Recommend Me a Perfume : October 2023

Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors. Or you can just tell us what perfume you are wearing!

How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!

To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin



  • Scubed: My first comment on this blog! I’d love to find an attainable/affordable version of Diaghilev, and preferably something that’s not sold out! Unfortunately I’m in a part of the world that isn’t conducive for vintage shopping, so my dreams of finding vintage Mitsouko or Coty is unattainable. Thanks in advance! October 23, 2023 at 9:29am Reply

    • Ugo: I don’t know this perfume but on fragrantica I see it’s similar to Mitsouko (which is good even in the current formulation and I’m a fan of vintages) and another similar scent can be Amouage Jubilation 25 (a little bit expensive but less then the Roja). For a similar but spicier effect you can try Femme Rochas. I hope I helped you. October 23, 2023 at 10:02am Reply

      • Scubed: Thanks Ugo, I’ll check out Femme Rochas for sure! October 24, 2023 at 2:39am Reply

    • Deanna: I can’t see that much resemblance to Mitsouko, ( I have a sample of Diaghilev),
      Chypre Siam by Rogue Perfumes might be closer as it’s more masculine,but I agree with previous comment that it’s nearer to Femme.
      Both Mitsouko and Femme are bigger than Diaghilev, and Femme is dirt cheap so seems to be largely ignored! If it cost £750 it might be a big hit! ( the same goes for Cabochard)
      I suspect that Diaghilev himself would have stuck with Mitsouko….. October 23, 2023 at 10:58am Reply

      • Danica Radovanov: I think Mitsouko for sure, Femme is very plum fruit, more like fruity vintage 60s Mitsouko than Diaghilev, which is like an extrait of a more oakmoss driven Mitsouko. October 23, 2023 at 1:46pm Reply

      • Scubed: I have a sample of Diaghilev and of Chypre Siam and the latter is quite different to my nose.

        Cabochard is something I’ll try and chase up on and its a low cost investment so even OK if it doesnt work out! October 24, 2023 at 2:41am Reply

        • Deanna: Just to be clear, Cabochard is not anything like Diaghilev, but it’s an underrated often forgotten chypre masterpiece in my humble opinion!
          Much more tart and lemony than Mitsouko.
          Persolaise has an interesting video on Guerlain reformulations of its classics, you might be interested to hear what he says about Mitsouko, if you haven’t already seen it! October 24, 2023 at 3:12am Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: It’s not exactly the same as a vintage chypre, but I really like Shangri La from Hiram Green. It’s an all natural peach chypre so in the same ballpark as Mitsouko, though more simplistic I would say. Notes are lemon, orange, bergamot, peach, jasmine, rose, orris, cinnamon, warm spices vetiver, oakmoss October 23, 2023 at 4:22pm Reply

      • Scubed: Thanks! I have a sample of Shangri-La somewhere. Let me respray it and see how it compares with Diaghilev! October 24, 2023 at 2:41am Reply

    • Kaisa: Hi Scubed, Diaghilev is one of my favourite perfumes but I’ll never own a bottle because… well, you know. Personally I feel it is an homage to Mitsouko but also Femme – whilst not exactly the same as either, if you love it you’re almost sure to love Femme and Mitsouko. Are you able to try the current version of Mitsouko EdP? I have both vintage and a fairly recent one (not the very latest) and whilst vintage is fabulous I think the new Mitsouko is also very good and worth having. As for Femme, I’d suggest to try both the original (if you can) and the new. The new one has cumin. Mine is vintage parfum de toilette but I _think_ I also tried a more recent one with added cumin and liked it… Finally, Jubilation 25 is great (though not exactly affordable) but it does have very prominent cumin, in case that is not a note you enjoy. HTH October 24, 2023 at 6:24am Reply

      • Kaisa: I forgot to mention Chypre-Siam, it is also a favourite of mine in that general genre! I see it’s already mentioned above 🙂 October 24, 2023 at 6:26am Reply

  • Ugo: I would like to know if someone knows some not discontinued fragrance similar to Bellodgia or Poivre by Caron. Something with a spicy dominant clove/carnation with vintage style. I know it’s rare. L’Air du Temps in the current version has loose his spicyness. Spellbound by Estée Lauder is too fruity, I don’t like Cinnabar and I already have Youth-Dew. Thank you very much October 23, 2023 at 10:12am Reply

    • Patty Kowall: Fiore di Bellagio by Shelley Waddington is to me an exact duplicate of Bellogia
      People have stopped me and said “ Oh you have on Bellogia ! October 23, 2023 at 4:04pm Reply

      • Nina Zolotow: I just thought of a couple of other carnations you could try (not that they’re like Bellodgia or Poivre). Garofano is carnation in Italian and some Italian lines still have carnation perfumes. Santa Maria Novella Garofano is a very spicy cologne type of fragrance so it’s on the sheer side. I wear it in the summer. Garofano by Lorenzo Villoresi is richer and more complex than the SMN and some people love it but there is some note in there that doesn’t smell good to me. Finally, there is Etro Dianthus, which is also quite spicy and includes carnation absolute and pepper, though again I don’t love it for some reason (probably the cedar in the base). October 24, 2023 at 5:08pm Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: Sadly there is really nothing that close to Bellodgia or Poivre out there these days, mostly due to restrictions on the use of clove in perfume and also fashion I believe. But I myself love carnation perfumes. I would say that you should check out two carnation perfumes from Oriza L Legrand: the Royal Oeillet, which they say is powder and clove, and the Oeillet Louis XV, which they say is a woody and peppery carnation. (The carnation soap from this company is absolutely wonderful by the way.)

      Another possibility is to try a selection of carnation perfumes from DSH perfumes. The perfumer, Dawn Hurwitz, loves carnation and doesn’t worry about the European restrictions on ingredients. There is actually a carnation sample pack that includes: Fleuriste, Oeillets Rouges, Souvenir de Malmaison, l’Opera des Rouges et des Roses, and Queen.

      My favorite is Fleuriste, which is a green carnation. Oeillet Rouges is quite spicy. Souvenir de Malmaison is a woody carnation. And Queen smells somewhat similiar to Bellodgia to me (although I have a good stock of vintage Bellodgia that I’m sticking with.)

      Best of luck with this mission! October 23, 2023 at 4:17pm Reply

      • FleuryCat: I also searched for a long time for something reminiscent of Bellodgia, so thank you, Nina, for recommending DSH. I also recommend the Oriza L Legrand scented soaps, they are wonderful, and will really scent your clothes and/or linens if you tuck a bar in with them.
        Penhaligon’s Lily and Spice and L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Oeillet Sauvage, are not Bellodgia, but both have spicy carnation and clove elements. Alas, I think they are also discontinued. You might like Prada Infusion d’Oeillet, which should be available online, though it doesn’t have the complex floral bouquet.
        Best wishes! I look forward to following this thread! October 23, 2023 at 7:18pm Reply

        • Nina Zolotow: I have wanted to try Lily and Spice so badly but that and the Oeillet Sauvage (which I have tried) have both indeed been discontinued.

          I also thought of suggesting the Prada Infusion d’Oeillet because it is actually available! And I think it is quite nice. But while it is a carnation fragrance, it’s softer and less spicy than the other ones mentioned. Personally I much prefer the discontinued Prada No. 2 Oeillet, which is spicier than the new version, and though it is discontinued it is still available on eBay. October 24, 2023 at 3:57pm Reply

    • Sylvia: L’œillet by Angelos Créations Olfactives is a very nice carnation fragrance. It has a vintage feel. I can also recommend DSH perfumes. Dawn has some great carnations. October 28, 2023 at 6:26am Reply

  • Trudy: Today I’m wearing Diptique Fleur de Peau. I discovered it while buying a candle and the SA was kind enough to give me several little samples so I could, in her words, get to know it. I like it a lot. I am curious what others think of it and in what fragrance category it would fall. It feels soft and clean but something much more too. Also I’d like to know what other perfume lovers think of the current version of By Killian Love Don’t Be Shy. I had a bottle years ago when it was quite new. I thought I’d revisit but it seems different now. Not as sweet maybe? Maybe I like that it isn’t as sweet. Not sure yet. Again I’m far from being an expert on all the categories of scents so wondering if this one is considered floral or gourmand or something else. BTW I love the Recommend Me a Perfume posts as well as other posts. I enjoy reading all the comments and suggestions. Thank you Victoria for continuing to facilitate this space. It feels like such a safe place of art, beauty and education. October 23, 2023 at 12:11pm Reply

    • connie loynd hill: Don’t be Shy is tough to compare. I think it is unique in a “common” sort of way. I wear it and sometimes really like it! Usually the day after on my clothes:). Not sure what would be similar? October 23, 2023 at 4:08pm Reply

      • Trudy: Thank you for your response. Yes I’m not sure that I will repurchase. There are so many beautiful choices and maybe when I wore it in the past that was just it’s time and that time has past. I also love when a fragrance lingers on my cloths. October 25, 2023 at 9:30am Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Trudy, I like FdP very much too, I think it would fall in the category of floral woody musk. I did hear that Love don’t be shy had been reformulated so you might well be right, people were alerted when the color of the perfume was changed by the manufacturer to an orange shade IIRC, many complained it wasn’t as potent but it’s lucky if you prefer the current formulation, less sweet sounds good to me too. October 24, 2023 at 2:03pm Reply

      • Trudy: Aurora thank yo so much for your thoughtful post and for the great information. The notes floral woody musk sound spot on. FdP is really growing on me and I am impressed with it’s longevity. It is just beautiful. I think Love Don’t Be Shy isn’t quite suited to me so Ill be passing on that one! October 25, 2023 at 9:38am Reply

    • carole macleod: Trudy, I was given a 10 ml EDT of FdP and I was surprised by how much I love it, too 🙂 I thought it was because I wore it on several occasions where I was meeting friend, and so was happy and associated the happiness with the scent. I just love it for so many occasions-it’s versatile and beautiful. I am not sure which category I’d put it in-probably a fresh floral? I’m glad you like it, too . October 25, 2023 at 2:41pm Reply

  • Ruth: My peace inducing, heart soothing favorite fall and winter fragrance is Bottega Veneta, which was discontinued last year apparently. Of course it’s still out there on Ebay and elsewhere but at criminal prices. As I’m not really a collector, I would much rather continue to hoard my 1/4 bottle, and spend the money on something that is similar in warmth and elegance, and available. I would be so grateful for any suggestions from the perfume lovers here. October 23, 2023 at 1:18pm Reply

    • Laura: Well if you do not feel like splurging on Cuir Amethyst from the Armani Private line, the original fragrance of the leather & apricot/osmanthus combo is Serge Lutens Daim Blond. You may also try Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford. October 23, 2023 at 7:20pm Reply

    • Sebastian: And perhaps “Mr Sloane” by Keiko Mecheri. There is fruity-sweet plum, an osmanthus-oud combination, and a resinous base, with a leathery tinge. It’s quite different from BV, but I believe it might be appealing nonetheless. October 26, 2023 at 3:15pm Reply

    • Alityke: Dear Ruth, I managed to find that Next online in the UK was still retailing BV recently so snagged a bottle. If you’re in a region where Next have an online presence you might want to have a look.
      I agree Lutens Diam Blond is similar, if richer. This is now only available in the SL bell jar & restricted retail, so very expensive.
      On Fragrantica Rogue by Rihanna gets lire of votes as a “smells like” but I cannot personally comment.
      If you enjoy stoned fruit fragrances please do try Rochas Femme. Still a peach chypre & since the 2013 reformulation has less cumin. Or even try Lutens Arabie which is dried fruit & spices. A perfect winter warmer.
      Enjoy your hunt October 27, 2023 at 3:42am Reply

    • Johaboha: I find that musc noir by narciso Rodriguez shares some similarities, notably in the plum and suede accord. Musc noire is a little more casual, and of course very musky, but still elegant and very versatile and doesn’t break the bank October 27, 2023 at 7:17am Reply

  • Danica Radovanov: Frederic Malle Noir Epices. Aroma M Geisha Noire. Look for carnation note esp carnation with pepper. October 23, 2023 at 1:50pm Reply

  • Maria Perry: Dearest Victoria,

    It was lovely meeting you today at your book event! It really resonated with me what you said about getting to know our family history – I too agree that we cannot know where we are going if we do not know where we came from. Alas I forgot to ask you (and I was very curious to know) – what was your scent of the day today?

    I wish you all the best,

    Rosário October 23, 2023 at 5:12pm Reply

  • Ewan: Woody , and I would say Autumnal , is Bois Belize Intense by Nicolai. Slivers of spicy cloves slip through the heavier tones. It lends itself to the idea of Christmas approaching but first the garden be prepared for winter.

    Reading: The Pebbles on the Beach by Clarence Ellis October 24, 2023 at 4:58am Reply

  • Cobra Kai: I’m looking for a female sent that feels like a sun globe at the center of the chest radiating out – interpret that as you will.. thanks! October 26, 2023 at 10:04am Reply

    • Sebastian: With that sentiment I associate mainly vintage perfumes. First and foremost Bal à Versailles (the PdT version), it makes me think of a salon glittering with myriads of candles, Berlioz’ Un bal from the Symphonie fantastique, and the elusive lady glowing from within. October 26, 2023 at 2:55pm Reply

      • Johaboha: I find that musc noir by narciso Rodriguez shares some similarities, notably the plum and suede accord. Musc noire is a little more casual, and of course very musky, but still elegant and very versatile and doesn’t break the bank. October 27, 2023 at 7:16am Reply

        • Johaboha: Sorry, meant as a comment to Ruth! October 27, 2023 at 7:18am Reply

    • Neva: Hi,the fist perfume that comes to my mind when you mention the sun is Jour d’Hermes. It is yellow and bright but strong. Grapefruit notes with white flowers and a musky base.
      Kelly Caleche invokes the same feelin for me but this one has a soft leather note. October 27, 2023 at 5:17am Reply

    • Sara: For some reason this makes me think of Jubilation 25 (the one for women). It’s not a bursting kind of radiance, but more of a warm, comforting glow. October 30, 2023 at 10:33am Reply

    • FleuryCat: Epidor by Lubin,
      Delicate and floral with a sense of honeyed flowers, yet not overtly sweet or cloying. Like the scent in the air when the sun warms the garden. An absolutely golden, gently humming, shimmering scent. The simple but beautiful bottle accurately reflects the scent. I discovered Epidor during the early days of lock down when I wanted something not overwhelming, yet warm and light on the skin.

      Amouage Jubilation 25 makes sense as well! A more dramatic and intense expression of warmth and joy. I love them both. November 1, 2023 at 4:56am Reply

    • Priscilla Scofield: I have been wearing Mediterraneo by the Carthusian perfume company in Capri. It smells like a mixture of sunshine, sparkling green tea, lemon leaves and herbs. December 2, 2023 at 5:21pm Reply

  • Clydeian: Hello perfume lovers! I’m looking for a soothing, calm fragrance with some presence, you know, the kind that feels like your own skin but also something that you get a whiff of once in a while and feel “oh, i smell delicious”. I think amber- with its presence and some floral … any ideas? My wish could be completely my imagination, but thought i’d ask your smell-refined advice, which is always rich and helpful. thank you!!! October 31, 2023 at 3:28pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Clydeian: Your request makes me think of Hermes Merveilles series. Try both Elixir des Merveilles and Ambre des Merveilles. The former is more orangey, the latter sweeter. Also, l’Artisan Parfumeur has two Ambers, l’Eau d’Ambre and Extrême, one sheerer and the other richer. Last, an Amber I haven’t tried which bas a very good réputation, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Precieux. Oh a budget option too, Fragonard Grain de Soleil, deliciously resinous. November 1, 2023 at 12:14pm Reply

      • Amy B: I love Elixer des Merveilles and agree it fits the bill! November 9, 2023 at 5:40pm Reply

  • FleuryCat: I agree with you. The Prada
    Infusion d’Oeillet doesn’t really compare. The pickings are slim. I didn’t fully realize the role that restrictions have played in the loss of this note. I also agree it can seem old fashioned, like lilacs and violets, indeed it reminds me of my grandmother. Still, fragrance trends ebb and flow. I was so fortunate to find Lily and Spice a number of years ago, but even it doesn’t compare to Caron’s Bellodgia before it was reformulated. Maybe I will try to find the Prada Oeillet no. 2! In my memory there was something slightly more complex about Bellodgia that made it different from the typical powdery-floral representations of carnation and clove. Soft, but sparkling? Orange blossom? November 1, 2023 at 4:35am Reply

    • FleuryCat: This was meant for Nina Z. in an earlier thread about carnation and clove and spice notes. November 1, 2023 at 4:41am Reply

What do you think?

From the Archives

Latest Comments

  • Priscilla Scofield in Recommend Me a Perfume : October 2023: I have been wearing Mediterraneo by the Carthusian perfume company in Capri. It smells like a mixture of sunshine, sparkling green tea, lemon leaves and herbs. December 2, 2023 at 5:21pm

  • Aurora in Recommend Me a Perfume : November 2023: Hello: there is an orange blossom/leather I like very much although it is not talked about much, it’s Arquiste Infanta en flor, perhaps you might like to tryb, it is… December 2, 2023 at 12:19pm

  • A in Recommend Me a Perfume : November 2023: Could anyone recommend an orange blossom (more white floral than green) scent for the wintertime? I find myself gravitating to Neroli Oranger by Matiere Premiere, which is so warm and… December 2, 2023 at 5:54am

  • Notturno7 in Recommend Me a Perfume : November 2023: Hi Amy, you might like Private Collection by Estée Lauder. I enjoy it and it’s a lovely chypre. Victoria gave it a 5 star review. I found a bottle of… November 30, 2023 at 6:30am

Latest Tweets

Design by cre8d
© Copyright 2005-2023 Bois de Jasmin. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy