Jacques Cavallier: 13 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Whenever I hear that there are no creative fragrances in the mainstream market, I want to point to Kingdom (2003), a fascinating fragrance created by perfumer Jacques Cavallier for the enfant terrible of fashion, Alexander McQueen. The blatant sensuality of Kingdom mirrored the controversial and innovative approach to fashion developed by McQueen. Developed as a classical woody oriental composition—its luxurious dark woods cradled in the velvety foil of smoky resins a la Chanel Bois des Îles, Caron Nuit de Noël and Guerlain Samsara, Kingdom hides a raw and aggressive streak. The effect of this juxtaposition is exactly what makes grand French classics compelling—that reminder of human traces, of decay, of things that we try to hide. It is subtle enough to tease the senses without becoming repulsive, and yet, its presence is obvious. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Although rose is often seen as dowdy and old-fashioned, the perfumer Jacques Cavallier set the silky rose petals on the transparent ambery base and rendered the flower crisp and spicy in his fragrance for Stella McCartney. Rose Absolute followed the original, and it was still exciting, being darker, richer and warmer. Then there were a few summer limited editions, Stella Sheer, which offered a lighter take on the rose-amber marriage. Now, Stella in Two takes inspiration from the success of the original creation by offering yet another Stella variation. This time, Stella can be bought in two parts, Peony and Amber. Is it possible to stretch the concept too far? As I have discovered, yes. I was won over by the retro charm of the original, loved the richness of Rose Absolute and enjoyed the freshness of Stella Sheer. Now, I feel ready to explore something new. ….

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Roses love sunshine, which coaxes their buds to unfold in layers of silky petals and to release aromas ranging from lemony tea to musky honey. Rose fragrances likewise follow this dictum, blooming with abandon on warm skin. For this reason, as soon as the temperatures begin to increase and pleasant spring warmth turns into sweltering summer heat, a coterie of rose fragrances begins to dominate my repertoire—the gorgeous opulence of Lancôme Mille et Une Rôse (formerly, 2000 et Une Rôse), the lemony sparkle of Les Parfums de Rosine Un Zest de Rose, the dark seduction of Frédéric Malle Une Rose, and the ambery rose velvet of Stella McCartney. …

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