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Every spring, the hills near Aubrac, a village in the department of Lozère in southern France, are draped in a carpet of daffodils. Narcissus poeticus is renowned for its fragrance, and the narcissus of Lozère has such a sweet, rich aroma that it’s one of the few varieties used in perfumery. Its essence is also one of the most expensive, since not only does a kilogram of narcissus absolute require a whole field of flowers, the process of obtaining the aromatic substance from the petals is complex and time consuming.
The result, however, is prized, because distilled narcissus has a fragrance unlike any other blossom. It smells of sun warmed petals, but also of leather, warm spices and earth. It never fails to amaze me how such a delicate spring flower can hide an autumnal aroma and such a range of nuances.
Perfumers have long recognized this paradox of narcissus and have used its essence to convey the contrast and drama between flowers and woods. Vol de Nuit, one of the crown jewels of Guerlain, was created in 1933 in homage to the aviators of the 1920s. Its name is inspired by the eponymous novel by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and its composition relies on the interplay of light and dark. Narcissus crowns the central accord of moss, sandalwood, musk and tonka bean. Its leathery darkness plays up the smoky, earthy edge of Vol de Nuit, while its brightness makes the composition seem airy and transparent.
Because of the high price of its essence, narcissus is often a secondary player in perfume formulae. Rose or jasmine can be suggested with a clever combination of aroma-materials, but narcissus is too unique to be easily replicated. It’s also considered a difficult note to tame because of its bold character. Some perfumers, however, find narcissus fascinating enough to allow it to take center stage.
When perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena embarked on a journey to capture the essence of the delicate narcissus, he found inspiration in the lush landscapes and vibrant blooms of nature. This exploration led to the creation of Hermès Eau de Narcisse Bleu, a fragrance that beautifully encapsulates the serene yet mysterious aura of the flower. In this composition, the narcissus unfolds, revealing its green, crisp facets that evoke the freshness of spring mornings. Ellena enhances its floral elegance with hints of grapefruit and zesty bergamot, adding a lively brightness that dances on the skin. The heart of the fragrance is wrapped in soft, powdery notes, which gracefully intertwine with a base of gentle woods and musks, creating a refined and sophisticated finish that lingers delicately, embodying the timeless elegance of Hermès.
Narcissus can convey many moods, from seductive to bucolic. The latter impression is what I enjoy in Dryad, a fragrance from an artisanal British house, Papillon Perfumery. The perfumer Liz Moores weaves moss, salty vetiver, and green, balsamic notes with narcissus to evoke a walk in the forest. Yet, Dryad’s is not the manicured grove with neatly laid out paths and trimmed trees. It’s a wild, mysterious place where one could get lost, happily. Dryad’s woodland is autumnal, filled with fallen crimson leaves and chestnut shells, but the whisper of narcissus is a reminder of blossoms, sunshine and spring.
What are your favorite spring flower perfumes?
Extra reading: 20 Best Narcissus and Daffodil Perfumes
Photography by Bois de Jasmin
24 Comments
Emily: A few years ago I fell hard for a sample of Prosody London’s Jacinth Jonquil that came gratis with Dusita’s Cavatina, & soon bought a full bottle that I treasure every spring, which arrives late & slow in these ice-coated mountains.
Prosody’s nose is a painter synesthete who focuses on natural perfumes. The narcissus & hyacinth here meld with lush yellow & white flower, for a journey from spring to summer that comes down heavily on the side of seduction. Makes me want to wear my hair down & don a flower crown. Dreamy. March 7, 2025 at 9:23am
Emily: Also! Another Papillon masterpiece, Hera, features narcissus absolute, orris, & orange blossom for the most sophisticated golden glow. Quite pricey but if I were the sort to have a signature perfume this might be it. Every day you wear this one is a bit more special. Air jewelry. March 7, 2025 at 9:33am
Tourmaline: Dear Victoria,
Today, it is two years since my dear father passed away.
At this moment, I am sheltering in the hallway of my unit, with my torch and a stash of water and other items, as Cyclone Alfred bears down on Brisbane. I am hoping for no broken windows, but that might be unrealistic.
It is lovely to sit here and read of sweet narcissus. Vol de Nuit is the favourite fragrance of my friend and BdJ reader, Peter.
Thank you for providing such beauty amid the storms of this world.
With love and best wishes from
Tourmaline March 7, 2025 at 9:31am
Aurora: Dear Tourmaline,
Stay safe, a cyclone is not something I’ve experienced, there were nor’easters when I lived in NYC and in London where I am now, every type of weather is moderate. I hope you’re doing well otherwise. March 7, 2025 at 11:44am
Tourmaline: Dear Aurora,
Thank you for your good wishes.
I am delighted to say that my unit sustained no damage whatsoever, which was an enormous relief because I had been expecting the worst. The weather people said that it was a one in 50 years storm, so I feel very fortunate.
Others were not as lucky, though. For example, there was an old unit block on the Gold Coast that had the roof ripped off. Police arrived promptly to evacuate the residents. Also, many people are still without electricity.
As regards my health, my recent bilateral mammogram and ultrasound were both clear, so I am very happy indeed about that. However, in a few weeks’ time I will have a test for the BRCA gene, and if I have one or more mutations, I’ll probably choose to have a double mastectomy to prevent further cancer.
I hope that all is well in your world.
Thank you again.
With kind regards,
Tourmaline March 8, 2025 at 4:33pm
Aurora: Thank you Tourmaline, so happy the cyclone didn’t affect your neck of the woods, wonderful news that the tests were clear, fingers crossed for the genetic test, will be thinking of you. March 9, 2025 at 7:45am
Tourmaline: Dear Aurora,
Thank you for all your good wishes.
I’ll keep you posted!
With kind regards,
Tourmaline March 11, 2025 at 4:19am
Alityke: Please take great care. Thinking of you in these unusual circumstances March 7, 2025 at 12:10pm
Tourmaline: Dear Alityke,
Thank you so much for thinking of me.
I am still incredulous that I made it through the cyclone unscathed, having expected to have at least a couple of broken windows.
I hope that all is well with you.
With kind regards,
Tourmaline March 8, 2025 at 4:37pm
Alityke: Tourmaline
So pleased you escaped from damage.
DH has had a recent spell in hospital & is going back next week for blood transfusions. Otherwise good news. No blood clots & the disease has got smaller. Completely unexpected as the treatment is aimed at keeping things stable.
Thank you for asking x March 8, 2025 at 5:10pm
Tourmaline: Dear Alityke,
Thank you.
That is such wonderful news that the tumour is smaller. I hope that the transfusion goes well and BOTH of you are feeling better soon!
With kind regards,
Tourmaline March 11, 2025 at 4:17am
Marianne: How lovely to read your comments dear Tourmaline. I’m glad the cyclone didn’t hit hard; I have a number of relatives who live in its path. It’s also good to read of your improvements in health. A difficult journey for you.
So good to imbibe your gentle, kindly descriptions and words. You know so much about scents and explain so well what they evoke for you.
Marianne (from the southernmost State) March 12, 2025 at 1:25am
Tourmaline: Dear Marianne,
Hello down there!
I hope that your relatives have survived the cyclone with minimal damage.
Thank you for your kind words; I feel very humbled to receive them. It is always heartening to hear that someone enjoys my scribblings! Thank you also for your concern about my health. I am fortunate to be doing so well.
All the very best to you!
With kind regards,
Tourmaline March 13, 2025 at 8:06am
Aurora: What a lovely post, so informative. I immediately thought of vintage Je Reviens which although it’s a complex gives me best the impression of narcissus, haunting and dusky. Some of the narcissus in my neighborhood are scented, such a treat. Now I would love to visit Aubrac😀 March 7, 2025 at 11:53am
rickyrebarco: Vintage Je Reviens is divine! March 8, 2025 at 2:56pm
Aurora: Oh you’re a fan too, I think it is often overlooked among the classics. March 9, 2025 at 7:47am
Alityke: I am missing the planters of paperwhites & hyacinths. The bunches of yellow daffodils that I would usually have around the house at this time of year. DH can’t tolerate them now & I’m happy to forego them.
Spring blossom perfumes including narcissus?
Dryad & Hera by Papillon are both up there.
Penhaligon’s Ostara is my exemplar of narcissus front & centre.
More spring hedgerow is my beloved Chanel Beige.
A fabulous cheap thrill that is a subtle spring bouquet is Cerruti 1881. Always pretty & not something I catch whiffs of in the wild March 7, 2025 at 12:26pm
la_ninon: I miss Ostara…. March 7, 2025 at 5:09pm
Kaisa: Lovely article and I too am a fan of narcissus. Vol de Nuit is one of my favourite perfumes but for some reason it really works for me in the depths of winter! I have to wear it more now, as spring is coming. Dryad, Hera and Ostara are wonderful. I just got a sample of Romanza, it’s waiting for a proper wear. But my spring fragrance par excellence is probably Fidji.
p.s. A couple of years ago I tried some fragrances by Annette Neuffer, including Narcissus Poeticus and Narcissus Orientalis. They were quite impressive but rather heavy and dense in style. And eyewateringly priced. March 7, 2025 at 3:11pm
la_ninon: I love the narcissus note in Safari. March 7, 2025 at 5:10pm
SylviaH: Loved reading this post on narcisimus. I never realized it was a big part of Vol de Nuit.
I’m not really into floral fragrances, but a couple of years ago I fell for Le Temps d’une Fête. I love to wear it in spring. Another favourite with spring flowers is Mito voile d’extrait with hyacinth. March 8, 2025 at 2:44am
Hamamelis: Spring flowers are such a symbol of hope! I love them all, snowdrops, crocus, hyacinth and grape hyacinth, tulips and a new discovery is iris reticulata, a dwarf iris that grows from bulbs and has a vibrant purple colour with yellow specks to guide the bumble bees to its pollen and nectar. Most of all I love narcissus poeticus because of its simple flower and beautiful scent….where I live it flowers relatively late in spring, while the earlier narcissus varieties are beginning to bloom. So many scents with narcissus and hyacinth to love…many have been mentioned so I add Grossmith Diamond Jubilee which has a lovely narcissus topnote, and Cuir d’Ange with narccissus in its drydown, and Heure Exquise with its beautiful hyacinth note. March 8, 2025 at 7:17am
rickyrebarco: Fragonard’s Narcisse EDT is a favorite of mine. And it’s affordable, always a plus. March 8, 2025 at 2:58pm
Tara C: My favorite is Annette Neuffer’s Narcissus Poeticus, but Papillon Hera, Masque Milano Romanza and Parfum d’Empire Tabac Tabou and Diptyque Olène are up there too. March 9, 2025 at 10:23pm