Akiko Kamei: 2 posts

L’Artisan Mure et Musc and Mure et Musc Extreme : Perfume Reviews

55555

Blackberry_cluster

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I often forget that L’Artisan Mûre et Musc is going to celebrate its 30th anniversary in just two years. Created in 1978 by Jean Laporte, the original L’Artisan Parfumeur founder, it became one of the first fragrances exploring the softness of musk with minimal ornamentation. The cologne version (now discontinued) was created by perfumer Akiko Kamei.

What differentiates Mûre et Musc from earlier perfumes exploring the same theme, such Jovan Musk (1971), is its ingenious fusing of a blackberry note into the musk accord. While the synthetics nitromusks favored in the first half of the century are marked by soapiness and floral warmth, many musks that became popular in the second half possess distinct fruity facets (please see my earlier article on the topic of musks.) …

Continue reading →

Caron Third Man (Le 3eme Homme) : Perfume Review

44444

Troisiemehomme

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Few fragrances tend to fall as much into the masculine domain as fougère. Based on the interplay of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss, the genre takes its name from the first abstract composition, Fougère Royale by Houbigant (1882). The combination of fresh and dry lavender with powdery sweet coumarin and oakmoss results in the juxtaposition of unexpected elements. If a term fougère signals an overplayed variation on the successful Cool Water by Davidoff, Caron Le 3ème Homme (Third Man) would be a pleasant surprise. It takes the concept of fougère and embellishes it with floral and spicy accords, as if orange blossom and jasmine were scattered among the blue of lavender and the darkness of woods.

Created in 1985, Le 3ème Homme derives its name from the 1949 film, The Third Man, starring Orson Welles. Lavender and tart citrus sparkle like champagne on the skin, before their effervescence subsides under the dominance of sweetness that comprises the main accord. …

Continue reading →

From the Archives

Latest Comments

  • John in Recommend Me a Perfume : March 2020: You might try Valentino Uomo… The cacao-leather-lipstick idea made famous by Dior Homme, with an added dose of hazelnut cream and coffee. Technically masculine but v. unisex IMO. April 2, 2020 at 4:24pm

  • John in Recommend Me a Perfume : March 2020: I would second Burning Leaves from CB… Also Caron Yatagan (a masterfully blended mix of bitter, bright, herbal and burning notes that takes some getting used to, but also keeps… April 2, 2020 at 4:14pm

  • Olena in Recommend Me a Perfume : March 2020: Thank you so much again, Sebastian. Yes, I suspected too that this unpopularity may be due to some technical difficulties. I’ve read in one review once that phlox can be… April 2, 2020 at 3:40pm

  • limegreen in Recommend Me a Perfume : March 2020: Second Victoria’s recommendation! Bond no. 9 New Haarlem done by Maurice Roucel This is strong coffee with sweetness, syrupy sweetness (but not quite Turkish coffee) Le Lebo has/had a bath… April 2, 2020 at 12:06pm

Latest Tweets

Design by cre8d
© Copyright 2005-2020 Bois de Jasmin. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy