To inspire those of you who will be taking my Osmanthus classes.
Once the weather turns cool in Tokyo, a sweet perfume fills its streets. It escapes from the parks and enclosed gardens and for a few weeks it becomes a familiar presence in a city better known for its skyscrapers, electronics and cuisine than for its flowers. The tiny blossoms that give Tokyo its aroma are easy to miss, but the perfume is so vivid that osmanthus is sometimes called “a ten mile fragrance” tree. In Japanese, it’s known as kinmokusei, and in English it may be referred to as a “fragrant” or “Chinese” olive, hinting at the plant’s origins, but by any name, the aroma of ripe apricots, jasmine petals and leather is irresistible.
Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena was likewise enchanted by osmanthus, and he chose to pair it with a tea note in his fragrance for Hermès, Osmanthe Yunnan. Although Ellena was inspired by a visit to the Forbidden City in Beijing, his creation captures my memories of Tokyo in autumn. Every element in the perfume is delicately rendered, from the fruity notes that recall the softness of peach skin to the transparent white blossoms soaked in tea. The marriage of tea and osmanthus is a classical one, because both ingredients play up each other’s facets of fruits, woods, sweetness and bitterness. Osmanthe Yunnan is a happy perfume, and whenever I put it on, I feel as if I’ve stepped into a pool of sunlight.
Another radiant fragrance is Nuit de Cellophane by Serge Lutens, a perfume that uses osmanthus to turn up the volume of jasmine. These floral notes are complementary, although their characters are very different. Osmanthus is tender and languid, while jasmine is vivacious and dramatic. Yet, they share a fruity touch, and blending them creates a dazzling effect. Nuit de Cellophane amplifies the sweetness of osmanthus and jasmine by layering the floral notes with peach, apricot, and musk.
In Japan osmanthus blossoms are often used in cakes and jams, while in China, they are steamed with rock sugar and pears for a fragrant dessert. The affinity of osmanthus with gourmand accords can also be explored in perfumery, and one of the most interesting examples is La Belle Hélène by MDCI. The premise behind this fragrance is a classical French dessert, Poire Belle-Hélène. It features poached pears served with a chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream, but in the version of MDCI the pear is laced with osmanthus and candied violet. Even after the other blossoms fade, the osmanthus lingers deliciously.
Photography by Bois de Jasmin
What osmanthus perfumes do you enjoy?
15 Comments
Tourmaline: Hi Victoria,
I remember hearing about Osmanthus fragrans on an Australian gardening program years ago and promising myself that I’d try growing the plant in a pot on my balcony one day. Now I have another reason to do so – it would be great to have the petals to use in cooking.
I haven’t commented for ages because I have been very tired from my chemotherapy and I have also been grieving for Iggy, my father’s cat. After Dad went into hospital late in December of 2022, I moved into the house to care for Iggy. As I’ve mentioned here previously, Dad died in March of last year, and I continued living in the house for Iggy, developing a strong bond with him over the course of the year. On 15 December (the day after the second anniversary of my brother’s death), I took him to the vet for what I thought was a kitty cough, but which turned out to be a malignant neck tumour. Sadly, he had to be euthanized. Iggy was the first pet I’d had apart from goldfish, and his loss hit me heavily.
Today, I had my final chemo treatment, so I am celebrating. I had the kind involving a slow injection into my thigh every three weeks for about ten months (following a month of radiation). Consequently, I was spared the bad nausea and total hair loss; I’ve just had occasional mild nausea and I’ve been losing a little more hair than usual whenever I brush. In addition, I’ve had fatigue and very brittle nails.
The good news is that my last MRI was clear. I was due to have my next mammogram and ultrasound yesterday, but it was some distance away and I missed my turn-off and got very lost. I eventually found the radiology clinic but was two hours late and they couldn’t squeeze me in. At least my car got some good exercise, as by the time I arrived home, I had driven 112km, including some 100kph stretches! I’m always being told that my car engine needs more than my regular trips to the local shopping centre.
This evening, I have been hunting on eBay for a vintage bottle of Parfum Sacré
by Caron, as a “finishing chemo” gift for myself. Alas, the vintage bottles that were there at a time when I could not afford them are gone, and I don’t know whether any of the current selection is vintage. I’ll have to do a little research. If anyone has any tips, they would be most welcome!
With kind regards,
Tourmaline April 12, 2024 at 10:00am
Victoria: I’m glad to see you here again and I wish you the speediest recovery. Please take care of yourself. You had such a difficult streak and I can only imagine how hard it was to lose your father. My condolences again. I remember when you first shared it and I kept thinking about you. April 12, 2024 at 11:32am
Tourmaline: Dear Victoria,
Thank you for your good wishes and for your kind words about my father.
My medical oncologist suggested that I might put together a type of memory box about my father that could be added to the displays at the Royal Brisbane Hospital, where he was chief of surgery for 20 years and saw patients for much longer. I could include a couple of photos, one or two of his small surgical instruments and a brief account of his career as a general surgeon. I’ll approach the hospital and gauge their interest.
I forgot to mention that I have another appointment for the mammogram and ultrasound, and this time I won’t miss my turn-off!
With kind regards,
Tourmaline April 13, 2024 at 9:23am
Aurora: Dear Tourmaline,
You have had a lot to deal with in the past two years, losing your brother, your father, and now mourning his pet too. In time you might feel ready to adopt a rescue kitty.
I am so happy for you the taxing treatment is over and that you are cancer-free.
My vintage Parfum Sacré edp comes in a black and gold box and the bottle looks a bit like a rounded clock or a giant peppercorn with a gold cap. April 12, 2024 at 6:22pm
Tourmaline: Dear Aurora,
Thank you for your kind words. It is certainly a relief to be done with the treatment. Full disclosure: Yesterday, I also bought myself a celebratory burnt cheesecake, two new colours of blusher (a pink and a peach in my favourite matte texture) and three new colours of Sally Hansen nail polish!
I do indeed plan to adopt a rescue kitty down the track. First, I must go through all my father’s possessions (the entire house), move some to my unit and put other items (including his thousands of books) into storage until such time as I can sort through them more slowly. When my unit is ready, I will have the joyful task of choosing my new feline companion. Iggy was a so-called “lilac” Burmese (he looked eggshell to Dad and me), but when I visit the rescue facility, I’ll keep an open mind and be guided by the advice of the workers.
Thank you, also, for your helpful information about Parfum Sacré. The good news is that I have just found and purchased a vintage 100ml bottle of the EDT and I am very happy with that. In the meantime, I have the miniature bottle that I bought about a year ago and that I use occasionally.
Thank you again.
With kind regards,
Tourmaline April 13, 2024 at 9:32am
Aurora: Dear Tourmaline:
Thank you very much for your answer. Enjoy your bottle of Parfum Sacré, it is such a rich and plush perfume.
Also, sending best wishes for the two coming tests you have scheduled, with no getting lost this time😀
I still remember the lovely lists you used to post on BdJ and your impressive vintage collection.
Good luck with sorting your father’s belongings, a bittersweet task which sounds a little daunting (all those books) but you seem to be on top of it with a good plan, and lots of healthful, nourishing food now that chemotherapy is over.
Warm wishes,
Aurora April 13, 2024 at 12:59pm
Tourmaline: Dear Aurora,
Thank you; I will most certainly enjoy my bottle of Parfum Sacré!
Thank you, also, for your good wishes in relation to my upcoming tests and my navigation skills! Today, someone reminded me that my mobile phone has a compass. If only I’d remembered that when I was lost, it would have helped me on several of the occasions when I had to stop and check my street directory…
I’m touched that you remember my perfume lists, which I always had so much fun compiling. My best perfumes still take up at least a third of my fridge!
The sorting task ahead of me does indeed feel daunting. You are right in that I need to improve my health as much as possible with nourishing food, which means a lot less comfort food (chocolate, sweet desserts) and more fruit and vegetables.
Thanks again for your good wishes.
All the very best to you.
With kind regards,
Tourmaline April 14, 2024 at 9:06am
Aline: I enjoyed this article. I have all of the perfumes you mentioned, so this makes me a fan of osmanthus. I also like The Different Company Osmanthus. Looking forward to the Lily of the Valley class. That’s another note I love. April 12, 2024 at 1:08pm
Caitlenn: Osmanthus is always near and dear to my heart. Jean Claude Ellena’s Osmanthe Yunnan tops the list of my favorites for fall and winter while Olivier Gillotin’s Tian Di for Frassai often gets the most compliments. Third in compliments is Osmanthe Kodoshan, the brightest and most summer suited of the three by Thibaud Crivelli for Maison Crivelli. Quite greatful to have three such masterful osmanthus compositions to choose from for whichever my mood desires. April 12, 2024 at 2:30pm
Margie Walsh: When we moved to Pasadena,CA, I asked our gardener to remove a small tree near the front door and replace it with one of his choosing. He planted an osmanthus tree. Although it wasn’t much to look at, it was absolutely intoxicating when in bloom. It was a wonderful way to welcome guests to our home. I found myself using the front door more often to exit the house, just to get a whiff of that fragrance. I feel fortunate to have had that experience! April 12, 2024 at 4:36pm
Strange Vagaries: I don’t think I’ve encountered an osmanthus tree in real life but had it often in tea. I’ve sampled Hermés’ Osmanthus Yunnan and TDC’s Osmanthus and finally settled on buying a full bottle of Parfum d’Empire’s Osmanthus Interdite, but I’m still looking for my dream osmanthus soliflore! April 12, 2024 at 5:41pm
Madelyn E: When I think of osmanthus, my memory turns to the fortuitous discovery of Patou 1000. During our lune-de-miel in Nice I happened upon a lovely lady from la Cote’d’Ivoire. She shared she was wearing 1000 by Patou. During our trip, I bought the extrait and edp. It was sensational. Osmanthus notes holds a special place in my heart. April 12, 2024 at 7:03pm
Tanja Deurloo: Hi Victoria,
Great article!
The same overwhelming experience in Japan last year for me, the scent of Osmanthus in the air, incredible!
You can imagine that one of my next Annindriya creations (launching next week!) has a refined though prominent Osmanthus accord…
I was triggered by your ‘Osmanthus class’, but cannot find anything online. Was it in the past or can I still join in?
Warmest,
Tanja April 13, 2024 at 7:26am
Natalie: I have a 15 mL bottle of Osmanthe Yunnan. It is a lovely osmanthus fragrance. I don’t know if it is just me, but I get a light bit of smokiness from the scent when I wear it. I researched Yunnan tea and some of the varietals have a smokiness to them. I don’t know if that’s the reason or if it that is what happens between my body chemistry and the fragrance. April 13, 2024 at 9:39am
Aurora: Thank you so much for a lovely post and many osmanthus recommendations. From my collection, I enjoy the Opium flanker Fleur Imperiale, and Lush 1000 kisses. April 13, 2024 at 1:04pm