The Art of Ukrainian Bead Necklaces

Yesterday, Ukrainians celebrated Vyshyvanka Day, the day of the national embroidered shirt. This traditional garment has so much significance as an embodiment of quintessentially Ukrainian art and sense of beauty that its celebration is a day that many anticipate with pleasure. This week Ukraine’s eastern region of Kharkiv was heavily shelled by Russia, but whenever it was safe, people still came out into the streets wearing vyshyvanka. Certainly, vyshyvanka can be worn anytime and I have many pieces that range from exquisitely embroidered blouses to simple white shirts with subtle decoration.

A popular companion to vyshyvanka is a necklace. Ukrainian traditional jewelry is quite elaborate and there are many types of necklaces made of different materials–stones, coral, amber, ribbons, wood, glass. Some of my favorite traditional necklaces are of the beaded style. Gerdan is a wider, longer necklace that looks like a pendant. Kryza is even larger and it  falls like a collar around the neck (that’s the style you can see in the title photo.) Silyanka is a narrow, choker-style necklace.

Gerdan and silyanka are made of beads that form complex geometric patterns. They come in a dazzling array of colors and designs and below are some of the gerdan and silyanka necklaces from my collection.

They are easy to wear and style and their vivid colors complete a simple outfit. If I wear jeans and a black V-neck sweater, I almost invariably select a gerdan or silyanka to embellish my look.

While I typically buy my necklaces in Ukraine, I have recently ordered a few pieces from a shop on Instagram called Novyy_Lad. Marianna made my necklaces to order, shipped them quickly, and they arrived just in time for me to wear them with a vyshyvanka on May 16th. Marianna speaks English and ships all over the world. You can select the designs you like via her page, and if you want to change colors or patterns, she can accommodate such requests easily. Gerdans cost around 30 dollars, depending on the size and design’s complexity, while silyanka necklaces are 10-15 dollars.

If you order anything from Marianna, I would love to hear what you’ve selected. I try as much as possible to support small businesses and artisans, in Ukraine and beyond, and part of the pleasure I derive from my necklaces is knowing that they were made with love and care.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin, the large ivory kryza is made by a Ukrainian designer Khrystyna Rachytska. The silyanka are from Marianna’s Novyy Lad store.