Discovering The Finest Floral Teas

I used to look down on flavored teas. If tea is of high quality, why add anything else to it, I thought. Then, I reconsidered my prejudices, because it turned out that a well-crafted flavored tea could be a thing of beauty. Additional aromas highlight the complex flavor of Camellia sinesis leaves, revealing different nuances. A hint of osmanthus, for instance, can make certain types of oolongs seem sweeter, while rose softens the smoky edges of black teas. It makes for a different but no less enjoyable experience than drinking a cup of unadorned grand cru blend.

Some of the most interesting combinations are of tea and flowers. Scent science explains why such pairings have become classics– tea leaves and blossoms like rose, osmanthus, gardenia or violet share a number of fragrant compounds in common. When blended, the complementary aromas create affinities that enrich the flavor of tea as well as its fragrance.

Consider jasmine tea. To create Le Palais des Thés Perles de Jasmin, fresh flowers of jasmine sambac are arranged in layers over lightly oxidized tea leaves. The flowers are changed several times, until their aroma imbues the tea. Then the leaves are rolled into small pearls both to conserve the perfume and to enhance the beauty of the tea ritual. Watching the leaves unfurl slowly in the tea cup as they release their heady scent is a special delight.

Another classical floral tea is osmanthus oolong. Osmanthus is also called Chinese olive tree, and its tiny flowers are so richly scented that they preserve their fragrance even when dried. They can be brewed on their own into a tisane, but the most memorable way is to pair them with oolong. To make oolong, tea undergoes a process of oxidation which transforms the aromas from grassy to floral. What is even more fascinating is how many osmanthus-like facets develop as the leaves ferment. One of my floral favorites, Wang Tea’s Osmanthus Oolong, showcases the natural affinity between oolong and the blossoms of a “ten mile fragrance” tree.

Rose and tea is a duo I discovered when a friend recommended adding a few drops of rosewater to my cup of English Breakfast. Without changing the taste of tea dramatically, it lent such a bright, luminous aroma that I was tempted to dab it on my wrists. Again, fragrance chemistry provides an explanation for this fortuitous discovery—black tea contains compounds known as beta-damascones, aroma-molecules with nuances of apples, late summer roses, and red wine. As the name suggests, they were originally discovered in rosa damascena, a varietal used in perfumery. (To experience their dazzling effect in fragrance, try Guerlain Nahèma, a composition that makes an adjective “voluptuous” seem like an understatement. Similarly opulent are Christian Dior Poison and Yves Saint Laurent Paris.)

Fortnum & Mason’s Rose Pouchong is an excellent blend to enjoy both tea and roses. It has a deep color of chestnut honey and a velvety, sweet flavor. To brew a cup is to understand why for the Chinese poets tea drinking was equivalent to the contemplation of beauty.

Extra reading: Rose Tea or how to make your day full of roses

Photography by Bois de Jasmin