Yann Vasnier: 16 posts

Apothia L Eau de Parfum : Fragrance Review

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Iris_in_the_snow

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Apothia L Eau de Parfum is the chord of iris fading into the green musky sweetness. Iris is the scent of chill, and its fascinating interplay of rooty and floral facets finds a range of expressions in the perfumery, from the smooth richness woven into the emerald tonality of Chanel No. 19 to the rooty iciness pervading Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist. In contrast to the melancholy aura of many iris based compositions, L Eau de Parfum explores the brightness of iris, enlivening its proud stance with a scintillating spicy ornamentation. As much as I love the aloof elegance of many iris perfumes, the unsentimental and vibrant iris is always a welcome encounter, especially given the fact that such explorations are relatively rare.

For those familiar with Divine L’Homme de Coeur, L Eau de Parfum will be a very interesting discovery, since both of these iris perfumes were created by Yann Vasnier….

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Cerruti 1881 Collection : Perfume review

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Cerruti_1881_collection_1Unlike flowers wrapped in linen feel of the classic Cerruti 1881 introduced ten years earlier, Cerruti 1881 Collection is about dew covered petals and silk. Created by Yann Vasnier and Rodrigo Flores-Roux, the fragrance has a character of transparent layers, folded one over another, creating a composition that has a sensation of satiny softness.

The initial impression is of fine tulle thrown over a green floral bouquet, where crushed green leaves lend a crisp facet to the cool accord accented by hedione. The dewy quality reminiscent of jasmine and lily of the valley mélange attains a delicate plumy sweetness that becomes even more noticeable over time. The middle notes with their lush iris veiled by transparent cool mist segue into the drydown.

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Comme des Garcons Rose Red Series : Perfume Review

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Red_rose

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I love rose. I am drawn to its ravishing beauty that beguiles and fascinates me. My love causes me to seek out rose in as many forms as possible, from rose absolutes and attars to fragrances containing rose notes. Comme des Garçons Rose with its modest ornamentations is what I return to after wearing darker and richer rose fragrances, from Guerlain Nahema to Les Parfums de Rosine Ecume de Rose. It is like a Persian rose sherbet, a refreshing drink, the taste of which lingers pleasantly on the lips.

Rose was created by Yann Vasnier (see an interview) in 2001, in collaboration with Françoise Caron. The initial notes spill into a shower of rose petals, caressing my skin and dazzling me with their opulence. Laced with chili pepper, rose casts an iridescent glow, ranging from rich crimson to pale pink. There I stand in the middle of my grandparent’s rose garden in Poltava, Ukraine, intoxicated by the blossoms releasing their aroma under the hot midday sun. As the composition dries down, lush red petals become layered with crushed raspberries, faintly sweet, warm, and delicate.

Keiko Mecheri Gourmandises : Perfume Review

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Turkish_delight1

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Keiko Mecheri Gourmandises always makes me think of trying rose rahat lokum for the first time in Istanbul. Amid the marketplace, with its diverse noises, rapidly spoken sentences of bargaining partners, endless stream of people, clinking of cups containing dark tea, smells of cumin, fenugreek and grilled kebabs, the sensual sweetness of rose scented delicacies stands out as a vibrant memory. Whether it was really the most amazing thing I have tasted hardly matters.

Gourmandises, created by Yann Vasnier in 2004, is a fragrance that embodies both a concept of travel via scent and of abstract dessert. For all of its sweet notes (praline, bitter almonds, rose jam), it is not a conventionally gourmand fragrance. It does not smell of any particular dessert, but its dark sweetness with a somber, rich rose note hints at the presence of a mouthwatering confection. It opens up on a lush red rose heated by the sun. Rose petals are then immersed into sugar syrup, which is underscored by saffron. Saffron is what conjures a vision of jalebi, a North Indian dessert of golden fritters soaked in saffron syrup—a delectable interplay between crispy exterior with the soft spongy center. Shedding its radiant sweetness, Gourmandises caramelizes into a darker, spicier composition.

The drydown offers a whisper of my memory of rahat lokum, its sinful sweetness folded into the opulence of rose. Creamy richness embellished with sugared rose petals and bitter almonds is very enticing. Suddenly, I envision myself in Poona shopping for a sari—the rolls of brocaded silk and lavishly embroidered georgette are unfolded in quick succession. Next door is a halwai shop, the scents of its sweet offerings reaching the fabric store. Sumptuous color of silk, shimmer of gold embroidery, fragrance of almond fudge and rose syrup soaked milk balls are blurred in a mélange of sensory images that both overwhelm and mesmerize me.

Gourmandises is certainly a sweet fragrance, however what keeps it from becoming cloying is a beautiful medicinal tinge of saffron. A small amount suffices to be embraced by this comforting and sensual composition.

Photo: rose rahat lokum, lannicesnyman.com.

Divine L’Ame Sœur : Perfume Review

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Cassatt18

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Divine L’âme Sœur creates an illusion of opalescent dust falling on dewy petals. The veil of aldehydes is, at first, hazy and opaque, however almost instantly it begins to fade revealing tropical opulence of ylang ylang and rich fruitiness of jasmine. While ylang ylang is a heady note, aldehydes render it ethereal and elegant, smoothing its rough edges and softening its sharp lushness. Indeed, Ernest Beaux was the first perfumer to discover the unique affinity between aliphatic aldehydes and ylang ylang, when he created Chanel No. 5.

L’âme Sœur, which means “Soulmate,” was created by Yann Vasnier for Divine, a fragrance house founded by Yvon Mouchel in Dinard on the northern coast of Brittany. If it is possible to conceive of a perfectly elegant fragrance that nods to the classical tradition without being repetitive, L’âme Sœur is it. A beautiful rose note lends an appealing sweetness to the heart of the composition, complementing the crisp white shimmer of aldehydes.

Once the fragrance dries down, a luminous note of ambergris resurfaces to support the composition. In L’âme Sœur, the peculiar winey and stunningly sensual scent of ambergris is present as a wave of warmth that softens the lush florals. Where rose was tempted to appear as heavy and sweet, it is rendered as sun drenched and delicate. The juxtaposition of sensual warmth with the cool aldehydic opening is what makes L’âme Sœur particularly exciting. The final result is not so much powdery as one would expect from an aldehydic fragrance, as it is reminiscent of cashmere. Cashmere softness that caresses the skin and holds its warmth is the association that the dry down of L’âme Sœur brings to mind.

Mary Cassatt. At the Theater.. 1879-1880. Pastel on paper. The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, Kansas City, Missouri. Abcgallery.com

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