Recommend Me a Perfume : October 2022

Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors. Or you can just tell us what perfume you are wearing!

How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!

To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin



  • Alexa G: I got samples of the new Apoteker Tepe re-releases and I have been enjoying them so much. The Holy Mountain, Brother Night, and Karasu are my favorites, each a variation on dry, smoky incense. Has anyone else tried these? I missed them first time around and am glad I got another opportunity to smell them. October 26, 2022 at 9:05am Reply

    • Aurora: I’ve never heard of Apoteker, and I love incense, thank you Alexa October 26, 2022 at 12:03pm Reply

    • Tara C: I have all three of them, but didn’t like Brother Night (failed blind buy). Too smoky for me. I love the other two. Unsuccessfully trying to sell Brother Night on FB and Basenotes – I think no one has heard of it. 🙁 October 26, 2022 at 4:16pm Reply

      • Alexa G: Ohhhh I will check for your listings! I hear you on the smoke but that’s why I love it! I think Karasu is my favorite of all, then The Holy Mountain. October 26, 2022 at 4:24pm Reply

    • la_ninon: I’ve read about this line, but never sampled it. Have you tried Peradam? I’m always searching for a complex lily. October 27, 2022 at 11:24am Reply

      • Alexa G: I love Paradam! It is beautiful. I will wear it a lot in the springtime. It is very, very different from the others and closer to a classical perfume, IMO. It reminded me a bit of a classic Guerlain. You can buy samples from Apoteker Tepe. October 27, 2022 at 11:42am Reply

        • la_ninon: Thank you so much, Alexa–this is wonderful to hear! Can I ask another quick question: Are the incense scents all frankincense-forward? It’s a note I struggle with. October 28, 2022 at 4:57pm Reply

          • Alexa G: I don’t think there is frankincense – it smells much drier to me. Karasu certainly doesn’t. Brother Night has copal, that I know. But I would ask them to make sure! October 29, 2022 at 6:24pm Reply

            • la_ninon: Great feedback, thank you so much! October 29, 2022 at 8:04pm Reply

            • Diana: Alexa, I so enjoyed this thread. Thanks for the introduction to Apoteker – I will order a discovery kit! Thanks everybody November 7, 2022 at 7:21am Reply

  • Linda Alquimia dos Perfumes: Today I am using Amarige, a fragrance that enchants me and makes me happy. I would like fragrance indications that refer to red roses.
    Thank you October 26, 2022 at 9:39am Reply

    • Klaas: Hello Linda, Nahema is a classic just like Amarige, and one of the best rose centered fragrances I know. The current formulations are in pretty good shape apparently and at a very good price point, too!

      Happy rose hunting 😉 October 26, 2022 at 11:32am Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Linda: Excellent recommendation from Klass already, Nahema is a passionfruit rose I always think.

      Light roses: Serge Lutens has Sa Majesté la Rose, a lovely soliflore, full of light, Goutal Rose Absolue, pure rose smell, and Rose Splendide a green rose, Diptyque Eau Rose, try the edt and edp, they’re different, I prefer the happy edt

      Dark roses: Serge Lutens, La Fille de Berlin, also Etat Libre d’Orange Eau de Protection. Frederic Malle has Une Rose but I think the name changed to something else, I don’t remember the new name. October 26, 2022 at 12:16pm Reply

    • Nina Z: How about Red Roses cologne from Jo Malone? That’s a very straightforward red rose focused fragrance. Another one is Montale Highness Rose.

      I also second Nahema and Sa Majeste La Rose. Nahema is my favorite rose fragrance. Yes, it has other notes besides rose but it smells so much like real roses to me and it is one that doesn’t go sour on me, which happens with many other rose fragrances. October 26, 2022 at 12:25pm Reply

    • Tara C: Diptyque Eau Rose edp is a lovely fresh rose. October 26, 2022 at 4:17pm Reply

    • Betty A: Voleur de Roses by L’Artisan Parfumeur is a rich, earthy, dark rose. There’s something reminiscent of bruised red rose petals after a storm, with a slightly pepper-y note, and rich wet earth. This is not a sweet, girlish rose but a more complex, darker take on the bloom. October 26, 2022 at 7:10pm Reply

    • Christopher Johnson: Hi. Can anyone recommend anything like the original Annick Goutal Duel EDT (not the EDP)? The eau de toilette is sadly discontinued and the eau de parfum version does not have the same delicate translucence of the EDT. I have not found anything like it in all of niche perfumery. October 27, 2022 at 9:01pm Reply

      • Aurora: Hello Christopher: You might want to repost your query as a comment, not a reply that way it will be at the end of the thread, you would get more replies that way. I’m so sorry that your favorite has been discontinued maybe another light leather might suit you. Here are a few I know: Santa Maria Novella Colonia Russa, Chanel 28 La Pausa and maybe Bel Respiro too, Aqua Di Parma Colonia Leather. October 29, 2022 at 12:26pm Reply

    • Ine Espenes: Nkce suggestions so far. I would also like to add Portrait of a lady by Frederick Mall November 3, 2022 at 8:24am Reply

  • cristina: This autumn I like to wear Teresa Helbig”Tangier Memories” in the warmer days or when I feel confident and crisp and ELDO “Like This” for a comforting and cozy evening with my friends or when I enjoy my book . October 26, 2022 at 10:30am Reply

    • Aurora: Like This is very cozy indeed. October 26, 2022 at 11:54am Reply

      • Laura: Dear all,
        I would like a suggestion for a fresh, uplifting scent to wear in autumn/ winter.
        Thank you! October 29, 2022 at 7:07am Reply

  • Dorothy Van Daele: I use Soak, a gentle, no rinse, liquid wash for handknits, lingerie, etc. Years ago, it came in an unusual fragrance they called Aquae, since which discontinued. They have brought out another exceptional scent called Wild Mint. If you hand wash, Soak might suit you. October 26, 2022 at 10:33am Reply

    • Aurora: I wasn’t aware of Soak, I googled and it’s available in the UK where I am, thank you for an excellent recommendation Dorothy! October 26, 2022 at 12:22pm Reply

  • Anastasia: I’ve just finished my decant of Bois de Violette by Serge Lutens. Lovely violet woody and slightly leathery. Very suitable for this weather! Sadly discontinued. Very similar though is Violet shot by Olfactive studio, being a touch more gourmand. Violet is a perfectly suitable note for Autumn. Insolence, apres l’ondee are other lovely violet fragrances, but more airy, I’d rather wear them in spring. Any subjections for warm violet fragrances for Autumn please? October 26, 2022 at 11:06am Reply

    • Klaas: Hi Anastasia, Hermes just launched Violette Volynka, a beautiful fragrances that blends violet and leather to perfection! I find it incredibly chic and very suitable for autumn, with its touch of nostalgia…..

      Violette Volynka is a very discreet fragrance though, with moderate longevity and sillage. At this price point that is something to consider….. You’ll wear it for yourself and not for those around you 😉 October 26, 2022 at 11:28am Reply

      • Anastasia: Thank you so much Klaas! Violette Volynka sounds very close to what I’m looking for. I’ll definitely look for a sample, thank you! October 26, 2022 at 12:06pm Reply

        • Wendy Reinemann: I purchased Hermes Violette Volynka at Heathrow. I love it. It is exactly as described, violette and leather. It is true, it is not a strong sillage, but I don’t mind. I just reapply during the day and know I will be wearing it for me! November 15, 2022 at 6:43pm Reply

          • Anastasia: Good to know! Thank you Wendy! November 16, 2022 at 3:49pm Reply

      • luma: Hi Klaas,
        I almost like this fragrance. It’s a little too smoky or musky or something for me. I think I could layer this with something a little sweeter or brighter or softer and like it a lot. Have you ever layered it with another fragrance? Any layering tips for Violette Volynka? May 7, 2024 at 8:26pm Reply

    • Charlotte: Not sure why my comment appears further down @anastasia but I replied to you below 🙂 October 26, 2022 at 11:38am Reply

    • Charlotte: Not sure why my comment is appearing further down @anastasia but please scroll down to see my reply to you 🙂 October 26, 2022 at 11:41am Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Anastasia: I hesitate because it is discontinued but Balmain Jolie Madame is a reference violet and leather perfume, you would have to save a search on eBay, maybe just a sample, it comes time to time on ebay where I am in the UK. October 26, 2022 at 12:28pm Reply

      • Anastasia: Hi Aurora! Jolie Madame is an iconic fragrance which I still haven’t tried, you’ve given me a good reason to look for it on eBay! Thank you so much for the great suggestion! October 26, 2022 at 12:38pm Reply

      • la_ninon: Totally agree re. Jolie Madame. It’s exquisite. October 28, 2022 at 2:03pm Reply

      • Emily: Thirding Jolie Madame, just to experience it. still has some vintage EDT, which is relatively affordable & so charming. Like a ballerina in a biker jacket. October 29, 2022 at 12:08pm Reply

    • Dorothy Van Daele: I love Bois de Violette too! Replaced my bottle recently, buying from eBay. I wear it year round (as exhausting the previous bottle probably indicates). October 26, 2022 at 1:05pm Reply

      • Anastasia: Lucky you! It’s lovely for all year indeed! I searched for it, but I couldn’t find it in reasonable prices in Europe. October 26, 2022 at 1:14pm Reply

    • Silvermoon: Hello Anastasia,
      I have suggestions for a couple of violets that you could try: Violet Ida (Miller Harris) and Nightingale (Zoologist). Both are very different and I really enjoy wearing them in the autumn. I don’t know the Lutens one, so can’t say which might be suitable. October 26, 2022 at 4:32pm Reply

      • Anastasia: Thank you so much Silvermoon! I haven’t tried any of these two fragrances! I’ll look for samples! Thank you! October 26, 2022 at 6:53pm Reply

    • Ginevra: What? It’s been discontinued? I didn’t know that. I have a bell jar that’s almost full from 2014 that I will use very sparingly. It’s my favorite and now I’m sad:( October 26, 2022 at 9:03pm Reply

      • Anastasia: I’ve emailed Serge Lutens official site and they said they don’t know if it will be available… Good for you that you have a full bell jar!  October 28, 2022 at 12:58am Reply

      • OnWingsofSaffron: On the official SL website the bell jar still is available. But my goodness, has the price exploded! October 28, 2022 at 3:47pm Reply

        • Anastasia: I am afraid it is discontinued. The bottle is there, but there is a note ”notify me when available”. You cannot buy it. And it has been like that for more than a year now that I have been looking for it. That’s why I emailed them.   October 30, 2022 at 2:41pm Reply

    • Hamamelis: You could try Hiram Green’s Vivacious, my favourite warm violet. October 27, 2022 at 2:36am Reply

      • Anastasia: Thank you Hamamelis! I ordered the discovery set of Hiram Green three days ago! Great! I didn’t know about Vivacious though, thank you!!! I am double happy now to receive the samples! October 28, 2022 at 1:04am Reply

    • la_ninon: Warm violet is tough. I adore Splendiris, but it’s cool and melancholic, probably not what you’re looking for. October 27, 2022 at 11:14am Reply

      • Anastasia: Indeed, I’ve tried Splendiris and it is not warm, thank you any way for the sugestion la_ninon! October 28, 2022 at 1:08am Reply

        • la_ninon: I’m glad you like it, too! November 2, 2022 at 8:49pm Reply

    • Sebastian: Hi Anastasia, I recommend Violette Fumée by Mona di Orio. It is a violet scent that is enriched by a bit of lavender and guiac wood, which makes it warm and almost smoky, very soft in the dry-down (I think cashmeran), and very original, as the whole thing is combined with a rose-oriental side that is also wonderful. The violet is not too powdery, and realized very naturalistic and direct in the opening. I love this perfume. The downseide is that it is rather fleeting and also projects little. I need to re-apply often during the day. October 30, 2022 at 1:48pm Reply

      • Anastasia: Thank you so much! Violette Fumee sounds very interesting! I don’t mind about poor performance at all. Thank you, I’ll definitely look for it!  October 30, 2022 at 2:45pm Reply

    • Valentyna: Serge Lutens Bois de Violette is not discontinued. It’s temporarily out of stock. Many brands are struggling with packaging issues now amongst other manufacturing type issues. October 31, 2022 at 9:28am Reply

      • Anastasia: That’s good news! Thank you! October 31, 2022 at 2:02pm Reply

  • Muireann: I’m trying to find the perfect iris dominant scent. I have a decent of Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist and it is sublime. It’s not available anywhere, and I’d love to find an alternative. Iris Poudré ain’t it, La Pausa is OK but limited performance/prive ratio. Any suggestions? Thanks! October 26, 2022 at 11:32am Reply

    • Klaas: Hello Muireann! I’m not a Iris connoisseur, but Prada’s Infusion d’Iris and Hiris from Hermès are classics. O wore Maître Parfumeur et Gantiers Iris Bleu Gris a lot, and I liked it very much! It’s a soft, velvety iris set off against a light Chypre backdrop. Gorgeous for colder weather! October 26, 2022 at 11:42am Reply

      • Muireann: Thank you for your suggestions! Infusion d’Iris isn’t to my taste, but I must try the others. October 26, 2022 at 11:50am Reply

      • la_ninon: I learned about Iris Bleu Gris in one of these threads and like it a lot! October 27, 2022 at 11:14am Reply

    • Klaas: And I just saw that Santa Maria Novella launched L’Iris, a new Eau de Parfum. Could be very, very interesting…….. October 26, 2022 at 11:48am Reply

    • Nina Z: Parfum D’Empire LE CRI Eau de Parfum is a beautiful crystalline iris that Luca Turin gave 5 stars. October 26, 2022 at 12:29pm Reply

      • Klaas: Hey Nina, I’ve been wanting to try this one for ages! Thank you for reminding me here……I’m getting recommendations without even asking, this blog is the best! October 26, 2022 at 12:58pm Reply

      • Dorothy Van Daele: Yes! I tried it on his recommendation too, then waited for a bottle to become available. October 26, 2022 at 1:07pm Reply

        • Klaas: Hey Dorothy, are you talking about Iris Bleu Gris? Maître P. & G. now sells 10 ml travel sprays…….a good way to.try without breaking the bank 😉 October 27, 2022 at 12:38pm Reply

          • Dorothy Van Daele: That price sounds great, but no, I was responding to the comment on Parfum D’Empire’s Le Cri de la Lumière (which just reads «Le Cri» on the box now). I bought a sample from Surrender to Chance after reading the review in Perfumes: the Guide by Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez (2018). I loved it and wanted to buy a bottle but the first run had sold out and so I had to wait till Parfum d’Empire made more. It’s a lovely perfume, as Luca Turin states, «when I sprayed Le Cri on a strip, I was bowled over; the back and forth between iris and rose in the first five minutes is one of the most beautiful opening melodies… in recent perfumeries…. I had to pick up my daughter from school and did not want to be parted from the smelling strip.» p.100. Of the perfumes I sampled based on the book’s reviews, Le Cri, Alaia, and Cartier’s XI L’Heure Perdue were my favourites. I wish I could afford the Cartier! October 27, 2022 at 10:48pm Reply

            • Klaas: Yes, the Heures collection is fantastic! But so expensive……and it takes some courage to go into a Cartier store, with all the security….. October 28, 2022 at 2:19am Reply

      • la_ninon: How rosy is this? October 27, 2022 at 10:59am Reply

      • Emily: Le Cri is divine & “crystalline” is the perfect descriptor – but Parfum d’Empire has another lovely leathery iris as well, Equistrius. If you order directly from their website I’ve discovered that the sample processing fee can be applied directly to a full bottle order & there’s somehow no shipping. Might as well try them all! October 31, 2022 at 11:05am Reply

    • la_ninon: Irisss is my unattainable favorite. October 27, 2022 at 10:57am Reply

    • pfsh: Would you consider Scent of Hope by DSH? It’s a recreation of Iris Gris, so it has some fruity notes, but to my nose it is still predominantly iris and extremely lovely.

      Also seconding Hiris for a cold iris. October 27, 2022 at 9:54pm Reply

      • Muireann: Thanks for your suggestions! All added to my list October 28, 2022 at 10:36am Reply

    • AnnieA: Masque Milano L’Attesa is my all time favourite iris, if very expensive. The Prada iris in the absolue version is very nice and often at discounters. October 31, 2022 at 8:38am Reply

    • Ugo: You should try Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas o L’Attesa by Masque Milano. Very riches irises November 1, 2022 at 12:24pm Reply

  • Klaas: Hello Linda, Nahema is a classic just like Amarige, and one of the best rose centered fragrances I know. The current formulations are in pretty good shape apparently and at a very good price point, too!

    Happy rose hunting 😉 October 26, 2022 at 11:36am Reply

  • Charlotte: Hi Anastasia, have you tried Hermessence Cuir d’Ange? It is quite light and airy and lovely in spring, but I think the cozy fluffy powder from the heliotrope and the warmth of the leather make it nice in autumn too. The heliotrope and Hawthorne are stronger than the violet to my nose, but it’s definitely there! I think I will wear this scent today, in fact 🙂 October 26, 2022 at 11:37am Reply

    • Anastasia: Thank you so much Charlotte! Cuir d’Ange sounds lovely. And I’ve seen it’s a Jean Claude Helena creation whom I admire. I’ll look for it, thank you! October 26, 2022 at 12:24pm Reply

      • Charlotte: I hope you enjoy it Anastasia! October 27, 2022 at 3:33pm Reply

  • Anastasia: Thank you so much Charlotte! Cuir d’Ange sounds lovely! And I’ve seen it’s a Jean Claude Helena creation, whom I admire! Thanks so much for the suggestion! I’ll try finding a sample! October 26, 2022 at 12:13pm Reply

  • Muireann: Thank you, I really like this perfume house but haven’t tried Le Cri. It has been added to the list now! October 26, 2022 at 12:43pm Reply

  • Anders Juel Michelsen: I really would like a recommendation of male perfumes and aftershaves. I have tryed out a lot of perfumes and really love Armanis Cedar and Miyakis Wood & Wood together with Chanes Allure and Paco Rabannes Pour homme, but still think I haven’t found my favourite. October 26, 2022 at 1:38pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Hello Anders, what do you consider a „male perfume“? I‘m not trying to be snooty, woke or facetious, but I really wonder what you mean. Is it „male“ if for instance the company decides and proclaims: this is for men! Like „bags“ are for women and „backpacks“ are for men. Or is it for the boys when certain scent components are used (say, dry woods) and florals are for the girls (say, sweet roses). I‘m asking because you could go for Dior Oud Ispahan which is super oud macho with a star role played by a rose.
      I will wager that only the department store fragrances differentiate between the sexes; the niche perfumes don’t give a fig. Actually, one of the most important perfume books by Luca Turin and Tania Sanches (The A—Z Guide) says: „Given that fragrances have no genitalia, we refuse to remark further.“ If you were to branch out beyond „pour homme“ and „pour femme“, say look at the Serge Lutens or the Hermessence range by Hermès which do not differentiate, you might stumble across something you really like.
      Another point to think of is that some so called female perfumes of the late 50’s and 60‘s are so butch/tough/no-nonsence (Cabochard by Grès) that they would be marketed towards men nowadays. BTW that was the era of aftershaves, I don‘t believe that genre still exists.
      Right, enough pontificating by me. Why don’t you have a look at the Andy Tauer range: I‘m sure you‘ll find something extraordinary there! ( October 26, 2022 at 4:30pm Reply

      • Sebastian: It does seem a bit excessive, even decadent, to after-shave oneself with a Tauer 🙂

        But I agree, Cologne du Maghreb behaves like an after-shave, both performance and scent-wise.

        Traditional British companies still produce after shaves as regular components of their palette (Floris, Trumper etc.) Much of it classic barbershop stuff.

        Then there’s good, cheap stuff in drugstores in Germany. As you seem to like it woody: Mäurer & Wirtz Tabac Original After Shave is a real classic, too, and not strictly for old men.

        I myself prefer simple (i. e. non-complex) fragrances as after shaves, not being up to dealing with anything else at the time I shave. Something simple with lavender, Lohses Uralt or Caldey Island, is just perfect for me. October 28, 2022 at 3:22pm Reply

        • OnWingsofSaffron: Lohses Uralt: sounds like a darkish beer from Düsseldorf! October 28, 2022 at 3:35pm Reply

          • Sebastian: 🙂

            It’s smells of dried lavender of the sort you put in your wardrobe, with a bit of white musk. I’d say more Kölsch than Alt 🙂 October 28, 2022 at 3:57pm Reply

            • OnWingsofSaffron: And guess what: Andy Tauer has just introduced his latest Persian inspired perfume: Golestan —
              I am very tempted indeed! October 31, 2022 at 5:09pm Reply

              • Sebastian: Oh God, Tauer has been infected with bacterium blurbii: “sensual jasmine, lustful tuberose and erotic orange blossom” – so oriental.

                A new Tauer floriental might be something, though. Thanks for the pointer. I’m just a bit suspicious of cinnamon in the head notes and vanilla combined with Tauer’s trademark synthetic woods drydown. I’ll wait and see. But beautiful bottle design. October 31, 2022 at 6:16pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Anders: Have you tried Terre d’Hermes? October 27, 2022 at 1:01am Reply

    • Klaas: Hello Anders, I agree with OnWings here that it would be a shame to limit yourself to the fragrances that are marketed towards men. Scents have no gender and you should wear what you like. Most niche brands stopped making the distinction between male and female fragrances just for this reason.

      However, if you like woody scents, you should explore some of the fragrances by Comme des Garçons. They have fantastic woody fragrances and yes, they are gender neutral 😉

      And have you dabbed your nose into vetiver scents? It’s a classic ingrediënt of the more ‘male’ colognes and there is a lot, a lot to choose from, in all price ranges. Guerlain Vetiver, Tom Ford Grey Vetiver, Encre Noir by Lalique, Bel Ami Vetiver and Terre by Hermes…..they are all very good!

      While you’re at the Guerlain counter, also give Habit Rouge a try. Very different, but another great classic. And when you’re shopping at Tom Ford: Beau de Jour, Ombré Leather, Costa Azzurra……ask for samples!

      But again: let your nose decide, and not the label….. October 27, 2022 at 1:03pm Reply

      • MaryAnn Popper Hardy: Through the decades I have tried and tried to wear lovely “male” fragrances. The components of each were incredibly appeal to me! But when wearing it I smelled like other men. I want to smell womanly, as I am and I cherish the gender that allows me to dress in velvet or silk. It’s only fashion! It’s fashion of the current times that gives us “male” and “female” scents. Just as for a time at the turn of a decade, wearing Patchouli was the penultimate of cool (in my culture) and now it’s not, we may see “male” fragrances, heavy with cedar and vetiver associated with femininity and powdery florals with masculinity. I’m sure the day will come.
        In the meantime we can make the best of our traditions as they are now. Back in the day, in it’s original form, I would follow Dior Sauvage down the street, but it never worked ON me 🙁 October 28, 2022 at 4:16pm Reply

        • Klaas: Dear Mary Ann. I personally believe that neither silk nor velvet have a gender. Nor do vetiver or tuberose. I strongly believe that we should follow our hearts and personal tastes, rather than the tastes marketeers, fashions and traditions push on to us. I also believe that male and female are outdated concepts. Women can be presidents and wear suits. Men can stay at home and wear aprons. It’s all good! October 29, 2022 at 10:11am Reply

  • Emilie: Hello ! Do you know any perfume that smells similar to œillet mignardise soap by Roger&Gallet ? I just love this scent ! Thanks in advance. October 26, 2022 at 2:49pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Emilie: Carnation perfumes reminding if oeillet mignardise have become quite rare because of the restrictions on eugenol, so many are discontinued however Oriza L. Legrand has Royal Oeillet and there is a soap too which smells divine, I have one in my bathroom. October 27, 2022 at 1:07am Reply

      • Nina Z: I second the recommendation for Oriza L Legrand! I love their carnation soaps and use them regularly. Another option is Santa Maria Novella Garofano soap (garofano is carnation in Italian). That one is more of a citrusy carnation. I used to use that one until I found the Royal Oeillet. October 27, 2022 at 12:17pm Reply

      • Ugo: Oh my god I’m a fan of carnation too! I’m very sad. Yes the Eugenol is a problem but I can assure you that the amount needed to make a fragrance smell spicy and divine is under the upper limit by Ifra. I just ordered the Roger&Gallet soap 😍. I ALSO was very curious of ROYAL OEILLET but Oriza doesn’t have the sample so I was afraid of buying the entire bottle but if you tell it’s spicy like for example the old old L’Air du Temps I can think about it. November 1, 2022 at 12:37pm Reply

    • Klaas: I agree with the ladies up here. The Oriza Legrand is very good! Though to be honest, I’m not familiar with the Roger & Gallet so can’t compare…. October 27, 2022 at 12:44pm Reply

      • Emilie: Thank you Aurora, Nina and Klaas 🙂 I ordered a 50ml bottle of Royal Œillet, looking forward to wearing it ! October 27, 2022 at 3:19pm Reply

  • Abdul: Just tried Cuir Velours by Naomi Goodsir. I can’t get myself to get used to the brand’s other scents but this one built around suede and rum and immortelle took me back to smelling the vintage beauties. I am talking Femme by Rochas, Canasta by Fath and Diorama by Dior – the common thread being the fruit note. But to my surprise, no fruit is listed at all for this perfume. I smell a very plummy fruit but maybe its the sticky and leathery notes creating the effect. What do you guys think? I would buy this perfume to wear twice, maybe thrice a year just because it smells so unusual. October 26, 2022 at 4:26pm Reply

    • Valentyna: I’ve recently sampled cuir velours as well, wore it couple of times. I believe the fruity note you’re referring to (i can smell it in Serge Lutens Daim Blond, though not as intense as well as in his El Attarine) could potentially be “rum”. As often rum notes in perfumes could imply certain degree of fruity sweetness (molasses). I liked Cuir Velours for its closeness to the original Dior Intense Pour Homme from 2008 in the opening with its velvet orris. I wish more brands would do 10-20ml versions of their perfumes. 100ml is not always the best option for people with more than 10 fragrances in the cupboard. October 31, 2022 at 6:58pm Reply

  • Caroline: I know this is a recommend a perfume thread, but I was wondering if anyone had bodywash recommendations? I’ve enjoyed trying Victoria’s recommendations, especially the mass market gems (body shop) or the more niche producers that aren’t just the body wash version of the perfume or the candle. I find bodywashes allow me to dabble in scents I’d find overwhelming to wear all day. October 26, 2022 at 5:36pm Reply

    • Hamamelis: I don’t know where you live, but Korres has very nice bodywash/douchegel products. Saffron Spices smells like Ormonde Jayne Woman, and they have a lovely Jasmin. October 27, 2022 at 2:43am Reply

    • Hamamelis: It is Saffron Orris, not Saffron Spices. Andy Tauer also does lovely soaps! October 27, 2022 at 3:52am Reply

      • la_ninon: Yes! I loved Tauer’s gardenia soap, though it doesn’t last long…might be best tucked into a drawer. October 27, 2022 at 10:50am Reply

      • Caroline: Thanks for the advice! I’ve enjoyed the Korres jasmin and I’ll give the saffron number a go October 29, 2022 at 3:32am Reply

    • la_ninon: I’m exploring this category, and so far I really like Mind and Body Wash, which has a forest floor type scent, as well as the white floral soaps from Scenteurs d’Orient. If I had money to burn, I’d buy the Frederic Malle body washes. October 27, 2022 at 10:56am Reply

      • Caroline: Thanks for your thoughts. A forest floor experience in the shower would be a great way to start the day! October 29, 2022 at 3:34am Reply

    • pfsh: I love scented body washes too! If you’re located in the US, Target stocks a brand called Hey Humans that has a range of interesting scents. I enjoyed the banana one (less fruity than you’d expect, more banana peel/leaf) and the vanilla one. Good luck! October 27, 2022 at 10:06pm Reply

    • Maria: Not exactly a bodywash recommendation but I really love Iris soaps from Santa Maria Novella! October 28, 2022 at 11:07am Reply

    • Silvermoon: Hi Caroline, I second Korres.

      Also, there is the British brand Molton Brown. They have a whole range to choose from. I especially like Orange and Bergamot. Also like Suede Orris. In the summer, Coastal Cypress and Sea Fennel has a real beach feel, and Recharge Black Pepper is very refreshing.

      L’Occitane also has some lovely bath and shower gels/washes. October 28, 2022 at 4:41pm Reply

    • carole: Caroline, I love the Acqua di Parma body washes. I love their funny blue bottles, which look great in the shower. I love all of them but Miro is my favourite by far. I found mine at discount site, so it was about 60 percent off. I used to love the Goutal Paris body washes and creams, too. October 30, 2022 at 10:50am Reply

  • la_ninon: I tend to like classical, “French” style perfumerie and wonder if there are any structured retro/modern scents from the last few years that I might have missed. Thank you! October 27, 2022 at 2:11am Reply

    • Aurora: You’ve probably tried it already but I always think of Cartier La Panthère as a a modern classic scent, especially the parfum concentration October 29, 2022 at 4:37am Reply

      • la_ninon: Tysm, I have sampled Panthere, though not the parfum. I struggle with fruit, unfortunately, so it was a miss for me. October 29, 2022 at 8:06pm Reply

    • Cybele: Have you tried Une Fleur de Cassie by Frederic Malle? November 4, 2022 at 4:08pm Reply

      • la_ninon: I have, years ago. It’s definitely on my retest list! November 4, 2022 at 6:53pm Reply

  • Diana Moon: Hello to all; I’m so enjoying reading your comments! I adore the scent of fresh violet and pansy in the Spring; Has anyone worn Goutal’s La Violette (oops – sp?) Thanks, Diana October 27, 2022 at 8:33am Reply

    • Gloria: Hello Diana, I got Goutal’s LA Violette from Bloomie’s (or Nordy’s?) back in 2018 and had to return it after a few tries. I’m a violet hound, but smelled hardly anything with it, even after a generous spraying on a cotton blouse. I’d never been asnomic to anything except Sarah Jessica Parker’s Lovely after a few wearings. I just found La Violette extremely disappointing – – barely even a face mist strength & the price was steep. Now many people might disagree with me, but that was my experience; it’s also possible I just got a bad bottle. I’m about to get Chanel’s Misia for my latest violet fix. I also have and enjoy Molinard’s Violette, which had a reasonable price and is in a very pretty purple bottle (quite similar to the by Kilian bottles). I have Guerlain’s Meteorites (from 2017, so not vintage) and YSL’s Paris EdT (vintage from the first year it came out). They’re both okay, but not exactly what I was searching for. For me, Paris screams late 80’s/early 90’s, even with just the smallest spritz. I also have Frederic Malle’s Lipstick Rose, which is loverly but extremely “Va-Va-Voom” (and my illustrious VaVaVoom days are well behind me), so it doesn’t get much use. Demeter’s Violet is inexpensive, realistic, & nice for a quick blast, although the longevity is weak (but huge compared to my La Violette experience). Hope this helps at all & good luck! November 21, 2022 at 10:56pm Reply

      • Diana: Hello Gloria, My comments back to you ended up on the bottom of these lovely threads. Thanks for your generous response all so good to know. My hunt continues- Good luck with Misia 🤸🏽‍♂️ November 22, 2022 at 1:03pm Reply

  • GL: Hi folks! My favorite scent for years — on recommendation from here! — has been Parfums d’Empire’s Azemour les Orangers. I’d love a recommendation for something in a similar vein: a winter orange with a bitter chord, unisex or unisex-masculine, October 27, 2022 at 8:15pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hi: For bitter orange there is Des Clous pour une pelure by Serge Lutens but you also have to like cloves. It smells just like a pomander. October 29, 2022 at 4:48am Reply

      • GL: Thanks for the rec! I’ll give it a sample for sure. Would love other recs as well! October 29, 2022 at 10:09am Reply

  • pfsh: Hello! I’ve recently been thinking about dry vanilla scents a lot, think vanilla but not gourmand. I enjoyed Hermes Vanille Galante, but most other vanilla scents are too sweet and foody for me.

    Do you have other woodsy, non-gourmand vanillas to recommend? All suggestions welcome! October 27, 2022 at 10:04pm Reply

    • Maria: Hello! Your question make me think of Jicky by Guerlain. Even if it has a vanillic fond, I find it still very woodsy and lavender based October 28, 2022 at 11:05am Reply

      • pfsh: Hello Maria! Ahh it has been a long time since I have smelled Jicky, I will have to revisit it now that you mention the vanilla in it. Thank you for the suggestion! October 28, 2022 at 1:45pm Reply

    • Sebastian: Are you thinking of vanilla perfumes, or of perfumes with vanilla?

      With regard to the former, “non-gourmand” seems like a contradiction in terms to me. But I can recommend one dry, non-sweet, vanilla perfume, namely Vanille Havane (Les Indemodables). I am usually very outspoken in my dislike of vanilla, but this one is good, although it is vanilla 😉 Dark, warm, a tiny bit smoky, very attractive. October 28, 2022 at 1:27pm Reply

      • pfsh: Hello Sebastian, that’s a good question! I am thinking of perfumes with vanilla, where it is present but does not have to be the sole focus.

        With Vanille Galante, the vanilla shares a stage with ylang and woods, which makes it easier for me to enjoy without getting too much of a food-y response.

        Vanille Havane sounds lovely, I also enjoy tobacco! Thank you for the suggestion, I will seek it out. October 28, 2022 at 1:44pm Reply

      • pfsh: Hi Sebastian, I came back to say that I finally smelled Vanille Havane and it is GORGEOUS. I couldn’t stop smelling the blotter at the store. I got a sample and am wearing it now — I can’t get over how good it smells. It has a chocolate note that I enjoy very much in addition to the vanilla and tobacco. It is not sweet at all — your recommendation was spot on. Thank you so much! November 28, 2022 at 5:28pm Reply

        • Sebastian: Hi pfsh, oh, wonderful! Thank you for returning to share your enthusiasm for this beautiful perfume. It makes me glad to know you like it so much. November 29, 2022 at 6:22am Reply

    • Silvermoon: I recently tried Jo Malone’s Vetiver and Golden Vanilla. I noticed that it starts with a burst of soft cardamom, but there is no lasting foodie impression. I would call it a dry vanilla, a bit hay-like even woody as it dries down. October 28, 2022 at 4:30pm Reply

    • Aurora: Perhaps Goutal Vanille Exquise might suit you. October 29, 2022 at 4:40am Reply

    • Damla: My suggestion would be Diptyque Eau Duelle EDP or EDT if you are into woody vanillas. The EDT being more juniper-y and citrusy to my rose, the EDP a more classic vanilla but still airy. November 12, 2022 at 11:41pm Reply

    • Cristina Mariani: Fleur cachee by Lebreton. Not sweet. Boozy. Warm November 13, 2022 at 6:31am Reply

    • Hayley: Architects club by Arquisite November 18, 2022 at 5:51pm Reply

  • Maria: Hello to all,

    I am looking for a new perfume with very little projection. I really like complex perfumes, a bit retro, and I don’t really have a preference in terms of perfume families. My only exceptions are that I don’t like perfumes that are too sweet, that smell too much like pastries, and that I can’t stand perfumes with too much projection or too much persistence. For several years I have been wearing Après l’ondée by Guerlain, Eau de Guerlain and Eau Première by Chanel. I would like to expand and include other discreet perfumes like the three above, but very different in terms of composition. Thank you so much!!! October 28, 2022 at 10:03am Reply

    • Sebastian: A good bet is everything citrusy, as these notes vanish quickly. So mainly summer scents in that category. Off the top of my head some perfumes I know with little to moderate persistence and projection:

      Eau de Courreges
      Cologne du Maghreb
      Zara Emotions Vetiver Pamplemousse
      Vetiver (Hiram Green)
      Cuir de Russie (Le Jardin Retrouve)
      Bois Tabac Virginie (LJR)
      George (Roitfeld)
      Une Dimanche à la Campagne
      Osmanthe Kodoshan
      Tokyo (Gallivant – Gallivants in general)
      Un jardin … (more or less the entire Hermes Jardins series)

      And then extrait versions of many perfumes project much less than their EdP/EdT counterparts. October 28, 2022 at 1:52pm Reply

      • Sebastian: … but are more persistent, of course. (That’s actually something I like very much, long lasting but discreet.) October 28, 2022 at 1:58pm Reply

    • Sebastian: With strong fragrances, you might also try “discreet” methods of application. Sometimes seen in films: Spray in the air before you and walk through the mist. Sometimes works, but sometimes doesn’t: when you apply it thinly on a large area, you might notice the perfume even more, because it evaporates more quickly (more projection, less persistence).

      A good method is spraying on a feather and then swiping the feather over your skin. Tones down the most aggressive stuff nicely. Which would give you an increased number of perfume choices. October 28, 2022 at 3:09pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Why don‘t you look at the Hermessence range, especially scents created by Jean Claude Ellena? There are so many negative remarks exactly because of the low-key projections. October 28, 2022 at 3:40pm Reply

      • Sebastian: Oh yes, that’s a good idea! Ellena created many almost transparent perfumes. You can search by perfumer on, for example.

        Many of them are less expensive than the Hermessence range. October 28, 2022 at 4:06pm Reply

        • Maria: I used to love his Eau de Campagne, for Sisley, but it is completely different today. I’ve just command a decant of Rose & Cuir, from Malle’s line October 28, 2022 at 11:16pm Reply

      • Maria: Yes, I’ve thinking about this line, specially “Cuir d’ange”. Thank you!! October 28, 2022 at 11:15pm Reply

    • Emilie: Hello Maria, we seem to have similar tastes in perfumes 🙂 Après l’ondée is my favourite and i love eau première as well. Two other discreet perfumes i enjoy and wear a lot in the spring /summer are Diorissimo by Dior (the eau de toilette version), which smells like Lily of the valley, and En passant by Frederic Malle, which smells like Lilac. In the fall/winter i can tolerate stronger stuff, but i often prefer EDT to EDP versions of a same perfume, when they exist. Edt are usually less overwhelming and more discreet. October 28, 2022 at 11:47pm Reply

    • Sebastian: Hi Maria, I have something to add: I wrote about Violette Fumée in replay to Anastasia below. That is a lovely scent in an old-fashioned vein that has almost no persistence and projection. October 30, 2022 at 1:51pm Reply

      • Maria: Oh! That sounds quite interesting! October 31, 2022 at 10:11am Reply

  • Maria: Thank you Sebastian! I’ve never tried extraits, but with some quiet perfumes I will maybe like them to stay more ( like Après l’ondée). I’m very curoius about Rotfields’ George and Hiram Green’s Vetiver. And I will give a try to the feather method off course! October 28, 2022 at 3:28pm Reply

  • Caroline: Thankyou pfsh! October 29, 2022 at 3:33am Reply

  • Christopher Johnson: Hi. Can anyone recommend anything like the original Annick Goutal Duel EDT (not the EDP)? The eau de toilette is sadly discontinued and the eau de parfum version does not have the same delicate translucence of the EDT. I have not found anything like it in all of niche perfumery. On my skin, it is a natural, dusky, citrus, Yerba mate, fresh-woody, musky scent- not primarily a leather scent which it is commonly known to be.

    I love it because it evokes the peace of a violet, pink, amber, orange, yellow, blue, green and grey backdrop of fall and summer evening skies encompassing slow-moving cloud formations whom gently concede to circumradiant and deeply affectionate rays of sunlight. They always leave an invitation to follow, encourage you they will return, and politely say “farewell for now”. In other words- my evening walks. October 29, 2022 at 4:52pm Reply

  • Anna: Hi! Thanks for opening the thread!
    I absolutely love Chanel’s Paris-Riviera and orange blossom notes, but since I already own Paris-Deauville, I’m looking to expand my horizons perfume house wise (and for some reason, the first minutes of Paris-Riviera are a bit too animalistic to my taste on my skin), with orange blossom or neroli notes. Any recommendations are most welcome! October 30, 2022 at 9:47am Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Anna: Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli is very fresh and great, Diptyque l’Eau de Neroli is sweeter, Eau des Sens bracing, Jo Malone Orange Blossom is simple but a good soliflore, Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger Neroli Intense is the sweetest of the bunch. Lancôme used to have Eau de l’Orangerie but it may be discontinued. October 31, 2022 at 2:58pm Reply

    • Aurora: *It’s Neroli Blanc Intense October 31, 2022 at 3:01pm Reply

    • a.: another orange blossom scent to consider is serge lutens’ fleurs d’oranger. it is famous for having a cumin note that works for some, doesn’t for others so definitely sample first if possible. i personally barely smell it; i suspect it gives the orange blossom depth and lasting power. November 6, 2022 at 2:20pm Reply

  • Lukas: Hi all. I have discovered that I just don’t like perfumes that smell too clean or it will feel like dressing up. In cold weather I wear Sable by Goutal and in neutral Pour un Homme de Caron but I keep looking for solething fresh/warm weather. There are three warmer weather scents that just by reading about don’t sound squeeky clean. Do you have any experience with them?
    1. Eau du Sud, Goutal
    2. Eau d’Hermes
    3. Jungle Homme by Kenzo November 1, 2022 at 6:41am Reply

    • carole: Lukas, I love Eau de sud. It’s a classic chypre, and it’s gorgeous. I don’t find it too clean-it’s just perfect 🙂 November 3, 2022 at 10:52am Reply

  • Marianne: Oh I loved reading your beautiful, whimsical yet informative descriptions! They evoke an immediate understanding, and I’m sorry that I’ll probably never experience Duel. November 1, 2022 at 8:24am Reply

    • Marianne: Above post meant as a reply to Richard’s. November 1, 2022 at 8:27am Reply

      • Marianne: My goodness why did I type Richard? Apologies, Christopher! November 1, 2022 at 8:52am Reply

  • Marianne: How lovely to read all these interesting posts. At this point in time I realise that there are some perfumes I love and keep returning to again and again: Sisley Eau du Soir for its radiant shimmer of green, citrus-led chypre; Dior’s Diorissimo for its riot of flowers and Dioressence for strength and elegance; Chanel L’Eau, more clean and sparkling than no5, and no.19, although it’s a little too well behaved in its current state in my view. I do explore and would love to discover another that utterly shocks and delights at first spray as this little list has done, but then, I think of Guerlain and must go back and reconnect and rediscover there, too! November 1, 2022 at 8:49am Reply

  • Nikos: I know I’m way too late in this thread but to anyone still listening I would appreciate a good alternative (and that means a cheaper one) to Amouage lyric woman.
    Thank you! November 10, 2022 at 10:37am Reply

    • Silvermoon: Hi Nikos, spicy rose perfumes are plenty around in all price ranges. I wasn’t sure how much cheaper would be your preference. Two roses that I could recommend are La Fille de Berlin and Lumiere Noire pour Femme. They are cheaper than Amouage, but not cheap. There are also roses from L’Occitane and Yves Rocher that are very good.

      Also I am not sure where you are based, but have many online retailers have big savings for Black Friday this week. And I have seen Amouage at 40% off. November 20, 2022 at 7:25am Reply

  • Sabine BENOIT: In case anyone is still active in this “recommend me a perfume” session, I am looking for my next perfect perfume of the moment. Previous and precious favorites are : J’adore de Dior, Quel amour !, Neroli, Ce soir ou Jamais, all from Annick Goutal, Jour d’Hermes (absolu)… I can’t find the next one for my current chapter of life. If anyone has an idea, for a logical continuation of perfume love and discovery, Merci ! November 12, 2022 at 6:48am Reply

  • OnWingsofSaffron: Dear Sabine, I would have suggested Chamade from Guerlain, but I only know the vintage. Why not branch out into niche? As you seem to have a linking for florals, why not discover the perfumes by Giovanni Sammarco? Check him out on his website, and yes he got great reviews by the greats like Luca Turin. I have Ariel, a rather lovely if somewhat sweet Angelica-Tubereuse. If you feel open to something more naughty go to Francesca Bianchi, whose perfumes border on the slutty at times. But there‘s always a time and a place for everything, no? November 17, 2022 at 2:57pm Reply

    • Sabine Benoit: Thank you very much for your recommandations. Francesca Bianchi sounds good to me… for a nice change from my well-behaved everything ! Merci beaucoup. November 17, 2022 at 3:16pm Reply

  • Sabine Benoit: Thank you very much for your recommandations. Francesca Bianchi sounds good to me… for a nice change from my well-behaved everything ! Merci beaucoup. November 17, 2022 at 3:15pm Reply

  • Diana: Gloria thanks so much! Your generous response is so helpful; I want to try Molinard’s Violette & wish for you a beautiful Misia – thanks again, Diana November 22, 2022 at 8:56am Reply

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