Spring is not spring for me unless it has hyacinths. I buy the forced bulbs and leave them around the apartment to wait for the moment when the flowers open up and fill the air with their perfume. The scent of hyacinth is not as delicate as that of many other spring blossoms; it’s rather heady and sweet, with an earthy note. It can be overwhelming, but the contrast is the reason why the fragrance of hyacinths appeals to me—and to other perfumers. Its complexity is an endless source of inspiration.
Hyacinth, like lily of the valley, lilac and gardenia, can’t be processed for essence, so perfumers have to create their own interpretation. Some emphasize the green, succulent facets of hyacinth, like Jean-Paul Guerlain in the legendary Chamade. Guerlain’s hyacinths are framed by the freshness of coriander and violet and the plushness of patchouli. The delicate sweetness of vanilla, an important note in all classics by the house, offsets the earthy darkness of hyacinth without obscuring it completely. The effect of Chamade is airy, vibrant, and yet enveloping and warm.
The green accent of hyacinth is often used in both masculine and feminine fragrances, even if the hyacinth itself plays a secondary role. Its verdant, crisp note brightens up the unripe mango in Hermès’s Un Jardin sur le Nil, adds depth to the fig accord in Marc Jacobs for Men, and softens the sharpness of leather and galbanum in Chanel No 19. In all cases, hyacinth blends smoothly into the composition, buttressing the elements with an aroma that recalls crushed fresh leaves.
Chanel Cristalle has been among my favorites for years, and every time I put it on, I marvel at the skillful way in which the mosaic of its notes fits together. It explores the floral sweetness of hyacinth, but depending on the concentration, the effect varies. The Eau de Toilette version is greener, while the Eau de Parfum is languid and suave, with the icy hyacinth joined by jasmine, ylang-ylang and peach. The Eau de Toilette, with its explosion of lemon, bergamot and dewy petals, is like a citrus cologne and I treat it as such, reaching for it on warm days or whenever I need a boost. The Eau de Parfum, on the other hand, has a more substantial presence; it’s a satin dress to the Eau de Toilette’s silk camisole.
If I crave an even more opulent hyacinth, then I look no further than Annick Goutal’s Grand Amour, a fragrance that makes the petals of this spring flower seem velvety and warm. Wrapped in amber and vanilla, the sweetness of hyacinth is boosted by roses and jasmine. In an unexpected twist that makes Grand Amour such a memorable fragrance, a note of myrrh resurfaces under the floral layers. Its somber darkness provides an intriguing counterpoint to the brightness of the composition, suggesting that love always retains a touch of mystery.
We will talk more about spring flowers like lily of the valley, lilac and hyacinth in my new trio of perfume classes this semester, and if you have your favorite fragrances with these notes, please mention them in the comments.
Photography by Bois de Jasmin
19 Comments
Alityke: I second Chanel Cristalle EdT as being a cool & stunningly beautiful fragrant boost. The EdP is too sweet & tropical for me.
I hope that when or if the EdT is rereleased I so hope it keeps this icy freshness April 8, 2024 at 9:32am
Victoria: One of my favorites anytime of year. April 8, 2024 at 2:04pm
Aire: The new edt is already released. It is a fresh floral. Not a chypre and not icy, unfortunately. April 8, 2024 at 11:45am
Victoria: I like it, but yes, it’s not mossy at all. April 8, 2024 at 2:04pm
Mark B!: Dang, the Marc Jacobs scent is like $350 dollars on the auction sites. We are a fig loving family. April 8, 2024 at 1:45pm
Victoria: Actually, it’s a close sibling of Diptyque Philosykos. So, if you like it, you can just try Philosykos EDT. April 8, 2024 at 2:03pm
Mark B!: OH gosh, thanks for the information. We have both EDT and EDP of the Philosykos, whew! April 8, 2024 at 2:22pm
Nancy Chan: Still waiting for the Cristalle edt.😬 April 8, 2024 at 2:06pm
Victoria: It’s already available: https://www.chanel.com/be-nl/parfums/p/115690/cristalle-eau-de-toilette-verstuiver/ April 8, 2024 at 2:09pm
Aurora: Hyacinths have indeed a heady fragrance, it’s present in Anaïs Anaïs which I love to wear in spring. April 8, 2024 at 2:26pm
Muzo: And the wonderfull perfume of Rifat Ozbek “Ozbek”. April 8, 2024 at 3:36pm
Eric Harris: Hyacinth is a favorite note of mine, and one of my favorite flowers to smell! Lilas Exquis from Jacques Fath is my favorite these days, a swirling purple silk fantasy, maybe out of the Tale of Genji. I also love Tauer ‘s rather Brutalist Hyacinth and a Mechanic. I have vintage EdTs of both Cristalle and No. 19 but haven’t picked up on the hyacinth in their blends. I will have to report back! April 8, 2024 at 8:54pm
Sapphire: My favorite is Serge Lutens Bas de Soie with hyacinth and iris. Smells like a cool Hitchcock blonde. April 8, 2024 at 9:01pm
Alessandra: I am so fond of Cristalle. It is one of my first olfactory memories together with Coco and Samsara (which my mum wore). Indeed, my perfumista grandmother gifted me a little bottle of Cristalle EDT when I was 8 and I still have it and cherish it! I just tried on the EDP. First off: I am so glad it is now in its well-deserved Mondrian bottle. Second: I ADORE it. I think I will buy it, instead of the new EDT. Long live Cristalle. April 9, 2024 at 10:24am
Dorothy: I love it too. I still have EDT and EDP from about 25 years ago. My memories of older fragrances means I feel something wrong in many reformulations. Like you I received a favourite as a child; mine was Chant d’Aromes (which I persist in thinking the very best Guerlain!) The remakes from the 90s were a disappointment! April 9, 2024 at 3:46pm
Alessandra: Ooooh I love Chant d’Aromes!!! I feel you about some reformulations. In my case, fortunately, Samsara, Coco and Cristalle are going strong. Those were my main family-induced childhood memories, I feel very fortunate that they are still lovely!! Cristalle’s EDP is indeed sweeter, in its development, but splendid nonetheless. I have to try the EDT but by the sound of it I suspect I will keep cherishing my old bottle, despite it not being where I live now! April 10, 2024 at 3:48am
Neva: I love hyacinths and like you, buy them always in springtime to perfume my apartment. I was always more a fan of Chanel Cristalle than of No 19 and I suppose part of the reason is the green hyacinth smell. Today my favourite hyacinth perfume is Heeley’s L’Amandiere although it has changed during time and now they sell a dilluted version. It used to be a concentrate. April 10, 2024 at 3:39am
rickyrebarco: Chanel No. 19, original Cristalle and Heeley’s Amandiere are my fave hyacinth fragrances. It’s also prominent in the new Chanel Comete, which is really beautiful, in my opinion. April 10, 2024 at 2:46pm
SoSuSam: Ah, Cristalle EDT, a life-long love of mine. I used to dislike the EDP (too fruity) but if they ever released it again, I would get it in a flash just to enjoy the contrast between the 2 formulations. April 12, 2024 at 11:05am