache. I live it at this time of year, like wearing a cashmere shawl! September 27, 2022 at 1:46pm Reply

  • katherine x: Coromandel – one of the Chanel Exclusifs/exclusive is warm and cozy – woody. Another fall recc is Cartier Baise vole sweet floral vanilla. September 19, 2022 at 12:22pm Reply

  • connie: Hello, first time poster long time reader, I love unique perfumes like Fracas and Encre Noir or Ostara, but every time I try to find another one I end up smelling like an old church lady! I find the classics to have been reformulated into an amalgam of old lady smells! I want special! Unique! HELP?! September 19, 2022 at 12:41pm Reply

    • Sunflowers: Oh please! Do stop with the ageist and highly offensive ‘old lady’ and ‘old church lady’ comments.
      There are many more descriptive terms to use instead of these, that manage to convey what you are saying, without being offensive. ☹️ September 20, 2022 at 1:47am Reply

      • Marianne: Thank you. September 20, 2022 at 7:47am Reply

      • diana: Thank you much September 20, 2022 at 8:06am Reply

    • kayliz: One perfume that suggests itself straight away is Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens. Houses to try include Parfums Nicolaï, Papillon Artisan Perfumes and the Exclusifs line by Chanel. September 20, 2022 at 4:36am Reply

      • connie hill: Yeah but it’s MY experience and I guess I will say how it feels TO ME! What is this? Twitter?! September 21, 2022 at 1:51pm Reply

      • connie hill: Thanks sooo much! sounds like a solid plan! And helpful, not “judgy”

        xo September 21, 2022 at 1:52pm Reply

      • connie hill: Kayla,

        I sure appreciate your thoughtful and helpful answer!

        xo

        connie September 21, 2022 at 1:56pm Reply

    • Marianne: You may like to try Sisley’s Eau de Campagne, created in 1974, still nothing like it … like a wild, intense and earthy vegetable and herb garden. September 20, 2022 at 9:02am Reply

      • connie hill: Dear Marianne,

        Sounds perfect!

        xo

        Connie September 21, 2022 at 1:58pm Reply

        • Marianne: That’s great! There have been some really interesting sounding perfumes on this thread that may well be right for you. It’s an adventure. I can’t explain why scent has entranced me since childhood but that’s how it is.
          Have you tried books about the subject? They can be helpful too. And there are far more knowledgeable people on this site than me to guide you around good books. September 21, 2022 at 5:32pm Reply

          • connie: This site in general has been highly educational for me! My first perfume was Youth Dew and I hated it! It did smell like Church Ladies to me at 17! ( so sorry to offend u snowflakes!) I deal in antiques and have recently started bidding on old perfumes at auctions. It’s fun and cheaper that buying something i may dislike for $100+ BTW I am over 70 myself so… September 21, 2022 at 5:41pm Reply

            • Marianne: It’s a lovely site. Victoria has managed to create and share, through her charm, depth, insightful knowledge and impeccable style. So many fine people who generously share their knowledge and experience. Quite a few names that are unfamiliar to me on this thread as well, opening up new ideas. September 21, 2022 at 6:06pm Reply

            • Karen A: Connie, this site is a refuge from name calling and offensive comments. There’s plenty of that on other sites. Victoria and all of the people who have been here for years, and many new comers, value this as much as the thoughtful and insightful posts and comments.

              If name calling is part of your normal writing and what you enjoy, then really there are so many other websites to visit. Maybe some of them even post on perfumes but probably not on travel, books, history with intelligence and knowledge, as an be found on BdJ. September 22, 2022 at 8:22am Reply

              • Helen: Thank you. I am old, and used to be a Church lady. Aging is a gift many do not receive. As a Church lady I fed numerous hungry people and, I think, did a great deal of good.
                I enjoy perfume, and do not feel any fragrance I wear is demeaned by my being old or in Church. September 22, 2022 at 10:38am Reply

              • connie: And Karen?
                I have been on this site for I’ll bet 10 years now? You need to check yourself! Sit down with a cookie and a glass of milk and refrain from judging other people …”karen”. To just say nothing is always best. And Helen? I will list all my good deeds at the next revival! Not here. Seriously!? September 23, 2022 at 4:28pm Reply

                • connie: BTW girls I am OUT! This has become just like a Twitter feed! Shame on you! September 23, 2022 at 4:30pm Reply

                  • Victoria: Hi Connie, I agree with a very thoughtful comment by Notturno. I’m sorry that your comment didn’t receive the reaction you expected, but the term “old lady perfume” has been so misused and it doesn’t sound right. Many women find it unpleasant and even derogatory. Plus, I personally don’t know what an old lady perfume smells like anymore, since most older women I encounter smell of Si, Chance and other popular fragrances. For this reason, it’s a bit difficult to give a good recommendation to your query. Still, I think that you might want the kind of incense fragrance that is sweeter, with more vanilla or balsamic notes, rather than anything too dry and woody. Have you tried Ormonde Jayne Tolu? That might be a good option. September 24, 2022 at 5:18am Reply

                    • connie: Why thank you for caring! I did not see a comment by Notturno, darn it! I was looking for a thoughtful answer and did not mean to stir a hornets nest of nasty! So thank you very much! My mom just passed and all of her perfumes made me sad, she was 91 and I think that is old?! September 24, 2022 at 10:23am

                    • connie: And inspite of all the judgey nasty cracks by a few, many answers have been very helpful! THANKS to those dedicated perfume lovers! God Bless! September 24, 2022 at 10:28am

                    • connie: Unique perfumes like Fracas and Encre Noir or Ostara, these are my “go to’s” today can anyone suggest similar scents? (is this better?)

                      Connie September 24, 2022 at 10:37am

                    • Victoria: That’s much more precise and helpful. I still stand by my Tolu recommendation. September 25, 2022 at 6:54am

            • My1stGradeTeacher: Lol. I noticed on fragrantica.com it’s not uncommon to describe a vintage perfume as old (church) lady, esp. gen-z types saying they don’t want to smell like grandma or even mom. I remember one such gal saying Hermes Calèche smelled like inside the leathery powder purse of her church-going grandma lol. September 22, 2022 at 11:25pm Reply

              • Sebastian: When I am new to an established community (that often happens, I travel a lot), I observe their customs, adapt my behavior accordingly and try not to offend them.

                Perhaps it’s a generation thing, as you have noted. As may be the choice of nicknames, I suppose.

                As we are all sharing a common interest here, I keep an open mind. I don’t believe anyone on this blog intends an insult. Some would classify me as an old white man. Like Helen, I feel that does not reflect on the perfumes I like or recommend. (And I sometimes recommend ones I do not like, if they are appropriate to the request.) September 23, 2022 at 7:51am Reply

              • connie: 1st grade teacher,

                Yep! At least you understand the reference! I like to use a short hand in my convos to cut to the imagination of my child-like soul. That’s when we are most aware! Sorry again to all who don’t agree but I am my own person! You do you, bless you! September 23, 2022 at 4:20pm Reply

                • Aurora: Hello Connie: Have you tried Bottega Veneta, a light leather?When I tried it I found it both modern and classic. September 26, 2022 at 12:43pm Reply

                  • connie: Not yet! THANK YOU!!! As I get these great recommendations I am ordering samples of each so YEAH! September 26, 2022 at 12:56pm Reply

                  • connie: As I get these great recommendations I am ordering samples of each so YEAH!

                    Thanks Aurora! September 26, 2022 at 1:02pm Reply

                • My1stGradeTeacher: Connie,

                  I bet u were a hip & happenin lady during the 60s-70s! Do u remember perfumes from that era pre-77ish? My 1st grade teacher wore a perfume with great sillage. (Already tried Rive Gauche, Cristalle, Chamade from BdJ recc’s/ideas) & tried other popular ones. The only familiarity I detected so far is something from drydown of Private Collection. Anyway please drop me a line IF any ideas. September 29, 2022 at 10:40pm Reply

                  • connie: Thanks Doll!

                    You betcha! more the 70s but I did drive PAST Woodstock in ’69 w my buddies coming back from the Cape because I was afraid to get in trouble with my parents car! Course it was a Ford town and country so we would have been laughed at! Good times! Stay Cool Always! September 30, 2022 at 6:16pm Reply

    • Nina Z: I’m so sorry you lost your mother! When my mom died, I couldn’t bear to smell her perfume because it was too painful. So I gave it away. Now, I’m sorry I did that. I still can’t bear to wear it, but I like to sniff it now and then. She wore Magie Noire, a perfume that smells both beautiful and from a different era.

      If that’s what’s going on with you, for the future, it’s more helpful to say it that way, that you want a perfume that doesn’t smell like what your mom wore and then list the perfumes she wore. September 25, 2022 at 12:53pm Reply

  • Irina: Hello everyone!
    Please recommend me the best perfume with iris/orris being the star of the show. I don’t like retro and animalic notes. Thank you very much! September 19, 2022 at 12:50pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: You might like Tiffany & Co, both the original and the Intense version. I love them both, and they have a lot of iris. They’re both quite floral, not animalic or aldehydic. You can read my review of Tiffany & Co. Intense here: https://scentsandsensibilities.co/2018/12/09/scent-sample-sunday-tiffany-co-intense/; and the review has a link to my earlier review of Tiffany & Co. September 19, 2022 at 7:22pm Reply

    • la_ninon: Xerjoff Irisss is my favorite, along with Fredereic Malle Iris Poudre, but that may be too retro for you. September 21, 2022 at 9:11pm Reply

    • Lydia: Hi Irina,
      So Iris Intense by Montale is a quite strong, carrot-y iris. I enjoyed it.
      I love Atelier Cologne’s Silver Iris. (I’m not sure if it’s been discontinued, though.) September 23, 2022 at 12:36am Reply

    • Shivani: Hi Irina, you may want to try Iris des champs by Houbigant. Its quite clean, not rooty or animalic at all. September 30, 2022 at 12:33pm Reply

  • Adam: I’m excited by a lot of aromatic fougeres/chypres, usually leaning vintage, but my tastes can be very finicky. Looking for something not too barbershoppy, soapy, leathery (though i love leather), or old-fashioned (I call it “Daddy”). Maybe a modern take? Thanks. September 19, 2022 at 1:48pm Reply

    • Janet: In that category I like Gray Flannel? It’s not leathery or soapy, and I always thought the violet note was interesting. And the current formulation isn’t expensive. September 19, 2022 at 3:03pm Reply

      • Adam: (Janet–Left my reply in the main body of the thread) September 19, 2022 at 3:15pm Reply

    • Figuier: I love Grey Flannel! A modern, darker and denser take is Mona di Orio’s Violette Fumee. V much unisex, and impeccably balanced. September 19, 2022 at 3:39pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Perhaps Christian Dior‘s „Cuir Cannage“? September 19, 2022 at 3:48pm Reply

    • Sebastian: Fougère Emeraude (Les Indémodables). Steps in the foot tracks of Rive gauche p. H. while being somewhat sweeter. The aromatic touch of clary sage is rather understated. That’s the refined side of things.

      On the extremely effusive side of things, when I think fougère I think lavender, and when I think lavender I think Bogue MEM. Not really a fougère for lack of oakmoss and coumarin, but you get enough replacement for that, trust me 😉 The non plus ultra in non-sweet, animalic, not too soapy lavender scents.

      In the same effusive vein, but chypre rather than fougère, Amouage Gold Man is extremely hairy chested in the manner of the 80s, while being superbly balanced and non-retro.

      Back to refinement. Le Galion Essence Noble is, well, essential to the chypre aficionado. It’s got sage and a bit of leather. Nomen est omen.

      If you are into foresty and resinous, try Young Hearts (Bruno Acampora). It won an Arts & Olfaction Award a while back. It has wonderfully naturally forest notes besides all the classic chypre ingredients without being classical at all.

      Finally, Azemour Les Oarngers (Parfum d’Empire) and Afternoon of a Faun (Etat Libre d’Orange), although being neither chypre nor fougère, would probably be agreeable to many with a liking for those genres. September 20, 2022 at 9:31am Reply

      • Adam: Great list, thanks Sebastian! September 20, 2022 at 5:05pm Reply

    • la_ninon: If you can find it, Parfums de Nicolai Vie de Chateau is wonderful. September 21, 2022 at 9:09pm Reply

  • Kimberly: Hi Adam, Guerlain is supposed to be releasing Shalimar Millesime Tonka in Oct 2022. The reviews are saying it leans unisex with a fougere accord. It will be a limited edition so keep watching your local Guerlain website for its release. I know I will be. 🙂 September 19, 2022 at 2:00pm Reply

    • Adam: Thanks Kimberly, I’ll keep an eye out. September 19, 2022 at 3:11pm Reply

  • Adam: Ha, I happen to have a current obsession with Grey Flannel (trying to rediscover my much younger scent memory of it). I’ve tried various vintage formulations, but haven’t tried the current (except for the Eau de GF, which was not even close). I’ll check it out, thanks. September 19, 2022 at 3:10pm Reply

    • Kamila: Hello,
      Recommend me a salty fragrance in the style of “autumn walk on the beach”, thank you very much! September 19, 2022 at 5:03pm Reply

      • Aurora: Hello Kamila: If you can (it’s discontinued) try Miller Harris Fleur de Sel, another in production this time is l’Artisan Parfumeur Un Air de Bretagne, it wasn’t for me but you might like it. September 20, 2022 at 12:06pm Reply

        • Kamila: Thank you very much for the suggestion! September 21, 2022 at 3:37am Reply

    • Marianne: Have you tried Chanel Pour Monsieur? A beautiful chypre, very subtle and soft. Well behaved, it may be rather conservative to your tastes. Very like no.19 which could also be worth a try for a little more adventure. And Dioressence which I’ve recently rediscovered, along with Diorissimo which in its current formulation has resulted in my forgiveness to the house for changing earlier formulas, and is still all about flowers and honey although now somehow ‘virtual’ rather than natural, but that’s another story in regard to your request, Adam! September 20, 2022 at 8:13am Reply

    • Marianne: Another train of thought, Adam … have you tried Floris Vert Fougere? It must be the fougere of all fougeres, shockingly severe, bitter even to my taste. I’m glad to have tried it but would never buy it, too severe for me but very interesting.
      I also loved going through a whole bottle of Floris no. 89, very refreshing and a touch astringent but not barbershop? You decide! It did leave a beautiful, soft drydown on clothes, scarves. September 20, 2022 at 8:30am Reply

      • Adam: Thanks, Marianne! All new to me, looking forward to trying them out. September 20, 2022 at 10:34am Reply

        • Marianne: Oh! And Floris Turnbull & Asser, love its clean, fresh, yet soft unisex scent (barbershop? 🤔😎Possibly my favourite Floris so far. And their Jermyn Street, clean, fresh and a little more edgy than T&A. September 21, 2022 at 6:39pm Reply

      • Sebastian: The unusual thing about Vert Fougère is that it is a smoky fougère. Very intersting indeed!

        But I suppose that in the department of extremely green fougères there is nothing to top Beaufort’s Fathom V: heavy lily, lively mint, dry greenery, lots of grass, bitter, tart, earthy, a tiny bit smoky. Such vibrant energy! I went through two decants quickly, after which I speedily proceeded to procure a bottle. September 20, 2022 at 6:44pm Reply

        • Marianne: Wow, your description is intriguing. I’ll investigate the perfume house. And, I’ll get out my decant of Vert Fougere to pay it more attention, I hadn’t noticed the smokiness. September 21, 2022 at 7:17am Reply

          • Sebastian: Beaufort as a perfume house is not one of my favorites. I feel they are a bit too ostentatiously niche-y and needlessly trying to be provocative. But Fathom V, well, that’s quite another thing… September 21, 2022 at 7:30am Reply

            • Marianne: Thank you Sebastian. I’d never heard of Beaufort before. A quiet evening investigating on my iPad revealed whole new horizons, with scents and products for men as the main theme. I’ve always enjoyed ‘masculine’ perfumes so it was an interesting experience. I live in a small city on an island but am soon to visit a ‘teeming metropolis’ and plan to look up Beaufort. September 21, 2022 at 5:44pm Reply

              • Sebastian: I envy you the adventure! I hope you’ll discover many exciting things.

                (It’s been quite some time that I’ve been to a teeming metropolis.) September 21, 2022 at 6:27pm Reply

  • Ewan: Wearing an oil perfume of Magnolia, LInalool wood,Benzoin, Ylang and Lavender, Quite chirpy at first but calms itself into a flowery woodiness.

    Are those really Yarrow flowers? September 20, 2022 at 12:59am Reply

  • keepitsunny: I made the mistake of stopping by Hermes and spraying Ambre Narguile- instant love! I have never smelled anything so good. Most ambers don’t smell good on my skin; I can’t do patchouli, and I find many ambers are too boozy, smoky or treacly sweet. This was so well blended I couldn’t stop smelling my wrist.
    Please, is there anything like Ambre Narguile that isn’t ruinously expensive? September 20, 2022 at 5:22am Reply

    • Aurora: Hello: Kilian Angels’ Share is similar, it’s sold in a smaller (50ml) bottle than Hermes AN but I don’t think it’s a much better deal, Kilian is quite pricey. Hermes does travel sprays, that might be an option for you? September 20, 2022 at 12:19pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Try buying it on Ebay. You ought to be able to get it cheaper! September 22, 2022 at 11:29am Reply

  • Marianne: Yesterday I stopped by the local Chanel counter to see if I could solve the mystery of why Cristalle didn’t resonate for me as it used to. A moment of clarity; I tried the Eau du toilette instead of the usual Edp and there it was! The sparkling, green, yet velvety and with a touch of basil scent that was impressed on my scent memory. Very different to the Edp which seems tame in comparison. Quite good staying power as well. Hooray! September 20, 2022 at 8:00am Reply

    • Sebastian: Cristalle is one of the very few perfumes that I associate with being feminine, perhaps from having known women who wore it. For that reason, it made me quite happy that I found a similar (in character, not smell) green-herbal-velvety sparkle in Paris-Édimbourg. September 23, 2022 at 1:57pm Reply

      • Marianne: Thank you Sebastian, I’m truly inspired by your suggestion. It’s at the top of my list to investigate during my visit to a big city next month. I love fresh, woods and green with mystery wrapped around them. Also I’m intrigued by the inclusion of vanilla at its heart, this may provide the mystery … I’m no perfume expert, but find its addition a surprise. September 23, 2022 at 7:46pm Reply

  • joan ramirez: Sad to say, many of my favorites have been discontinued.
    Since becoming a suspense author, I tend toward fragrances that have a hint of suspense and intrigue. I’d love feedback on how you feel about this concept for a fragrance, especially a new one. September 20, 2022 at 10:32am Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Joan: Congratulations on being a suspense author. I love an element of surprise in a fragrance too, the civet in Jicky for eg. The most mysterious perfume I own is vintage l’Heure Bleue. September 20, 2022 at 12:58pm Reply

  • Amy: For creamy sandalwoods, I highly recommend RisingPhoenixPerfume over at Etsy. Everything he offers is spectacular. September 20, 2022 at 10:49am Reply

    • Sebastian: Yes! And spectacularly expensive. If you’re no sandalwood expert and don’t insist on real wood, or even Mysore provenance, synthetic substitutes do work quite well.

      For example, here’s a fresh & elegant modern chypre with nice creamy sandalwood I encountered recently: Sandalwood Sacré by Le Jardin Retrouvé.

      But of course, Rising Phoenix is in another league. September 21, 2022 at 7:21am Reply

      • Amy: I’ll give that a try. Thanks for sharing! September 21, 2022 at 8:15am Reply

  • leathermountain: Helping a friend return to perfume after her favorite was reformulated (so long ago that we can’t remember what it was). We’ve identified the following criteria.

    Spicy, sultry, not at all sweet. Not inescapably masculine. Intimate sillage and need not last forever. Non-gourmand, non-fruity, any flowers need to be subtle. Nothing that smells like retro cosmetics (eg lipstick or talcum powder). Not aldehydic. No sharp points such as prominent lemon, galbanum, or lavender. Resins and tobacco and amber are great but can’t be sweet. Woods are great but can’t be sharp. Incense can be present but not dominant (copal and palo santo are better than frankincense). No prominent patchouli. Musks are OK but not soapy and if animalic it should be an undertone and no more. Bonus points for smoke, leather, moss, earth, and vetiver. Extra bonus points for sandalwood. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts! September 20, 2022 at 2:40pm Reply

    • Sebastian: You do know your requirements 😉
      But darn, the only fragrances that come to my mind are discontinued: Patou pour homme and Gianfranco Ferré for men.

      Among classics maybe Azzarro (but perhaps too sharp and inescapably masculine) or Equipage (but that’s got aldehydes) or Polo (but fresh and slightly sweet).

      And none of these are sultry.

      Especially the combination of sultry with neither sweet nor floral is very difficult to find these days. Sweet sultriness abounds (e. g. Moth by Zoologist), floral sultriness, too, often with tuberose and/or jasmin (e. g. Moon Bloom by Hiram Green.)

      Dropping the sultriness, there are options like Hiram Green’s Vetiver, which smells like Highland Malt to me (orange zest and raisins, ginger, smoke, light sweetness, peat, wood).

      Perhaps the best recommendation I can come up with is Memoir Woman (Amouage), and yes, I think woman rather than man, because it is sultrier, more mysterious, less bitter. There are noticeable rose and white flowers, but well integrated.

      Boy, this is really difficult. I hope someone comes up with better ideas. I think I myself would like to wear a scent like the one you are looking for. September 20, 2022 at 4:46pm Reply

    • Aurora: Neela Vermeire Trayee maybe, it’s not overly sweet, is spicy, has a sandalwood base. September 22, 2022 at 7:57am Reply

      • Sebastian: That is interesting. Do you really not find it sweet? I found it very much so, green-sweet with lots of vanilla, creamy-oudy in almost a gourmand way, with a somewhat banana-like fruitiness thrown in together with incongruent smoke. Couldn’t stand it. But others rave. September 22, 2022 at 3:05pm Reply

        • Aurora: Hello Sebastian: So many perfumes these days are so sweet that I find Trayee very restrained and not overly sweet. I reread my notes on Trayee and it says it smells like a souk, so very spicy. Perfume perception variety is very entertaining, I love the idea of banana leaf 😀 and will keep it in mind when I retry it. September 23, 2022 at 4:56am Reply

    • Aurora: I’ve thought of another perfume, Frédéric Malle Noir Epices, it is a dry spice fest, it might suit. September 27, 2022 at 12:08pm Reply

  • TraceyK: I miss three very hard to find fragrances….Etro’s Shaal Nur and Messe di Minuit and L’artisan Parfumers “Voleur de Roses”. Any suggestions for something very similar to any of them? September 20, 2022 at 4:56pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Tracey: For Voleur de Rose you might try Terry de Gunzburg Rouge Nocturne, a rose and patchouli scent like VdR. September 21, 2022 at 8:44pm Reply

  • Jonathan: Could anyone recommend me an alternative to Hermes’ Après la Mousson? It has too many white musks which make me sneeze.

    I love everything else about it. I haven’t encountered any other starchy, vegetal ginger compositions. Thank you. September 20, 2022 at 9:25pm Reply

  • Michele Brown: Michele: Hi Lauren,My granddaughter, who’s name is also Lauren, had to stop wearing fragrances because of migraines she starting having more frequently when she became pregnant with her 1st child. Then she found “Boyfriend” by Kate Walsh, an American actress. The notes the website posted for the eau de parfum are: dark plumb, myrrh, night blooming Jasmine, benzoin tears and vanilla woods. I haven’t smelt it as yet, but hope to when we see each other the last of October. It may work well for you. I hope so. 🦋 September 20, 2022 at 11:47pm Reply

  • Tammie Holland: Dear Victoria, firstly I would like to express my gratitude for the beauty and content of of your blog these past several years. I was immediately smitten by your content, knowledge and wit. I am so happy you were able to recover it after the hack at the beginning of the war in your homeland. I pray for this global gem. I love your photo of Yarrow. I’ve never seen this flower first hand. Your style is recognizable! So clean!. I would LOVE to hear your musings on scent, composition and allergy. Thank you for your inspiration and fortitude 🍐 September 21, 2022 at 12:23am Reply

  • la_ninon: It’s getting harder and harder to find vintage Niki de St Phalle, which I know is singular, but would love recommendations from others who know and adore this scent. Dark, earthy green floral chypres (without sharpness or fruit) are my favorite genre–I also like “forest floor” scents that are less structured. Tysm! September 21, 2022 at 2:09pm Reply

  • OnWingsofSaffron: Hi everyone, it seems Chanel has issued a new extrait: 15ml of Sycomore. Has anyone tried this pure perfume, and how does it compare to the edp? Thanks September 22, 2022 at 11:31am Reply

    • Sebastian: I have not tried this myself. But I have heard it said that the perfume is more powdery and less earthy than the EdP. September 22, 2022 at 3:54pm Reply

  • Notturno 7: Dear Connie, no need to disappear from here. Sorry that your first posting here went this way! 😅
    I know what you meant by old lady perfume description.
    But I think we ladies do each other a disservice using this term.
    Maybe a term ‘vintage perfume notes’ would do?
    Why do we talk about men who wear the same vintage perfumes differently?
    I never heard anyone describe gentlemen who wear vintage perfumes in same derivative terms
    as ‘old man perfumes’!!
    Actually a man wearing Youth Dew or Vol de Nuit, might be considered a very sexy man in MHO 😉. Just trying to make you laugh and look at this from another angle.
    I’m a teacher too, just trying to make everyone feel good here.
    I love Ostara and Fracas. Fracas is strong and powerful so you might like Carnal Flower, Fleur de Cassie, Bûcheron, Coromandel…. Check out Victoria’s list of fragrances and note descriptions on this website. They’re really fun to read.
    Happy weekend 🌹 September 24, 2022 at 5:03am Reply

    • Nina Z: Your comment is very kindly said. But I actually find the term “vintage perfume notes” confusing. What era are we talking about? And which notes or “vibe” from that era exactly are you averse to? For a while, I think when using that unfortunate term people were referring to classic chypres or powdery fragrances. But now I’m starting to think for some it refers to something in 80s fragrances. So perhaps a good way to say this would be to actually list some of the perfumes you know you don’t like as examples of the “retro vibe” you’re trying to avoid. September 24, 2022 at 5:13pm Reply

      • Notturno7: Dear Nina, I’m not averse to any vintage perfumes. I actually love those. I love the richness, quality and complexity…. I love old chypre perfumes and for the other ones, those loaded the aldehydes, the jasmine and real sandalwood in the drydown is worth the wait.
        I agree with you about the terminology. It’s all relative.
        I was just trying to find a different term but it isn’t right because it’s all individual.
        For me, vintage is Mitsouko, L’Heure Blue and few other Guerlain , older Chanels and Dior, Narcisse Noir vintage and few other Caron that I love.
        I really enjoyed wearing Caleche Soin de Perfume this summer during the heat wave. Made me feel put together when I was melting. Haha. And the dry down was lovely. I love Cristalle in the hot weather, too, among others. September 24, 2022 at 8:00pm Reply

        • Nina Z: Don’t worry, I didn’t think you were bashing vintage perfumes. Actually I love them, too, and have many in my collection, including from Geurlain, Caron, Patou, and Chanel. The problem is that at this point, the term vintage refers to any perfume from the twentieth century. And that’s a lot of different kinds of perfume! September 25, 2022 at 12:27pm Reply

          • Notturno7: Hi Nina Z, that’s great. Which Patou and Caron you have? I’m going to look for some in my collection that are hidden in the back and I haven’t worn in over a year but I’m starting to miss them, like En Avion, it has a great vintage feel, an orange chypre. September 25, 2022 at 3:20pm Reply

            • Nina Z: From Patou, I have the Ma Collection minis from the 80s. Very fun. I also have bottles of Divine Folie and Adieu Sagesse. From Caron, I have Bellodgia, Alpona, and Farensiana. Wish I had more of them. And looking at this list now, I realize that I much prefer Caron to Patou. I remembering when I tried En Avion I really liked it. (I have a few friends with very large collections of vintage perfumes.) September 25, 2022 at 11:08pm Reply

              • Notturno7: Hi Nina, nice to hear of your Caron and Patou vintage perfumes. I’ve been wearing Divine Folie, I found the vintage bottle on ebay and it’s lovely. I’m not good at separating the notes, but I love the dry down. Can you tell what notes make such a lovely drydown? It feels vintage but with such good quality ingredients!
                I love Bellodgia, I got a vintage pure perfume off ebay too. Farnesiana, I love those carnations. Mmmm where did I put my bottle? Writing to you makes me look for my vintage bottles.
                Sorry! I posted this incorrectly, further below, instead of in reply to your comment!
                I tried the new Hermes with the violet and leather notes, it’s very nice to my humble nose 😉 September 28, 2022 at 4:36am Reply

  • Nina Z: I’ve been amusing myself the last hour thinking about what a “church lady” perfume might be. That’s because I’m not a Christian! And I’ve never been to a Sunday church service in my life. So while the term “church lady perfume” may be a short-hand for *something* to certain folks out there, I don’t have a clue what it means. Something for us all to keep in mind is that not only does this blog have many readers who are older, but it also has readers from many different countries as well as different religions. September 24, 2022 at 5:06pm Reply

  • Purple: Hello! Can anyone please help me understand my conflicting reactions to the aptly named Prada Paradoxe and maybe help me find a less conflicting alternative? I have tried Paradoxe a couple of times and my brain seems to say it’s nothing special, even a bit boring. It’s not snobbery, I’m fine with waering what “everyone else” is wearing, as long as it’s special to me, and I don’t think I could pinpoint it if I had som blotters of similar fragances on unmarked blotters. Then again I can’t helt stop sniffing my wrist in a way that isn’t the case with similar fragrances, somehow it draws me in anyway. I can’t say if I like it or not! Please help me understand what draws me to this fragrance, even though it doesn’t impress me? And where can I find similar attractive aspects, without the Fragrantica’s “This perfume reminds me of” was now help at all. Any thoughts on this are welcome. It seams I’m partial to some resins and balsams, could it be it’s the benzoin that’s my catnip? September 25, 2022 at 6:39am Reply

    • Purple: Sorry for the lousy editing. It was meant to say something along the lines of: …smiliar attractive aspects, without leaving my brain som very uningaged. Fragrantica’s … September 25, 2022 at 6:44am Reply

    • Nina Z: Your brain seems to be arguing with your nervous system, which has an intuitive reaction. It is totally possible to like a perfume that’s kind of boring and unoriginal. Sometimes that’s easier and less demanding to wear than something more complex and critically acclaimed. So if you enjoy smelling this one, that means you like it! But if you want to dig into it, go through the list of notes and try other perfumes that have the same prominent ones. It could be, for example, you’re enjoying the orange blossom, which can be very uplifting. September 25, 2022 at 12:39pm Reply

      • Purple: Thanks for your thoughts. 🙂 I am leaning towards doing just that, ignoring my brain and just going with the flow. Just thought, before I do that, I would check if someone here had a suggestion for something close to it, which could appeal to my whole self. Like for instance, Casamorati’s Dolce Amalfi should by my experiance be to sweet for me, and yet I fell head over heels. Mostly gut feeling, but the brain came along willingly. I had a wonderful time going with mainly the gut there, and being almost litterally obsessed with it (not just a hyperbole, haha).

        When the “reminds me of” section didn’t deliver, I think the notes are so very comon in fragrances, that the selection would be to big to be helpful. Also, it may just as well be the general feel of it, or the balance of the notes, that attracts, not necessarily the main notes. I thought that maybe someone here had tried Paradoxe, and could give me an association, or two of theirs, to some similar fragrance that they feel is even more fabulous. 🙂 September 25, 2022 at 2:54pm Reply

        • Nina Z: I haven’t tried it, though I mean to one day. I have heard very mixed things about it.

          I don’t think Prada Candy is similar to Paradoxe, but if you think it’s benzoin that is your catnip, try Candy because it’s basically a benzoin fragrance that is easily available. (I actually am a benzoin lover.) September 25, 2022 at 11:12pm Reply

          • Purple: Oh, thank you for that suggestion, will do! 😀 Good way to find out about the benzoin situation. September 29, 2022 at 3:34pm Reply

  • Laura: Hi, please recommend me a sunny, exuberant fragrance with fresh ginger, black tea, szechuan pepper orange peel and cloves. Looking forward to new suggestions. September 25, 2022 at 2:09pm Reply

    • Notturno7: Hi Laura, i don’t know, but you can look up perfumes with many notes here on Victoria’s website. She mentions them and then writes a whole article with descriptions. September 25, 2022 at 3:16pm Reply

      • Laura: What makes you think I did not already do all this? There is no fragrance in mass perfumery or European niche brands that fit this description. So either you know one, or you don’t. September 25, 2022 at 3:24pm Reply

        • Sebastian: Hmpf. I think it would have been polite to include that information in your original question.

          Just out of curiosity, if you’re sure that “there is no fragrance in mass perfumery or European niche brands that fit this description”, why are you nevertheless asking for a recommendation?

          Would you perhaps settle for something similar, such as Lavender Chai which has cardamon instead of sichuan pepper in the way of a spicy note with a citrus touch but otherwise fits note-wise? September 25, 2022 at 4:50pm Reply

          • Laura: Victoria’s blog attracts people from all countries, some of them really passionate about fragrances. I am hoping someone might just suggest a fragrance I have never heard before instead of lecturing me. On to the fragrance. The non-negotiable note is fresh (not candied) ginger. Lavender is a big no. September 25, 2022 at 4:57pm Reply

            • AnnieA: Demeter’s Gingerale says whee! Doesn’t last long though. September 28, 2022 at 6:47pm Reply

    • Nina Z: LOL I was so proud of myself for actually coming up with a fragrance that has ginger, tea, and pepper in it: Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre. But then I looked back at your list and saw you wanted something “sunny” and “exuberant” and, well, I don’t think Five O’Clock is either or those, thought it is kind of delicious. September 25, 2022 at 11:22pm Reply

      • Laura: Thank you, Nina! I did check that one. Actually yesterday I was lightly stewing some apples, added cloves and freshly cut ginger and the aroma was amazing so I thought “I could wear this!” The only time I smelled exuberant ginger was at the launch of Miracle by Lancome. That first batch was heavy on the ginger and really lovely (unlike today, unfortunately). Aqua Allegoria’s Ginger Piccante would be nice but for the rose, and Jardin Apres la Mousson has a really grating vetiver note at the start. Now if I could add the heady fresh ginger note to either Joe Malone’s Earl Grey and Cucumber or to Hermes’ Eau des Merveilles, that would be a winner. Even though Eau des Merveilles is perfect as it is. September 26, 2022 at 4:35am Reply

        • Sebastian: You might try layering with ginger extract. Perhaps that would work…

          I guess alcoholic ginger extract would be appropriate, as the perfume is alcohol-based as well. Perhaps it can be bought ready-made or you could make it yourself: Grind 45 grams of fresh ginger, add 100 ml of ethanol, let it stand (in warm place, you might also try using several heat cycles up to ca. 78 °C) for at least 12 hours or until it has the desired intensity. September 26, 2022 at 1:15pm Reply

    • Notturno7: Hi Nina, nice to hear of your Caron and Patou vintage perfumes. I’ve been wearing Divine Folie, I found the vintage bottle on ebay and it’s lovely. I’m not good at separating the notes, but I love the dry down. Can you tell what notes make such a lovely drydown? It feels vintage but such a good quality
      ingredients!
      I love Bellodgia, I got a vintage pure perfume off ebay too. Farnesiana, I love those carnations. Mmmm where did I put my bottle? Writing to you makes me look for my vintage bottles. September 27, 2022 at 9:03pm Reply

  • Marie: Bit late to the party but I’m desperate for ideas… I’ve recently found out that I’m allergic to limonene and I’ve said goodbye to all (all!) my scents. Can anyone recommend perfumes without limonene in them? I’d be ever so grateful. Sending love. September 27, 2022 at 11:30am Reply

    • Leslie: Hi Marie, you could try perfumes like Skylar, By Rosie Jane, Seven Virtues, and Henry Rose. Look for hypoallergenic fragrances and always check ingredients 😉 If you are sensitive to limonene, you may also be sensitive to linalool and other citrus oils, so just check ingredients to make sure. September 27, 2022 at 8:45pm Reply

      • Marie: Thanks so much Leslie, I’ll have a look at those! September 30, 2022 at 2:53pm Reply

  • Ginevra: I would like some recommendations for a note I am now addicted to: opoponax. Any ideas?Many thanks! September 27, 2022 at 8:36pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Opoponax by Les Néréides. If you want to invest a bit more: Shalimar by Guerlain. September 29, 2022 at 11:43am Reply

      • Ginevra: Thanks so much—don’t think the Les Nereides is still available September 29, 2022 at 10:51pm Reply

        • OnWingsofSaffron: I’m sorry Ginevra, didn‘t realize! Ebay perhaps? There are at least 3 vintage bottles (100ml) being sold on Ebay Italy. September 30, 2022 at 2:49am Reply

  • Bee: Hello! Can I please get recommendations for a long lasting perfume? Something that’d last 12+ hours. My favourites include TF Black Orchid and Chanel Allure Homme Sport. September 28, 2022 at 1:14am Reply

    • AnnieA: ELO’s Rien can last through a shower. I call it an Executive Lady scent and supposedly a leather September 28, 2022 at 6:44pm Reply

      • Bee: Thank you so much. Can you suggest similar designer fragrances? September 29, 2022 at 2:22am Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Dior Oud Ispahan! September 29, 2022 at 11:45am Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Bee: Kenzo Jungle l’Eléphant is long lasting as is Lancôme Poème I find, and Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady and Musc Ravageur, also Caron Parfum Sacré, the longest lasting was probaby Tom Ford Sahara Noir but it’s discontinued. Amouage perfumes are also great performers. September 29, 2022 at 3:20pm Reply

      • Aurora: *probably September 29, 2022 at 3:22pm Reply

      • Bee: Thank you so much! It’s a little difficult to find authentic niche fragrances so I’ve started collecting designer ones and these suggestions are super helpful. September 30, 2022 at 3:08am Reply

    • Marie: Came on to say Black Orchid, it lasts for days in me! Another one that has staying power is Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir and for me that has a similar “dark night, stars are out” vibe to the TF scent. September 30, 2022 at 2:52pm Reply

      • Bee: Anything similar to Black Orchid, Allure Homme Sport and Baccarat Rouge is helpful. I’ll definitely look into Pomegranate Noir. Thank you! September 30, 2022 at 4:11pm Reply

        • Leslie: Also try Insomnia by Faviol Seferi. September 30, 2022 at 8:30pm Reply

  • OnWingsofSaffron: Dior Oud Ispahan! September 29, 2022 at 11:49am Reply

  • Sam: I am so late to the party! But I recently discovered that Chanel no longer makes 28 La Pausa EDT (replaced with La Pausa, EDP), which doesn’t quite give me the same iris-forwardness. Any thoughts on alternatives to 28 La Pausa?

    I enjoy FM Iris Poudre and SL Iris Silver Mist, but not Hermes Hiris (has a synthetic tone), for reference. September 30, 2022 at 1:23pm Reply

    • Leslie: PERHAPS Hedonist Iris Absolute
      Eau de Parfum
      by Viktoria Minya September 30, 2022 at 8:34pm Reply

    • la_ninon: To my nose, there is nothing like La Pausa edt, sadly. That said, I enjoy Iris Poudre and ISM (and not Hiris), so I thought I’d mention Irisss as another favorite. I also love Splendiris, but it’s at least as much about violet as iris. October 2, 2022 at 12:47am Reply

      • Sam: thank you for the recommendations, Leslie and la_ninon! Irisss sounds up my alley, I have ordered samples for it and Splendiris already ^^ StC did not have Hedonist Iris Absolute samples unfortunately, but I shall keep looking.

        All this iris research led me back down the Iris Gris rabbithole, and I discovered that DSH made a reproduction a few years ago (Scent of Hope)! Also grabbed samples for that. October 3, 2022 at 11:20am Reply

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  • Vincent V. in Reading Sa’di’s Gulistan: I love it, thanks for sharing this Victoria! Currently, I’m reading Du côté de chez Swann (Swann’s way) by M. Proust. It also makes me sit up and think every… October 4, 2022 at 3:14am

  • Michele Davis in Reading Sa’di’s Gulistan: I’m reading Clive James Poetry Collection which you can find online using those words. I particularly love reading aloud “Language Lessons”. It’s not as floral or exquisite as Victoria’s regular… October 3, 2022 at 10:39pm

  • Michele Davis in Reading Sa’di’s Gulistan: I agree!! October 3, 2022 at 10:32pm

  • Fazal in Reading Sa’di’s Gulistan: This is awesome. I have often said that if ever a young person asked me for an advice, I will say this, “If there is only one advice I could… October 3, 2022 at 7:03pm

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