When did we develop our insatiable craving for sweet perfumes? I could point to Thierry Mugler’s Angel, the grandmother of all gourmands; launched in 1993, this bonbon of cotton candy, bitter chocolate and patchouli still graces best-seller lists the world over. The success of Angel inspired several generations of perfumes redolent of crème brûlée, caramel and rice pudding, from Chanel Coco Mademoiselle to Kenzo Amour, and the boundary between fragrance and flavor became nebulous.
While Angel set the modern trend, sweet notes are as old as the art of perfumery itself. Many classics have accords that tease with their subtle references to desserts without venturing too far into patisserie. For instance, the combination of peach, roasted almonds and cinnamon in Guerlain Mitsouko, created in 1919, suggests an extravaganza worthy of Escoffier, while the moss and woods add an abstract, distinctly non-edible effect.
Lolita Lempicka Eau de Parfum arrived in the wake of Angel in 1997. It is a perfume for those who want to avoid the jejune prettiness and cloying sweetness of many gourmand fragrances, while offering an indulgence. The heart of Lolita Lempicka is a clever pairing of patchouli (a nod to Angel) and iris. In a brilliant twist, the cool character of iris inflects all layers of the composition, rising like a soft mist over the confection of licorice, Amarena cherries, and praline. Joined by violet and green anise, the iris steers Lolita Lempicka into brighter, fresher territory, while vetiver adds a crunch of salt to the voluptuous drydown of roasted almonds and musk. The effect is striking – sweet and refreshing, yet smoldering and sophisticated – and although Lolita Lempicka is marketed for women, its contrasted composition crosses the gender boundary with ease, making for a seductive masculine perfume.
The perfumer responsible for this marvel is Annick Ménardo, who also made the smell of rubber and smoke in Bulgari Black (no longer available) and Le Labo Patchouli 24 seem alluring. As she plays with the candied accord to make Lolita Lempicka satisfy cravings for sweetness, she takes a page from the “abstract gourmand” vintages to give a more complex, unpredictable character to her creation. The result is a modern classic.
Do you wear Lolita Lempicka? How would you describe it?
8 Comments
April: I wore it happily for several years. Loved the licorice ( and anise) in it and dry down to almonds and musk! Yes for me from my first whiff in a dept store- had to have and reasonably priced. When my last bottle ( and oh, that bottle) was finished I read on several sites that it was “;reformulated” and not up to original. I never even tried. Wondering if this piece is about its current iteration. If yes, I’m h ea ding out to sniff August 16, 2024 at 11:29am
Victoria: I recommend that you try the new version on its own terms and not compare to the original. I wore the original, but now I’m happy with the current version too. It’s less woody-sweet, though. The drydown is more transparent, but overall, it holds up well. August 16, 2024 at 11:36am
Debby: Love it, I had the EDT which was deliciously airy, and I have another flanker, Eau de Minuit which is denser, sweeter and balsamic, I love it for autumn. The bottles are so beautiful as well! I really want to get the EDP, but it’s so confusing online with different names and bottles, it’s not available in any stores near me, sadly. August 16, 2024 at 11:53am
Madaris: I love the original and also the flanker Sweet. And the bottles look wonderful on the dresser. After Sweet, Lolita Lempicka added an ever sweeter gourmand, So Sweet, which is yummy. August 16, 2024 at 1:56pm
Martina: Though I think it’s a bit too overpowering to put on myself, it’s my husband’s favorite to wear to the point you could call it his signature scent. We have it in a dab bottle, a mini from 2015, that’s still half full. Tells you something about its power! A sweet and loud scent for my sweet and loud man <3 August 17, 2024 at 3:46am
emercycrite: This used to be readily available at my local department store but alas I was too young at the time to appreciate the scent (but was absolutely captivated by the bottle), and of course it’s now gone. August 18, 2024 at 3:38am
Notturno7: I love it and I haven’t worn it for a loooooong time. Thanks for the reminder. My bottle is about as full as yours in the photo and it’s the vintage.
I love your reviews and you made me really happy with this one as I’ve always thought it was special! August 19, 2024 at 4:19am
Lee: I agree with the praise for Lolita Lempicka’s original fragrance, it is delicious! I’d also like to add that fewer perfume bottles look prettier on a vanity tray than LL’s cute little apple! September 6, 2024 at 12:48pm