I started my year reading Hafez. As I read, I made notes how many times this Persian poet mentioned aromas. My notebook was so brimming with ideas that I jotted down a simple formula for a rose fragrance inspired by his verses. I will share the idea soon.
In the meantime, my Substack newsletter has the following new pieces:
Quentin Akigalawoodovich Bisch
Five Things That Stayed With Me — January
Perfume Class 101: The First Materials to Buy
If Sei Shōnagon Lived in Kharkiv
Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors. Or you can just tell us what perfume you are wearing. If you received recommendations from this thread, please let us know what you sampled.
How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!
To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.
Photography by Bois de Jasmin
44 Comments
Iana CraneWing: I have most recently been wearing Prada’s Les Infusions Oeillet. I love the complexity of silky sandalwood, the warmth of styrax and of course the lingering floral veil of carnations. It has been mitigating the intense cold and snow we have in New England this winter but as much as I enjoy the feeling of being wrapped in my grandmothers lap I am missing something earthier, more vegetal. Can anyone recommend something like this? I do not care for ylang ylang and tuberose so would ask to avoid those. I have tried layering it with Prada Les Infusions Vetiver but the delicate florals recede when I do this.
Thank you so much! February 2, 2026 at 2:12pm
Ksenija: Try Hiram Greens Philtre February 2, 2026 at 2:17pm
Iana CraneWing: Thanks, I will. Luckyscent has a sample size! February 3, 2026 at 2:40pm
Victoria: Perfumer H has a number of soft woods and green vetivers. They’re mostly simple accords, but they layer well. I would take a look at that collection. February 3, 2026 at 10:32am
Iana CraneWing: Thank you Victoria. I do not have access to anything by Perfumer H presently as I live in a very isolated place but after rummaging around this morning I found a sample of Parfums de Nicolai Vetyver and layering that with Shaft of Light does bring it more earthiness in a pleasing way. February 5, 2026 at 1:44pm
Alityke: Clarins Eau Extraordinaire is a green & earthy herbal. Not too pungent & I think it might lend itself to layering. Inexpensive & available wherever there is a Clarins stand or salon February 4, 2026 at 6:50am
Federica: I recently fell for a fragrance called Viburnum by Tonatto, a white floral with virtually no indoles, yet natural-smelling. I’ll describe it for you: some gentle jasmine, lily, and tuberose, a light touch of strawberry and carnation. That’s all. I find myself enjoying a white floral: no funk involved, no downsides. Dreamy and soothing. I would love to know what your favorites are of this kind? February 2, 2026 at 2:43pm
Victoria: I don’t know this perfume, but something about the description made me think of En Passant by Frederic Malle. February 3, 2026 at 10:33am
Iana CraneWing: My favorite white flower scent is Shaft of Light by J Scent. On a strip it is nice if not a bit chilly and predictable but on my skin it blooms and I have the distinct feeling that a window has just opened and I am beckoned outside to spend the rest of the day visiting with flowers. There is a coolness to it, cucumber? and it settles into a gentle watery floral that leaves me feeling deeply serene. Penhaligon’s Artemisia deserves a mention too even though it is not literally floral it feels clean and springlike. February 3, 2026 at 3:23pm
Federica: Thank you, I will hunt them down. As for the one I mentioned, I think it’s worth a try even though it’s from a lesser known brand. February 3, 2026 at 6:56pm
Iana CraneWing: Yes I will, thanks you so much. February 4, 2026 at 9:48pm
Aurora: Hi: Arquiste Flor Y Canto is a favorite lily, tuberose with a Mexican incense base and some vanilla. February 4, 2026 at 3:05pm
Cathy Beshore: I LOVE Prada’s Les Infusions Oeillet. I purchased it a few years ago because I love the smell of carnations. My father was a funeral director, and I always remember the wonderful fragrance of the flower arrangements…especially carnations! It is such a comforting fragrance for me, since my father passed away 10 years ago. I smell flowers and it is such a comfort!❤️ February 2, 2026 at 2:46pm
Victoria: L’Artisan also had a nice carnation perfume in their collection. February 3, 2026 at 10:34am
Mandy: I have also been in a spicy carnation scent bubble lately. My bubble also includes incense and cardamom via Yves Saint Laurent Nu. This is unlike any fragrance I have, and I am already feeling sad about the day I spray the last of my precious little puck. February 2, 2026 at 3:36pm
Victoria: Nu is a gem! February 3, 2026 at 10:34am
mandy: It really is. Trying to convince myself not to buy another over-priced bottle (puck) but my search for a similar fragrance has been daunting. February 8, 2026 at 4:28pm
Veronica Kelly: I’m finishing my wonderful Andy Tauer “Un Rose Chypree” and now it’s unavailable. Oh misery! Any suggestions for something similar? Many thanks. February 2, 2026 at 4:05pm
Victoria: Have you tried Diptyque Eau Capitale? February 3, 2026 at 10:37am
Veronica Kelly: I have not and will check that one out. Thank you for the suggestion! February 3, 2026 at 11:44am
Sandra: Has anyone smelled the new formulation of Chanel Cristalle and compared it to the old version? February 2, 2026 at 4:23pm
Victoria: The newer Cristalle feels softer and less biting in the green citrus opening, with a rounder, more musky drydown. The old version had more snap and bitterness. Still elegant, but the character has shifted. February 3, 2026 at 10:35am
Alessandra: Yes and I agree with Victoria: less green, less sharp, more round, a bit creamy in the drydown of the EDP. Personally, I love the EDP. It is my staple during the month of May in Berlin! I also think it is still unique. February 24, 2026 at 1:47am
Rachel: I have been looking for a body lotion that I used from the shop Perfume Douglass called Poppy I believe it was a white bottle with red and orange flowers on the front. It smelled clean not musky, or sweet it is difficult for me to describe does anyone remember this? I can’t find it anywhere. Thank you! February 3, 2026 at 1:59pm
Eva Mazza: Could you recommend a good narcissus perfume please? I am trying to replace Ostara. Thank you for any suggestions February 4, 2026 at 1:39pm
Aurora: Hi Eva: Fragonard had two years ago a pretty narcissus, Narcisse, it was pretty and as all Fragonard perfumes affordable. L’Artisan Parfumeur has Mont de Narcisse but I never smelled it and Chloe new Narcissus Poeticus might be worth a try? But it’s difficult to replace Ostara, a little heady for me but so distinctive. Perhaps save a search on eBay and wait for an affordable bottle this way? February 5, 2026 at 3:30am
Eva: Thank you, Aurora 🙂 I will look into those! February 5, 2026 at 2:08pm
Caroline: It’s been awhile since I smelled Ostara, but Masque Milano’s Romanza features narcissus prominently! February 5, 2026 at 8:06pm
Eva Mazza: Thank you, I will try Romanza! February 7, 2026 at 7:28pm
Kaisa: You probably won’t find anything just like Ostara, but I second the suggestion to try Romanza. Another excellent one is Narkissos by Angelos Creations Olfactives. Angelos perfumes are worth a try especially if you enjoy vintage styles.
More on the narcissus theme: Papillon Hera, a more abstract floral, very lovely but very pricey.
Annette Neuffer, a natural perfumer, has two: Narcissus Orientalis and Narcissus Poeticus. I recall both of them being quite impressive though rather densely textured, but they are hard to find and very expensive, even the samples. I saw that Jorum Studio has recently released Vernus, which features prominent narcissus, but I haven’t had a chance to try it. Their perfumes are hit-or-miss for me, always interesting but not blind-buy safe. February 6, 2026 at 4:48am
Eva Mazza: I have a bottle of Papillon Hera and a sample of Vernus. I think Annette Neuffer’s perfumes would be difficult to get, but I’ll try Angelo’s Narkissos. Thank you for the suggestions. I love vintage styled perfumes February 7, 2026 at 7:34pm
Sebastian: Where do you live? If in the US, Diane St. Clair makes a marvellous narcissus perfume: Song of Aubrac, but she sells only in the US. Narcissus combined with black currant, orange blossom, and resins has a completely overwhelming effect. A yellow glow. Initially greenish in a prickly way and soapy, until wood and musk soften the fragrance. Radiates such warmth! (In that it is quite the opposite of Ostara, which I remember as airy and sweet.)
If you are in Europe, Hiram Green’s Ultra is also wonderful. In fact, I am sure it contains the same narcissus absolue made by IFF/Givaudan that’s also found in Song of Aubrac. Ultra feels more eventful, but less happy, than Song of Aubrac. It’s slightly tart at the beginning, darker and more resinous towards the end, and with a different warmth from hay tobacco, transitioning into a balsamic dry-down.
Both are absolutely enchanting. I am looking forward to spring. February 10, 2026 at 6:55pm
Eva Mazza: I ordered a bottle of Diane St Claire Song of Aubrac and a sample of Hiram Green Ultra. Can’t wait! Thank you so much for the recommendations February 12, 2026 at 9:58pm
Kaisa: Since people have been discussing carnation, I just tried a few samples and will just thrown my impressions in for whoever might be interested.
Garofano by Lorenzo Villoresi opens very spicy clove-y on me, which I don’t enjoy that much. Floral aspects emerge later but it still maintains the spice.
Royal Oeillet by Oriza L Legrand is sweet and smooth, I don’t get much clove. The opening was a little odd but drydown is quite nice.
Their Oeillet Louis XV has more delicate florals going on, I feel and smells lovely though old-fashioned (as may from this house). I like it and sillage is nice. Neither of those are very strong fragrances.
The last sample I tried was L’Oeillet by Angelos Creations Olfactives, which I found nicely balanced between spicy clove and floral.
All are worth trying, as is of course Philter by Hiram Green (which I found too sweet for me personally). February 6, 2026 at 5:09am
OnWingsofSaffron: I rather like my bottle of „Garofano“ by Santa Maria Novella: a cheerful and shimmering carnation tinged with sunny citrus. However, as so many of the SMN perfumes — think „Iris“, — it has been culled. Strange radical policy. Yet, if I smell the fragrances of high-street fashion, I understand that the SMN perfumes I was refering to, dreamy gauze-veiled scents, are of an entirely different era. February 8, 2026 at 4:24am
Nikka: I’ve been into white flowers recently, my go to go are SL Un Lys, SL A La Nuit, and SL Fleurs d’Oranges. I also like the ‘airy’ DNA from Guerlain L’Art La Matieré, I found it ‘friendly’ for office so I also own Joyeuse Tubereuse, Angelique Noire, and soon will score Neroli Outnoir. But I’m still looking for something else. Something clean, pretty, airy, and preferably friendly for office. Could you pls recommend me one? Ps: Oud and gourmand are big no for me 😉 February 7, 2026 at 1:50am
Aurora: Hi Nikka: Do you like gardenia among white flowers? VC&A Gardenia Pétale is airy enough for the office. Headier but very beautiful lily is PG Louanges Profanes. February 7, 2026 at 3:41am
Alessandra: Interesting how some detect lily as the predominant note in LP! To my nose, neroli and benzoin stand out a lot more, lily is more in the background… February 24, 2026 at 2:03am
Alessandra: Louanges Profanes, which I adore, is definitely not for office, cos its VERY opulent (and beautiful), I daresay even more so than Fleurs d’Oranger! Dear Nikka, I love and own most of the white florals you’re talking about, since I, too, am often in a big white floral phase. If you want something clean, pretty and airy, I’d say SL’s fleurs de citronnier is a great option… Tilia by Marc Antoine Barrois, too (incredibly persistent, this one), Chanel Gardénia, Amouage’s Existence (another very persistent one, and one of the best muguets out there), Laboratorio Olfattivo’s Tiglio Mirabilis, MyLO and Baliflora, Diptyque’s Eau des Sens, the very wonderful Orencie by Chambre 52, Olfactive Studio’s Dancing Light, Floraiku’s Sleeping on the Roof etc etc etc!! Happy explorations, especially given that spring and summer are the best season to explore this genre! 🙂 the ones I mentioned are among my very faves! February 24, 2026 at 1:57am
Cass: Any recommendations for a Violet perfume, preferably in EDP? I love the classic Guerlain Après L’Ondée, but I find the current one too ephemeral. One that I’ve tried not too long ago and quite liked was Violette Noyée by Sultan Pasha Attars, too. February 7, 2026 at 4:24pm
OnWingsofSaffron: Bois de violette by Serge Lutens, perhaps? A quite wonderous fragrance! February 8, 2026 at 4:28am
Aurora: Hi Cass: maybe try Hiram Green Vivacious. I bought it a few months ago and really like it and I see that on Fragrantica some people compare it to Après l’ondée. It got discontinued one or two years ago but I didn’t find it too difficult to find. I also second Bois de Violette, a modern classic. February 9, 2026 at 1:56pm
Sebastian: Another vote for Vivacious.
My favorite violet must be Violette Fumée (Mona di Orio). As the company has ceased to exist, very difficult to find. The violet is combined with smoky lavender and greens, the whole being light and fleeting. So pleasing to wear!
If you like violet with leather, I recommend Hermès’ Violette Volynka. Very elegant. The leather somehow manages not to be too soft, not to be dirty at all, and at the same time to convey a somewhat animalic impression. Quite a feat! February 10, 2026 at 7:14pm
Alessandra: SL’s bois de violette or Violet Shot by Olfactive Studio (the latter is greener but equally wonderful). Last but not least, Régime des Fleurs’ Himitsu Violets and Hermès’ Violette Volynka (although, to me, Hermès’ violet, which I adore, smells very little like violets and very much like a wonderfully unique composition) February 24, 2026 at 2:00am